7*7. 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


VACATION  DAYS 


IN 


HAWAII  AND  JAPAN 

BY 

CHARLES  M.  TAYLOR,  JR. 


WITH    OVER   ONE   HUNDRED    ILLUSTRATIONS 


SECOND  EDITION 


PHILADELPHIA 

GEORGE  W.  JACOBS  &  Co. 

103-105  S.  FIFTEENTH  ST. 


COPYRIGHT,  1898,  BY  GEORGE  W.  JACOBS  &  Co. 


JDS 

roj 


PREFACE. 


THIS  journal  is  the  outline  of  a  three  months'  tour 
in  the  Hawaiian  Islands  and  Japan,  supplemented  by 
camera  and  sketch  book,  by  means  of  which  I  have 
attempted  to  give  some  idea  of  the  principal  features 
of  these  countries,  whose  mountains  and  valleys, 
temples  and  images,  castles  and  palaces  excite  our 
admiration  or  wonder  at  every  turn.  In  the  journey 
through  Japan,  I  lead  the  reader  by  no  beaten  tracks, 
but,  after  visiting  the  most  important  cities,  penetrate 
far  into  the  heart  of  the  country,  and  to  districts  hith- 
erto untraveled  by  English-speaking  people,  where  we 
have  a  passing  glimpse  of  the  native  in  his  primitive 
mode  of  living,  unaffected  by  the  progress  of  modern 
civilization,  and  the  opening  of  the  ports  to  the  outside 
world. 

I  am  indebted  to  my  little  red-backed  guide  book 
(Murray's  Handbook  of  Japan]  for  information  on 
many  points  connected  with  this  trip,  also  for  histori- 
cal and  legendary  accounts  of  various  gods,  palaces, 
and  temples. 

7 

1763347 


8  PREFACE. 

To  every  traveler  ill  a  strange  land  is  given  an  indi- 
vidual experience,  which,  joined  to  the  impressions  of 
other  travelers,  helps  to  make  a  true  picture  of  that 
country — and  so  I  add  my  mite  to  the  many  volumes 
already  written,  feeling  that  much  still  remains  unsaid 
regarding  the  customs,  habits,  manners,  temperaments, 
and  traditions  of  these  most  interesting  people. 

PHILADELPHIA,  C.  M.  T.,  JR. 

July  i,  1898. 


CONTENTS. 


OFF  FOR  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 

Southern  scenes — Fellow-passengers — Difference  in  time — 
The  Negro — Louisiana  farms — At  the  stations  —  Negro 
cars  and  waiting  rooms — Pecos  River  Bridge — Stein's 
Pass — Mirage— Bandits'  Blunder — Chochise  Mountain — 
Los  Angeles — Pasadena, 15 

SOME  SIGHTS  IN  NORTHERN  CALIFORNIA. 
San  Francisco — Places  of  interest — Chinatown — A  prize  fight 
— San  Jose — Mt.  Hamilton— The  Lick  Observatory — 
Santa  Cruz — The  "  Big  Trees"  —  Monterey  and  the  Del 
Monte  Hotel — The  Seventeen  mile  Drive — Chinese  fish- 
ermen— On  the  "Australia,"  24 

HONOLULU  AND  THE  NATIVES. 

The  voyage — Haleakala— The  leper  colony — The  captain's 
dinner — Koko  Head— The  harbor  of  Honolulu— My  little 
pistol— A  Hawaiian  breakfast — Poi — Statistics — Waikiki 
Beach — Sharks— Surf  boating— Gathering  sea  moss— 
Shopping  in  Honolulu — A  Japanese  tailor — The  fish 
market — Cricket  grounds— A  "  Hula  Hula  "  dance,  .  .  49 

PLANTATIONS  AND  MOUNTAINS. 
Second-class  cars — Native  smokers — Rice  plantation — Fields 
of   sugar    cane  — Crushing    the    cane — Planting    cane — 


IO  CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

launch  in  a  cocoanut  grove — Pearl  City  and  harbor — 
Pineapple  farm— Chinese  theatres— Strangers  in  Hono- 
lulu— Climate— The  departure  of  the  "Australia" — To 
the  Pali — On  the  summit — Ladies  and  the  Pali— Punch- 
bowl— Photographing  the  natives — Poi  dog — Crab  fish- 
ing,   71 

THE  HOUSE  OF  EVERLASTING  FIRE. 
Off  for  Hilo— Old  Neptune's  frolics —Views  en  voyage — Lanai 
Landing  cargo — Temple  of  Haen — Niulii — Mountain 
waterfalls — Loupahoehoe— Hilo— Unpleasant  bedfellows 
— Drive  to  the  crater — Flume  bridges — Native  jungles — 
Japanese  moving  —  Halfway  house  —  Volcano  hotel — 
The  crater  of  Halemaumau — Kilauea — Mauna  Kea — 
Walk  to  the  crater — Lava  formations — The  House  of 
Everlasting  Fire — Candle  tree — Bird's  nest  fern — Return 
to  Hilo — An  American  circus — Cocoanut  Island — Kanaka 
church — Native  bathers — Back  to  Honolulu,  90 

FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  JAPAN. 

Departure  from  Honolulu — The  steamship  "  China  " — Steer- 
age passengers — Punkahas — A  morning  swim — Birds' 
Island — Collecting  fares — Chinese  gamblers — Letters  of 
introduction — Chopsticks — Yokohama  harbor—  Chinese 
merchants — Japanese  guide — Streets  of  Yokohama — Jap- 
anese theatre — The  shampooer — A  Jinrikisha  ride — Jap- 
anese funeral — Mississippi  Bay — Negishi— Tea  house  of 
Tsukimikan, 113 

JINRIKISHA  RIDES  AND  NOVEL  EXPERIENCES. 
A  Japanese  afternoon  tea — Shoes  in  Japan — Yamashita — At 
Mrs.  Shimasaki's — The  great  tattooer — Seeing  the  "  Ele- 


CONTENTS.  II 

PAGE. 

phant ' '  —  Wooden  tickets  —  Maganechio — The  Demi- 
monde— An  earthquake— Sitting  for  our  pictures — Along 
the  canal, 137 

KAMAKURA  AND  ENOSHIMA. 

Kamakura — The  Icho  tree — Ud-di-jin  and  Sa  di-jin — Temple 
of  Hachiman— China  Ishi  and  Otoko  Ishi — L,otus  Pond — 
Daibutsu — Temple  of  Kwannon — Katase — Food  in  Japan 
Enoshima — At.Kinkiro  Inn — Mountain  cave  — Goddess 
of  L,uck — Diver— Japanese  money — Statistics, 156 

TOKYO  AND  THE  TEMPLES  OF  NIKKO. 

Off  for  Tokyo — City  walls — Imperial  passport — Atago  yama 
— En  route  for  Nikko — Cryptomerias — Reiheishi  Kaido 
— Nikko  —  Temples  and  temples  —  Photographs — The 
Great  Gate  —  ' '  Sleeping  Cat ' '  —  Koshin  —  Wind  and 
thunder  devils — Sacred  stable — Red  Bridge  -  Inari,  God- 
dess of  Rice — Suminohi — Nantai  zan — Daiya  gawa — 
Images  of  Amida — Temple  of  Jokoji — God  of  Children — 
To  Ashio  —  Dainichi-do  —  Snake  Garden  —  Pilgrims  — 
Buddhist  and  Shintoist — Chuzenji — Hannya  and  Hodo 
— The  young  prince — Kegon  no  taki, 171 

IN  THE  HEART  OF  JAPAN. 

A  journey  to  the  interior — Outfit — At  the  station — Country 
people — Omiya — In  a  second-class  car — Silk-growing  dis- 
trict—Annaka —  Asama  yama— Iwafune-san— Miyozi  san 
— Yokogawa — Usui  Pass — Tunnels — Karuizawa — Mak- 
ing a  bed — A  bath — Iwamurata  — Chikuma-gawa — Na 
gano — Zenkoj  i — Inarimura-Shimohigano — Bowing  —  Tan- 
bajegma — Saigawa — Japanese  Artists — A  Feast — Pres- 
ents— Silk-weaving  mill — Night  watchmen, 199 


12  CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

ON  THE  ROAD,  AKAKURA,  NAOETSU,  NIIGATA. 

Akakura — Hot  Springs— Eating  with  chopsticks — A  warm 
bath — Blackened  teeth — Naoetsu — Equalization  of  labor 
— Umbrellas— Katamachi— The  new  railroad— Aomigawa 
Kashiwazaki — An  inn  receipt  —  Souvenirs — Jiurikisha 
rates — "Corner"  in  jinrikishas— Tashiro—  Miyamoto — 
Yoita  —Floods  and  freshets  — Prayers  for  clear  weather — 
Japanese  steamer, 224 

MOUNTAIN  ROADS,  JINRIKISHA  MEN  AND  RAIN. 

On  a  Japanese  steamer — Aground — Niigata — Change  of  route 
— Photographing  the  tea  girls — Kameda — A  universal 
Panacea— Bad  roads  — Jinrikisha  men  on  a  strike — To- 
bacco fields— Yasuda— Tiffin — A  curious  crowd — Ko- 
matsu — Deep  Gully — Agano-gawa — Dangerous  road — 
Kuroiwa  Pass  —Mountain  echo — Overturned  Jinrikisha — 
Tsugawa  —  Pipes  at  night— Japanese  toothbrushes — 
Spectacles — Too  much  rain — Wax  tree — Cedars  and 
cryptomerias  — Torii  Pass— Worse  and  worse— Nozawa — 
Wakamatsu — Tabanematsu  tunnel — Bridge  of  boats — 
Crossing  the  bridge— Bange, 243 

FROM  BANGE  TO  SENDAI. 

Definition  of  a  "  Gentleman  " — School  children — Freshet — 
Crossing  the  Okawa — Carrying  bundles — Wakamatsu — 
Japanese  doorways — More  shrines — Takinozawa  Pass  and 
mountain — Kutsukake — Lake  Inawashiro — More  rain  — 
Yamagata — The  anti -express — Nakayama  Pass — Freshets 
again  —  Motomiy a  —  Curious  people  —  Japanese  versus 
American  customs, 263 


CONTENTS.  13 


FLOOD  AND  FRESHET. 

Sendai— An  "American"  room — A  terrible  night— Bridges 
swept  away — We  abandon  the  northern  trip — Yaita — 
Rivers  still  rising— Impassable  roads— A  long  wet  walk 
— Jinrikishas  at  last  -  Crowded  inns — A  hopeless  prospect 
—Disease  among  the  natives  -Crossing  the  Kinugawa— 
In  the  rapids— Coolie  back — The  Furussata — Ravages  of 
the  storm— Holding  the  train— En  route  for  Nikko,  .  .  280 

TOKYO  AND  A  CIRCULAR  TOUR. 

We  leave  Nikko— Tokyo  by  night— Novel  sights— Fencing 
school— Asakusa  Park — Shiba  temple— Cherry  banks  of 
Koganei — Master  wrestler  —  Carrying  a  god — The  To- 
kaido— Valley  of  the  Sakawa  gawa  -  Gotemba- Fuji- 
yama— Image  of  Kwannon — Nagoya — Shinachu  hotel — 
Many  merchants — Great  earthquake  of  1891— Husking 
rice  boats — Cormorant  fishing — Ibuki-j^ama — Lake  Biwa 
—Vestiges  of  the  storm, 294 

THE  CAPITAL  OF  FORMER  DAYS. 

A  steamer  on  Lake  Biwa— Kyoto— Shops — Queer  combina- 
tions— The  Daibutsu  -  Great  bells  of  Japan  —  Punishing 
children — Burning  the  body — Advertisements  of  medi- 
cines—Servants of  the  gods  —  Supplicating  the  gods— Sell- 
ing children — Tsumiya,  Nakagawa-Tokumon — Kiyomizu 
temple — Junk  trees— Tea  culture  -Kinkakuji— Chion-in 
—The  33,333  images  of  Kwannon — Temple  of  Inari,  .  .315 

KOBE,  OSAKA,  AND  NARA. 

A  Geisha  dance — Losses  by  flood — On  to  Kobe — Nunobiki 
waterfalls — Iwamoto,  the  bamboo  worker — Osaka — Sat- 


14  CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

suma  ware — A  wrestling  match — Cotton  fields — The 
first-class  compartment — Nara— Avenue  cf  lanterns — 
Tame  deer — Temple  of  Kasuga  no  Miya — Daibutsu — 
Nara  ningyo  —  Return  to  Kyoto  —  Sobei-Kinkozan  — 
Young  ladies'  school  — Kyoto  castle — Imperial  palace,  .  335 

LAST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN. 

Miyanoshita — An  odd  shampooer — Fujiya  hotel — Bamboo 
canes  and  American  climate  —Hot  Springs — An  Ameri- 
can breakfast — Dogashima — Yumoto — Yokohama — Fare- 
well to  Japan — On  board  the  "Coptic" — At  sea— The 
i  Both  meridian — Died  at  sea — First  sight  of  land — 
Cricket — A  candy  pull — Honolulu — 800  Coolies — Leav- 
ing Honolulu— Betting  on  the  pilot — San  Francisco- 
Snowstorm— Summit  Station— The  "  Rockies  "—Chicago 
— Philadelphia, 350 


VACATION  DAYS  IN  HAWAII  AND  JAPAN. 


OFF  FOR  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 

"  AND  he  who's  doomed  o'er  waves  to  roam, 

Or  wander  on  a  foreign  strand, 
Will  sigh  whene'r  he  thinks  of  home 
And  better  love  his  native  land." 

—Leggett. 

Southern  scenes  —  Fellow  passengers  —  Difference  in  time  —  The 
Negro — Louisiana  farms — At  the  stations — Negro  cars  and  waiting 
rooms — Pecos  River  Bridge— Stein's  Pass — Mirage  — Bandits'  Blunder 
— Chochise  Mountain — Los  Angeles — Pasadena. 

WE  leave  Philadelphia,  May  25th,  1896,  by  the  Pied- 
mont Air  Line,  en  route  for  Los  Angeles,  via  New 
Orleans.  The  heat  is  intense,  and  we  find  that  there 
are  drawbacks  to  even  the  most  perfect  conditions  of 
railway  travel  in  such  weather. 

The  country  is  flat,  and  there  is  little  to  interest  one 
in  the  typical  Southern  villages  and  small  towns  that 
glide  by  in  rapid  succession.  Here  and  there  wooden 
shanties  peep  out  from  the  shade  of  dense  thickets,  with 
little  pickaninnies  rolling  in  the  doorways,  while  groups 
of  colored  children,  clad  in  blue  homespun,  with  bare 
arms  and  legs,  basking  in  the  sun,  stare  at  us  wonder- 

15 


1 6  VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND   JAPAN. 

ingly  as  we  fly  by.  The  sun  is  so  hot !  Are  they  try- 
ing to  bleach  themselves,  I  query,  into  a  closer  resem- 
blance to  their  white  brothers  and  sisters  ? 

The  road,  on  either  side,  is  bordered  by  miles  upon 
miles  of  reddish  brown  soil,  more  especially  in  Georgia 
and  the  Carolinas.  I  am  told  that  it  is  rich  and  pro- 
ductive, affording  abundant  opportunities  for  cotton, 
tobacco,  and  sugar-cane  planting.  As  time  passes  I 
become  acquainted  with  some  of  my  fellow-passengers. 
One  is  an  Englishman,  returning  from  a  trip  to  "  dear 
old  England,"  another  a  Frenchman,  also  homeward 
bound  after  a  visit  to  his  native  country.  As  I  have 
traveled  in  both  countries,  we  have  many  interesting 
conversations.  On  arriving  at  New  Orleans,  both  cor- 
dially invite  me  to  visit  their  homes,  assuring  me  that 
it  will  give  them  much  pleasure  to  show  me  the  many 
places  of  interest  in  and  around  the  city-  I  decline 
their  hospitality  reluctantly,  as  I  am  hastening  on  to 
the  Pacific  coast.  A  young  lieutenant  in  our  regular 
army,  stationed  in  Arizona,  entertains  us  with  stones 
of  camp  life  and  adventures  with  the  Indians. 

A  welcome  shower  has  just  fallen,  the  air  is  fresh 
and  pure,  and  we  begin  to  feel  like  new  beings.  We 
are  making  good  time  over  a  smooth,  well-ballasted 
road,  with  little  or  no  jolting.  The  ever-attentive 
porter  has  informed  me  that  I  will  find  it  "  red  hot  " 
crossing  Texas  ;  he  is  visibly  relieved  when  I  tell  him 


OFF  FOR  THE  PACIFIC   COAST.  17 

that  a  reduction  of  fifteen  or  twenty  pounds  in  weight 
will  not  leave  me  a  skeleton.  The  usual  venders  of 
newspapers,  magazines,  novels,  and  gumdrops  pass 
through  the  car  at  regular  intervals. 

We  set  back  our  watches  an  hour  at  Atlanta,  Ga.,  an 
hour  more  at  El  Paso,  Texas,  and  still  another  hour 
when  we  reach  California.  These  changes  represent 
Eastern,  Middle,  and  Pacific  time ;  thus  "  slow  old 
Philadelphia,"  in  at  least  one  portion  of  the  globe,  may 
be  said  to  beat  her  usual  record. 

The  scenery  throughout  Louisiana  is  picturesque. 
On  every  side  may  be  seen  enchanting  woodland  and 
water  views,  with  vistas  beyond,  very  tempting  to  an 
artist's  eye.  Many  times  I  am  filled  with  regret  that  I 
may  not  stop  here  with  sketch-book  and  camera,  and 
gather  a  harvest  for  future  use.  The  negro  plays  no 
unimportant  part  in  this  panorama ;  here  he  may  be 
said  to  live  his  natural  life — a  life  of  poverty,  judging 
by  the  cabins  in  sight ;  yet  I  am  told  that  colored  labor 
is  employed  here  at  wages  averaging  at  from  fifteen  to 
eighteen  dollars  a  month,  and  during  the  two  months 
of  cane  cutting  at  from  one  dollar  to  a  dollar  and 
twenty-five  cents  a  day.  They  are,  however,  a  happy 
and  jolly  race,  though  careless  and  improvident,  some 
of  them  growing  to  an  enormous  size,  as  I  perceive  in 
the  towns  and  at  the  stations,  where  they  are  always  in 
evidence,  lounging  in  the  sunshine. 


1 8  VACATION    DAYS    IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

The  soil  in  this  State  produces  grass,  cotton,  and 
grain  equally  well ;  in  many  fields  corn  may  be  seen 
ranging  from  six  to  eight  feet  "  long,"  as  the  Japanese 
would  say.  For  miles  we  are  surrounded  by  these 
cornfields  with  scarcely  a  break ;  at  intervals  a  cotton 
field  appears,  but  corn  predominates.  After  leaving 
Bouef,  we  see  also  the  sugar  cane,  and  learn  that  we 
are  in  one  of  the  richest  belts  in  the  country  for  the 
growth  of  this  product.  The  farms  of  this  section  are 
well  kept  and  prosperous,  but  the  houses  are  poor  and 
neglected.  Little  or  no  live  stock  is  raised,  which  is 
strange,  as  the  sugar  cane  which  is  left  to  waste,  after 
being  cut  and  stripped,  could  be  used  profitably  as  food 
for  cattle. 

As  there  is  only  one  "  through "  westward  bound 
train  from  New  Orleans,  there  is  much  excitement 
when  it  arrives  at  the  various  stations  ;  the  whole  vil- 
lage turns  out  in  its  best  array.  The  cowboy,  in  his 
red  flannel  shirt,  trousers  tucked  in  his  top-boots  of 
raw  hide,  his  sombrero  shifted  to  one  side,  and  pistol 
in  belt,  is  conspicuotisly  picturesque. 

The  train  is  quickly  surrounded  by  eager  inquirers 
for  mail  and  news,  and  many  a  heart  beats  with  unex- 
pected joy  or  sadness  as  it  speeds  on  its  way  again. 

There  is  a  separate  waiting  room  at  these  stations 
with  its  placard  "  For  Negroes  "  ;  cars  also,  especially 
provided  for  negro  travel,  are  attached  to  our  train ; 


OFF  FOR  THE   PACIFIC   COAST.  19 

thus  is  the  line  of  demarcation  between  the  two  races 
never  allowed  to  fade  out. 

As  we  proceed,  the  character  of  the  country  changes 
materially ;  the  soil  is  poorer,  the  crops  noticeably 
less.  Now  a  field  of  cane  or  cotton  is  rarely  seen ; 
only  poor  pasture  land,  which  grows  ever  more  barren 
and  sandy. 

Jacksonville  is  our  last  station  in  the  State  of  Louis- 
iana ;  it  is  two  hundred  and  forty-six  miles  west  of  New 
Orleans.  We  have  covered  this  distance  in  ten  hours. 

Six  miles  east  of  Orange  we  enter  the  State  of 
Texas. 

We  have  just  left  San  Antonio,  Texas,  five  hundred 
and  seventy-one  miles  west  of  New  Orleans.  We  are 
much  entertained  by  observing  the  various  types  of 
Western  life  at  the  stations,  and  the  old-fashioned 
turnouts,  each  with  its  "  bony  broncho "  attached. 
Very  pathetic  is  the  appearance  of  some  of  these 
dwellers  in  the  wilderness ;  no  jingle  of  chains,  no 
gold  or  silver- mounted  harness  is  here,  or  fashionable 
pose,  or  "  latest "  costume. 

On  either  side  of  us  are  large  tracts  covered  with 
natural  grass  and  a  bush  named  mesquite,  which  grows 
from  a  height  of  from  two  to  ten  feet.  This  bush 
affords  both  shade  and  food  for  cattle,  producing  a 
berry  similar  to  the  locust ;  the  cattle  like  it,  and  it  is 
fattening. 


20  VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

I  enjoy  greatly  the  conversation  of  the  owner  of  a 
large  ranch,  who  has  had  mnch  experience  in  gold- 
mining  and  cattle-raising.  He  is  quite  social,  and  his 
tales  of  the  dangers  and  hardships  of  early  Western 
life  would  fill  a  volume.  Although  the  railroad  passes 
through  large  cattle  ranches,  we  are  unlikely  to  see 
any  cattle,  as  the  herds  generally  seek  quarters  as  far 
as  possible  from  signs  of  civilization. 

An  abundance  of  rice  of  excellent  quality  is  raised 
here. 

The  day  is  oppressively  hot ;  great  clouds  of  dust  are 
driven  through  the  car  windows,  and  the  thermometer 
overhead  in  the  shade  registers  100°  at  4.30  p.  M. 

We  are  approaching  Coins tock  Station,  one  thou- 
sand five  hundred  and  fifty-six  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  will  soon  cross  the  famous  Pecos  River 
Bridge,  the  second  bridge  in  the  world  in  height.  It 
spans  the  Pecos  River  in  Texas,  and  is  one  of  the 
finest  illustrations  of  modern  skill. 

The  enormous  structure  rises  to  a  height  of  three 
hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet,  and  measures  two 
thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty-four  feet  from  end 
to  end.  Its  greatest  breadth,  in  the  centre,  is  eight 
hundred  feet.  I  have  taken  several  photographs  of 
this  marvel  of  man's  ingenuity.  The  train  moves  over 
it  very  slowly,  as  there  is  but  a  single  track,  with  a 
footpath  on  either  side. 


OFF   FOR  THE  PACIFIC   COAST.  21 

There  is  little  to  interest  one  in  to-day's  travel ; 
nothing  but  barren  wastes  and  deserts ;  sand — sand — 
sand  everywhere. 

It  is  7.30  P.  M.,  the  sun  is  shining  vigorously,  and 
although  our  altitude  is  two  thousand  one  hundred 
and  six  feet,  the  temperature  in  our  car  is  ninety-eight 
degrees. 

The  passengers  are  social  and  agreeable,  and  time 
passes  pleasantly  in  conversation,  games,  and  occa- 
sional songs. 

Last  night,  at  twenty  minutes  past  one,  we  passed 
over  the  highest  point  on  the  route,  an  elevation  of 
five  thousand  and  eighty-two  feet. 

The  heat  is  still  intense,  registering  one  hundred 
and  four  degrees  in  the  shade.  This,  combined 
with  the  dust  that  drifts  continually  through  the  car, 
gives  us  all  the  appearance  of  actors  in  a  minstrel 
show. 

As  we  approach  the  celebrated  Stein's  Pass  we  have 
an  interesting  experience ;  from  the  car  platform  may 
be  seen  one  of  the  finest  mirages  that  it  is  possible  to 
witness.  It  is  a  picture  of  the  ocean,  with  the  waves 
rolling  and  dashing  on  the  sandy  beach.  We  have 
several  of  these  optical  illusions,  of  various  characters. 
Sometimes  the  water  is  blue,  sometimes  green  or 
yellow,  as  the  rays  of  the  sun  happen  to  strike  it. 
Then,  as  if  by  magic,  we  have  a  heavy  downpour 


22  VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

of  real  water,  a  rare  event  here  in  the  desert,  and 
more  than  acceptable. 

Several  months  ago  an  overland  west-bound  passen- 
ger train  was  "  held  up  "  at  this  pass  by  bandits,  who 
side-tracked  one  of  the  cars,  supposed  to  carry  coin, 
and  allowed  the  others  to  proceed.  The  robbers  blew 
open  the  iron  safe,  only  to  discover  that  they  had 
chosen  the  wrong  car ;  the  treasure  sped  safely  on  to 
its  destination. 

Along  the  mountain-side  can  be  seen  the  old  over- 
land wagon  trail,  used  before  the  great  iron  belt  con- 
nected the  West  with  the  East.  On  the  left  is  Chochise 
Mountain.  Looking  at  its  topmost  peak,  one  may 
easily  discern  the  perfect  profile  of  a  human  face ;  the 
head  appears  to  rest  upon  the  summit,  and  look 
heavenward,  as  though  satisfied  to  gaze  thus  forever. 
Tradition  says  that  the  chief  of  the  Chochise  tribe  is 
buried  there,  and  the  profile  is  an  eternal  and  lofty 
monument  to  the  memory  of  a  noble  warrior. 

I  could  write  indefinitely  of  the  legends  and  strange 
stories  thus  spun  off  by  the  hour,  and  listened  to  by 
the  passengers  with  unwearying  interest.  The  time 
passes  rapidly,  and  almost  before  we  are  aware  of  it 
we  are  in  the  city  of  Los  Angeles. 

With  only  a  passing  glimpse  of  the  chief  city  of 
Southern  California,  I  hasten  away  from  its  beautiful 
gardens,  its  palms  and  cypress  groves,  its  streets  bor- 


OFF   FOR   THE   PACIFIC   COAST.  23 

dered  with  graceful  pepper  and  stately  eucalyptus  trees, 
and,  passing  the  many  vineyards  outside  the  city,  speed 
on  to  Pasadena,  which  is  my  first  stopping- place. 

Even  here,  although  the  wild  and  picturesque  region 
beyond  the  city  limits,  the  charming  drives  and  fra- 
grant orange  groves  tempt  one  to  linger,  we  indulge 
in  a  breathing  spell  of  a  few  days  only,  making  several 
short  trips  in  the  neighborhood,  and  are  again  en  route, 
this  time  for  San  Francisco. 


SOME  SIGHTS  IN  NORTHERN  CALIFORNIA. 

San  Francisco — Places  of  interest — Chinatown — Prize  fight — San 
Jose  —  Mt.  Hamilton—  The  lyick  Observatory — Santa  Cruz — "Big 
Trees" — Monterey  and  the  Del  Monte  Hotel — Seventeen-mile  Drive 
— Chinese  fishermen — On  the  "Australia." 

WE  are  in  San  Francisco.  How  odd  and  interesting 
the  city  appears — built  on  the  hills,  with  the  cable  cars 
running  up  and  down  its  steep  streets  that  remind  one 
of  toboggan  slides ! 

There  are  many  interesting  places  to  visit  in  and 
around  the  city — Sutro's  Garden  ;  Cliff  House,  with  the 
Seal  Rocks  in  full  view  from  its  piazza ;  the  Presidio  ; 
Golden  Gate  Park ;  the  shipyards ;  markets,  where 
only  one  can  realize  the  profusion  and  perfection  of 
California  fruits. 

A  visit  to  Chinatown  is  not  the  least  of  our  curious 
experiences.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  we 
make  our  arrangements  to  see  the  Celestial  shopkeepers 
at  night. 

Chinatown  has  a  population  of  twenty-five  thousand 

souls,  of  whom  six  hundred  are  women,  and  of  these, 

at  least  five  hundred  of  more  than  doubtful   morals. 

We  start  out  one  evening  with  a  good  guide,  who  leads 

24 


SOME   SIGHTS   IN   NORTHERN   CALIFORNIA.  25 

as  first  to  the  most  noted  Joss  House  in  "  'Frisco." 
We  ascend  two  flights  of  stairs,  and  pass  through  a 
high  and  elaborately-carved  doorway,  where  we  are  met 
by  an  important  Chinese  official,  the  sole  medium  of 
communication  with  the  great  god's  eyes  and  ears. 
Proceeding  to  the  main  altar,  we  behold  the  "  god  of 


CALIFORNIA  STREET,  FROM  NOB  HILL. 

all  gods  "  in  his  temple.  He  is  of  homely  appearance, 
painted  red,  and  decked  with  gold  and  silver,  spears, 
bows  and  arrows,  and  surrounded  by  emblems  of  peace 
as  well  as  implements  of  war.  In  his  left  hand  are 
lighted  candles  of  wax,  and  many  kinds  of  incense  fill 


26  VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

the  air  with  spicy  odors.  A  small  gold-plated  wooden 
horse  stands  at  the  god's  right  hand  ;  upon  it  he  is  sup- 
posed to  take  his  daily  rides.  Fresh  tea  is  constantly 
placed  before  the  idol,  that  his  godliness  may  drink 
when  he  is  thirsty.  The  guide  asks  if  we  wish  special 
offerings  made  to  the  god  for  our  safe  journey  and  for 
protection  during  our  absence  from  home.  Upon  our 
signs  of  assent  the  old  priest  performs  a  ceremony  with 
an  air  of  great  satisfaction.  After  much  praying,  with 
intervals  of  silence,  before  the  wooden  god,  we  are  in- 
formed that  a  "  special  record  "  has  been  made,  and  that 
all  things  will  favor  our  undertaking.  The  room  is 
highly  ornamented  with  wood-carvings  and  silken  dra- 
peries, and  other  characteristic  decorations.  Before 
leaving  we  make  a  small  offering  to  the  priest  in  return 
for  his  good  offices  in  our  behalf. 

We  are  conducted  next  to  a  drug  store,  in  which  we 
find  a  collection  of  herbs  supposed  to  cure  all  diseases. 
The  walls  are  lined  with  innumerable  drawers,  each 
bearing  a  label  in  Chinese  script.  They  are  opened  for 
our  edification,  and  a  medley  of  dried  snakes,  toads, 
locusts,  frogs,  roaches,  and  the  like  meets  our  eyes. 
These  inviting  specimens  are  prescribed  for  and  admin- 
istered to  patients  for  their  various  ailments.  We  are 
not  informed  how  many  die  in  consequence. 

Our  next  visit  is  to  a  gambling  den.  Gambling  is 
permitted  in  this  quarter  by  the  authorities.  I  believe 


SOME  SIGHTS   IN   NORTHERN  CALIFORNIA.  2  7 

that  "  fan-tan "  is  the  only  game  prohibited  by  law. 
Miserable-looking  creatures  surround  the  tables  here, 
and  venture  small  amounts  with  an  eagerness  worthy 
of  a  better  cause.  This  is  the  nightly  experience  of 
these  poor  souls,  who  are  ignorant  of  anything  beyond 
a  present  existence. 

Here  is  a  pawnbroker's  shop,  with  many  strange 
things  on  its  walls  and  shelves ;  besides  old  watches 
and  jewelry,  here  are  objects  whose  use  no  human 
being  could  explain.  These  articles  have  been  left 
here  by  poor  wretches  for  the  loan  of  a  few  nickels. 
The  owner  of  the  shop  is  fat  and  jolly  looking ;  who- 
ever loses  in  these  transactions,  it  is  quite  evident  that 
he  is  not  the  sufferer. 

We  now  enter  a  goldsmith's  place,  where  rings, 
breastpins,  cuff-buttons,  and  other  articles  of  jewelry 
are  manufactured.  If  one  wishes  a  piece  made  after  a 
particular  pattern  he  orders  it,  the  price  is  fixed,  and 
the  article  is  delivered  when  finished.  Should  the 
purchaser  grow  weary  of  his  bargain  he  may  return  it 
to  the  manufacturer,  who  will  allow  him  full  value  for 
the  gold,  retaining  only  the  price  of  his  time  and 
labor. 

Crossing  the  street,  we  find  ourselves  in  the  finest 
cafe,  the  Delmonico  of  Chinatown.  We  ascend  to  the 
second  floor,  which  is  the  aristocratic  portion  of  the 
building,  and  enter  a  spacious  apartment,  whose  walls 


28  VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

are  profusely  decorated  with  carved  paneling.  Fancy 
chairs  and  capacious  tables  are  placed  about  the  room. 
We  seat  ourselves  at  one  of  the  tables,  and  are  served 
by  a  Chinese  waiter  with  an  assortment  of  dainty 
dishes,  but  we  do  not  know  what  we  are  eating ;  the 
food  may  be  a  concoction  of  choice  morsels  of  rat,  cat, 
or  dog,  or  a  combination  of  all  three.  Only  the  better 
class  of  Chinamen  use  this  room  ;  others  are  served  on 
the  first  floor. 

I  have  long  wished  to  see  a  genuine  Chinese  opium 
den,  and  now  my  wish  is  gratified ;  we  are  led  by  our 
guide  to  a  dark,  musty  place  containing  many  wooden 
beds,  upon  which  are  stretched  out  or  huddled  together 
the  emaciated  forms  of  the  slaves  of  this  vile  habit. 
For  twenty-five  cents  one  can  obtain  fifteen  cents  worth 
of  opium  and  lodging  in  one  of  these  dens  to  sleep  off 
the  effect  of  the  drug. 

The  opium  habit  is  so  general  in  this  section  that 
merchants,  druggists,  and  other  tradesmen  have  beds 
and  opium  pipes  in  the  corners  of  their  stores  and 
offices.  It  is  not  uncommon,  on  the  occasion  of  a 
friendly  visit,  for  the  host  to  ask  his  guest  to  take  a 
pipe  of  opium  and  remain  over  night.  We  see  an  in- 
stance of  this  kind  in  the  rooms  of  a  Chinaman  and  his 
wife ;  two  friends  have  come  to  visit  them,  and  here 
they  lie,  all  four  completely  stupefied,  and  under  the 
influence  of  the  drug  till  morning. 


SOME  SIGHTS   IN   NORTHERN   CALIFORNIA.  29 

Through  special  courtesy  shown  to  our  guide  we  are 
permitted  to  enter  a  Chinese  theatre  by  the  back  door, 
thus  obtaining  a  sight  of  the  green  room  and  the 
actors'  quarters.  In  the  former,  the  actors,  who  are  all 
men,  are  painting  their  faces  and  dressing  themselves 
in  such  hideous  effects  as  to  suggest  a  nightmare  to  my 
unaccustomed  American  sensibilities.  The  rooms  in 
which  the  actors  live,  eat,  and  sleep  are  indescribably 
loathsome,  situated  far  underground,  beneath  the 
theatre,  and  of  the  smallest  dimensions — four  feet  by 
six  by  five.  They  are  filthy  and  malodorous. 

Now  we  are  directly  back  of  the  scenes.  What  a 
medley  of  queer  things  and  people !  Painted  and 
masked  faces  peer  at  us  from  unrecognizable  objects ; 
soldiers,  native  and  other  characters  stand  out  from  a 
jumble  of  incongruous  surroundings — a  picture  of 
Hades  and  its  inhabitants. 

We  pass  on  to  the  stage,  where  chairs  have  been 
placed  for  us.  The  audience,  composed  of  Chinese  men 
and  women,  are  in  the  pit  and  gallery.  Such  dancing, 
shouting,  and  jumping,  such  grotesque  acting  could  not 
be  surpassed  by  a  band  of  Zulu  warriors.  In  an  hour 
we  have  enough  of  this  performance,  and  leave  the 
theatre,  the  deafening  noise  of  the  cymbals  and  brass 
drums  ringing  in  our  ears  long  afterward.  I  suppose 
the  audience  numbered  about  two  hundred. 

How  delightful  to  be  out  in  the  fresh  air  again  after 


30  VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

the  heavy  atmosphere  and  the  vile  smoke  from  the 
pipes  iii  the  theatre !  But  we  congratulate  ourselves 
too  soon.  As  we  enter  a  neighboring  grocery  store  a 
stronger  and  more  objectionable  odor  greets  our  olfac- 
tories. You  could  never  guess  what  this  store  sells  to 
the  people  of  Chinatown.  Somewhat  costly  articles, 


STREET  SCENE  IN  CHINATOWN,  CAL. 

too !      Hens'  eggs  imbedded  in  mud,  and  really  im- 
ported from  China. 

Think  of  the  delicious  soup  made  from  them !  We 
are  assured  that  this  soup,  made  of  eggs  three  or  four 
months  old,  is  a  great  delicacy.  Here  are  also  salt 


SOME   SIGHTS   IN   NORTHERN    CALIFORNIA.  31 

fish,  sharks'  fins,  dried  oysters,  seaweed,  and  various 
vegetables,  all  in  a  state  of  decomposition  and  exhaling 
odors  anything  but  pleasant.  The  jars  of  preserves, 
jams,  pickles,  and  spices  are  delusions  and  snares, 
treacherous  to  the  most  confiding  epicure.  We  are 
told  that  these  grocers  import  all  their  goods  from 
China. 

The  Chinese,  both  at  home  and  abroad,  are  clannish, 
always  giving  the  preference  to  home  productions. 

Chinese  workmen,  such  as  shoemakers,  clothiers, 
etc.,  receive  from  a  dollar  to  a  dollar  and  twenty-five 
cents  a  day,  and  work  from  8  A.  M.  till  9  P.  M.  ;  some 
of  them  are  employed  until  eleven  o'clock  at  night. 

After  three  hours  spent  among  their  haunts  we  leave 
the  Chinamen,  hoping  that  some  day  a  liberal  contribu- 
tion will  be  made  to  send  the  hard-working  missionary 
into  their  midst,  to  try  at  least  to  reform  these  forlorn 
and  deluded  creatures,  who  bear  so  little  resemblance 
to  God's  handiwork. 

Great  posters  and  placards  on  walls  and  fences,  as 
well  as  unlimited  matter  in  the  daily  papers,  announce 
that  the  contest  between  James  J.  Corbett,  the  "  Cham- 
pion of  the  World,"  and  Thomas  Sharkey,  is  to  take 
place  at  the  Mechanics'  Pavilion,  San  Francisco,  on  the 
2d  of  June.  The  affair  is  under  the  auspices  of  the 
"  National  Athletic  Club  of  Physical  Culture,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  Children's  Hospital." 


32  VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

I  ask  how  it  is  that  prize-fighting  is  allowed  in  a 
well-regulated  city  like  San  Francisco,  and  why  for  the 
benefit  of  the  Children's  Hospital?  I  am  told  that 
prize-fighting  is  permitted  by  law,  on  condition  that  a 
certain  portion  of  the  proceeds  is  devoted  to  charity ;  in 
this  case  the  amount  set  apart  for  the  hospital  is  from 
two  hundred  and  fifty  to  five  hundred  dollars.  So  the 
government  closes  its  eyes  to  one  of  the  most  brutal 
entertainments  of  the  age. 

As  some  ten  thousand  or  more  spectators  are  to  be 
present,  I  finally  compromise  with  my  conscience,  and, 
yielding  to  my  curiosity,  decide  to  join  the  throng  that 
will  fill  the  vast  pavilion  to  witness  the  match  for  the 
national  belt. 

Purchasing  a  ticket  of  admission  for  three  dollars,  I 
find  myself  in  a  good  position,  overlooking  the  great 
mass  of  men — with  one  exception.  I  perceive  a  young 
girl  sitting  close  to  the  raised  platform,  and  learn  later 
that  she  is  a  reporter  for  one  of  the  city  newspapers. 

Suddenly  a  bell  rings  loudly,  and  a  man  of  large 
proportions  appears  upon  the  platform.  The  great 
throng  becomes  as  silent  as  the  grave.  However,  he 
announces  only  the  lesser  satellites  of  the  ring,  and 
two  young  men  of  light  weight,  slender  forms,  and 
brutal  faces,  step  upon  the  stage.  They  seem  to  lack 
intelligence  as  well  as  refinement.  Time  is  called,  the 
opponents  shake  hands,  then  proceed  to  fight.  Blow 


SOME   SIGHTS   IN    NORTHERN   CALIFORNIA.  33 

after  blow  is  dealt  ;  after  a  half-dozen  rounds  the 
referee  declares  the  bout  a  "  draw,"  and  the  men  retire, 
having  stirred  the  audience  to  but  little  excitement. 

Two  manly  fellows  follow,  strong  and  well  built,  who, 
after  the  customary  etiquette  of  the  ring,  enter  upon  an 
earnest  and  vigorous  battle ;  in  the  third  round  one  of 
the  antagonists  plants  a  well-directed  blow  upon  the 
neck  of  his  adversary,  with  such  force  that  the  mail 
falls  to  the  ground,  and  lies  there  stunned ;  at  the 
last  call  he  rises  with  great  effort,  only  to  fall  back 
again  so  helplessly  that  he  is  assisted  from  the  ring, 
while  the  victor,  descending  from  the  platform,  is 
greeted  with  a  tremendous  uproar  of  applause. 

All  are  now  awaiting  the  champions  in  breathless 
excitement,  but  there  is  much  delay,  and  the  impatient 
multitude  fill  the  air  with  vociferous  calls  and  cheers ; 
still  they  come  not. 

Finally,  amid  deafening  applause,  the  great  "  Shar- 
key "  ascends  the  platform  ;  every  time  the  powerful 
athlete  bows  his  friends  in  the  audience  respond  with 
rousing  cheers.  He  moves  quietly  to  his  place  in  the 
ring  and  seats  himself;  his  expression  is  determined 
and  confident. 

In  a  few  moments  the  world-renowned  champion, 
"James  Corbett,"  makes  his  appearance.  It  is  impos- 
sible to  describe  the  tumult  that  follows.  Men  shout 
themselves  hoarse;  hats,  canes,  and  papers  are  thrown 
3 


34  VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

in   the   air,    and   those   whose   excitement   knows    no 
bounds,  jump  up  and  down  on  their  chairs. 

At    last    order   is   restored,   and   the   great   throng 
hushed,  yet  there  are  still  many  delays  and  prelimi 
naries ;  the  details  must  be  perfect,  for  the  result  of 
this  fight  will  be  carried  over  the  wires  from  west  to 
east,  and  to  ever}'-  quarter  of  the  globe. 

Everything  is  now  ready,  and  amid  utter  silence  the 
athletes  rise  and  walk  towards  each  other.  They 
stand  during  a  minute  of  intense  stillness,  and,  look- 
ing over  the  crowd,  the  observer  is  impressed  with  the 
importance  of  the  occasion. 

The  signal  is  given,  and  the  rivals  shake  hands ; 
then  the  battle  begins ;  hard  blows  are  rapidly  ex- 
changed. 

The  audience  is  silent  and  orderly,  the  only  sounds 
heard  being  those  made  by  the  combatants.  At  the  end 
of  three  minutes  the  bell  announces  a  rest,  and  the  tumult 
begins  again.  Cheers  and  shouts  resound  through  the 
hall,  now  for  "  Corbett,"  now  for  "  Sharkey." 

At  the  tap  of  the  bell  the  champions  spring  to  their 
feet  with  the  nimbleness  of  cats.  This  round  is  more 
violent  than  the  other ;  another  rest  and  a  bout.  When 
the  third  round  is  finished,  the  blood  streaming  from 
the  face  of  one  of  the  men,  and  the  great  lumps  dis- 
figuring the  countenance  of  both,  render  the  spectacle 
utterly  revolting. 


SOME  SIGHTS   IN   NORTHERN   CALIFORNIA.          35 

On  the  fourth  and  last  round  they  fight  furiously 
and  savagely,  spurred  on  by  the  large  sum  at  stake 
and  the  fame  of  the  championship.  They  are  so  brutal 
in  their  attacks,  and  rush  on  each  other  with  such 
reckless  disregard  of  the  rules  of  the  ring  that  the 
referee  is  compelled  to  call  in  the  attending  officers  to 
separate  them,  which  is  not  accomplished  without  great 
difficulty.  The  whole  affair  is  so  disgraceful  that  it  is 
brought  to  a  close  by  the  interference  of  the  police. 
The  referee  announces  a  "  draw."  Upon  this  the  noise 
and  confusion  that  ensue  are  beyond  description.  I 
doubt  if  it  could  be  exceeded  by  the  roar  of  Niagara. 
Swearing,  tearing  of  programs,  yells,  smashing  of 
chairs,  shouts  of  "Bribery!"  "  A  lie!"  "A  cheat!" 
mingle  with  groans  and  hisses. 

It  is  long  before  the  great  sea  of  angry  and  disap- 
pointed people,  still  muttering  threats  and  impreca- 
tions, slowly  vacates  the  hall. 

As  I  am  the  last  to  leave,  I  look  around  upon  the 
confusion  and  wreck  of  chairs  and  benches,  and  realize 
that  I  have  been  to  a  prize  fight,  and  that  brutality  and 
barbarism  did  not  die  out  with  the  eighteenth  century. 

We  have  planned  a  trip  to  San  Jose,  the  Lick  Ob- 
servatory, Santa  Cruz,  and  Monterey,  previous  to  our 
departure  for  the  Hawaiian  Islands  and  Japan. 

San  Jose  is  one  of  the  loveliest  of  California's  cities. 
The  hotel  to  which  we  are  driven  is  a  fine  building, 


36  VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

spacious  and  elegant,  situated  in  a  delightful  grove, 
with  a  lawn  of  exquisite  beauty ;  a  perfect  haven  of 
rest  to  the  tired  traveler.  The  rooms  are  comfortable, 
and  the  service  that  of  a  first-class  hotel. 

We  have  engaged  seats  on  the  stage  for  the  drive  to 
and  from  the  Lick  Observatory. 

At  12.30  P.  M.,  on  the  day  following  our  arrival,  the 
stage,  drawn  by  four  well-kept  black  horses,  appears  at 
the  door  of  our  hotel,  and  we  take  our  places  therein 
in  company  with  others  of  our  party ;  the  whip  is 
cracked,  the  reins  tightened,  and  we  are  off  on  a  jour- 
ney of  fifty-four  miles. 

For  some  distance  the  dust  plays  a  prominent  part 
with  passengers  as  well  as  landscape,  but  there  are  few 
complaints,  as  this  is  the  inevitable  accompaniment  of 
California  drives,  and  we  are  all  enthusiastic  over  the 
treat  in  store  for  us. 

Now  we  ascend,  now  descend  by  a  well-graded  car- 
riage road,  the  view  growing  finer  as  we  gradually 
increase  our  altitude. 

In  the  distance  the  fields  of  San  Jose  look  like  a 
checker-board,  while  the  houses  seem  like  specks  on 
the  picture. 

When  we  have  driven  ten'  miles  we  stop  to  change 
horses  and  take  some  refreshment,  starting  again  in  a 
short  time  with  renewed  speed.  The  country  is  more 
and  more  interesting.  Far  off  in  the  distance  we  can 


SOME  SIGHTS   IN  NORTHERN   CALIFORNIA.          37 

see  Mt.  Hamilton,  upon  whose  topmost  peak  the  Lick 
Observatory  is  situated. 

It  is  nearly  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  ;  we  stop  at 
a  small  hotel,  change  horses,  and  partake  of  a  sub- 
stantial supper.  The  hotel  is  at  the  base  of  Mt.  Ham- 
ilton, and  we  have  still  a  drive  of  seven  miles  before 
us  ere  we  reach  our  destination.  With  strong  horses 
we  start  once  more  on  our  upward  journey.  The  road 
is  a  marvel  of  modern  engineering. 

Higher  and  higher  we  ascend ;  our  trusty  horses 
never  falter  or  stumble.  These  horses  are  used  only 
on  this  winding  road  ;  thus  accuracy  of  step  and  sure- 
ness  of  foot  is  secured,  and  there  is  little  or  no  danger 
of  accident. 

What  grandeur  surrounds  us  !  Far  away  on  the 
right  and  left  the  tops  of  adjacent  mountains  are 
visible ;  close  by  us  a  tall  pine  tree  shoots  out  from  the 
side  of  the  mountain,  overlooking  the  deep  canon 
below;  in  its  topmost  branch  an  eagle,  jealous  of  her 
location,  has  built  her  nest  where  she  may  rear  her 
young  undisturbed.  Another  turn  in  the  road,  and  we 
are  in  the  presence  of  one  of  Nature's  grandest  pictures. 

From  the  very  edge  of  the  path  we  can  overlook  the 
great  canon  fully  three  thousand  feet  beneath.  I 
shudder  thinking  of  our  fate,  if  one  of  the  horses 
should  stumble,  or  a  wheel  of  the  coach  give  way  ! 
But  a  happier  inspiration  tells  me  that  it  would  mean 


38  VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

only  the  change  from  our  mortal  to  a  heavenly 
state. 

On  and  on  we  go,  till  it  seems  that  the  mountain  has 
no  summit.  We  do  not  reach  it  until  we  have  attained 
an  altitude  of  four  thousand  four  hundred  and  forty- 
four  feet.  Meanwhile  the  road  has  become  quite  narrow 
— only  wide  enough  for  one  vehicle. 

We  are  now  so  high  that  we  have  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  surrounding  country  ;  the  finest  prospect  in  this 
region,  and  one  which  is  considered  the  chief  attraction 
of  the  drive. 

At  last  we  have  reached  the  summit,  having  made 
three  hundred  and  forty-seven  turns  in  the  road  from 
the  base  of  the  mountain,  a  distance,  as  I  have  said,  of 
seven  miles. 

We  leave  the  stage  with  aching  joints,  and  enter  the 
great  observatory,  whose  fame  is  so  world-wide  that  it 
is  unnecessary  for  me  to  give  any  description  of  it  here. 

As  it  is  too  early  in  the  evening  to  view  the  planets 
through  the  wonderful  telescope,  we  spend  the  inter- 
vening time  on  the  roof  of  the  observatory.  I  feel  that 
no  words  of  mine  can  adequately  describe  the  scene  be- 
fore us.  The  setting  sun  casts  a  golden  and  crimson 
glow  over  the  landscape  ;  the  great  masses  of  cloud  far 
below  us  seem  like  the  boundless  sea,  with  here  and 
there  stupendous  breakers  rolling  and  tumbling  in  the 
glory  of  this  vivid  and  translucent  flame.  It  is  awe-in- 


SOME   SIGHTS   IN   NORTHERN   CALIFORNIA.  39 

spiring.  All  about  us  is  silent  and  still.  I  feel  the 
omnipotence  of  the  Divine  Master !  A  sense  of  remote- 
ness from  the  active  bustling  world  overpowers  one — a 
feeling  of  unreality.  Resting  here  at  this  immense 
height,  I  feel 

"  Like  one  who  wraps  the  drapery  of  his  couch  about  him 
And  lies  down  to  pleasant  dreams." 

Aye,  wondrous  visions  !  Shall  I  ever  forget  the  spec- 
tacle ! 

The  evening  advances,  and  the  hour  is  favorable. 
We  look  through  the  great  telescope  at  the  planets 
Jupiter  and  Saturn.  Yes,  we  gaze  through  the  largest 
telescope  in  the  world !  How  great  the  privilege ! 
The  heavens  are  unveiled  to  us  in  all  their  glory ! 

One  of  the  professors  connected  with  the  observa- 
tory gives  us  an  interesting  account  of  the  planets  now 
visible.  We  spend  several  hours  with  the  professor  and 
the  wonderful  glass,  then  start  on  our  return  down  the 
mountain.  The  moon  now  appears  in  all  her  glory  to 
lighten  the  dangerous  way,  and  add  to  our  confidence. 
Thus  we,  too,  are  favored  by  Divine  Providence,  even  as 
the  Israelites  of  old,  while  crossing  the  desert. 

As  the  horses  trot  down  the  steep  and  winding  way, 
it  requires  but  little  effort  of  the  imagination  to  feel 
that  we  are  floating  or  flying  through  the  air,  instead 
of  riding  in  a  wagon  with  hard,  inflexible  springs. 
Our  hearts  beat  quickly  as  we  approach  the  turns  in 


40  VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

the  road,  and  a  sense  of  relief  follows  as  [each  one  is 
rounded  in  safety. 

Surely  we  must  be  near  level  ground  now,  for  the 
trees,  for  the  first  time  since  we  started,  stretch  out  their 
long,  black  branches  far  above  our  heads.  Yes,  we  have 
reached  the  plain,  and  here  is  the  hotel  at  the  foot  of 
Mt.  Hamilton. 

We  should  thank  our  Creator  that  safety  was  with 
us  ;  but  being  of  earthly  mold,  we  are  more  inclined 
to  be  grateful  to  our  driver  for  deliverance  from  danger. 
The  descents  and  ascents  of  the  afternoon  are  grad- 
ually retraced.  A  dense  mist  surrounds  us,  obscuring 
the  view,  and  rendering  this  part  of  the  drive  uninter- 
esting. 

We  reach  the  Hotel  Vendome  at  1.30  A.  M.,  and  soon 
after  retire  to  bed,  to  live  over  in  dreamland  the  experi- 
ence of  a  happy  day. 

We  leave  San  Jose  at  10.17  the  following  morning 
for  Santa  Cruz,  the  City  of  the  Holy  Cross.  Upon 
arriving,  we  go  directly  to  our  hotel,  which  is  beauti- 
fully situated,  overlooking  the  placid  bay  of  Monterey. 

Santa  Cruz  is  a  small  city  of  not  more  than  seven 
thousand  souls  ;  its  pleasures  are  naturally  confined  to 
sea-bathing,  sailing,  fishing,  and  last,  but  not  least,  flirt- 
ing and  love-making. 

There  are  several  delightful  drives  and  walks  here- 
about; the  most  interesting  are  the  "Cliffs"  and  the 


SOME   SIGHTS   IN   NORTHERN   CALIFORNIA.  41 

picturesque  road  along  the  San  Lorenzo  River  and 
ravine  to  the  "  Big  Trees." 

A  morning  stroll  to  the  "  Cliffs  "  more  than  repays 
us.  The  wild,  rocky  coast,  with  the  huge  waves  dash- 
ing constantly  against  it  is  a  delight  to  the  artist's  soul. 

The  drive  to  the  "  Big  Trees,"  along  the  bank  of  the 
San  Lorenzo  and  through  a  rugged  ravine,  is  extremely 
picturesque. 

The  grove  of  the  "  Big  Trees  "  is  about  six  miles 
from  the  town.  Shortly  after  leaving  the  hotel  we 
plunge  abruptly  into  a  wild  forest ;  on  every  side  are 
tall  and  stately  redwood,  pine,  and  poplar  trees,  whose 
great  branches  rise  far  above  our  heads.  Some  of  the 
trees  attain  to  a  height  of  from  one  to  two  hundred  feet, 
not  merely  one  here  and  there  among  trees  of  smaller 
growth,  but  hundreds  that  are  massive  and  lofty. 

Now  we  ford  the  river,  and  in  a  few  minutes  reach 
the  grove  of  "  Big  Trees." 

What  solemn  grandeur  looms  up  here  !  As  we  pene- 
trate the  forest  we  are  surrounded  by  giants  whose 
ages  number  among  the  thousands. 

The  most  prominent  among  them  are  :  "  The  Giant," 
measuring  60  feet  in  circumference  and  300  feet  in 
height ;  "  General  Fremont,"  46  feet  in  circumference 
and  275  feet  in  height;  " Jumbo,"  48  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence and  270  feet  in  height;  "General  Grant,"  56  feet 
in  circumference  and  300  feet  in  height ;  "  Daniel  Web- 


42  VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

ster,"  40  feet  in  circumference  and  275  feet  in  height; 
"  Y.  M.  C.  A."  group,  78  feet  in  circumference,  300  feet 
high  ;  "  Ingersoll's  Cathedral,"  95  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence, 300  feet  high. 

I  could  mention  many  more,  but  the  above  list  will 
serve  to  give  an  idea  of  the  forest  of  "  Big  Trees." 

We  remain  four  days  in  Santa  Cruz,  then  wend  our 
way  to  that  most  famous  of  all  California  resorts,  the 
Del  Monte  Hotel  at  Monterey. 

The  hotel  is  only  half  a  mile  from  the  station,  where 
we  find  a  comfortable  coach  with  four  good  horses  wait- 
ing to  take  passengers  thither. 

Our  room  on  the  second  floor  is  pleasantly  situated, 
well  furnished,  and  comfortable,  with  bath  and  all  con- 
veniences. 

Having  freed  ourselves  from  the  dust  of  travel,  we 
roam  about  the  extensive  and  beautiful  grounds.  The 
hotel  stands  in  the  centre  of  a  tract  of  one  hundred  and 
forty  acres  of  lawn  and  woodland.  It  is  the  largest 
hotel  on  the  Pacific  coast  and  perfect  in  all  its  appoint- 
ments. It  is  impossible,  in  words,  to  do  justice  to  this 
mass  of  grandeur  and  magnificence,  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  spots  I  have  ever  beheld.  Here  are  hundreds 
of  lovely  bowers,  picturesque  flower-beds,  with  every 
kind  of  blossom  perfuming  the  air,  great  trees  with 
wide-spreading  branches  shading  velvety  lawns ;  birds 
filling  the  air  with  melody,  and  beautiful  women  niov- 


SOME   SIGHTS   IN   NORTHERN   CALIFORNIA.          43 

ing  about  the  spacious  halls  and  wandering  among  the 
shady  groves.  Music  entrances  the  soul  and  ideal  com- 
fort abounds  everywhere. 

The  scene  gives  one  the  idea  of  a  little  world,  includ- 
ing all  the  treasures  of  the  universe. 

At  night  the  gayety  is  at  its  height.  The  dance  in 
the  vast  ball-room,  where  among  the  throng  of  brilliant 
costumes  may  be  seen  the  latest  creations  of  Worth ; 
the  billiard  tables  in  the  ladies'  parlor,  surrounded  by 
expert  men  and  women  players ;  ten-pin  alleys,  conver- 
sation and  card-rooms,  smoking  dens,  the  nooks  on  the 
piazzas  where  the  electric  light  has  no  admission  and 
the  ardent  lover  may  plead  his  cause  before  a  Venus 
of  modern  fashion ;  all  are  upon  a  magnificent  scale. 
The  hotel  is  capable  of  accommodating  a  thousand 
guests. 

Monterey  is  about  to  celebrate  the  semi-centennial 
anniversary  of  the  settlement  of  California,  1846-1896. 
This  is  the  3d  of  July ;  the  festivities  are  to  be  held  on 
the  4th,  5th,  6th,  and  yth  of  the  month. 

A  walk  to  the  town  assures  one  that  something  un- 
usual is  going  on;  a  busier  place  could  hardly  be  found. 
Shopkeepers,  tradesmen,  and  others  are  zealously  en- 
gaged in  draping  bunting  and  mounting  flags.  Every 
inhabitant,  old  and  young,  is  preparing  for  his  or  her 
share  in  the  celebration.  Every  store  and  house  in  the 
place  is  gay  with  the  national  colors. 


44  VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

Monterey  is  a  small  place — so  small,  in  fact,  that  I 
would  not  hesitate  to  call  it  a  village,  and  even  that  on 
no  very  large  scale.  It  was  settled  by  Mexicans,  and 
the  houses  are  small  and  either  frame  or  adobe ;  they 
are  washed  or  painted  white,  which  gives  the  city  a 
clean  appearance. 

Many  Mexicans,  with  their  sallow  faces  shaded  by 
wide-brimmed  sombreros,  are  here,  standing  in  groups 
at  the  street  corners  discussing  the  approaching  holi- 
days. 

Saturday,  July  4th. — This  is  the  first  day  of  the 
celebration.  We  are  on  hand  in  good  season. 

First  on  the  programme  is  a  naval  manoeuvre  by  the 
men-of-war  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  the  "  Philadelphia  " 
and  the  monitor  "  Monadnock."  At  twelve  o'clock 
there  is  a  great  firing  of  cannon,  witnessed  by  a  large 
assembly  of  people  on  the  beach  and  edge  of  the  town. 
When  the  noise  and  smoke  have  died  away  the  crowd 
moves  to  the  main  street,  in  accordance  with  the  pro- 
gramme. The  arrangements  are  under  the  manage- 
ment of  the  "  Grand  Parlor,  Native  Daughters  of  the 
Golden  West."  The  members  of  this  society  head  the 
procession,  the  lady  commander  on  horseback.  After 
them  come  the  officers  and  seamen  of  the  "  Philadel- 
phia" and  the  "  Monadnock,"  followed  by  cannon  and 
artillery.  A  large  float,  representing  the  Goddess  of 
Liberty,  is  received  by  the  people  with  enthusiasm. 


SOME  SIGHTS  IN   NORTHERN  CALIFORNIA.  45 

Two  hundred  young  girls  from  the  neighboring  col- 
leges, dressed  in  the  colors  of  the  Union,  march  down 
the  street,  and  take  their  places  on  a  stand  built  for  the 
occasion  ;  when  they  are  seated  they  present  a  true 
living  picture  of  our  national  flag.  Cheer  after  cheer 
expresses  the  appreciation  of  the  populace  for  this  novel 
and  beautiful  tableau. 

When  quiet  is  restored  the  bands  play  national  airs, 
and  appropriate  and  patriotic  addresses  are  made  by 
ladies  of  the  society  of  the  "  Native  Daughters  of  the 
Golden  West." 

These  speeches,  historical  as  well  as  patriotic,  receive 
much  applause. 

Hops  and  dances  at  the  hotels  and  public  halls  are 
announced  for  the  evening.  A  large  placard,  placed 
conspicuously  in  the  corridor  of  the  Del  Monte  Hotel, 
states  that  a  "  Grand  Hop  "  will  be  given  there. 

About  nine  o'clock  the  ball-room  is  filled  to  over- 
flowing with  fashionably-dressed  ladies  and  gentlemen. 
A  fine  orchestra  is  awaiting  the  signal  of  the  master 
of  ceremonies,  light  refreshments  are  placed  on  con- 
venient tables,  and  the  hall  is  lavishly  decorated  with 
plants  and  flowers. 

The  music  bursts  forth,  hundreds  of  feet  glide  over 
the  polished  floor,  and  without  any  effort  one  can 
imagine  himself  transported  to  fairy-land. 

The  music  is  still  ringing  in  our  ears  as  we  enter  our 


46  VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

room  at  a  late  hour,  and  with  its  strains  ends  the 
"  Glorious  Fourth,"  the  pride  and  joy  of  every  true 
American  in  the  West  as  well  as  in  the  East. 

To-day  we  take  the  seventeen-mile  drive,  one  of  the 
chief  attractions  of  this  place.  Leaving  the  hotel  at 
two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  with  a  fine  pair  of  horses, 
we  drive  through  the  old  town  of  Monterey,  passing 
the  first  jail,  post-office  and  custom  house  built  in  the 
State.  These  buildings  date  back  to  about  1770  A.  D. 
Here,  too,  the  first  American  flag  was  raised  in  Cali- 
fornia. 

Leaving  Monterey,  our  road  skirts  the  bay.  Off  in 
the  distance,  upon  the  water's  edge,  may  be  seen  an 
old  Chinese  fishing  settlement.  The  Chinamen  pack 
their  fish  in  salt,  and  ship  them  directly  to  China ;  as 
there  is  a  heavy  duty  on  salt,  these  so-called  slow 
Chinese  pack  the  greater  part  of  their  barrels  with 
salt,  the  lesser  with  fish,  thus  evading  the  vigilant  eyes 
of  Uncle  Sam's  officials. 

We  drive  through  Pacific  Grove,  a  religious  settle- 
ment, similar  to  that  at  Ocean  Grove,  New  Jersey. 

Now  leaving  the  bay  we  are  on  the  Pacific  Ocean 
beach.  What  a  fine  and  extensive  view !  The  great 
rocks  jutting  out  of  the  water  afford  resting  places  for 
thousands  of  ducks,  pelicans,  and  other  wild  fowl.. 
Here  and  there  are  smaller  rocks,  over  which  the  waves 
dash,  throwing  their  spray  high  in  the  air.  Several 


SOME   SIGHTS   IN    NORTHERN   CALIFORNIA.  47 

iniles  farther  on  are  the  Seal  Rocks,  and  a  drive  of 
a  mile  or  more  brings  us  to  the  end  of  the  peninsula, 
which  is  called  Carmel  Point.  Here  we  rest  the  horses 
and  enjoy  a  beautiful  view  of  country  and  ocean. 
Cypress  trees  grow  from  crevices  in  the  rocks  at  the 
very  edge  of  the  water. 

Our  drive  is  a  circuitous  one ;  when  we  reach  an 
elevation  of  five  hundred  feet  we  can  see  the  Hotel  Del 
Monte  facing  us  in  the  distance,  amid  its  stately  groves 
of  oak  and  pine ;  a  half-hour  later  we  reach  its  hospit- 
able doors  once  more,  and  looking  at  our  watches,  find 
that  we  have  been  absent  just  three  hours. 

To-morrow,  at  8.45  in  the  morning,  we  leave  this 
gay  and  interesting  spot  for  San  Francisco,  going 
directly  to  the  Palace  Hotel,  where  we  will  remain  until 
Saturday,  July  nth,  when  our  steamer,  the  "  Aus- 
tralia," will  sail  for  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 

We  are  anxious  to  be  off,  feeling  that  our  greatest 
sight-seeing  will  begin  when  we  bid  adieu  to  our  dear 
America. 

What  might  befall  us  the  next  few  months  time 
alone  can  tell.  The  traveler  at  all  times  takes  his 
life  in  his  hands  ;  but  at  home,  or  among  a  strange 
people  in  foreign  lands,  or  on  the  pathless  sea,  we  trust 
ever  in  Him  whose  loving  wisdom  orders  all  things 
well. 

The  day  of  our  departure  from  San  Francisco  has 


48  VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

arrived  ;  the  usual  preparations  for  a  loug  ocean  voyage 
have  been  made. 

At  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning  a  carriage  awaits  us 
in  the  courtyard  of  the  hotel,  and,  with  steamer  trunks, 
chairs,  and  rugs,  we  are  driven  to  the  Fulsom  Street 
pier,  where  the  "Australia"  is  moored.  Our  state- 
rooms, comfortable  and  well  ventilated,  are  on  the 
promenade  deck.  At  exactly  ten  o'clock  the  whistle 
sounds,  the  steamer  casts  off  her  moorings,  and  with 
the  bustle  and  confusion  of  departure,  "  Good-bye  " 
and  "  God  bless  you,"  in  many  keys,  still  ringing  in 
our  ears,  we  break  away  from  the  shore,  and  find  our- 
selves out  in  the  middle  of  the  bay. 

The  steamer  is  to  be  our  little  world  for  the  next  six 
days.  We  are  cut  off  from  all  communication  with  any 
human  beings  save  those  around  us ;  dependent  upon 
ourselves  and  each  other.  A  slight  feeling  of  sadness 
overcomes  us,  and  we  begin  to  talk  of  the  loved  ones  in 
our  far-off  home. 


HONOLULU  AND  THE  NATIVES. 

The  voyage— Haleakala — Leper  colony — Captain's  dinner— Koko 
Head — Harbor  of  Honolulu — Revenue  officers — Hawaiian  breakfast — 
Poi  —Statistics— Waikiki  beach— Sharks— Surf  boating— Gathering 
sea  moss — Shopping  in  Honolulu — Japanese  tailor— Fish  market- 
Cricket  grounds — "Hula  Hula"  dance. 

WE  glide  swiftly  and  smoothly  down  the  bay  and 
through  the  Golden  Gate  to  the  sea ;  as  soon  as  we 
meet  the  waters  of  the  ocean  the  steamer  begins  to 
plunge  from  side  to  side ;  the  change  from  the  calm 
bay  and  clear  sky  to  rough  waves  and  fog  is  sudden, 
and  not  very  pleasant  in  its  effects. 

One  by  one  the  passengers  seek  their  staterooms, 
some  from  fatigue,  others  for  reasons  more  apparent. 

An  uneventful  night,  with  more  or  less  rolling,  car- 
ries us  far  out  to  sea  ;  we  learn  in  the  morning  that  the 
wind  has  driven  us  fully  twenty-five  miles  out  of  our 
course. 

To-day  old  ocean  is  more  placid,  the  air  dry  and 
pleasant.  The  passengers  appear  again  on  deck,  and 
good  feeling  and  sociability  prevail.  We  are  happy  to 
find  so  many  charming  and  congenial  people  on  board. 
The  captain  is  the  jovial  personage  that  we  often  read 
about;  his  good  humor  and  kindness  make  sunshine 
4  49 


5O  VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

wherever  he  is.  We  are  fortunate  enough  to  have 
seats  at  his  left  hand  at  table,  and  as  there  is  an  un- 
usually agreeable  company,  meal-time  is  a  season  of 
bright  and  interesting  conversation.  We  also  have 
fine  appetites  for  the  good  things  provided  by  the 
steward,  and  the  danger  of  becoming  sick  is  more  from 
over-eating  than  from  over-rolling  of  the  ship. 

The  days  are  perfect.  The  ocean  is  smooth  and 
calm,  well  deserving  its  name ;  its  deep  purple  hue 
spreads  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see. 

Every  one  on  board  seems  well  and  happy ;  games, 
such  as  pitching  quoits,  sand  bags  and  the  like,  fill  the 
daylight  hours,  while  the  evenings  are  passed  pleas- 
antly in  promenades,  conversation,  music,  cards,  and 
reading. 

It  is  a  beautiful  night,  the  moon  illumines  sky  and 
sea.  The  grandeur  of  the  ocean,  with  its  long  regular 
waves  broken  here  and  there  by  white  caps,  fills  me 
with  awe.  As  I  look  upon  the  boundless  scene,  perfect 
above  and  below,  my  thoughts  wander  homeward  across 
the  distance  that  daily  grows  greater  between  us  and 
our  dear  friends  in  Philadelphia.  When  we  reach  the 
Hawaiian  Islands  we  will  be  about  five  thousand  miles 
from  the  dearest  spot  on  earth  to  us. 

The  thermometer  to-day  is  eighty  degrees  in  the 
shade  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  There  is  little 
happening  worthy  of  note.  We  see  our  first  whale,  a 


HONOLULU   AND   THE   NATIVES.  51 

fine  large  fellow,  swimming  leisurely  along,  quite  near 
the  ship,  and  spouting  water  at  frequent  intervals. 
Flying  fish  are  seen  in  large  numbers  ;  sometimes  we 
sail  through  a  school  of  the  pretty  creatures,  who  flut- 
ter about  us  greatly  frightened. 

At  breakfast  this  morning  the  captain  informs  us  that 
we  will  have  our  first  sight  of  land  before  sunset,  so, 
after  packing  trunks,  rugs,  etc.,  we  loiter  about  deck. 
Gazing  idly  over  the  waste  of  waters,  and  counting  the 
gulls  that  continually  follow  the  ship,  I  behold  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  scenes  with  which  an  ocean  voyager 
can  be  favored. 

Great  clouds  are  banked  upon  the  left,  like  mountains 
thousands  of  feet  high,  softly  tinted  by  the  rays  of  the 
sun.  At  this  moment  the  captain  asks  me  if  I  can  see 
the  great  Haleakala,  the  largest  extinct  crater  in  the 
world,  upon  the  island  of  Maui.  Yes,  I  see  it  dis- 
tinctly peeping  through  the  clouds  like  an  enor- 
mous watch  tower.  Then  the  island  of  Molokai,  now 
ten  miles  distant,  comes  into  view.  Apparently  on  the 
very  edge  of  the  sea  rises  a  small  hill.  This  is  the 
Leper  settlement.  We  look  through  the  glasses,  strain- 
ing our  eyes  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  houses,  but  can 
distinguish  nothing ;  the  horizon  and  the  sea  engulf 
them. 

What  a  weird  and  awful  place  to  live  !  Before  them 
extends  the  boundless  ocean,  and  back  of  them  rise  the 


52  VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

lofty  mountains  and  precipices  of  the  island.  These 
forlorn  people  are  thus  held  prisoners,  access  to  the  out- 
side world  being  entirely  cut  off.  The  Hawaiian 
government  provides  for  all  their  needs,  requiring 
neither  rent  nor  taxes  from  them,  and  allows  all 
that  is  possible  to  render  them  comfortable  and  con- 
tented. 

On  our  right,  almost  at  the  bow  of  the  steamer,  is  the 
island  of  Oahu.  The  city  of  Honolulu,  which  is  our 
destination,  is  situated  upon  this  island.  We  hope  to 
arrive  about  six  o'clock  this  evening. 

On  the  last  day  of  an  ocean  voyage  it  is  customary 
for  the  captain  to  give  a  champagne  dinner  to  the 
passengers  of  the  first  class.  On  this  occasion  I  am 
requested  to  be  speaker.  As  the  hour  approaches,  I 
am  escorted  to  the  promenade  deck,  where  the  company 
is  assembled,  each  provided  with  a  tin  horn,  pan, 
bucket,  or  other  resounding  instrument.  We  walk 
into  the  dining-room  in  Indian  file,  and  then  break  into 
uproarious  confusion.  The  noise  is  almost  deafening. 
Speeches  are  made  expressing  the  appreciation  of  all 
the  passengers  for  the  uniform  kindness  and  considera- 
tion received  during  the  voyage.  The  captain  is  quite 
overwhelmed  by  our  enthusiasm. 

We  can  now  see  Koko  Head,  a  prominent  rocky 
peak,  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  island  of  Oahu.  As  we 
steam  nearer,  we  behold  a  beautiful  picture.  The  sides 


HONOLULU   AND   THE   NATIVES. 


53 


of  the  mountain  are  covered  with  lava  from  the  extinct 
crater ;  vegetation  has  sprung  up  in  the  crevices,  and 
the  sun  shining  over  all,  produces  a  lovely  effect  of 
wonderful  colors. 

At  the  base  of  the  mountain  and  along  the  beach  are 
hundreds  of  tropical  trees,  such  as  the  algeroba,  the 


"SHOUTING  LUSTILY  FOR  NICKELS." 

palm,  cocoanut,  and  others  of  rich  and  luxuriant 
foliage.  The  first  of  these  yields  a  bean  ten  to  four- 
teen inches  long,  which  falls  when  ripe,  is  dried  and 
used  as  food  for  cattle. 

We  are  now  passing  the  Manoa  Valley  and  Waikiki 


54  VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

Beach.    The  scenery  throughout  is  rich  in  color  and  of 
uncommon  beauty. 

There  is  abundant  pasturage  back  in  the  valley  and 
upon  the  mountain  slopes. 

Looming  up  before  us  are  Diamond  Head  and  Punch 
Bowl,  both  extinct  craters. 

With  indescribable  feelings  we  enter  the  harbor  of 
Honolulu. 

Before  reaching  the  pier  we  are  attracted  to  the  side 
of  the  steamer  by  loud  calls  from  the  native  children, 
and,  looking  down  into  the  water,  see  about  twenty- 
five  boys,  ranging  from  ten  to  eighteen  years  of 
age,  quite  naked,  shouting  lustily  to  us  to  throw 
nickels  to  them.  We  are  amazed  to  see  these 
boys  dive  for  the  coins.  They  are  excellent  swim- 
mers and  wonderfully  expert,  invariably  catching  a 
piece  as  small  as  a  dime  before  it  can  sink  to  the 
bottom. 

An  interesting  native  and  local  picture  is  before 
us.  Among  the  large  crowd  assembled  on  the  pier  to 
receive  friends  and  relatives  from  the  steamer  are 
Americans,  Englishmen,  Portuguese,  Kanakas,  Japan- 
ese, and  Chinese. 

The  revenue  officers  are  very  strict  at  this  port  in 
regard  to  two  articles — whiskey  and  fire-arms.  As  I 
have  a  little  of  the  former  and  one  piece  of  the  latter 
some  suspicion  falls  on  me. 


HONOLULU   AND   THE   NATIVES. 


55 


A  statement  is  taken  of  niy  name,  age,  address,  and 
general  appearance,  how  long  I  expect  to  remain  on  the 
islands,  and  my  destination.  All  this  on  account  of  my 
cruel  little  pistol.  The  custom  house  officers  inform  me 
that  if  I  wish  to  regain  the  weapon  I  must  apply  at  the 
police  marshal's  office.  I  reply  that  I  do  not  desire  to 


carry  it,  and  that  some  of  my  friends  who  are  return- 
ing to  the  "  States  "  may  take  possession  of  it.  This 
seems  satisfactory.  The  islands  are  under  strict  mili- 
tary rule,  and  great  precaution  is  necessary  to  prevent 
insurrections. 

Before  going  farther  I  will  briefly  describe  the  prin- 


VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 


cipal  characteristics  of  the  islands  we  are  about  to  visit. 
The  Hawaiian  Islands  are  situated  in  the  west  Pacific 
Ocean.  They  lie  between  18°  50'  and  22°  20'  north 
latitude,  between  154°  53'  and  160°  15'  west  longitude 
from  Greenwich.  The  islands  are  eight  in  number : 
Hawaii,  Maui,  Oahu,  Kanai,  Malokai,  Lauai,  Niihau, 
and  Kahoolawe.  The  three  latter  are  comparatively 
unimportant.  This  group  was  named  the  Sandwich 
Islands  on  their  discovery  by  Captain  Cook,  in  honor 
of  his  patron,  the  Barl  of  Sandwich,  then  First  Lord  of 
the  Admiralty. 

The  following  table  may  be  of  interest,  although 
I  shall  go  but  little  into  statistics,  as  the  annual 
reports  issued  by  the  Hawaiian  Government  will 
furnish  more  details  than  this  volume  is  intended  to 
give. 


ISLAND. 

C/5    r*       • 

2*3 
i^ 

OH-) 

Greatest 
Breadth 
Miles. 

Number 
of 
Square 
Miles. 

Number 
Acres. 

Population, 
Census 
of 
1890. 

Highest 
Elevation 
Feet. 

Hawaii, 

90 

73 

4,210 

2,500,000 

26,784 

13,805 

Maui,      .    . 

48 

30 

760 

400,000 

17,357 

10,032 

Oahu,     .    . 

46 

25 

600 

360,000 

31,194 

4,060 

Kanai,    .    . 

22 

25 

590 

350,000 

n,859 

4,800 

Molokai,    . 

40 

7 

270 

2OO,OOO 

2,632 

3,500 

Lanai,    .   . 

17 

9 

ISO 

100,000 

174 

3,000 

Niihau,  .    . 

2O 

7 

97 

70,000 

.    .    . 

800 

Kahoolawe, 

II 

8 

63 

30,000 

.    .    . 

i,45o 

HONOLULU   AND   THE   NATIVES.  57 

The  highest  peaks  in  the  Island  of  Oahu  : 

Feet. 
Kaala,   .   .   , „ 4,030 

Palikea,  Waiariae  Mountains .  3,111 

Konahuanui  Peak,  south  of  Pali, 3,io6 

Lanihuli  Peak,  north  of  Pali, 2,780 

Diamond  Head,  Leahi, 762 

Koko  Head, 1,206 

Island  of  Maui : 

Haleakala, 10,032 

Island  of  Hawaii : 

Mauna  Kea, 13,805 

Mauna  Loa, .  13,675 

Hualalai, 8,275 

Population,  1890: 

Natives, 34,436 

Half  castes, 6, 186 

Chinese, 15,301 

Americans, 1,928 

Hawaiian  born,  foreign  parents 7,495 

Japanese .  12,360 

Norwegians, 227 

Britons, i,344 

Portuguese, 8,602 

Germans, I,°34 

French,    ......         70 

Other  foreigners ....<,.„ =   .       419 

Polynesian, 3  ........       588 

Total, 89,990 


58  VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII  AND  JAPAN. 

Ill  1894  the  schools  numbered  176. 

In  1895  : 

In  Government  schools,   .   .   .  260  teachers,  9, 264  pupils 

In  independent  schools,    .   .   .  175        "  3.375      " 


Total, 435  12,639 

Owing  to  the  coral  reefs  there  are  no  really  good 
harbors  except  Honolulu  and  Pearl  Harbor. 

The  islands  are  of  volcanic  structure.  On  the 
island  of  Hawaii  is  found  the  largest  known  active 
volcano,  and  several  others  of  great  size,  partially  or 
wholly  quiescent. 

There  are  many  plains  with  soil  composed  of  ashes 
and  cinders.  Extinct  volcanoes  of  every  age,  size,  and 
shape  are  common.  One  of  these  is  a  well-known 
promontory  near  Honolulu  called  Leahi,  better  known 
as  Diamond  Head,  from  an  idea  once  current  that 
precious  stones  were  to  be  found  there. 

There  are  few  minerals.  The  usual  varieties  of 
lava  and  pumice  stone  are  found.  No  metals  have 
been  discovered.  The  soil  of  the  islands  is  formed  of 
decomposed  volcanic  rocks,  sand,  mud,  and  ashes ;  to 
be  made  fertile  it  requires  constant  irrigation. 

The  fruits  are  the  banana,  bread  fruit,  cocoanut, 
strawberry,  raspberry,  the  ohia,  a  red,  juicy  mountain 
apple,  melons,  limes,  oranges,  guavas,  pineapples, 
grapes,  figs,  peaches,  citron ;  while  rice,  coffee,  cotton, 


HONOLULU   AND   THE   NATIVES. 


59 


indigo,  tobacco,  and  sugar-cane  are  successfully  raised ; 
also  yanis,  sweet  potatoes,  and  arrow  root. 

The  forests  are  usually  very  dense,  broken  here  and 
there  by  deep  chasms,  which  appear  to  have  been  once 
active  craters.  The  trees  are  overgrown  with  mosses 
and  ferns,  which  render  penetration  almost  impossible. 


HAWAIIAN  HOTEL,  HONOLULU. 

Wild  geese,  ducks,  plover,  hogs,  dogs,  steers,  and  wild 
horses  abound  in  the  islands. 

The  climate  is  salubrious,  and  the  temperature  even. 
During  twelve  years  the  greatest  heat  in  the  shade  was 
ninety  degrees,  greatest  cold  fifty-four.  The  mean 
temperature  is  about  seventy-five. 


60  VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

It  is  said  that  a  stranger,  asking  a  resident  if  the 
climate  of  the  islands  was  favorable  for  lung  troubles, 
was  told  that  some  three  years  ago  a  Chinaman  settled 
in  Honolulu  with  one  lung,  and  recently  returned  to 
his  native  country  with  three  lungs  (his  wife  and  two 
children). 

The  history  of  the  people  is  too  well  known  for  me  to 
enter  into  its  details. 

We  are  driven  to  the  Hawaiian  Hotel,  a  plain,  unpre- 
tentious wooden  structure,  surrounded  by  a  beautiful 
lawn,  with  palms,  bananas,  and  other  tropical  trees  and 
plants  of  magnificent  foliage,  rendering  it  a  veritable 
paradise,  with  which  we  fall  in  love  at  first  sight. 
Comfortable  quarters  are  assigned  us,  and  we  are  soon 
off  to  slumber  and  happy  dreams  amid  the  sweet  odors 
that  fill  the  air.  Mosquitoes  and  other  winged  pests 
exist  here  to  an  alarming  extent.  All  sleeping  apart- 
ments are  protected  by  netting,  otherwise  these  ener- 
getic and  persistent  creatures  would  prove  intolerable. 
Many  hotels  have  what  is  called  a  "  mosquito  room  ;" 
the  sides  are  made  of  netting,  which  these  insects  can- 
not pass. 

Mark  Twain  said  that  when  on  a  visit  to  these 
islands,  the  only  way  to  get  the  better  of  the  "  dear 
little  humming  birds,"  was  to  cut  a  hole  in  the 
netting,  then  get  into  bed ;  the  mosquitoes  would  come 
through  in  droves  ;  at  the  proper  moment  he  would  tie 


HONOLULU  AND   THE   NATIVES. 


6l 


up  the  hole,  get  out  of  bed,  and  sleep  unmolested  on 
the  floor. 

Our  first  meal  in  this  strange  country  is  breakfast. 
The  tables  are  filled  with  native  fruits,  such  as  alligator 
pears,  bananas,  pineapples,  apples,  and  last,  but  not 
least,  the  universal  dish  called  "  poi." 


TARO  PATCH,  HONOLULU. 

I  must  speak  more  particularly  of  this  article  of  food, 
which  is  so  extensively  used  on  the  islands  by  residents 
as  well  as  natives.  Poi  is  made  of  the  root  of  the  taro 
plant,  which,  having  been  soaked  and  the  skin  removed, 
is  dried  and  powdered ;  water  is  then  poured  on  it,  and 
it  is  set  aside  to  ferment,  or,  in  other  words,  until  it 


62 


VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 


becomes  sour,  at  which  time  it  assumes  the  consistency 
of  paste.  It  is  then  ready  to  be  eaten.  At  the  hotels 
it  is  served  like  mush,  and  eaten  with  sugar  and  cream, 
or  pressed  hard  and  taken  in  a  solid  form,  with  butter 
and  salt.  It  is  a  tasteless,  unpalatable  sort  of  food,  but 
considered  quite  wholesome. 


MAKING  Poi. 

After  breakfast  we  start  out  sightseeing.  Walking 
to  one  of  the  principal  streets,  upon  which  there  is  a 
line  of  cars,  we  enter  one.  Such  an  odd,  old-fashioned 
affair !  The  car  has  an  oval  top,  and  is  as  wide  as  a 
yacht.  It  is  drawn  by  a  pair  of  dilapidated  old  mules, 


HONOLULU   AND   THE    NATIVES.  63 

apparently  fed  on  air.  Our  destination  is  the  noted 
Waikiki  Beach,  three  miles  distant. 

We  leave  our  unpleasantly  rolling  and  rocking 
vehicle  gladly,  to  wander  along  the  beach.  Here  we 
find  bath-houses,  so,  donning  the  suit  usually  worn 
by  the  men,  a  pair  of  swimming  trunks,  I  plunge  into 
the  ocean,  and  enjoy  the  mild  temperature  and  fine  surf. 
The  reef,  about  two  miles  seaward,  protects  this  inland 
bay,  where  the  swimmer  may  enjoy  a  frolic  with  old 
Neptune  unmolested  by  the  thousands  of  carnivorous 
sharks  which  inhabit  these  waters. 

Many  thrilling  stories  are  told  of  the  experiences  of 
the  natives  with  these  dreaded  fish.  A  Kanaka  will  often 
row  his  boat  out  beyond  the  reef,  and,  seeing  a  shark, 
will  dive  into  the  water  and  engage  in  battle  with  him  ; 
and  it  is  always  the  Kanaka  who  kills  his  enemy. 

Surf  boating  is  one  of  the  many  pleasures  afforded 
by  the  sea,  to  resident  as  well  as  native.  Through  the 

kindness  of  my  good  friend,  Colonel  McF ,  I  am 

invited  to  join  in  one  of  these  novel  sports.  The  canoes 
used  are  very  long  and  narrow,  being  kept  in  place  upon 
the  water  by  two  long  outriders  which  support  a  heavy 
timber.  Our  party,  consisting  of  my  friend,  three 
native  Kanakas,  and  myself,  dressed  in  bathing  cos- 
tume, and  each  provided  with  a  paddle,  row  out  to  the 
reef,  where  the  waves  are  high  and  powerful.  Here  we 
await  one  unusually  large  and  strong.  When  such  a 


64 


VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 


one  appears,  and  we  hear  it  hissing  in  our  ears,  with  its 
white  crest  close  upon  us,  we  begin  to  paddle  all  to- 
gether towards  the  shore ;  as  soon  as  the  wave  strikes 
the  canoe  we  are  carried  with  great  speed  upon  its 
crest,  at  the  rate  of  fully  a  mile  a  minute.  We  reach 
the  beach  alive  and  unharmed. 


SURF  BOATING,  HONOLULU. 

This  is  a  very  exciting  and  sometimes  dangerous 
amusement,  for,  while  the  canoe  cannot  sink,  it  often 
capsizes,  throwing  its  occupants  into  the  water,  where 
the  force  of  the  waves  is  so  great  as  to  render  swimming 
a  hazardous  experiment.  The  sport  is  repeated  many 
times  until  fatigue  ends  our  enjoyment. 


HONOLULU  AND  THE   NATIVES.  65 

One  day  while  sitting  on  the  beach  reveling  in  the 
beauty  of  picturesque  Diamond  Head,  and  the  tropical 
plants  and  trees  that  fringe  the  shore,  I  observe  a  party, 
consisting  of  two  young  girls  and  a  very  old  woman, 
each  carrying  a  salt  sack  carelessly  at  her  side,  enter 
the  water,  and  swim  at  least  half  a  mile  seaward. 
Then  they  dive,  and  remain  a  long  time  under  water. 
I  time  some  of  these  dives,  and  perceive  that  fully  two 
minutes  elapse  before  they  return  to  the  surface. 
They  are  gathering  sea  moss,  and  having  filled  their 
bags,  swim  ashore  with  the  precious  load.  This  moss 
is  eaten  by  the  Kanakas,  and  is  quite  palatable.  The 
old  woman  is  at  least  ninety  years  of  age,  and  an 
athlete  in  strength. 

The  drive  to  Waikiki  Beach  is  most  charming. 
Along  the  entire  way,  on  either  side  are  picturesque 
and  elegant  mansions,  set  in  lawns  filled  with  tropical 
plants,  royal  palms,  banana  and  cocoanut  groves,  and 
flowers  in  profusion.  What  a  region  of  loveliness  ! 
The  air  is  full  of  fragrance,  the  scenes  are  those  of 
fairyland. 

We  have  passed  many  large  banana  and  cocoanut 
groves,  and  seen  hundreds  of  cocoanuts  and  bunches 
of  bananas  awaiting  the  harvest. 

It  is  very  entertaining  to  take  an  open  carriage  and 
drive  to  the  various  stores.  Passing  through  the  prin- 
cipal streets,  we  enter  a  Japanese  store,  where  I  pur- 
5 


66 


VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 


chase  a  native  island  straw  hat ;  also  a  large  fancy 
sash,  called  a  "  puggery,"  which  is  to  be  draped  artisti- 
cally around  the  hat.  Odd  at  first,  bnt  when  one  be- 
comes familiar  with  it,  quite  the  thing,  and  "  swell  " 
Honolulu  style.  With  a  white  flannel  or  linen  suit, 


WAIKIKI  BEACH,  HONOLULU. 

and  white  canvas  shoes,  one  feels  as  if  he  has  lived  on 
these  particular  islands  all  his  life. 

We  go  from  store  to  store,  purchasing  many  articles, 
useful,  convenient,  and  curious.  Prices  in  general  are 
the  same  as  in  the  ''  States,"  but  clothing  of  all  kinds 
is  much  cheaper. 


HONOLULU   AND   THE   NATIVES.  67 

The  tailors  and  dressmakers,  nearly  all  Japanese  or 
Chinese,  are  skilful  workmen,  and  wonderfully  quick 
in  fulfilling  orders.  For  instance,  on  Saturday  at  noon 
I  telephone  a  Chinese  tailor  to  bring  samples  of  linen 
and  flannel  to  our  hotel,  as  we  wish  to  order  suits.  He 
calls  promptly  with  numerous  styles  of  goods,  at  prices 
far  below  my  calculations.  They  would  be  reasonable 
in  our  country  at  double  the  charge. 

Choosing  my  materials,  I  order  two  suits,  to  be  fin- 
ished positively  by  Monday  night.  I  do  not  really 
require  them  so  soon,  but  do  this  as  a  joke  and  to  put 
the  tailor  on  his  mettle.  To  my  surprise,  at  supper 
time  of  the  same  day,  his  tailorship  calls  at  the  hotel, 
bearing  upon  his  arm  the  two  suits  to  be  tried  on, 
preparatory  to  finishing;  and  punctually  on  Monday 
evening  I  find  awaiting  me  in  my  room  the  two  suits 
of  clothing  and  the  smiling  tailor,  who  asks  politely  if 
he  is  in  good  time. 

It  is  worth  while  to  take  a  stroll  in  the  fish  market, 
which  is  an  open  building,  covering  an  acre  and  a  half 
of  ground ;  a  lofty  roof  protects  dealers  and  customers 
from  the  rays  of  the  sun  and  the  frequent  showers  for 
which  Honolulu  is  noted. 

The  market  is  only  ten  minutes'  walk  from  the 
hotel.  I  will  never  forget  my  first  impressions  of 
this  curious  scene.  Sellers  and  buyers,  of  all  na- 
tionalities— Kanakas,  Chinese,  Japanese,  Portuguese, 


68  VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

English,  and  Americans — mingle  together  as  one 
nation. 

And  such  strange  fish  are  on  the  table !  One  is  of 
emerald  green,  one  of  purple,  here  a  blue,  there  a  black 
specimen. 

Everywhere  may  be  seen  the  voluptuous  eyed  Ka- 
naka women,  robed  in  their  simple  "  Mother  Hubbard  " 
gowns,  talking,  laughing,  merry  making,  always  bright 
and  cheerful,  and  not  only  in  the  market,  but  at  every 
turn  of  the  street. 

The  dealers  have  an  odd  way  of  bundling  up  a  fish 
and  handing  it  to  the  purchaser  without  basket,  string, 
or  paper.  They  wrap  two  leaves,  about  eighteen  inches 
long  and  five  inches  wide,  dexterously  around  the  fish,  tie 
a  knot,  make  an  extra  twist,  and  behold  a  basket  with 
two  handles,  ingenious,  primitive,  and  cheap. 

To-day  we  visit  the  cricket  grounds.  The  admission 
fee  is  twenty-five  cents.  Upon  the  grand  stand  are 
seated  fully  four  hundred  spectators  and  the  celebrated 
Hawaiian  Band  of  sixty  pieces.  Among  the  audience 
are  many  young  half-breed  Kanaka  girls,  of  whose 
languishing  eyes,  handsome  forms,  and  glowing 
health  it  is  almost  impossible  to  give  an  idea.  The 
men,  too,  are  perfect  types  of  physical  health  and 
strength. 

We  spend  an  hour  or  two  looking  at  a  fairly  good 
game  of  base-ball  between  the  Kanaka  club  and  a  Cycle 


HONOLULU   AND   THE   NATIVES.  69 

club,  but  find  the  music  much  more  attractive  than  the 
play  of  amateurs. 

In  the  evening,  as  I  sit  upon  the  porch  listening  to 


"  HULA  "  DANCKRS. 


the  music,  and  gazing  out  into  the  moonlit  night  and 
the  tropical  bloom  surrounding  the  hotel,  a  party  of 
gentlemen  with  whom  I  am  acquainted  approach  and 


70  VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

ask  me  if  I  will  join  them  in  witnessing  a  genuine 
"  Hula "  dance.  I  consent,  and  at  eight  o'clock  we 
proceed,  with  a  competent  guide,  to  a  neighboring  cot- 
tage, where  the  dance  is  to  be  held.  The  dancing  is 
odd  and  by  no  means  beautiful. 

These  dances  were  instituted  by  the  natives  in  their 
primitive  life,  as  festivals  to  the  Goddess  I/aka. 

Returning  to  the  hotel  we  are  impressed  by  the  gay 
and  lovely  picture  of  life  it  presents. 

Parlor,  reception  and  ballroom  are  beautiful  and 
fragrant  with  flowers,  and  dozens  of  happy  young  peo- 
ple are  gliding  gracefully  through  the  modern  waltz,  to 
the  music  of  four  Kanaka  men,  who  sing  and  play  at 
the  same  time.  The  instruments  are  a  violin,  banjo, 
and  two  guitars. 

What  a  strange,  sweet  melody  this  native  music  has  ! 
So  different  from  our  own.  As  the  dance  goes  on  and 
on,  and  I  sit  on  the  porch  smoking  under  the  electric 
lights,  with  the  dusky  foliage  around  me,  and  the  soft 
sweet  melody  ringing  in  my  ears,  I  can  almost  believe 
that  I  have  been  transported  from  the  everyday  world 
to  a  true  and  living  paradise. 


PLANTATIONS  AND  MOUNTAINS. 

Second-class  cars — Native  smokers — Rice  plantation — Fields  of  sugar- 
cane— Crushing  the  cane — Planting  cane — Lunch  in  a  cocoanut  grove 
— Pearl  City  and  harbor — Pineapple  farm — Chinese  theatres — Strangers 
in  Honolulu — Climate — Departure  of  the  "  Australia" — The  Pali — On 
the  summit — Ladies  and  the  Pali — Punch  Bowl — Photographing  the 
natives — "  Poi  dog  " — Crab  fishing. 

THIS  fair  morning  I  leave  the  city  at  nine  o'clock 
with  a  party  of  gentlemen  to  visit  the  great  sugar-cane 
plantations  and  pineapple  farms  at  Pearl  River  and 
Waianae,  the  latter  place  nearly  thirty-four  miles  from 
Honolulu. 

In  order  to  observe  the  natives  we  purchase  second- 
class  tickets  at  the  railway  station ;  the  first-class  cars 
are  usually  occupied  by  tourists  and  the  better  class  of 
the  inhabitants.  We  are  well  repaid  for  our  choice. 
Opposite  us  is  an  old  Kanaka  woman  and  two  young 
girls,  all  dressed  in  the  loose  "  Mother  Hubbard  "  gar- 
ment. 

After  inspecting  us  closely,  and  seeming  satisfied 
that  we  are  harmless,  the  old  woman  reaches  down  into 
her  deep  pocket  and  draws  forth  an  ancient  pipe, 
rudely  fashioned  from  a  root ;  then  a  tobacco  pouch. 
She  fills  the  pipe,  lights  it  and  takes  two  or  three  puffs, 


72  VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

then  hands  it  to  the  young  girl  at  her  side,  who  also 
puffs  several  times,  and  passes  the  pipe  to  the  other 
girl.  With  evident  enjoyment  it  is  thus  smoked  alter- 
nately until  the  tobacco  is  exhausted,  when  it  is  refilled 
and  taken  in  turn  as  before. 

There  are  numerous  schools  in  Honolulu,  and  many 
of  the  Kanakas  have  been  taught  to  speak  the  English 
language.  We  converse  with  some  of  these  natives, 
who  give  us  much  information  in  regard  to  the  country 
through  which  we  are  traveling.  One  of  them,  a  hand- 
some middle-aged  Kanaka,  educated  at  one  of  the  Hon- 
olulu colleges,  proves  a  very  agreeable  and  interesting 
companion.  He  is  a  native  of  Waianae,  and  well 
acquainted  with  that  portion  of  the  island. 

Our  train  consists  of  a  first  and  a  second-class  car, 
and  we  travel  at  the  rate  of  fifteen  miles  an  hour  on  a 
fairly  good  track.  As  I  look  from  my  car  window  I 
see  many  uncommon  and  picturesque  sights.  On  one 
side  the  mountains  rise  hundreds  of  feet,  their  summits 
ever  enveloped  in  clouds  ;  on  the  other  the  ocean  waves 
dash  ceaselessly  upon  a  rugged  coast. 

The  color  effects  on  and  around  Oahu  are  the  most 
beautiful  I  have  ever  beheld. 

We  stop  now  a  few  minutes  at  a  station  where  a  number 
of  natives  appear  to  receive  letters  and  merchandise. 
These  simple  folk  are  interesting  from  the  fact  that  they 
know  and  care  almost  nothing  for  the  outside  world. 


PLANTATIONS   AND    MOUNTAINS.  73 

Close  by  is  a  Japanese  fish  house ;  it  is  of  two 
stories.  Many  of  the  men  are  loitering  about  be- 
tween working  hours.  Their  dress  is  odd  and  unbe- 
coming. 

We  pass  a  rice  plantation,  on  which  many  men  are 
employed.  Over  in  a  distant  corner  I  see  a  native 
buffalo  harnessed  to  a  plough.  Buffaloes  are  commonly 
used  throughout  this  district.  The  soil  is  a  perfect 
mush,  and  the  costume  of  the  laborers  is  a  loose  blouse, 
minus  trousers.  The  ground  here  is  irrigated ;  the 
farms  are  owned  by  the  railroad  company  and  leased  to 
the  planters.  I  endeavor  to  learn  the  rate  per  acre,  but 
without  success.  The  rice  is  quite  short,  having  been 
only  recently  planted.  Here  are  also  many  fields  of 
taro. 

The  railroad  runs  for  miles  along  the  base  of  the 
Waianae  Mountains,  which  abound  in  wild  pigs,  dogs, 
and  goats.  By  paying  a  small  license  fee  one  may 
have  the  privilege  of  hunting  here  to  his  heart's  con- 
tent. The  mountains  are  of  volcanic  formation,  com- 
posed chiefly  of  basalt. 

We  have  reached  Waianae,  and  in  company  with  our 
new  acquaintance,  Mr.  Haiakulani,  and  by  his  courtesy 
we  are  allowed  to  go  through  a  large  sugar  mill.  On 
our  journey  thither  we  passed  miles  upon  miles  of 
sugar-cane  fields  belonging  to  the  company  owning  this 
mill.  The  cane  is  ripe,  and  a  large  force  of  men  is 


74 


VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 


employed  in  cutting  it.  After  it  is  cut  it  is  carried  by 
small  cars  over  a  narrow  track  running  from  the  field 
to  the  crushing-mill,  and  is  here  unloaded  into  hoppers, 
and  the  juice  extracted  by  large  powerful  rollers.  It 
passes  through  the  rollers  three  times,  the  liquid  being 
conveyed  to  a  central  point,  and  into  a  large  trough 


SUGAR-CANE  FIELD. 

with  a  copper  sieve  at  the  bottom,  through  which  it  is 
strained.  It  is  then  carried  to  large  tubs  at  the  top  of 
the  mill,  where  the  molasses  and  sugar  are  made. 
Huge  piles  of  crude  brown  sugar  run  through  spouts 
upon  the  floor  beneath,  and  are  bagged  for  shipment  by 
the  natives.  The  molasses  is  shipped  in  hogsheads. 


PLANTATIONS   AND   MOUNTAINS.  75 

The  refuse  cane  is  dried  and  used  for  fuel,  thus  serving 
a  threefold  purpose. 

Cane  is  planted  by  cutting  a  canestalk,  sixteen  or 
eighteen  inches  long,  and  planting  it  a  few  inches 
below  the  surface  of  the  earth  ;  a  young  stalk  sprouts 
from  each  joint  or  eye.  Its  luxuriant  growth  can  easily 
be  imagined.  In  fourteen  months  from  planting  it 
reaches  maturity,  sometimes  attaining  a  height  of 
twenty  feet. 

Leaving  the  sugar  mill,  we  stroll  over  to  one  of  the 
many  cocoanut  groves  in  the  neighborhood  to  lunch 
and  rest  tinder  the  shady  trees  and  enjoy  the  view. 
The  proprietor  of  the  grove  invites  us  to  help  ourselves 
to  as  many  green  cocoanuts  as  we  wish,  to  eat  with  our 
lunch.  We  take  this  as  a  joke,  as  the  trees  are  tall  and 
the  fruit  very  high  ;  but  in  a  few  moments  a  small 
Kanaka  lad,  not  over  ten  years  of  age,  comes  running 
toward  us,  sent  by  the  owner  to  climb  one  of  the  trees 
and  knock  down  cocoanuts  for  us ! 

How  nimble  these  Kanaka  boys  are  !  With  perfect 
ease  he  runs  up  a  tree  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high,  and  with 
his  feet  knocks  down  as  many  cocoanuts  as  we  desire. 

The  fruit  being  green,  one  can  easily  cut  off  the  top 
and  drink  the  milk.  It  is  delicious.  I  think  each 
cocoanut  contains  about  three  pints  of  milk. 

Returning  to  Waianae  Station,  we  say  farewell  to  our 
kind  friend  and  guide,  and  take  the  train  for  Pearl  City. 


76  VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

Here  we  asceiid  a  high  hill,  not  far  from  the  station, 
to  obtain  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  famous  Pearl  Harbor. 
How  restful  to  eyes  and  soul  is  this  beautiful  body  of 
water ! 

During  our  walk  we  meet  a  native,  who,  upon  in- 
quiry, tells  us  that  only  a  mile  or  two  distant  is  one  of 
the  largest  pineapple  farms  in  the  neighborhood.  Tak- 
ing him  as  our  guide,  we  start  for  the  plantation. 

Arriving  shortly,  we  are  fortunate  enough  to  find  the 
wife  of  the  proprietor  at  home.  She  welcomes  us  hos- 
pitably, and  leads  us  to  the  large  tract  of  ground  en- 
tirely devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  this  fruit.  It  is  an 
interesting  sight.  Here  are  thousands  of  pineapples 
nearly  ready  for  the  market.  This  farm  will  produce 
one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  pineapples  in  one  crop, 
averaging  ten  thousand  to  the  acre.  Artesian  wells  are 
made  and  the  soil  is  irrigated.  The  price  of  pineapples 
from  first  hands  is  about  ten  cents  apiece,  regardless  of 
size ;  their  weight  is  from  seven  to  twelve  pounds, 
although  I  have  seen  much  fruit  weighing  fully  fifteen 
to  eighteen  pounds.  The  fruit  appears  twelve  months 
after  the  bud  is  planted  and  matures  two  months  later. 
What  a  feast  we  had  before  leaving  the  plantation  !  We 
return  to  Honolulu,  feeling  well  repaid  for  our  trip. 

In  the  evening  we  attend  a  Chinese  theatre — in  fact, 
two  theatres.  The  city  maintains  two  theatres,  both 
under  the  management  of  the  Chinese.  One  is  called 


PLANTATIONS   AND   MOUNTAINS.  77 

the  u  Old  "  the  other  the  "  New  "  theatre.  There  is 
little  or  no  difference  between  them,  either  inside  or 
out.  The  audience,  which  is  composed  of  Japanese 
and  Chinese,  seems  to  be  most  interested  in  that  part 
of  the  performance  which  makes  the  greatest  noise ; 
the  continuous  beating  of  large  gongs  and  brass  cym- 
bals, which  is  something  dreadful  ! 

The  stranger  visiting  Honolulu,  if  he  is  well  recom- 
mended by  letters  of  introduction,  is  cordially  received 
in  the  best  circles. 

The  people  are  hospitable  and  attentive  in  their  enter- 
tainment of  a  visitor.  The  service  at  the  hotel  is  also 
all  that  could  be  desired.  The  labor  is  performed 
entirely  by  Chinamen.  Our  chamber  boy,  "Ah  Cue," 
seems  happy  only  when  fulfilling  our  orders,  nothing 
that  we  ask  being  too  much  trouble. 

While  the  climate  is  tropical  the  temperature  is  not 
high;  yet  the  atmosphere  has  a  relaxing  effect,  and  one 
soon  loses  his  "American  vim"  and  energy,  becoming, 
like  natives  and  residents,  quite  willing  to  take  things 
"  easy." 

The  "Australia  "  is  the  favorite  steamer  of  the  people 
of  Honolulu,  and  it  is  entertaining  to  go  down  to  the 
harbor  and  witness  her  departure  on  one  of  her  voy- 
ages. 

The  Hawaiian  Band  assembles  on  the  end  of  the  pier, 
playing  popular  and  patriotic  airs,  while  friends  and 


78  VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

relatives  bid  each  other  farewell  on  the  steamer  and  the 
shore.  Upon  these  occasions  the  natives  bring  long 
garlands  of  flowers,  called  "  leis,"  four  or  five  feet  in 
length,  which  they  place  in  lavish  profusion  about  the 
necks  and  shoulders  of  the  departing  travelers.  Just 
before  the  steamer  casts  off  her  moorings  wreaths  and 


THE  PALI  ROAD. 

flowers  are  flung  over  her  in  perfect  abandon,  shouts  of 
"  bon  voyage !"  mingle  with  cheers,  music,  and  sing- 
ing, and  the  excitement  is  intense. 

We  choose  a  clear,  bright  afternoon  for  our  drive  to 
the  celebrated  Pali,  six  miles  and  a  half  from  Honolulu. 
The  road  is  a  gradual  ascent  to  a  height  of  over  twelve 


PLANTATIONS   AND   MOUNTAINS.  79 

hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  with  mountains 
towering  on  either  side  from  three  thousand  to  four 
thousand  feet  high.  As  we  ascend  the  scenery  contin- 
ually increases  in  grandeur,  the  foliage  grows  more 
dense,  and  the  air  perceptibly  cooler.  The  gently- 
sloping  sides  of  the  valley  have  changed  to  lofty  preci- 
pices. We  mount  higher  and  higher,  over  a  good  road, 
passing  at  intervals  other  travelers. 

Before  us  is  a  group  of  Kanakas,  men  and  women, 
riding  their  horses  bareback  and  in  one  fashion.  Here 
are  some  Japanese  and  Chinamen,  also  en  route  for  the 
Pali. 

At  a  picturesque  turn  in  the  path  we  perceive  an 
artist  at  work  upon  his  canvss.  The  scene  grows  more 
and  more  beautiful  as  we  still  move  upward,  almost  on 
the  edge  of  a  steep  precipice.  Now  we  tie  the  horses 
and  leave  the  carriage  at  a  spot  protected  by  the  moun- 
tain from  the  strong  wind  which  never  ceases  in  this 
region.  Walking  several  hundred  feet,  at  a  sudden 
turn  we  come  to  the  very  edge  of  the  precipice.  The 
strong  iron  railing  is  a  necessary  protection  here,  for 
the  wind  is  furious,  threatening  to  sweep  everything 
before  it. 

The  natives  frequently  ride  over  this  bridle  path  and 
down  the  steep  mountain  side  to  the  plain  below. 

The  view  from  this  point  is  magnificent.  Lofty 
mountains  tower  far,  far  above  us  on  all  sides,  their 


So 


VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 


peaks,  covered  with  verdure,  lending  an  indescriable 
majesty  to  the  scene. 

Away  off  on  the  right  can  be  seen  the  Pacific  Ocean 
spreading  its  calm  surface  mile  upon  mile,  its  emerald 
coat  glistened  brightly  in  the  sun.  Along  the  coast 


Now  WE  TIE  THE  HORSES. 

white  foam  above  the  coral  reefs  indicates  shallow 
water. 

The  plains,  with  their  varied  hues  of  green  and 
brown,  in  light  and  shadow,  show  now  brilliant,  now 
softened  effects  of  richest  coloring. 

Here,  where  we  stand,  a  great  battle  was  fought  a 


PLANTATIONS    AND    MOUNTAINS.  8 1 

hundred  years  ago,  and  Kamehameha,  the  conqueror, 
drove  his  enemies  over  the  edge  of  this  frightful  preci- 
pice to  their  death. 

Far  off,  yet  almost  directly  opposite,  is  the  little 
rocky  island  of  Molokai,  with  steep  rugged  sides. 

We  gaze  around  us,  breathless  with  wonder,  and  too 
deeply  impressed  for  words.  The  wind,  roaring 
through  the  pass,  adds  to  the  feeling  of  awe  with  which 
we  are  inspired.  It  is  sometimes  even  more  violent, 
and  we  are  told  that  frequently  large  stones  from  the 
valley  are  lifted  by  it  with  such  force  that  they  are 
carried  to  the  top  of  this  pass. 

The  ledge  upon  which  we  are  standing  is  from  fif- 
teen to  eighteen  hundred  feet  above  the  plain. 

The  great  Pali  stands  majestic  and  defiant,  fearing 
neither  the  stormy  winds  nor  the  rushing  waters. 
With  royal  grace  it  rears  its  beauteous  head.  Yet  not 
always  has  it  presented  to  the  world  so  calm  a  front. 
Evidences  of  volcanic  explosions  are  in  the  rocky 
mountain  side,  and,  while  one  half  stands  in  semicir- 
cular form  the  other  half  has  sunk  out  of  view,  appear- 
ing as  if  cut  away  with  mathematical  precision. 

We  linger  long  among  these  most  wonderful  of  the 
Creator's  works.  At  length  we  return  to  the  carriage, 
and  are  soon  descending  the  picturesque  valley  of 
Nuuanu. 

I  take  many  photographs  of  the  mountains  and  the 
6 


82  VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

prospects  along  this  drive ;  but  what  can  art  do,  but 
give  one  a  faint  idea  of  the  grandeur  and  sublimity  of 
nature  in  her  loftiest  moods. 

A  story  is  told  here  of  two  ladies  and  the  Pali. 
While  staying  at  the  hotel  in  Honolulu  they  received 
an  invitation  to  the  Queen's  reception  at  the  palace. 


THE  GREAT  PALI  STANDS  MAJESTIC  AND  DEFIANT. 

As  evening  approached  they  ordered  a  carriage,  and 
wishing  to  air  their  French  they  directed  the  driver  to 
take  them  to  the  "  palais."  The  man,  astonished  at 
receiving  such  an  order  at  that  hour,  asked  if  he  under- 
stood aright,  and  the  command  was  repeated :  "  To  the 
palais." 


PLANTATIONS    AND    MOUNTAINS.  83 

They  set  out,  and  after  riding  a  long  time  the  ladies 
began  to  think  the  driver  had  either  misunderstood 
them  or  lost  his  way.  Signs  of  civilization  were  rap- 
idly disappearing.  As  they  entered  the  mountain  pass 
they  asked  him  if  he  knew  the  road.  He  replied,  by 
asking  in  his  turn,  if  they  wished  to  go  to  the  Pali. 
They  said  they  did.  So  on  they  went,  until  at  last  the 
Pali  was  reached — a  bleak  wilderness  at  that  hour. 
When  informed  that  they  had  arrived  at  the  Pali,  they 
were  amazed  and  alarmed,  and  asked  the  driver  where 
was  the  palace  of  the  queen  ?  To  which  he  answered, 
"  Not  here ;  this  is  the  Pali."  Angry  and  mortified, 
they  were  driven  back  to  the  hotel,  having  missed  the 
reception  at  the  palace. 

A  delightful  drive  is  to  the  Punch  Bowl,  and  along 
the  coast.  Ordering  a  carriage,  we  direct  the  driver  to 
take  us  to  the  summit  of  this  extinct  crater,  which  rises 
five  hundred  feet  above  the  valley.  Upon  reaching  this 
elevation,  we  have  a  fine  view  of  Diamond  Head,  also 
an  extinct  crater,  and  in  the  distance  of  the  lofty 
Waianae  Mountains,  with  a  pure  blue  sky  for  a  back- 
ground. From  another  point  we  can  see  Pearl  Harbor. 

At  our  feet  is  the  harbor  of  Honolulu,  with  steamers 
lying  at  anchor,  and  merchandise  of  all  kinds  awaiting 
shipment  to  foreign  lands,  piled  upon  the  piers,  which 
extend  far  into  the  sea.  We  have  also  a  beautiful  view 
of  the  city  of  Honolulu.  Descending,  we  drive  through 


84  VACATION   DAYS  IN  HAWAII  AND  JAPAN. 

the  bed  of  the  crater,  which  is  covered  with  a  dense 
growth  of  lowly  verdure. 

Many  native  houses  and  grass  huts  are  built  upon 
the  mountain  side.  Wishing  to  see  some  of  the  people 
in  their  homes,  we  direct  the  driver,  who  speaks  the 
Kanaka  language,  to  stop  before  some  of  these  dwell- 


A  DELIGHTFUL  DRIVE  is  TO  THE  PUNCH  BOWL. 

ings.  The  first  is  a  small  grass  hut,  whose  inhabitants 
I  ask  to  come  out  that  I  may  photograph  them.  They 
are  very  shy  at  first,  but  finally  an  old  man  and  a 
boy  pose  for  me  while  engaged  in  eating  poi.  In  ex- 
tending a  coin  to  the  man  to  repay  him  for  the  favor,  I 
discover  that  he  is  a  leper ;  his  face,  hands,  and  the  ex- 


PLANTATIONS    AND    MOUNTAINS. 


PLANTATIONS    AND    MOUNTAINS.  87 

posed  portions  of  his  body  are  covered  with  evidences 
of  this  loathsome  disease.  I  drop  the  money  into  his 
swollen  palm  and  turn  away. 

At  another  hut  the  family  is  preparing  for  a  feast, 
called  "  Poi  Dog."  The  Kanakas  frequently  have  these 
entertainments.  A  dog  is  penned  up  and  fattened  upon 
poi,  then  killed,  cooked,  and  served  much  as  we  serve  a 
young  pig  in  our  country. 

We  now  drive  along  the  beach,  passing  Diamond 
Head  and  Koko  Point.  Halting  at  a  retired  and  shady 
spot,  we  spread  leaves  upon  the  ground,  and  eat  our 
luncheon  sitting  upon  the  rocks. 

Then,  still  along  the  shore,  homeward.  By  this 
time  the  tide  is  coming  rapidly  in,  and  the  huge 
boulders  on  our  right  and  the  water  on  our  left  are  so 
close  together  that  at  times  the  horses  are  compelled  to 
wade  breast  high  through  the  surf.  We  have  a  very 
exciting  ride  for  about  two  miles.  Now  and  then  a 
wave  breaks  so  close  to  us  that  we  are  drenched  with 
spray. 

During  our  drive  we  pass  the  residences  of  many 
prominent  people,  among  them  the  cottages  of  Presi- 
dent Dole  and  the  ex-Queen  Liliuokalani.  Arriving 
home,  we  find  that  we  have  been  out  six  hours. 

Our  kind  friend,  Colonel  McF ,  invites  us,  with 

others,  to  a  crab-fishing  picnic.  Many  island  celeb- 
rities are  to  be  there,  and  we  anticipate  much  fun. 


88  VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN, 

Carriages  await  us  at  the  hotel  at  eleven  in  the 
morning. 

Driving  to  Kalihi,  a  distance  of  four  miles,  we  are 
hospitably  received  by  our  host  at  his  summer  resi- 
dence. 

Provided  with  fishing  tackle  and  raw  beef  for  bait  we 
all  repair  to  the  beach,  where  we  have  much  sport  and 
catch  some  fine  large  crabs.  We  then  return  to  the 
farm,  where  we  enjoy  an  al  fresco  dinner. 

The  rustic  table  under  the  trees  is  bountifully  laden 
with  choice  dishes,  such  as  roast  duck,  beefsteak,  bread 
fruit,  alligator  pears,  cakes,  and  beer.  To  crown  all, 
the  Chinese  cook  appears,  bearing  a  huge  dish  of  the 
crabs  we  have  caught,  prepared  for  dinner. 

The  cool  breeze  from  the  ocean  and  the  delightful, 
balmy  atmosphere,  with  just  enough  sun,  make  the 
meal  a  charming  success.  The  aspect  is  enchanting. 
On  our  right  rises  Mount  Tantalus,  two  thousand  feet 
above  us,  and  covered  with  verdure  to  its  highest 
point. 

Choice  cigars  finish  the  repast,  and  many  a  good 
story  is  told  as  we  recline  luxuriously  in  easy  chairs 
and  hammocks. 

The  sociability  of  the  residents  adds  greatly  to  the 
pleasure  of  the  tourist.  Long  will  I  remember  the 
crab  fishing  picnic  at  Kalihi. 

To-day  is  devoted  to  preparation  for  our  journey  to 


PLANTATIONS   AND   MOUNTAINS.  89 

Hilo  and  the  crater  of  Kilauea  on  the  island  of  Hawaii. 
The  distance  by  sea  is  about  two  hundred  miles.  We 
leave  to-inorrow  on  the  steamer  "  Kinau." 

We  have  a  pleasant  habit  of  spending  an  hour  after 
breakfast  on  the  porch  in  front  of  the  hotel,  where  are 
exposed  for  sale  various  specimens  of  the  handicraft  of 
the  natives  and  others. 

Bead-work,  baskets,  bags,  and  belts  made  of  the  seeds 
of  fruits  ;  also  lace  mats  are  offered  by  the  Portuguese. 
Fans  made  of  dried  grasses,  wooden  figures  carved  in 
primitive  style  with  a  jack-knife,  and  many  other 
curious  articles  may  be  bought  at  a  moderate  price. 


THE  HOUSE  OF  EVERLASTING  FIRE. 

Off  for  Hilo — Old  Neptune's  frolics — Views  en  voyage — Lanai — 
Landing  cargo — Temple  of  Haen — Niulii — Mountain  waterfalls — 
Loupahoehoe — Hilo — Unpleasant  bedfellows — Drive  to  the  crater — 
Flume  bridges — Native  jungles— Japanese  moving — Halfway  House — 
Volcano  Hotel — The  crater  of  Halemaumau — Kilauea — Mauna  Kea — 
Walk  to  the  crater— Lava  formations — The  House  of  Everlasting  Fire 
—Candle  tree— Bird's  nest  fern — Return  to  Hilo— American  circus— 
Cocoanut  Island— Kanaka  church— Native  bathers— Back  to  Honolulu. 

MR.  W ,  president  of  the  Wilder  L/ine  of  steam- 
ships, has  most  kindly  given  up  his  stateroom  to  us 
during  the  voyage.  This  is  only  one  of  many  favors 
extended  to  us  by  the  officers  of  this  company,  for 
which  we  will  ever  be  grateful. 

We  leave  the  Wilder  pier  at  10.30  on  a  bright  sunny 
morning. 

Many  friends  are  gathered  on  the  shore  to  see  us  off 
and  wish  us  a  safe  journey. 

We  pass  Diamond  Head  shortly  after  leaving  the 
harbor,  having  a  fine  view  of  the  picturesque  coast, 
with  its  luxuriant  foliage,  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer. 

The  Pacific,  while  placid  in  name,  is  capable  at  times 

of  showing  a  rough  and  unpleasant  disposition,  and 

this  proves  to  be  our  experience  in  the  early  part  of  the 

voyage.     We   begin   to  roll   considerably  as   we  pass 

90 


THE   HOUSE  OF  EVERLASTING  FIRE.  91 

through  the  Kaiwi  channel,  and  with  the  exception 
of  two  gentlemen  all  the  passengers  are  seasick.  In 
all  my  experience  at  sea  I  have  never  seen  the  ocean 
as  rough  as  in  this  channel. 

Bven  the  president  of  the  line  declares  that  he  has 
never  passed  through  anything  equal  to  this. 

The  islands  of  Molokai  and  Maui  loom  up 
majestically  before  us,  and  I  forget  my  sufferings  for  a 
moment  in  admiration  of  the  charming  picture.  The 
setting  sun  shows  a  golden  light  in  a  deep  purple  back- 
ground, and  the  waves  glisten  with  orange  and  violet 
reflections ;  now  a  rich  crimson  glow  spreads  over  all, 
which  gradually  fading,  leaves  our  memory  sole  pos- 
sessors of  a  scene  of  beauty  indelibly  impressed  upon 
its  tablets. 

We  cast  anchor  and  bob  up  and  down  in  midstream. 
We  can  see  the  old  town  of  Lahaina  upon  the  island 
of  Maui,  fully  a  mile  away.  Small  boats  are  let 
down  from  the  steamer's  side  to  convey  passengers  and 
freight  ashore.  While  this  is  being  accomplished  I 
lean  over  the  side  of  the  vessel,  at  the  suggestion  of 
Mr.  W-  — ,  to  observe  the  clearness  of  the  water,  and 
at  a  depth  of  sixty  feet  can  distinguish  shells  as  well 
as  fish.  I  cast  a  silver  coin  into  the  waves  and  watch  it 
zigzag  its  way  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  sea. 

The  row  boats,  having  landed  passengers  and  stores, 
are  hoisted  into  place,  and  again  we  are  moving  onward. 


92  VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

What  a  gale  !  The  sea  is  uncomfortably  restless, 
and  our  little  steamer  seems  anxious  to  perform  the 
undesirable  feat  of  standing  on  her  head. 

The  scenery  along  the  route  is  sublime.  Mr.  W 

invites  us  to  the  bridge  to  view  the  great  mountains  of 
Maui.  The  giant  Haleakala,  in  all  the  dignity  of  its 
ten  thousand  and  thirty-two  feet,  looks  wild  and  barren. 
Little  or  no  vegetation  clothes  its  topmost  peaks ;  but 
at  its  base  there  is  a  luxuriant  growth  of  tropical 
foliage.  Through  the  twilight  we  can  perceive  fields  of 
sugar-cane  and  little  white  cottages  dotted  here  and 
there,  with  the  tall  mountains  for  a  background.  The 
enchanting  scenes  that  pass  in  rapid  panorama  almost 
banish  the  headache  and  nausea. 

Here  is  "Olowalu,"  pleasant  valley,  well  deserving 
its  name.  The  green  fields  of  cane,  the  gently  rolling 
country  in  its  emerald  robe  would  be  a  veritable 
Arcadia,  were  it  not  for  the  occasional  appearance  of  a 
sugar  mill,  with  which  the  speculative  spirit  of  man  has 
seen  fit  to  mar  the  harmony  of  this  lovely  spot. 

We  are  informed  that  the  island  of  Lanai,  lying  be- 
fore us,  is  for  sale,. being  in  a  state  of  bankruptcy  It 
may  be  purchased  for  ninety  thousand  dollars  ;  it  has 
good  pasture  land  for  sheep  and  cattle. 

It  is  long  after  midnight  before  I  retire  to  my  state- 
room, leaving  reluctantly  these  lovely  pictures  of  sea 
and  mountain.  But  what  a  place  do  I  enter!  This  is 


THE  HOUSE  OF  EVERLASTING  FIRE.  93 

more  like  the  dwelling  of  a  cyclone  than  the  berth 
of  a  steamer.  Nearly  everything  in  the  room — books, 
grips,  tumblers,  what  not  ? — has  found  a  resting  place 
on  the  floor.  The  utmost  confusion  prevails. 

I  tie  myself  in  bed  and  yield  myself  up  to  the  possi- 
bilities of  slumber.  I  have  just  fallen  asleep,  when  I 
am  aroused  by  the  persistent  squealing  of  pigs.  Not 
understanding  the  necessity  for  such  sounds  at  this  un- 
seemly hour,  I  rise  and  make  my  way  to  the  deck,  where 
I  perceive  that  we  have  anchored  opposite  Makena, 
and  are  transferring  passengers  and  freight,  pigs, 
ashore. 

It  is  a  glorious  night !  The  moon  shining  on  the 
water  calls  forth  myriads  of  sparkling  diamonds.  Wind 
and  waves  have  subsided  considerably,  and,  although 
we  are  still  tossing  about,  it  is  not  impossible  to  sleep. 
The  steward  informs  me,  however,  that  we  may  expect 
another  "  shake  up  "  when  we  pass  through  the  Alen- 
uihaha  channel.  Merciful  heavens !  I  retire  to  bed 
with  dismal  visions  of  another  bone-rattling ! 

Bang !  Bang  !  Bang  ?  Now  a  dish  ;  now  a  glass 
crashing  on  the  floor  awakens  me.  And  such  tossing 
and  pitching  can  be  compared  only  to  a  cowboy  upon  a 
bucking  broncho,  and  a  spirited  one  at  that.  I  fall 
twice  from  my  berth,  and  only  by  strapping  myself  in 
can  I  save  myself  from  being  again  deposited  upon  the 
floor.  At  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  arrive  at 


94  VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

Mahukona,  the  first  landing  on  the  island  of  Hawaii, 
where  we  will  remain  three  hours,  while  freight  is  being 
conveyed  ashore. 

Mr.  W-  —  invites  us  to  land  and  breakfast  with 
himself  and  family  at  his  country  residence  close  by. 
The  boat  is  lowered  and  passengers  are  rowed  ashore 
by  natives. 

Upon  an  eminence  at  our  right  a  pretty  cottage  is 
perched,  surrounded  by  plenty  of  shade  trees.  Here 
we  receive  a  warm  welcome  and  a  good  breakfast. 

After  breakfast  I  walk  to  the  wharf  to  see  the  un- 
loading of  the  cargo.  As  before,  the  steamer  lies  a 
mile  from  shore,  and  the  fright  is  placed  in  boats  and 
rowed  to  its  destination,  large  timbers  being  thrown 
overboard  and  towed  to  the  land.  Live  cattle,  such  as 
steers  and  horses,  are  lowered  into  the  water  and  swim 
ashore. 

Mahukona  is  a  barren-looking  place,  although  in 
certain  sections  there  are  large  sugar  plantations.  It 
is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  from  Honolulu 
and  eighty  from  Hilo,  our  destination. 

With  the  good  wishes  of  our  hosts  we  say  farewell, 
and  our  steamer  goes  on  her  way. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Mahukona  we  see  upon  a 
bank  a  large  pile  of  stones,  and  we  are  told  that  it  is 
the  ruins  of  the  once  famous  temple  of  Haen,  built  by 
the  Goddess  Genii.  Many  human  sacrifices  were  made 


THE   HOUSE)   OF   EVERLASTING   FIRE. 


95 


within  its  walls  by  the  ancient  kings,  and  there  are 
numerous  traditions  relating  to  it.  One  is  that  the 
sacred  shrine  was  raised  by  the  goddess  in  a  single 
night. 

The  island  of  Hawaii  is  not  so  mountainous  as  Maui. 
There  is  much  excellent  pasture  here  and  cattle  ranches 


THESE  FLUMES  ARE  CARRIED  OVER  DEEP  VALLEYS. 

abound.     Numerous  herds  may  be  seen  grazing,  some 
of  them  numbering  hundreds  of  heads. 

This  is  also  a  sugar-cane  district,  and  here  are  large 
plantations  and  many  mills.  The  cane,  when  cut,  is 
conveyed  to  the  mills  by  means  of  troughs  or  flumes, 
into  which  water  is  forced.  These  flumes  are  carried 


96  VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

over  deep  valleys,  from  three  hundred  to  four  hundred 
feet  below,  before  reaching  the  mills. 

We  see  a  number  of  square  iuclosures,  of  small  size, 
surrounded  by  stone  walls,  long  since  in  ruins,  and 
are  informed  that  at  one  time  the  natives  lived  there ; 
but  so  many  of  them  died  that  the  remainder  deserted 
their  homes,  proving  that  the  first  attempts  at  civiliza- 
tion were  not  successful  among  the  aborigines.  The 
exquisite  scenery,  as  we  approach  the  Niulii  district, 
is  beyond  a  hasty  description.  I  have  taken  several 
photographs  of  the  beautiful  lofty  mountains  that  cast 
their  shadows  over  the  water,  and,  had  we  sailed  more 
smoothly,  would  attempt  some  sketches,  but  it  is  im- 
possible under  existing  conditions. 

As  we  advance  the  scenes  are  grander,  more  inspir- 
ing. The  mountains  tower  two  thousand  feet  from  the 
very  edge  of  the  sea,  while  in  the  background  rise  the 
peaks,  Kohala,  five  thousand  five  hundred  feet,  and 
Mauna  Kea,  thirteen  thousand  eight  hundred  feet. 
The  loftier  mountains  seem  to  be  guarding  their  lesser 
neighbors  in  the  foreground. 

I  have  no  words  adequate  to  these  wonderful  heights 
and  depths  and  lights  and  shadows  and  rich  and  soft- 
ened hues  of  tropical  wealth  and  bloom.  These  sum- 
mits, it  is  said,  have  never  been  trodden  by  foot  of 
man.  I  can  well  believe  this  statement,  as  they  are 
extremely  precipitous. 


THE  HOUSE  OF  EVERLASTING   FIRE.  97 

Although  covered  by  trees  and  other  vegetation  there 
are  no  wild  animals  upon  them.  The  gigantic  masses 
are  broken  here  and  there  by  deep,  mysterious  looking 
ravines  that  fill  one  with  awe.  Cascades  shoot  forth 
from  inner  heights  at  an  elevation  of  from  a  thousand 
to  fifteen  and  even  eighteen  hundred  feet,  dashing 
over  the  precipices  into  the  sea,  and  forming  innumer- 
able rainbows  in  the  glistening  sunlight. 

A  few  grass  huts  are  scattered  at  the  base  of  the 
mountains,  the  abodes  of  fishermen,  whose  little  boats 
are  their  only  means  of  communication  with  the  out- 
side world.  There  is  no  road  except  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  and  when  the  weather  is  bad  and  the  sea 
rough  they  are  frequently  unable  to  leave  their  homes 
for  many  weeks. 

Hawaii  is  quite  fertile  in  this  district,  as  we  see  many 
sugar  plantations  which  extend  from  the  shore  to  the 
woodlands. 

As  we  approach  Laupahoehoe  the  mountains  are 
smaller.  Here  we  land  some  passengers. 

We  are  now  only  twenty-one  miles  from  Hilo,  at 
which  place  we  hope  to  arrive  at  5.30  this  afternoon. 
The  country  here  is  wild  and  picturesque,  great  waves 
dashing  high  upon  a  rocky  beach. 

We  can  see  Hilo  in  the  distance,  a  small  insig- 
nificant looking  place,  of  tropical  appearance. 

At  last  we  make  our  final  halt,  the  boats  are  lowered 
7 


98  VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

for  the  last  time,  and  we  are  all  borne  safely  to  a  prim- 
itive wharf,  where  we  are  met  by  natives  and  driven  to 
the  Volcano  Hotel. 

We  are  well  received  by  "  mine  host,"  who  offers  us 
the  best  in  his  house,  which  is  as  poor  as  he  is  gen- 
erous. 

We  take  the  parlor,  in  which  a  bed  is  placed,  and 
with  a  small  pitcher  of  water  manage  a  tolerably  fair 
appearance  at  our  first  meal  on  shore,  which  is  supper. 

As  I  finish  the  day's  journal,  and  just  before  retir- 
ing for  the  night,  the  porch  is  surrounded  by  Kanakas, 
who  favor  us  with  native  songs,  accompanied  by  musi- 
cal instruments.  Their  voices  sound  as  though  some 
"  Brown's  Troches  "  would  not  be  injurious. 

I  retire  to  rest,  anticipating  a  good  sleep.  My  first 
impression  is  that  a  blanket  has  been  thrown  over  the 
backs  of  two  or  three  camels,  and  that  I  am  lying  on  it. 
Anything  more  uneven  than  these  springs  it  is  impos- 
sible to  imagine. 

We  have  also  many  unpleasant  bed-fellows,  such  as 
fleas  innumerable,  myriads  of  mosquitoes,  enormous 
spiders,  sociable  centipedes.  In  time  one  becomes 
accustomed  to  these  creatures,  which  are  quite  common 
to  the  sleeping-rooms  of  this  part  of  the  county.  The 
spiders  are  really  remarkable ;  when  standing,  their 
legs  are  from  four  to  six  inches  long.  They  are,  how- 
ever, harmless,  and  are  never  killed  by  the  natives,  as 


THE   HOUSE  OF  EVERLASTING   FIRE.  99 

they  are  great  destroyers  of  fleas  and  other  annoying 
insects.  Two  of  these  great  fellows  remain  quietly  in 
our  canopy  through  the  night,  doubtless  to  protect  us 
from  evils,  of  whose  existence  we  are  not  aware. 
Thank  heaven,  the  night  is  past !  But  it  has  left  many 
souvenirs  upon  our  bodies. 

After  breakfast  we  start  on'  our  thirty-mile  drive  to 
the  crater  of  Kilauea,  engaging  a  private  carriage  in 
preference  to  the  stage  which  runs  between  these 
points.  The  road,  composed  of  lava,  was  constructed 
by  the  Hawaiian  government  in  1894  at  a  cost  of  one 
hundred  thousand  dollars. 

Fields  of  sugar-cane  extend  for  miles  along  the  way 
on  either  side.  It  is  estimated  that  in  the  district  of 
Hilo  fifty  thousand  acres  are  devoted  to  this  product, 
half  of  it  being  cropped  each  year.  Formerly  the  cane 
was  hauled  to  the  mills  in  carts,  requiring  the  service  of 
thousands  of  mules  and  oxen.  Now  all  this  work  is 
accomplished  by  the  flumes,  many  of  which  are  from 
five  to  eight  miles  long,  frequently  crossing,  as  I  have 
already  said,  deep  and  wide  ravines.  One  of  the  longest 
and  highest  of  these  is  more  than  fifteen  hundred  feet 
long  and  from  two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  high.  Rain  is  so  abundant  in  Hilo  that  the  planters 
use  it  for  transporting  the  cane  through  the  flumes,  thus 
saving  the  cost  of  artesian  wells. 

It  is  said  that  in  Hawaii  one  must  be  prepared  for  a 


IOO          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

shower  at  any  moment.  We  find  this  to  be  true.  The 
natives  declare  that  it  rains  eight  days  in  every  week. 

We  are  now  in  a  dense  forest,  where  the  trees  meet 
overhead,  and  tropical  plants  of  every  description 
abound.  Graceful  ferns  spring  up  on  all  sides,  and 
vines,  bearing  brilliant-hued  flowers,  climb  the  trees  and 
festoon  the  branches  with  gay  wreaths.  Wild  oranges, 
bananas,  and  other  southern  fruits  gleam  through  the 
leaves,  and  strange  vegetation  thrusts  toward  us 
grotesque  shapes  and  peculiar  foliage.  Only  one  thing 
is  lacking  in  this  region  of  lavish  and  wondrous  growth. 
Scarcely  a  note  proclaims  the  presence  of  the  sweet 
musician  of  the  wood,  here,  where  one  would  expect  to 
find  the  feathered  songster  in  his  most  gorgeous 
plumage.  The  birds  seem  to  be  supplanted  by  the 
enormous  spiders  which  abound  everywhere. 

The  traveler  in  the  States  cannot  fail  to  notice  the 
dozens  of  birds  always  perched  upon  the  telegraph 
wires.  Here  hundreds  of  spiders,  of  every  size,  may  be 
seen  hanging  to  the  wires  anxiously  watching  for  their 
prey. 

Several  coffee  plantations  appear  on  the  way.  The 
trees  producing  this  berry  are  small  and  pretty.  Now 
follows  a  stretch  of  uncultivated  land,  covered  with 
ferns  and  underbrush.  Here  and  there  an  enterprising 
settler  has  cleared  away  a  few  acres  and  built  himself  a 
cozy  little  cottage. 


THE  HOUSE  OF  EVERLASTING  FIRE.  IOI 

We  meet  many  Japanese  men  and  women  on  the 
road,  the  men  carrying  all  their  household  goods  upon 
their  backs.  A  long  pole  is  balanced  upon  the  shoul- 
ders, and  the  goods  suspended  from  the  ends.  One 
passes  us,  bearing  thus  his  cooking  utensils,  bed  and 
bedding,  and  provisions.  With  this  load  he  has  one 
free  hand,  devoted  to  no  better  purpose  than  holding  a 
cigar,  which  seems  to  afford  him  much  pleasure. 

We  are  not  far  enough  from  civilization  to  be  out  of 
reach  of  the  bicycle,  for  a  tandem  has  just  passed  us, 
with  two  riders,  on  their  way  to  the  crater  Kilauea. 
Four  times  we  meet  them,  and  each  time  they  call  out 
to  us  that  they  have  "  punctured  their  tires." 

Another  tropical  jungle,  miles  in  extent,  from  which 
we  emerge  into  a  picturesque  region,  with  the  great 
giants  Manna  Kea  and  Mauua  Loa  looking  down  upon 
us.  We  pass  few  residences. 

It  is  now  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  we  have 
just  reached  the  Halfway  House  at  Olaa,  where  we 
change  horses  and  lunch,  stopping  a  half-hour.  We 
have  traveled  sixteen  miles  since  leaving  Hilo. 

On  the  road  again,  passing  innumerable  fern  hedges 
enclosing  the  small  lawns  of  diminutive  cottages. 
Another  forest,  so  dense  that  it  seems  almost  impos- 
sible to  penetrate  it.  Wild  ferns  abound  in  an  endless 
variety ;  also  the  wild  orange,  banana,  and  guava. 

As  the  soil  here  is  composed  of  lava,  there  is  but 


102          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

little  vegetation,  and  the  remainder  of  the  drive  is  with- 
out much  interest.  At  2.30  P.  M.  we  arrive  at  the  Vol- 
cano Hotel,  which  is  situated  on  an  elevation  of  four 
thousand  feet  and  forty  feet  above  sea-level,  and  three 
miles  and  a  half  from  the  crater  of  Halemaumau. 
It  is  morning,  and  I  sit  upon  the  porch  of  the  hotel 


ANOTHER  FOREST,  so  DENSE  THAT  IT  SEEMS  IMPOSSIBLE  TO  PENETRATE  IT. 

gazing  at  the  scene  before  me.  On  the  west  is  the  lofty 
Mauna  Loa,  with  its  highest  point  extending  far  above 
the  clouds  that  circle  about  its  head.  This  mountain 
is  thirteen  thousand  six  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet 
high,  and  is  the  second  in  height  upon  the  islands.  It 
can  be  ascended  on  foot,  but  this  is  rarely  attempted. 


THE   HOUSE  OF   EVERLASTING   FIRE. 


103 


Upon  its  summit  is  the  inactive  crater  Mokuavveoweo, 
which  was  last  in  operation  April  24th,  1896.  On  the 
side  of  the  mountain,  four  thousand  feet  above  sea  level, 
are  the  craters  Kilauea  and  Halemaumau,  the  former 
inactive,  the  latter  in  operation. 

From  the  rear  of  the  hotel  can  be  seen  Mauna  Kea, 


OFF  IN  THE  DISTANCE  CAN  BE  SEEN   SMOKE  ARISING  FROM  THE 
CRATER   HALEMAUMAU. 

the  highest  mountain  upon  the  Hawaiian  group.  It 
rises  heavenward  thirteen  thousand  eight  hundred  and 
five  feet. 

Off  in  the  distance,  some  three  miles,  looking  over 
the    great  lava   beds    of  the   crater    Kilauea,  can    be 


104          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

seen  smoke  rising  from  the  crater  Halemaumau. 
On  first  appearance,  and  in  looking  at  it  from  the 
porch  of  the  hotel,  one  is  apt  to  form  a  very 
poor  estimate  of  the  grandeur  of  this  crater,  and 
like  many  of  nature's  wonders,  the  tourist  feels 
disappointed,  after  the  long  and  fatiguing  journey 
from  Honolulu  to  Hilo,  to  witness  the  greatest  of 
all  active  craters. 

It  is  well  to  make  a  brief  detail  of  this  crater,  Hale- 
maumau. On  December  yth,  1894,  there  were  three 
lakes  in  action  in  this  crater,  and  upon  the  above  night 
these  three  lakes  united,  and  fell  to  a  depth  of  six  hun- 
dred feet.  The  crater  then  became  inactive  until  July 
8th,  1896,  at  which  time  a  roaring  was  heard,  and  the 
first  notice  of  the  crater  being  again  active  was  July 
nth,  1896.  The  crater  is,  say,  five  hundred  feet  deep 
and  covers  an  area  of  three  hundred  feet  in  diameter, 
and  is  located  in  the  great  lava  beds  of  the  crater  Kil- 
auea ;  this  latter  crater  covers  an  estimated  area  of  nine 
miles  in  circumference. 

At  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  provided  with  stout 
walking-sticks,  heavy  shoes  to  protect  our  feet  from  the 
sharp  pojnts  of  lava,  and  waterproofs  for  the  beating 
rain,  we  start  for  the  crater.  Some  of  the  ladies  use 
the  small  bony  native  horses  for  this  trip.  They  are 
obliged  to  ride  on  men's  saddles,  as  no  others  are  to  be 
had  in  this  out-of-the-way  place. 


THE   HOUSE  OF   EVERLASTING   FIRE.  105 

With  guides  at  the  front  and  rear  of  our  party,  we 
follow  a  narrow  serpentine  path,  in  Indian  file,  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  when  we  are  within  a  few  steps 
of  the  great  lava  bed  of  the  crater  Kilauea. 

We  tread  cautiously  upon  this  cold,  black  lava. 
What  a  sea  of  it  stretches  out  before  us !  The  path  is 


ONE  OF  THESE  BUBBLES,  BREAKING  UNDER  MY  FEET,  GIVES  ME 
A  TERRIBLE  FRIGHT. 

marked  by  piles  of  stones,  two  or  three  high,  for 
there  are  many  dangerous  places  into  which  we  might 
stray.  On  either  side  of  us  are  deep  seams,  varying 
from  ten  to  twenty  feet  in  depth.  Even  with  the  great- 
est care,  one  now  and  then  treads  upon  a  great  bubble, 


106          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

whose  thiii  crust  breaks,  and  a  fall  of  two  or  three  feet 
is  the  consequence. 

One  of  these  bubbles,  breaking  under  my  feet,  gives 
me  a  terrible  fright.  For  a  second  niy  heart  is  in  my 
mouth  and  my  hair  on  end,  for  I  know  not  where  the 
fall  will  leave  me. 

Our  walk  over  this  plain  is  weird  and  silent,  a  hol- 
low echo  now  and  then  warning  us  to  tread  more 
lightly  or  step  aside  upon  a  less  aerial  formation. 

Many  and  wonderful  are  the  shapes  into  which  the 
lava  has  been  forced.  Here  are  great  waves,  with  curl- 
ing tops,  apparently  ready  to  break  and  crash  against 
each  other;  here  huge  masses  of  rope  lava,  woven 
with  more  than  human  skill,  and  perfect  to  a  fibre. 
No  life  is  visible  upon  this  dreary  sea,  save  here  and 
there  an  isolated  fern,  peeping  out  from  a  cold,  black 
crevice,  nods  to  us,  as  if  gladly  welcoming  human 
visitors. 

We  push  on  and  on  with  unfaltering  steps,  fearing 
even  to  pause,  lest  a  crash  ensue,  and  we  be  cast  into 
eternity. 

There  is  a  long,  deep  fissure  on  our  right,  only  a  few 
steps  from  us.  It  is  so  wide  and  deep  that  a  strong 
bridge  has  been  placed  over  it.  Steam  puffs  out  of  the 
numerous  apertures,  with  a  noise  like  that  of  an  escape 
valve,  filling  the  air  with  sulphurous  odor.  The  heat 
is  also  perceptible  through  these  openings.  Night  has 


THE   HOUSE  OF   EVERLASTING   FIRE.  107 

fallen,  and  now  the  guides  stop  our  party  and  provide 
each  person  with  a  lamp.  We  halt  again  at  a  corral 
made  of  lava  stone,  where  the  ladies  dismount,  and  the 
horses  are  led  within  and  tied.  From  this  point,  a 
distance  of  about  half  a  mile,  all  must  go  afoot. 

The  heat  from  the  crater  is  now  oppressive,  and  we 
are  compelled  to  remove  our  waterproofs.     At  last  the 


HUGE  MASSES  OF  ROPE  LAVA,  WOVEN  WITH  MORE  THAN  HVMAN  SKILL. 

guides  tell  us  that  we  are  near  the  crater.  Great 
columns  of  smoke  are  seen  ascending  hundreds  of  feet, 
a  red  glare  flames  up  against  the  dark  blue  of  the  sky, 
and  a  low,  deep  rumbling  falls  upon  our  ears. 

One   is   reminded   of  a   scene    in    the    "  Inferno." 


108          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

Louder  and  louder  grows  the  rumbling  noise,  till  the 
lava  fairly  roars  in  its  fiery  churn  below.  It  is  an 
awful  scene !  Darkness  is  everywhere,  save  where  the 
"  House  of  Everlasting  Fire "  sends  forth  its  vivid 
illuminations. 

As  we  draw  nearer  to  the  edge  of  the  crater,  our 
hearts  beat  more  and  more  quickly.  Now  we  are  so 
close  that  great  care  is  necessary  to  avoid  slipping,  or, 
by  a  careless  movement,  breaking  the  ledge  on  which 
we  stand,  and  thus  being  all  precipitated  together  into 
the  fiery  abyss.  We  seem  like  pilgrims  at  a  shrine,  as 
together  we  take  our  first  look  into  the  crater. 

Is  it  possible  to  do  justice  to  the  grand  spectacle  ? 

With  a  temperature,  estimated  at  2,000  degrees,  the 
molten  lava  hisses  and  tosses  to  and  fro,  sometimes 
assuming  the  form  of  huge  billows  whirling  and  dash- 
ing against  each  other  in  their  mad  rush  back  to  the 
centre,  at  others  pyramids  and  fiery  fountains  dart  up- 
ward thirty  or  forty  feet.  There  are  intervals  when 
the  tumult  ceases,  and  silence  and  darkness  reign 
supreme.  Then,  as  if  by  magic,  the  hot  lava  suddenly 
belches  forth,  waves  roll  upward,  trying  to  outdo  each 
other,  fountains  fling  their  fiery  spray  high  in  the  air, 
clouds  of  smoke  arise  from  the  pit,  and  all  is  again 
aglow  with  crimson  flame,  while  the  roar  grows  more 
terrible  every  minute. 

We  gaze   upon  the  scene  in  awed   silence,  almost 


THE  HOUSE  OF   EVERLASTING   FIRE.  109 

expecting  an  irresistible  invitation  from  his  sardonic 
majesty  to  take  part  in  this  royal  festival. 

When  we  return  to  the  hotel,  some  three  hours  later, 
and  our  excited  brains  are  beginning  to  cool,  we  all 
agree  that  we  have  seen  one  of  the  wonders  of  the 
world,  and  that  the  reality  has  far  exceeded  the  antici- 
pation in  our  visit  to  Halemaumau,  "  The  House  of 
Everlasting  Fire." 

We  spend  a  few  days  visiting  places  of  interest 
around  the  hotel,  then  return  to  Hilo. 

I  cannot  dwell  too  often  upon  the  delights  of  these 
forests.  Here  we  see  the  Kukui,  or  Candle  tree.  The  ker- 
nel from  the  nut  of  this  tree  is  burned  to  give  light.  The 
natives  also  polish  the  nuts,  and  string  them  as  beads. 
The  ferns  here  grow  to  a  height  of  twenty  and  thirty 
feet.  The  jungle  is  filled  with  a  species  of  fern  called 
Bird's  Nest,  which  takes  its  name  from  the  fact  that  it 
grows  from  the  juncture  of  the  bough  with  the  tree, 
and  resembles  a  bird's  nest  or  a  pot  of  ferns.  The  bark 
of  the  fern  is  six  to  eight  inches  thick,  and  is  fre- 
quently cut  into  long  strips,  and  used  for  making  steps, 
and  paving  the  private  paths  of  the  residents.  The 
porous  nature  of  the  wood  causes  it  to  absorb  water, 
and  renders  it  soft  and  spongy  under  the  feet.  The 
atmosphere  of  the  forest  is  like  that  of  a  hothouse : 
there  is  much  moisture  and  the  air  is  filled  with  aromatic 
odors. 


HO          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

We  arrive  at  Hilo  without  eveut. 

This  evening,  hearing  that  an  "American  Circus 
Company  "  is  to  give  a  performance  in  the  town,  I  take 
advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  observe  the  native  ele- 
ment that  will  surely  gather  there.  I  enter  the  canvas 
tent  at  8  o'clock,  and  receive  a  cordial  greeting  from 
the  proprietor,  who  is  one  of  my  countrymen,  and  who 
is  at  the  door  collecting  the  tickets.  He  bids  me  pass 
on,  free  of  charge,  so  I  climb  to  the  top  row  of  seats, 
and  wait  till  "  the  band  begins  to  play." 

Here  is  the  usual  queer,  but  happy  mixture  of  the 
nationalities  usually  found  in  the  islands :  Japanese, 
Portuguese,  Chinese,  residents  and  natives. 

Among  the  Kanakas  are  many  women,  young  and 
old,  smoking  their  pipes.  The  elite  of  the  assembly 
are  seated  upon  about  thirty  chairs,  for  which  they 
have  the  privilege  of  paying  a  higher  price  than  the 
others.  An  hour  of  the  entertainment  is  as  much  as  I 
can  stand,  and  I  surprise  my  friends  on  the  porch  of 
the  hotel  by  my  premature  appearance  among  them. 

After  a  restless  night  I  find  that  Sunday  is  to  be 
spent  driving  in  a  comfortable  carriage  to  places  of  in- 
terest in  the  neighborhood. 

Going  in  the  direction  of  Cocoanut  Island  we  have  a 
fine  view  of  the  town  of  Hilo,  which  is  snugly  situated 
between  her  giant  sentinels,  Mauna  Loa  and  Mauna 
Kea.  On  the  first  of  these  I  can  see  plainly  a  barren, 


THE    HOUSE   OF   EVERLASTING    FIRE. 


Hi 


black  streak  ruuniiig  from  the  summit  to  within  a  mile 
of  the  city.  This  was  caused  by  the  flow  of  burning 
lava,  thrown  from  the  crater  of  the  mountain  in  1881, 
which  nearly  destroyed  Hilo.  After  an  hour's  drive 
we  stop  and  attend  a  native  church  service.  The 
minister,  a  half-caste,  speaks  earnestly  and  fluently, 


THE  LOVELY  AND  PICTURESQUE  COCOANUT  ISLAND. 

of  course  in  the  Kanaka  tongue.  After  lunch  we  visit 
the  lovely  and  picturesque  Cocoanut  Island,  where  we 
are  surprised  to  see  native  women  bathing  in  the 
harbor,  utterly  devoid  of  clothing.  It  is,  however,  a 
common  thing  for  both  men  and  women  in  this  country 
to  bathe  thus. 


112          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

The  following  morning  we  leave  Hilo,  amid  cheers 
and  farewells  from  friends  and  acquaintances  assembled 
on  the  shore  to  see  the  steamer  "  Kinau  "  depart. 

In  consequence  of  a  comparatively  smooth  sea  and 
a  heavy  cargo,  our  return  voyage  is  a  delightful  one. 
The  weather  is,  with  few  exceptions,  charming.  We 
pass  the  lofty  cliffs  of  Hamaktia,  with  their  numerous 
water-falls,  and  the  charming  valleys  of  Waimanu 
and  Waipio,  and  after  stopping  at  Mahukona,  to  land 
and  receive  freight,  we  bid  a  long  farewell  to  the  beauti- 
ful and  romantic  island  of  Hawaii. 

We  have  a  rough  sea,  crossing  the  channel.  As  we 
approach  Lahaino,  on  the  Island  of  Maui,  the  setting 
sun  casts  a  glow  of  wonderful  beauty  over  the  scene. 
At  this  station  a  native  brings  some  green  cocoanuts 
on  board  the  steamer;  I  partake  of  them,  and  find 
them  quite  palatable. 

After  an  uneventful  passage,  we  anchor  at  Honolulu 
on  schedule  time,  having  been  away  on  our  trip  just  a 
week. 


FIRST  IMPRESSION  OF  JAPAN. 

Departure  from  Honolulu— The  steamship  "China" — Steerage  pas- 
sengers—Punkahas — Morning  swim — Birds'  Island — Collecting  fares — 
Chinese  gamblers— Letters  of  introduction— Chopsticks — Yokohama 
harbor — Chinese  merchants — Japanese  guide — Streets  of  Yokohama- 
Japanese  theatre— The  Ishampooer — A  Jinrikisha  ride— Japanese  fu- 
neral—Mississippi Bay— Negishi— Tea  house  of  Tsukimikan. 

As  we  expect  to  sail  for  Yokohama,  Japan,  on  the 
sixth  of  August,  on  the  steamship  "  China,"  we  spend 
the  fifth  in  packing  and  making  such  purchases  as  may 
add  to  our  comfort  during  the  vogage  of  twelve  days 
before  us. 

We  rise  bright  and  early  on  the  day  of  sailing,  and 
see  upon  the  blackboard  of  the  hotel  that  our  steamer 
has  arrived  from  San  Francisco,  and  will  leave  for 
Yokohama  at  four  o'clock  this  afternoon. 

We  are  delighted  with  the  appearance  of  the  vessel. 
The  Captain  is  a  fine  gentleman  of  magnificent  phy- 
sique, genial  and  kind,  and  master  of  his  craft.  The 
smiling  faces  of  the  first  officer  and  purser  make  us 
feel  at  home,  and  with  good  friends. 

And  now  we  must  say  farewell  to  dear  Honolulu  and 
the  kind  friends  who  have  done  so  much  to  make  our 
stay  here  pleasant.  They  load  us  with  sweet-scented 
8  113 


114          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

"  leis,"  which  are  placed  around  our  heads  and  upon 
our  necks  and  shoulders.  It  is  a  lovely  send-off !  We 
are  sorry  to  part  with  them,  and  feel  that  although  we 
have  been  only  three  weeks  on  the  islands,  we  have 
made  true  and  lasting  friends. 

At  four  o'clock  the  great  propeller  begins  to  agitate 
the  water,  and  slowly  and  silently  we  leave  behind  us 
the  ever  beautiful  land,  so  often  and  justly  entitled 
"  the  Paradise  of  the  Pacific." 

Our  steamer  is  a  fine  one  in  every  respect,  elegantly 
modeled,  graceful  and  powerful.  Her  length  is  four 
hundred  and  sixty-five  feet ;  drawing,  when  laden, 
twenty-six  and  one-half  feet  of  water.  Her  beam  amid- 
ship  measures  forty-nine  feet  nine  inches, her  tonnage  is 
five  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty  and  her  estimated 
cost  one  million  dollars. 

Order  and  cleanliness  are  everywhere  manifest.  The 
crew  numbers  one  hundred  and  sixty-three,  and  is  com- 
posed of  thirty-four  whites  and  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
nine  Chinamen. 

One  can  form  an  idea  of  her  size,  when  I  state  that 
sixteen  times  around  her  deck  are  equal  to  a  mile.  With 
the  large  white  awnings  to  protect  us  from  the  heat  of 
the  sun  and  the  cinders  arid  smoke  from  the  stack,  we 
may  in  perfect  comfort  enjoy  the  delightful  sea  air  and 
ocean  view. 

Glancing  from  our  upper  deck  to  the  one  below,  we 


FIRST    IMPRESSION    OF  JAPAN.  115 

perceive  many  of  the  steerage  passengers  eating  their 
supper  of  rice,  meat,  and  pickles.  What  adepts  they 
are  with  their  chopsticks !  There  are  a  few  Chinese 
women  and  children  among  them.  The  children  are 
cunning  little  tots,  like  the  Chinese  dolls  we  see  in 
America.  While  we  are  observing  these  interesting 
people,  the  Captain  joins  us,  and  tells  me  that  if  I 
wish  to  take  a  swim  in  a  tank  sixteen  feet  long,  by  ten 
wide,  and  about  six  feet  deep,  I  can  do  so  in  water 
drawn  from  the  ocean.  At  first  I  think  he  is  joking, 
but  he  shows  me  a  huge  canvas  on  the  lower  deck 
suspended  from  the  rigging.  "  This,"  he  says,  "  is 
filled  every  morning  at  five  o'clock.  A  constant 
stream  of  water  is  pumped  into  the  tank,  and  those 
of  the  cabin  passengers  who  wish  may  take  a  swim." 
I  tell  him  that  I  will  gladly  avail  myself  of  this  privi- 
lege. 

There  are  many  prominent  persons  on  board,  and  as 
we  sit  at  the  Captain's  table,  we  have  an  opportunity  to 
make  their  acquaintance.  We  may  literally  say  that 
we  sit  at  the  table  of  fortune,  fame,  and  beauty. 

The  two  Chinamen  pulling  at  the  ropes  which  move 
the  long  silken  punkahas  have  an  Oriental  effect,  and 
this  Eastern  custom  give  us  always  a  cool  breeze  in  the 
dining-room. 

The  days  come  and  go  without  event,  as  usual  on 
shipboard. 


Il6          VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

At  half-past  five  this  morning  I  am  awakened  by  a 
tapping  on  my  stateroom  door.  Now  for  a  dive  in  the 
great  sea-water  tank. 

Putting  on  a  Japanese  kimono,  I  repair  to  the  deck, 
where  I  find  the  Captain  enjoying  a  swim.  Mounting 
to  the  top  of  the  tank,  by  means  of  a  small  ladder,  I  dive 
into  water  fully  six  feet  deep.  Can  anything  be  more 
delightful  and  exhilarating  than  this  ?  After  a  half- 
hour's  swim,  I  return  to  my  stateroom  fully  repaid  for 
rising  so  early. 

After  meals  we  generally  sit  upon  the  spacious 
promenade  deck,  engaged  in  conversation,  cards  or 
other  games. 

Here  are  the  pretty  flying-fish  again  surrounding  us, 
and  rising  sometimes  many  feet  above  the  water. 

Off  on  the  horizon,  Birds'  Island  is  pointed  out 
to  us.  As  we  approach  it  we  can,  with  the  aid  of  the 
glasses,  see  thousands  of  gulls  and  other  birds  resting 
upon  this  massive  rock.  We  are  now  abreast  of  it. 
The  gigantic  rock,  bearing  no  other  life  than  that  of 
the  birds  which  make  it  their  home,  and  rising  several 
hundred  feet  out  of  the  water,  looks  black  and  dreary. 
But  in  the  morning,  when  the  sun  is  rising,  and  this 
rugged  pile  is  aglow  with  the  brilliant  reflections  of  a 
rose-tinted  sky,  with  the  glistening  colors  of  the  ocean 
around  it,  the  scene  is  grandly  beautiful.  The  constant 
beating  of  the  waves  has  worn  caves  at  the  base  of  the 


FIRST   IMPRESSION   OF  JAPAN. 

rock.  In  many  places  we  can  see  quite  through  its 
foundation. 

Saturday,  August  8th. — Shortly  after  breakfast  we 
sail  close  to  Gardiner  Rock,  an  isolated  region,  un- 
inhabited, unsightly,  and  desolate. 

Our  attention  has  just  been  drawn  to  the  forward 
lower  deck,  where,  at  the  entrance  to  the  hold,  the 
purser  and  his  assistants  stand,  collecting  the  tickets 
of  the  steerage  passengers. 

They  pass  down  the  hold  in  single  file,  handing  up 
their  tickets  as  they  go  by.  The  occasion  seems  to 
afford  them  much  amusement,  judging  by  their  broad 
smiles  and  loud  laughter. 

When  they  return  to  the  deck  they  again  spread  out 
their  small  squares  of  matting,  gathered  into  groups 
of  eight  and  ten,  and  settle  down  to  the  universal  game 
of  "  poker,"  played  with  dominoes.  The  Chinese  are 
great  gamblers.  It  is  interesting  to  observe  a  party  of 
players,  earnestly  engaged,  with  a  crowd  of  their 
countrymen  around  them,  watching  their  movements. 
They  play  all  day  long,  never  seeming  to  tire  or  lose 
interest. 

The  evenings  are  devoted  by  the  cabin  passengers 
to  music,  both  vocal  and  instrumental,  and  playing 
cards.  We  are  like  a  large  congenial  family. 

My  first  lesson  in  chopsticks  is  given  by  a  lady  who 
resides  in  Japan.  It  is  awkward  work,  and  would,  I 


Il8          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII  AND  JAPAN. 

think,  be  very  trying,  if  one  were  hungry,  to  depend 
upon  such  a  slow  means  of  conveying  the  food  to  the 
mouth.  For  practice,  and  to  amuse  myself,  I  persevere, 
and  can  soon  pick  up  articles  of  food  quite  readily.  I 
would  not,  however,  recommend  this  custom  to  any 
one  who  wishes  to  enjoy  his  meals. 

I  cannot  distinguish  a  living  thing  upon  the  great 
space  of  water  around  me.  No  flying  fish,  gulls  or 
other  birds  are  visible.  All  is  calm,  placid,  silent,  rest- 
ful. We  have  not  seen  a  vessel  since  leaving  Honolulu. 
I  think  of  the  unknown  world  over  which  we  are  sailing, 
with  such  apparent  ease  and  safety;  of  the  three  thousand 
seven  hundred  fathoms  (twenty-two  thousand  two  hun- 
dred feet)  of  water,  the  mountains  and  deep  valleys,  the 
caves,  the  wondrous  vegetable  growths  and  the  myriads 
of  living  creatures,  whose  homes  are  in  the  sea,  all 
hidden  from  our  sight. 

We  hope  to  arrive  at  Yokohama  to-morrow  morning 
at  half-past  six  o'clock  and  eat  our  breakfast  at  the 
Grand  Hotel. 

What  joy  to  think  of  reposing  blissfully  on  land 
once  more,  with  this  monotonous  ocean  travel,  for  a 
time  at  least,  ended. 

The  sunset  is  such  as  to  make  an  artist  long  to  have 
his  sketch  block  on  his  knee,  and  his  brush  in  hand, 
to  perpetuate,  if  possible,  the  scene  before  him. 

The  sun  is  low  on  the  horizon,  casting  in  its  descent 


FIRST   IMPRESSION   OF  JAPAN.  119 

a  brilliant  glow  over  the  heavens.  The  surface  of  the 
water  responds  with  crimson  light,  and  for  the  first  time 
we  see  the  land.  The  highest  point  of  the  great  Fuji- 
yama rises  to  an  altitude  of  more  than  thirteen  thousand 
feet,  against  a  background  of  illuminated  clouds.  As 
we  gaze  upon  the  magnificent  scene,  the  Captain  ap- 
proaches and  asks  how  far  we  suppose  we  are  from 
Fuji  ?  Various  guesses  are  made.  Some  say  thirty  miles, 
some  fifty.  I  wishing  to  overstate,  boldly  declare  the 
distance  to  be  seventy  miles.  We  are  informed  that  we 
are  one  hundred  and  fifty-seven  miles  from  the  moun- 
tain. So  deceptive  are  distances  at  sea.  But  when  one 
considers  the  height  of  Fuji,  he  ceases  to  wonder. 

This  is  our  last  dinner  on  shipboard,  and,  according 
to  custom,  the  "  Captain's  dinner."  Toasts,  speeches, 
and  the  usual  merriment  are  its  accompaniments.  After 
a  couple  of  hours  of  this  entertainment  we  retire  to  our 
staterooms  to  finish  packing.  As  the  night  advances, 
and  all  is  quiet,  I  sit  up  in  my  berth  and  thrust  my 
head  through  the  port-hole  to  see  what  I  can  of  Japan, 
and  whether  we  are  near  the  coast.  Yes,  about  two 
miles  away  lies  the  land,  and  now  and  then  I  can  see 
lights,  but  the  scene  is  undistinguishable,  and  the  night 
dark  and  chilly.  When  I  step  on  deck  in  the  morning, 
I  find  that  we  are  at  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Yokohama, 
and  I  have  my  first  view  of  Japan,  with  the  rain  coming 
down  in  torrents,  and  everything  wet  and  disagreeable. 


I2O         VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 


There  are  about  a  hundred  sampans,  or  shore  boats, 
around  the  steamer ;  they  are  rowed  by  one  or  two  oars- 
men, who,  by  hideous  yells,  make  known  their  mission, 
which  is  to  carry  baggage  or  steerage  passengers  to  the 
shore.  Many  accept,  at  a  small  cost,  rather  than  wait 
for  the  steamer's  barge.  The  hotel  launch  lies  beside 


HARBOR  OF  YOKOHAMA,  JAPAN'. 

the  "  China,"  and  when  we  have  said  farewell   to  our 
friends,  we  step  upon  it  and  steam  to  the  wharf. 

The  hotel  porter  inquires  if  we  wish  jinrikishas  to 
take  us  to  the  Grand  Hotel  ?  I  feel  like  saying  :  "  Of 
course!  that  is  what  we  came  to  Japan  for,"  but  instead, 
meekly  answer  "  yes."  Upon  which  he  calls  three 


FIRST   IMPRESSION   OF  JAPAN.  121 

from  about  fifty  jinrikishas  that  are  waiting  for  passen- 
gers. Immediately  they  are  before  us  with  their  bearers. 
We  take  our  places  in  two,  the  third  is  filled  with  our 
luggage.  Off  we  go  at  a  dog  trot,  in  Indian  file. 

It  is  a  novel  situation  !  A  short  ride  brings  us  to 
the  hotel,  where  the  smiling  manager  informs  us  that 
he  has  awaiting  us  a  fine  large  room,  facing  the  bay.  I 
wonder  at  this,  having  sent  him  no  word.  Upon 
inquiry,  we  learn  that  a  steamer  friend,  a  resident  of 
Yokohama,  has  preceded  us  in  his  yacht,  and  engaged 
the  room.  And  kindness  like  this  is  manifested  towards 
us  during  the  whole  of  our  sojourn  in  Japan.  We  are 
met  by  a  good  word  or  deed  at  every  turn. 

We  proceed  to  our  room,  and  are  preparing  for  break- 
fast in  the  large  saloon,  when  a  gentle  rap  on  the  door 
is  heard.  I  open  it,  and  there  stands  a  Chinese  tailor, 
Mr.  Ah  Sing,  with  samples  of  goods  in  his  hands,  and 
asks  if  we  do  not  want  some  clothing? 

Glancing  hastily  at  his  samples  I  tell  him  to  call 
again,  as  we  have  just  arrived,  and  do  not  yet  know 
what  we  will  require. 

We  flatter  ourselves  upon  having  easily  disposed  of 
this  polite  merchant,  but  no  sooner  is  the  door  closed, 
than  another  tap  is  heard.  "  Come  in !"  I  cry.  "  Oh, 
good  morning!"  Here  stands  another  tailor,  with  his 
arms  full  of  clothing  of  all  styles,  and  with  smiling 
face  solicits  our  order.  We  repeat  our  previous  answer 


122 


VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 


and  Mr.  Chang  Chou  retires.  Then  taps  and  taps.  We 
open  to  a  number  of  them  :  Nan  Sing,  then  Aha  Sing, 
and  many  others.  The  monotony  is  broken  only  by 
the  appearance  of  a  Japanese  gentleman.  No  samples 
or  other  wares  bedeck  his  person.  I  wonder  what 
lie  can  want !  Perhaps  he  is  an  undertaker,  and 


THE  GRAND  HOTEL,  YOKOHAMA. 

thinks  we  wish  to  be  buried  from  the  annoyances  of 
the  last  hour.  He  is  not  ah  undertaker  nor  a  tailor. 
He  is  a  shoemaker,  and  politely  asks  if  we  do  not 
want  some  good  American  shoes  ?  We  put  him  off  as 
we  did  the  others,  and  at  last  are  ready  for  breakfast. 
Upon  returning  to  our  room,  and  while  engaged  in 


FIRST   IMPRESSION   OF  JAPAN.  123 

unpacking,  we  are  literally  besieged  by  merchants, 
tailors,  shoemakers,  masseurs,  guides,  and  I  know  not 
what  others,  for  at  last,  in  desperation,  I  lock  the  door, 
and  leave  the  anxious  knockers  to  imagine  that  we 
have  died  from  the  pressure  of  business. 

This  afternoon  we  rest.  Our  room  is  on  the  second 
floor,  and  before  it,  runs  a  wide,  well-shaded  piazza, 
facing  the  beautiful  harbor.  We  entertain  ourselves 
by  watching  the  strange  craft  in  the  bay,  which  are  so 
numerous  that  many  times  we  expect  to  see  a  collision. 
The  men  propelling  these  boats  are  very  scantily  clad, 
wearing  only  the  loin  cloth  required  by  law.  They 
appear  muscular  and  athletic. 

On  the  street  are  young  girls  carrying  the  typical 
paper  umbrella,  with  babies  tied  to  their  backs ;  men, 
women,  and  children,  all  so  odd  looking!  A  living 
panorama  of  strange  sights  ! 

After  dinner,  our  friend,  Mr.  C ,  knowing  that  we 

wish  a  reliable,  honest,  and  intelligent  guide,  intro- 
duced Mr.  Y.  F.  Shimidzu,  a  member  of  the  "  Kaiyusha 
Association  "  of  "  Licensed  Guides  of  Japan."  I  like  his 
appearance,  and  engage  him  by  the  month,  instructing 
him  to  report  at  the  hotel  to-morrow.  With  the  re- 
peated bowing  incidental  to  polite  Japan,  he  takes  leave. 

After  dinner  we  become  restless,  and  think  a  little 
peep  into  the  ways  of  the  Japanese  at  night  would  be 
in  order.  Procuring  two  jinrikishas,  we  start  off  for 


124          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

an  hour  or  two  of  sight-seeing  by  ourselves.  We  can 
neither  speak  to  our  jiurikisha  men  nor  they  to  us, 
intelligently,  so  we  arrange,  beforehand,  that  they  will 
take  us  through  some  of  the  business  streets,  and  bring 
us  back  to  the  hotel.  What  interesting  and  instructive 
sights  are  these,  our  first  glimpses  into  the  real  living 


RIDE  THROUGH  THE  STREETS  OF  YOKOHAMA. 

Japan  I  We  have  read  much  of  this  country  and  its 
people,  but  nothing  equals  the  impression  made  by  this 
ride  through  the  streets  of  Yokohama  by  night. 

Hundreds  of  pedestrians  throng  the  streets  and  side- 
walks. Our  jinrikisha  men  whirl  rapidly  past  them, 
and  through  the  crowds  gathered  about  the  hucksters, 


FIRST   IMPRESSION   OF  JAPAN.  125 

calling  out :  "  Hi !  Hi !  Hi !"  The  groups  scatter  in 
all  directions,  and  we  leave  them  gazing  after  us,  queer 
foreign  people. 

Stores  and  booths  of  every  description  line  the  side- 
walks, and  with  the  native  costumes  of  buyers  and 
sellers,  form  a  never-to-be-forgotten  picture. 

As  we  approach  a  Japanese  theatre,  I  tap  my  jinrik- 
isha  man  with  my  cane,  and  motion  for  him  to  take  us 
to  the  entrance  and  there  wait  for  us. 

When  we  enter  we  attract  much  attention,  as  we  are 
the  only  foreigners  (English  or  Americans)  present. 
We  are  given  box  places,  and  as  there  are  no  chairs, 
we  must  sit  upon  our  knees,  as  is  the  custom  here. 
Men,  women,  children  and  babies  compose  the  audience, 
many  of  whom  gaze  upon  us,  rather  than  upon  the 
actors.  I  do  not  object  to  this  notice,  which  would  be 
given  to  them  if  the  case  were  reversed,  and  the  citizens 
of  this  country  were  visiting  one  of  our  theatres  at 
home.  The  parquet  is  a  perfectly  bare  floor,  containing 
neither  chairs,  benches  nor  aisles.  Here  they  squat, 
huddled  close  together.  Where  our  parquet  circle 
would  be,  the  floor  is  raised  about  two  feet  and  enclosed 
with  a  railing,  within  which  sit  the  better  classes  of  the 
people.  During  the  performance  the  children  walk 
about  the  theatre  and  even  across  the  stage.  I  see  three 
children,  innocent  of  clothing,  playing  "tag"  upon  the 
stage,  while  the  actors  are  performing  their  parts. 


126          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

The  audience  present  a  novel  appearance.  Children 
and  adults  generally  wear  loose  clothing,  and  fre- 
quently only  the  simple  garment  called  a  kimono. 

The  heat  is  oppressive,  and  the  air  foul  from  smok- 
ing, for  in  Japan  every  one  smokes,  young  and  old, 
male  and  female.  Many  of  the  children  strip  off  their 
garments  entirely,  and  are  seen  thus,  sitting  or  lying 
upon  the  floor.  Some  of  the  ladies  are  so  warm  that 
they  slip  their  kimonos  off  their  shoulders,  and  bare 
themselves  to  the  waist.  Men  are  quite  naked,  except- 
ing the  loin  cloth.  In  this  clad  and  unclad  audience 
the  greatest  innocence  prevails.  No  thought  of  impro- 
priety exists.  In  their  cool  attire  they  seem  comforta- 
ble and  content.  Close  by  us  is  a  pair  of  lovers,  quite 
young,  and  the  girl  very  pretty  and  innocent  looking, 
as  she  sits  there  with  her  kimono  dropped  to  her  waist. 

Upon  returning  to  the  hotel,  I  engaged  the  services 
of  a  masseur,  called  in  Japan  a  shampooer,  and  retire, 
leaving  orders  to  be  called  early  in  the  morning.  And 
I  may  say  here,  that  if  an  order  is  given  to  a  Japanese 
you  can  be  sure  that  it  will  be  promptly  and  accurately 
fulfilled.  They  never  forget,  and  are  as  regular  as 
clockwork. 

After  a  warm  bath  in  the  morning,  I  find  Mr.  Ikeda, 
the  shampooer,  awaiting  me.  He  is  a  good  looking 
young  fellow,  well  built,  and  of  pleasing  manners.  I 
observe  his  proceeding  with  interest. 


FIRST    IMPRESSION    OF  JAPAN. 


127 


He  washes  his  hands  with  soap  and  water,  then 
taking  from  the  long  baggy  sleeve  of  his  kimono  a 
small  bag  or  puff  of  rice  powder,  he  powders  the  part 
to  be  rubbed,  and  with  gentle  manipulations,  goes  over 
the  whole  body,  giving  the  head  finally  a  special  and 
extra  rubbing.  The  entire  operation  occupies  an  hour. 


THE  ENTIRE  OPERATION  OCCUPIES  AN  HOUR. 

His  charge  is  fifty  sen,  equivalent  in  American  money 
to  twenty-five  cents. 

The  more  common  masseurs,  both  men  and  women, 
walk  through  the  streets,  blowing  at  intervals  a  small 
wooden  whistle,  of  shrill  sound.  These  shampooers 
are  generally  blind,  and  charge  as  low  as  seven  sen,  or 


128          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

three  and  a  half  cents,  for  an  hour's  manipulation.    The 
masseur  is  called  Ainma,  the  masseuse,  Onna  Arnma. 

This  morning  is  taken  up  with  shopping,  until  lunch, 
or  "  tiffin." 


A  BLIND  MASSEUR  OR  SHAMPOOER. 


Our  guide  accompanies  us  everywhere.  After  tiffin, 
he  calls  three  jinrikishas  for  an  afternoon  ride.  The 
jinrikisha  men  wear  large  white  canvas  hats,  on  which 


FIRST   IMPRESSION   OF  JAPAN.  I2Q 

are  stamped  in  black  letters  their  name,  licensed  num- 
ber, and  the  letters  "  G.  H.,"  signifying  Grand  Hotel. 

We  enter  the  frail  looking  carriages,  ladies  first  and 
the  guide  in  the  rear.  Our  men  have  also  stamped  upon 
their  hats  their  names,  which  are  "  Miya,"  "  Cho,"  and 
"  Suke."  We  ride  in  Indian  file,  two  men  being  employed 
for  each  jinrikisha — one  in  the  shafts  and  one  to  push 
at  the  back.  We  ride  through  a  very  interesting  thor- 
oughfare, named  Jizosoka  Street,  where  the  shops  are 
all  open,  and  we  can  see  the  various  tradesmen  at  work. 
Here  are  men  and  women  making  straw  hats  and  bas- 
kets, wooden  shoes  and  sandals.  Here  are  flower  girls, 
cabinet  makers,  dyers,  fishmongers,  and  dozens  of  others, 
all  busily  engaged  in  their  different  occupations,  and 
presenting  a  scene  resembling  nothing  we  have  ever 
before  beheld.  The  total  absence  of  feeling  in  regard 
to  the  exposure  of  the  person,  in  men,  women,  and 
children,  is  everywhere  apparent ;  women  nude  to  the 
waist,  men  wearing  nothing  but  the  loin  cloth,  and 
children  entirely  naked,  are  seen  on  all  sides. 

On  the  way  we  meet  a  Japanese  funeral  procession. 
A  strange  sight,  compared  with  our  American  funerals  ! 
The  Japanese  are  much  more  simple.  Two  men  carry, 
suspended  from  the  centre  of  a  pole,  a  closed  square 
box,  containing  the  corpse.  This  box  is  called  a  "  kago," 
and  is  also  used  by  the  Japanese  in  carrying  tourists 
and  other  travelers  over  mountain  roads  that  are  too 
9 


130          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

rough  for  the  jiurikisha.  Fifteen  or  twenty  mourners 
following  this  hearse — some  walking,  others  in  jin- 
rikishas. 

While  descending  a  very  steep  hill,  I  almost  have  a 
runaway. 

My  jinrikisha  men  are  both  of  light  build,  and  as  I 


IN  THE  DISTANCE  is  THE  BEAUTIFUL  MISSISSIPPI  BAY. 

am  somewhat  heavy  for  them,  the  jinrikisha  goes  faster 
and  faster  down  the  hill,  until  it  is  as  much  as  the  men 
can  do  to  keep  the  frail  vehicle  from  upsetting.  I  sit 
silent,  fearing  at  times  that  I  will  be  pitched  out  head-- 
long, but  curious  to  see  the  wind-up.  I  do  not  realize 
my  danger  until  we  have  reached  the  bottom  of  the 


FIRST   IMPRESSION   OF  JAPAN. 


FIRST  IMPRESSION   OF  JAPAN.  133 

hill,  when  I  thank  my  stars  and  the  men's  good  legs 
for  my  safe  deliverance. 

We  ride  along  Izawa  Street  to  the  race-course.  What 
an  opportunity  this  part  of  the  country  offers  to  the 
artist !  Upon  either  side,  rice,  potatoes,  mulberry 
trees,  and  many  other  products  cover  the  fields  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  see.  In  the  distance  is  the  beautiful 
Mississippi  Bay.  We  are  on  a  high  hill,  from 
which  we  have  a  magnificent  view  of  the  country 
around  us. 

Descending  to  the  plain,  we  pass  the  shrine  of  the 
god,  Sose,  whose  little  wayside  temple  invites  those  who 
wish  to  worship.  We  see  several  persons  upon  their 
knees,  engaged  in  prayer. 

Bamboo  is  freely  grown  here.  What  a  romantic  and 
picturesque  landscape  is  before  us.  The  road  is  shaded 
on  both  sides  by  bamboo  and  other  tropical  trees,  and  is 
quite  foreign  in  appearance.  Locusts  fill  the  air  with 
their  file-like  music.  The  atmosphere  is  cool  and  delight- 
ful, and  the  heavens  cloudless,  their  soft  blue  adding  to 
the  beauty  of  the  scene.  We  come  to  the  little  fishing 
village  of  Negishi  near  the  bay,  which  we  saw  from 
the  top  of  the  hill.  It  consists  of  some  fifty  cottages 
or  shanties  huddled  together,  with  heavy  thatched 
roofs,  resembling  those  one  sees  in  the  interior  of 
southern  Ireland.  Plants  are  grown  on  the  tops  of  the 
houses,  their  roots  adding  strength  to  the  roofs,  and 


134          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

protecting   them   against   the   heavy  winds    that    fre- 
quently prevail  here. 

In  a  short  time  we  arrive  at  the  famous  tea  house 
of  Tsukimikan  (meaning  the  Moon  house),  which 
is  situated  on  the  edge  of  Mississippi  Bay.  The 
name  of  this  seashore  resort  is  Honmokn,  and  here 


IN  A  SHORT  TIME  WE  ARRIVE  AT  THE  FAMOUS  TEA  HOUSE  OF  TSUKIMIKAN. 

are  often    seen    many  bathers    frolicking   in   the  cool 
waters. 

Leaving  onr  jinrikishas,  the  men  to  rest  and  refresh 
themselves  with  tea  and  rice,  we  enter  a  clean  and 
dainty  house,  and  are  met  in  the  doorway  by  the  smil- 
ing landlady  and  about  eight  little  tea  girls.  These 


FIRST   IMPRESSION   OF  JAPAN.  135 

girls'  are  called  Kane,  meaning  coin,  but  a  more  polite 
term  is  Neisan,  little  girl.  These  little  tots  bow  to  us 
profoundly  and  continually,  in  accordance  with  the 
characteristic  custom  of  this  polite  nation.  No  matter 
on  what  occasion  we  meet  these  interesting  people, 
whether  in  shops,  hotels,  or  places  of  amusement,  the 
low  and  graceful  obeisance  is  never  omitted.  Of  course, 
our  shoes  are  removed,  and  we  walk  in  our  stockings 
upon  a  floor  as  bright  and  clean  as  our  table  tops  at 
home. 

We  are  invited  up-stairs  to  a  room  facing  the  bay, 
and  provided  with  cushions,  upon  which  we  sit  a  la 
Japanese,  that  is  upon  our  knees,  or  rather  on  our  feet 
turned  under  us.  We  are  left  alone  a  short  time  to 
rest,  after  which  our  guide  calls  one  of  the  little  tea 
maidens  by  clapping  his  hands. 

In  response  one  of  them  cries  :  "  Hei !  Hei !  Hei !" 
meaning  yes,  yes,  yes,  and  in  a  moment  two  little 
cherry  faced  creatures  in  Japanese  dress  come  trotting 
towards  us,  and  go  down  on  their  knees  with  innumer- 
able bows.  Being  requested  to  bring  some  tea,  they 
go  out  and  soon  return  with  a  tray  holding  a  pitcher  of 
hot  water,  a  tea  pot,  tea  caddy,  and  some  small  cups  and 
saucers.  At  the  same  time  a  wooden  box  is  brought 
in,  containing  a  bronze  bowl  filled  with  hot  charcoal. 
With  this,  one  lights  his  cigarette.  A  small  bamboo 
box  also  appears,  to  be  used  as  a  cuspidor. 


136          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

After  refreshment  and  a  smoke  we  sit  on  the  veranda 
in  front  of  our  room  and  watch  the  bathers.  The  men, 
and  many  of  the  young  girls,  wear  only  the  loin  cloth. 
They  swim  about  and  have  great  fun  in  the  water. 

As  I  wish  to  see  a  public  bath,  which  I  learn  is  con- 
nected with  the  house,  I  ask  my  guide  if  I  can  take  a 
hot  bath  ? 

He  makes  the  necessary  arrangements,  and  then 
accompanies  me  to  the  first  floor,  where  a  private  bath 
is  drawn  for  me.  In  going  to  it,  I  must  pass  through 
the  public  bathroom.  Here  I  see  four  or  five  naked 
men  rubbing  themselves  down.  In  another  corner  are 
seven  or  eight  women,  also  naked,  enjoying  a  wash. 
They  do  not  mind  my  presence  in  the  least.  As  I  pass 
them,  I  wonder  what  a  number  of  Americans  would  do 
on  a  similar  occasion.  Without  doubt  a  great  scramble 
for  secluded  places  would  ensue,  if  I  were  compelled 
to  pass  them  while  in  this  nude  state.  Not  so  here. 
Perfect  unconsciousness  is  manifest,  and  where  no 
thought  of  shame  exists,  purity  alone  reigns. 


JINRIKISHA   RIDES   AND   NOVEL  EXPERI- 
ENCES. 

A  Japanese  afternoon  tea  —  Shoes  in  Japan  —  Yamashita  —  Mrs. 
Shimasaki's — The  great  tattooer— Seeing  the  "  Elephant " — Wooden 
tickets— Maganechio— Demi-monde— Earthquake— Sitting  for  our  pic- 
tures—Along the  canal. 

OUR  guide,  ever  thinking  of  some  new  pleasure  for 
us,  suggests  a  visit  to  his  home,  promising  us  a  genu- 
ine Japanese  afternoon  tea.  We  accept  his  invitation 
gladly,  and  soon  after  our  little  wagons  stop  in  front 
of  a  two-storied  wooden  cottage  on  the  outskirts  of 
Yokohama.  Taking  off  our  shoes  we  enter,  and  are 
ushered  into  a  room  on  the  second  floor.  The  houses  of 
Japan  are  generally  built  of  wood,  and  are  not  more 
than  two  stories  high.  There  is  no  furniture  in  the 
back  room,  through  which  we  pass,  but  in  the  front 
room  we  find  chairs  and  tables  arranged  quite  in 
"  American  "  fashion. 

I  tell  Mr.  Shimidzu  that  I  thought  we  were  invited 
to  a  Japanese  tea.  He  replies  that  as  it  would  be  uncom- 
fortable for  us  to  sit  as  the  Japanese  do,  he  had  chairs 
and  tables  introduced  into  his  house  for  his  American 
and  European  friends,  of  whom  he  has  many,  for  he  is 

137 


138          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

considered  one  of  the  best  and  most  intelligent  guides 
in  Japan.  Afternoon  teas  are  called  in  Japan,  "Ocha." 

In  a  short  time  the  two  daughters  of  Mr.  Shimidzn, 
girls  of  fifteen  and  sixteen  years  of  age,  appear,  and 
are  introduced  to  us  in  the  American  fashion.  They 
are  very  charming.  One  of  them  speaks  a  little  English. 

Retiring  to  an  adjoining  room  they  give  us  some 
music,  one  playing  upon  a  samisen  or  guitar.  The 
music  is  odd  and  sweet.  Then  the  wife  of  our  guide 
comes  in  with  smiling  face  and  gracious  greeting. 
What  pleasant  people  these  are,  ever  happy  and  merry. 
She  sets  before  us  a  tray  of  rice  and  fried  eels,  and, 
instead  of  knives  and  forks,  chopsticks  are  handed  us. 
Now  I  am  grateful  for  my  practice  on  board  the  steamer, 
but  nevertheless, our  awkwardness  causes  them  all  much 
merriment.  A  small  box  is  placed  before  us  containing 
incense,  or  "  ko,"  which,  being  lighted,  fills  the  room 
with  a  sweet,  delicate  odor.  After  the  rice  and  eels,  a 
dish  of  something  resembling  preserved  ginger  is 
passed  around.  Tea  is  then  served,  accompanied  by  a 
sweetmeat  called  "yokan,"  made  of  sugar,  red  beans, 
and  gelatine.  We  chat  as  well  as  we  can,  with  our 
guide  as  interpreter.  Rare  curios,  the  collection  of 
many  years,  are  shown  us.  We  spend  two  delightful 
hours  with  them,  then  say  good-bye.  Having  by  this 
time  learned  the  art  to  perfection,  we  keep  on  bowing 
and  bowing  until  we  have  reached  the  threshold,  when, 


JINRIKISHA   RIDES   AND   NOVEL   EXPERIENCES.       139 

with  a  tip  of  the  hat,  which  is  never  seen  in  Japan,  except 
from  foreigners,  we  betake  ourselves  to  our  jinrikishas, 
and  turn  our  faces  homeward. 

We  wish  to  become  acclimated  to  this  new  country 
by  degrees,  so  think  it  best  to  visit  places  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Yokohama  until  our  more  extensive  pro- 
gramme can  be  carried  into  effect.  Our  mornings  are 
devoted  to  shopping  and  local  amusements. 

After  "  tiffin  "  to-day,  we  walk  to  the  canal,  where  we 
hire  a  sampan  and  are  rowed  to  a  bathing  resort  on 
Mississippi  Bay,  about  two  miles  distant.  The  name 
of  the  place  is  Yamashita,  meaning  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain. Here  we  find  some  fifty  men,  women,  and  children 
bathing  promiscuously.  The  beach  is  lined  with  tea 
houses,  where  persons  may  watch  the  bathers  and  be 
served  with  hot  tea.  There  are  no  bath  houses  here, 
where  men  and  women  may  make  their  toilets.  All 
changes  are  made  in  the  open  air,  "  without  fear  or 
trembling."  There  is  little  to  interest  us  here,  so  we 
return  to  our  starting  point,  pay  our  boatman,  and  walk 
to  the  noted  establishment  of  Mrs.  Shimasaki.  A  knock 
at  the  frail  door  causes  the  lady  of  the  house  to  slide  it 
back,  and  with  courteous  bows  and  smiles  to  bid  us 
enter.  This  establishment  is  devoted  to  fine  embroidery 
and  linen  work.  We  make  several  purchases,  then  ask 
if  we  may  visit  the  workroom.  Upon  being  conducted 
thither,  we  see  some  nine  or  ten  little  girls,  so  small 


140          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

that  really,  in  walking  about,  I  am  afraid  that  I  will 
accidentally  tread  upon  them.  These  children  are 
adepts  with  their  fingers  and  the  needle.  We  are  shown 
a  large  and  delicate  piece  of  work,  upon  which  three 
of  them  are  engaged  at  the  same  time.  It  represents  a 
cobweb.  The  design  is  made  by  a  young  man  artist, 
and  the  girls  carry  it  out  with  silk  and  linen  threads. 
It  is  true  to  nature,  and  the  portion  completed,  most 
exquisitely  worked.  These  girls  receive  only  about  five 
cents  a  day  for  their  labor. 

We  also  visit  the  greatest  tattooer  in  Japan,  whose 
name  is  M.  Hori  Chiyo.  His  card  bears  the  following 
announcement :  "  Patronized  by  H.  R.  H.,  Princes 
Albert  Victor  and  George,  and  having  testimony  of 
Marquises,  Counts,  and  other  particular  families."  This 
circular  always  accompanies  his  card :  "As  my  art  of 
tattooing  has  been  frequently  noticed  in  the  American 
and  European  press.  I  had  a  taste  of  drawing  from 
very  young  age.  I  entered  the  Tokyo  Fine  Arts 
Academy,  and  after  graduating  in  the  drawing  course, 
1  studied  assiduously  the  art  of  tattooing.  Being  not 
satisfied  with  the  common  crude  works  of  the  profes- 
sion, I  devised  various  new  methods,  and  attained  to  the 
highest  degree  of  perfection,  as  to  the  minuteness  and 
artistic  effects,  which  will  delight  and  surprise  to 
behold.  The  tattooing  being  unlike  those  species  of 
engravings,  care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  work  done 


JINRIKISHA   RIDES  AND  NOVEL  EXPERIENCES.        141 

in  a  perfect  and  high-toned  manner ;  otherwise,  once  it 
is  executed,  cannot  be  retouched,  but  remains  lifelong 
on  the  body  as  a  scar,  if  badly  done  and  not  liked. 
My  specialty  is  the  crest,  monogram,  and  portrait. 
The  distinct  minuteness  of  the  work  shall  not  be 
approached  by  others.  My  designs  are  unlike  any  pat- 
terns kept  by  others.  I  make  fresh  designs  every  year, 
and  select  only  those  that  will  suit  my  patrons,  which 
amounts  above  two  thousand.  The  needles  and 
materials  which  I  daily  employ,  I  iise  fresh  ones  for 
every  patron.  I  take  special  precaution  against  possible 
dangers,  not  to  use  the  needles  that  have  been  employed 
for  another  body.  My  object  is  not  in  making  money 
by  the  work,  but  I  covet  to  spread  the  art  all  over  the 
world,  and  promote  my  reputation.  All  tourists  who 
come  to  Japan  from  Europe  and  America  are  solicited 
to  patronize  my  work,  as  it  may  serve  as  a  memento  of 
pleasant  sojourn  or  visit  to  the  fair  land  of  '  Rising 
Sun '  at  such  and  such  period  of  one's  age." 

We  are  received  by  Mr.  Chiyo's  wife,  a  bright  and 
pleasant  little  Japanese  woman,  who  invites  us  to  be 
seated  and  excuses  herself.  In  a  few  moments  the 
world-renowned  M.  Hori  Chiyo  enters,  and  after  a 
cordial  greeting,  asks  us  into  his  workroom.  It  is  our 
good  fortune  to  see  Mr.  Chiyo  working  upon  the  fore- 
arm of  a  very  young  man.  The  design,  in  many 
colors,  represents  the  Japanese  dragon,  and  is  fully  ten 


142          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

inches  loiig.  The  execution  is  artistic  aiid  exquisite 
both  iu  color  aud  detail.  I  ask  the  young  man,  who 
by  the  way,  is  a  Pliiladelphian,  how  long  he  has  been 
in  the  chair?  He  replies,  since  early  morning,  and 
that  the  design  will  require  a  day  for  completion.  The 
designs  are  selected  from  a  book,  containing  many 
hundreds  of  patterns,  aud  will  be  produced  upon  what 
ever  part  of  the  body  is  desired.  Mr.  Chiyo  assures  me 
that  the  dyes  are  permanent,  and  seems  quite  alarmed 
when  I  tell  him  that  I  can  remove  the  design  from  the 
body  of  the  gentlemen  upon  whom  he  is  working.  He 
inquires  anxiously  how  this  can  be  accomplished  ?  I 
reply  :  "  By  cutting  off  the  arm  at  the  elbow."  He 
smiles  and  looks  greatly  relieved  at  what  he  calls  my 
American  wit.  His  wife's  arms,  at  which  he  allows  me 
to  look,  are  most  beautifully  tattooed  from  the  shoulders 
down.  Air.  Chiyo's  body  is  also  elaborately  decorated, 
so  much  so  that  one  could  readily  imagine  that  it  has  a 
covering  of  some  exquisitely  fine  fabric.  He  assures 
me  that  he  is  completely  tattooed  with  his  own  original 
designs. 

Thinking  I  have  had  enough  novelty  for  to-day,  I 
give  myself  up  to  an  evening  on  the  hotel  porch,  listen- 
ing to  the  Japanese  band  playing  English  and  American 
operas.  As  I  am  enjoying  myself  thus,  the  guide 
approaches,  and  with  repeated  bowing  asks  if  I  would 
like  to  go  out  to  see  the  "  elephant  ?"  Wondering  in 


JINRIKISHA    RIDES    AND    NOVEL    EXPERIENCES.       143 

what  respects  the  Japanese  elephant  differs  from  that 
in  other  parts  of  the  world,  such  as  Paris,  London,  and 
Berlin,  I  am,  notwithstanding  my  fatigue,  persuaded  to 
go  and  see  him  when  he  is  to  be  seen. 


AND  THE  PEOPLE  IN  THEIR  QUAINT  AND  PICTURESQUE 
COSTUMES  ARE  VERY  INTERESTING. 

Procuring  two  jinrikishas,  we  are  soon  riding  rap- 
idly through  the  city  streets.  How  beautiful  a  Japa- 
nese city  is  at  night !  Thousands  of  lighted  lantermj 


144          VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

hang  from  the  shops,  and  the  throngs  of  people  in 
their  quaint  and  picturesque  costumes  are  very  inter- 
esting. 

We  ride  along  the  main  street  to  Onoicho  Street, 
thence  to  Basha  Street,  and,  crossing  the  Kanenohashi 
bridge,  we  come  to  Isezakicho,  or  Theatre  Street,  which 
is  to  me  the  most  interesting  street  in  Yokohama. 
It  seems  to  be  the  general  thoroughfare.  Hundreds 
and  hundreds  of  men,  women,  and  children  promenade 
the  street  and  sidewalks,  laughing,  talking,  and  enjoy- 
ing life  in  their  own  happy  way.  The  stores  on  either 
side  and  the  various  booths  offer  their  wares  at  tempt- 
ing prices  to  the  customer  of  limited  means.  For 
whole  squares  may  be  seen  merchants  who  have  spread 
matting  upon  the  street,  and  placed  thereon  goods  and 
cheap  articles  to  catch  the  fancy  of  the  populace.  It 
is  not  uncommon  to  see  a  group  of  ten,  fifteen,  or 
twenty  gathered  around  one  of  these  street  venders, 
who  declaims  earnestly  in  praise  of  his  goods,  with  a 
joke  sandwiched  in  to  hold  his  listeners  until  a  sale  is 
completed. 

In  this  street  theatres  and  other  places  of  amuse- 
ment abound,  and  the  excitement  is  increased  by  the 
constant  beating  of  drums  and  cymbals  and  the  Japa- 
nese bands  playing  national  music.  Songs  and  the 
"  samisen  "  are  also  heard.  Yes,  this  is  the  street  of 
all  streets  in  Yokohama  ! 


JINRIKISHA   RIDES   AND   NOVEL   EXPERIENCES.      145 

At  length  the  jinrikishas  halt,  and  we  alight  before 
a  Japanese  circus.  Paying  for  a  ticket  to  the  best  part 
of  the  house  twenty  sen,  or  ten  cents  in  American 
money,  we  enter.  The  tickets  of  admission  are  not  small 
cards,  such  as  we  use  in  our  theatres,  but  long  wooden 
tablets,  nine  and  a  half  inches  in  length,  two  inches 


WE  COME   TO    ISEZAKICHO,  OR   THEATRE   STREET,  THE   MOSI 
ESTING  STREET  IN  YOKOHAMA. 


wide,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  with  Japanese 
writing  on  both  sides.  They  are  given  up  at  the  door 
as  we  enter  the  theatre.  Here  are  also  sold  wooden 
shoe  checks.  For  the  sum  of  one  sen  shoes  are  checked 
and  left  outside  the  theatre.  As  I  am  a  foreigner  I  am 
10 


146          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

allowed  to  keep  mine  on  my  feet.  Perhaps  they  think 
I  wear  no  stockings,  and  am  ashamed  to  expose  my 
naked  feet. 

We  are  shown  to  a  box  on  the  second  floor,  from 
which  we  view  the  strange  mass  of  human  beings.  The 
performance  is  poor,  compared  with  those  of  our  great 


WE  NEXT  VISIT  THE  MAGANECHIO. 


Barnum  or  Forepaugh,  the  most  famous  shows  in  the 
world.  The  lower  floor  is  bare  of  everything  save  the 
leather  cushions  that  can  be  had  for  one  sen,  in  addition 
to  the  admission  fee,  which  is  three  sen  in  this  part  of 
the  house. 
Japanese  programmes  represent  the  order  of  the  play 


JINRIKISHA   RIDES    AND    NOVEL   EXPERIENCES.       147 

by  pictures,  thus  at  a  glance  you  are  able  to  follow  the 
performance.  Before  we  leave  the  circus  I  ask  the 
guide  to  purchase  for  me  one  of  the  wooden  admission 
tickets,  jestingly  remarking  that  perhaps  I  can  have 
them  introduced  into  our  theatres  at  home.  The  ticket 
agent  generously  presents  me  with  one  of  the  tablets, 
for  which,  however,  I  return  a  small  fee. 

We  next  visit  the  Maganechio,  entering  with  our  jin- 
rikishas  through  a  lofty  gateway.  This  is  one  of  many 
places  of  a  similar  order  throughout  Japan.  It  is  a 
large  enclosure,  with  a  moat  on  one  side,  and  a  high 
stone  wall  surrounding  the  houses,  which  almost  form 
a  village  of  themselves.  With  the  exception  of  the 
stores  that  supply  food,  clothing,  and  other  articles,  the 
houses  are  devoted  to  the  demi-monde.  There  are  many 
streets,  with  rows  of  houses,  each  containing  dozens  of 
girls,  between  the  ages  of  twelve  and  twenty-four  years. 

In  the  front  part  of  each  house  is  a  long  room  facing 
the  street,  protected  only  by  a  wooden  grating,  behind 
which  the  girls  are  required  to  sit  in  rows,  awaiting 
their  selection  by  a  customer.  These  houses  are  gen- 
erally managed  by  women,  and  are  under  the  protection 
and  inspection  of  the  government. 

Any  girl  or  woman  in  Japan  found  guilty  of  prosti- 
tution is  arrested  and  placed  in  one  of  these  houses  of 
the  Maganechio.  The  government  also  provides  hos- 
pitals for  these  unfortunates. 


148          VACATION   DAYS    IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

In  justice  to  many  of  them,  I  must  state  that  this  life 
is  not  always  led  by  them  of  their  own  free  will.  They 
are  frequently  placed  here  by  parents  to  pay  off  a  debt, 
and  are  compelled  to  remain  until  they  have  earned  a 
certain  sum  of  money. 

Yesterday  we  had  our  first  experience  of  an  earth- 


[IN  THE  FRONT  OF  EACH  HOUSE  is  A  LONG  ROOM  PROTECTED  ONLY 
BY  A  WOODEN  GRATING. 

quake  in  Japan.  While  writing  at  a  table,  I  was 
startled  by  seeing  things  sway  to  and  fro.  The  chan- 
delier shook  violently,  and  the  building  began  to  rock. 
For  an  instant  my  presence  of  mind  deserted  me,  but 
the  natural  impulse  is  to  run  somewhere,  and  as  the 


JINRIKISHA   RIDES  AND   NOVEL  EXPERIENCES.       149 

doors  are  generally  open,  I  quickly  found  myself  on 
the  porch  with  others,  awaiting  further  developments. 
The  hotel  continued  to  sway  for  nearly  a  minute,  then 
ceased,  and  the  earthquake  was  over.  But  the  feeling 
was  decidedly  unpleasant.  Natives  and  residents  here 
are  quite  used  to  these  antics,  and  look  upon  an  earth- 
quake, unless  very  severe,  as  we  do  upon  an  April 
shower.  They  are  of  frequent  occurrence. 

I  am  told  that  a  prominent  scientist  stated  the  islands 
of  Japan  are  in  constant  motion,  caused  by  volcanic 
action,  but  that  the  inhabitants  have  become  accustomed 
to  it.  Their  frail  wooden  houses,  however,  readily  suc- 
cumb to  a  really  severe  earthquake.  It  is  generally  ad- 
mitted that  the  safest  place  during  a  severe  shock  is 
near  the  house,  as  many  incidents  are  recorded  of 
natives  who  have  met  their  death  by  running  into  the 
streets  or  roads,  and  been  swallowed  up  by  the  great 
seams  that  opened  in  the  earth. 

To-day  being  clear  and  cool,  we  decide  to  have  our 
photographs  taken  in  Japanese  costume  ;  so  in  the 
necessary  jinrikishas  we  proceed  in  Indian  file  along 
the  Bund,  or  ocean  drive,  to  the  photographer's.  On 
the  beach,  it  being  low  tide,  we  see  many  young  girls, 
in  their  picturesque  costumes,  gathering  shells,  which, 
we  learn,  are  crushed  and  used  for  mortar  and  fertiliz- 
ing purposes.  Mr.  Kimbei,  whose  studio  is  situated 
upon  Honcho-Dori  Street,  is  the  best  photographer  in 


150          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

Yokohama.  We  euter  with  our  guide,  and  upon  making 
known  our  wishes  are  shown  up-stairs  to  a  dressing-room, 
where  a  charming  little  Japanese  girl  dresses  the  foreign 
ladies  in  Japanese  costume.  A  Japanese  gentleman  is 
also  engaged  to  attire  the  men.  This  assistance  is 
quite  necessary.  When  dressed,  we  are  told  to  sit  Jap- 


HERE  MAY  BE  SEEN  THE  LANTERN  MAKER. 

anese  fashion,  that  is,  to  cross  the  legs  under  one  ;  and 
we  remain  in  this  uncomfortable  position  until  our  pho- 
tographs are  taken. 

When  this  is  accomplished,  we  ride  along  the  canal 
to  the  village  of  Negishi.  It  is  a  very  interesting  drive 
on  account  of  the  many  curious  stores  that  line  the 


JINRIKISHA   RIDES   AND   NOVEL   EXPERIENCES.       151 


JINRIKISHA   RIDES  AND   NOVEL  EXPERIENCES.       153 

sidewalks.  Here  may  be  seen  the  lantern  maker  and 
umbrella  manufacturer.  Both  lanterns  and  umbrellas 
are  made  of  oiled  paper,  and  may  be  exposed  to  sun  and 
rain  without  injury.  These  umbrellas  are  almost  uni- 
versally used  in  the  country,  and  to  a  large  extent  in  the 
city.  Here,  too,  is  the  wigmaker,  whose  custom  is 


HERE  is  A  DRAPER  DISPLAYING   His 


K  OPEN  FRONT. 


chiefly  among  the  actors,  as  the  natives  generally  have 
magnificent  hair.  Baldness  is  almost  unknown  in 
Japan.  Here  is  a  draper  displaying  his  goods  from  the 
open  front.  In  making  a  purchase,  one  sits  iipon  a 
platform  in  the  front  of  the  store,  the  merchant  squat- 
ting before  you,  will  show  you  any  article  in  his  stock. 


154          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

Various  street  venders  offer  provisions  for  sale,  carry- 
ing, as  it  were,  their  stores  upon  their  backs. 

On  the  outskirts  of  the  city  we  pass  a  blacksmith's 
shop,  where  the  men  are  industriously  engaged  upon 
all  kinds  of  iron  work,  more  especially  the  frames  of 
wagons,  jinrikishas,  etc. 

In  the  canal  is  a  large  barge  laden  with  coal,  which  is 
being  borne  off  by  men  and  women  coolies  in  baskets 
upon  their  shoulders.  As  they  cross  the  gang-plank  a 
watchman  stands  close  by  with  a  long,  heavy  stick  to  urge 
them  on  should  they  lag  in  their  duty.  Boys  and  girls 
and  some  men  are  knee-deep  in  the  water  of  the  canal, 
shell  gathering.  This  canal  is  a  very  active  thorough- 
fare. Barges  laden  with  vegetables,  rice,  shells,  and 
various  other  goods  are  pushed  by  men  with  long  bam- 
boo poles  or  sculled  with  a  large  oar. 

As  we  pass  through  the  village  we  are  greeted  by  the 
natives  with,  "O-hayo!"  (good-morning) ,  or  "  Konni- 
chi-wa  ?"  (how  do  you  do  ?)  smiling  and  nodding  their 
black  heads. 

At  one  of  the  tea  houses,  where  we  rest  and  have 
tea  and  sweetmeats,  the  polite  landlady  bows  so  repeat- 
edly and  so  close  to  the  ground  that  I  entertained 
fears  of  her  turning  a  somersault,  but  her  experience 
in  such  profound  matters  enables  her  to  avoid  this 
catastrophe.  One  cannot  help  appreciating  the  kind- 
ness and  attention  universally  shown  to  foreigners  ; 


JINRIKISHA   RIDES   AND   NOVEL   EXPERIENCES.       155 

from  both  high  and  low  we    have  found  this  worthy 
of  note. 

At  the  tea  houses  throughout  Japan,  where  the  tourist 
pauses  to  rest  a  few  moments  and  relieve  his  cramped 
limbs  after  a  long  ride  in  the  jinrikisha,  a  small  fee 
of  about  ten  sen  is  expected  for  the  tea  and  service. 
Upon  entering  one  of  these  wayside  inns  a  small  tray, 
called  "  bon,"  is  placed  before  the  guest.  Upon  this  is 
a  teapot,  teacups,  and  a  caddy  of  tea,  hot  water,  some 
sweetmeats,  generally  mint  candy,  and  a  small  charcoal 
fire,  from  which  to  light  the  pipe  or  cigarette. 


KAMAKURA  AND  ENOSHIMA. 

Kamakura— The  Icho  Tree— Ud-di-jin  and  Sa-di-jin — Temple  of  Ha- 
chi-man — Onna  Ishi  and  Otoko  Ishi — Lotus  Pond— Daibutsu — Temple 
of  Kwannon— Katase— Food  in  Japan— Enoshima— Kin  Kiro  Inn — 
Mountain  Cave — Goddess  of  Luck — Diver— Japanese  money  -  Statistics. 

WE  rise  early  this  morning,  the  day  being  favorable 
for  our  trip  to  Kamakura  and  Enoshima.  Kamakura 
is  fifty  minutes  by  railroad,  changing  cars  at  Ofuna 
Junction.  The  country  along  this  route  is  full  of  in- 
terest, for  many  villages  are  passed,  and  we  see  the 
Japanese  in  their  national  costumes  and  in  their  low 
frame  houses  or  huts.  Far  off  in  the  distance  the  peak 
of  the  noble  Fuji-yama  is  ever  in  view. 

Our  guide  always  accompanies  us,  but  travels  sec- 
ond-class, both  in  the  railway  coaches  and  when  stop- 
ping over-night  at  the  inns.  He  carries  our  lunch, 
which  is  put  up  for  us  at  the  hotel  before  we  start  on 
a  day's  jaunt.  What  strange  sights  we  constantly  see 
at  these  stations,  especially  at  some  distance  from  the 
cities  !  Here  are  men  and  women  and  children  in  na- 
tive costume,  wearing  the  proverbial  wooden  shoes. 
They  may  be  seen  hurrying  hither  and  thither,  shuf- 
fling their  feet  and  making  a  noise  that  sounds  as  if  we 
had  struck  a  forest  at  midday  filled  with  locusts. 
156 


KAMAKURA    AND    ENOSHIMA.  157 

When  we  reach  the  terminus  our  attentive  guide  is 
at  the  door  of  our  coach,  assists  us  to  alight,  and  calls 
three  jinrikishamen,  with  theii  little  carriages.  Each 
carriage  is  provided  with  an  extra  man,  for  our  ride 
from  this  point  is  to  be  a  long,  hard  pull.  After  a  short 
controversy  about  the  price  the  guide  gives  the  order, 
"  Go !"  and  we  are  off,  at  a  dog-trot  gait,  for  the  famous 
temple  of  Hachi-man. 

On  the  road  we  pass  through  such  strange  places  and 
see  such  odd  sights  that  we  rub  our  eyes  and  wonder  if 
we  are  not  dreaming.  Here  is  a  little  village ;  the  na- 
tives, eager  and  curious  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  for- 
eigners, are  standing  in  their  doorways,  smiling  at  our 
strange  appearance.  Although  this  road  is  frequently 
traveled  over  by  tourists,  the  interest  with  which  the 
native  looks  upon  the  foreigner  never  loses  its  inten- 
sity. 

The  thatched  roofs  which  shelter  the  cottagers  from 
the  sun's  rays  and  the  beating  storms  have  become 
quite  familiar  to  us.  We  have  reached  Kamakura. 
The  village  is  composed  of  a  number  of  small  cottages, 
shops,  and  tea  houses.  Leaving  the  jinrikishas,  we 
now  proceed  on  foot,  passing  under  two  ancient  torii 
(torii  meaning  literally  bird's  rest)  and  over  a  prettily 
constructed  circular  bridge.  Beautiful  lotus  flowers  in- 
vite us  to  pause,  but  we  go  on,  and  at  last  stand  on  the 
steps  leading  to  the  ancient  and  renowned  temple  of 


I5S          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

Hachi-inan.  Midway  up  we  pass  under  the  branches 
of  the  noble  Icho  tree,  which  is  about  twenty  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, and  is  said  to  be  a  thousand  years  old.  It 
spreads  wide  its  boughs,  covered  with  thick  foliage. 


LARGE  BELL— KAMAKURA. 


Still  ascending,  we  see  on  either  side  of  the  wide  stair- 
way two  wooden  images,  enclosed  in  cages  and  appar- 
ently keeping  guard  over  the  temple.  The  one  on  our 


KAMAKURA    AND    ENOSHIMA.  159 

right  is  called  Ud-di-jin,  or  "  Right  Minister,"  and  that 
on  the  left  Sa-di-jin,  or  "  Left  Minister."  These  min- 
isters are  supposed  to  keep  a  safe  watch  over  the  tem- 
ple. Both  ministers  are  covered  with  paper  spit-balls 
which  have  been  thrown  at  them  from  time  to  time,  and 
have  stuck  fast.  There  is  a  superstition  among  the 
Japanese  that  if  a  wish  be  written  on  paper,  then 
chewed  and  thrown  at  a  favorite  god  or  goddess,  the 
wish  will  be  fulfilled  if  the  paper  adheres  to  the  image ; 
if  it  falls  off  it  is  an  unfavorable  omen. 

We  stand  before  the  great  temple,  within  whose  walls 
are  enclosed  those  things  which  are  most  sacred  to  the 
native  of  Japan.  Curious  suits  of  old  armor,  masks, 
swords,  and  spears  may  be  seen  in  the  series  of  rooms 
filled  with  evidences  of  ancient  history.  We  pass  many 
shrines,  noted  in  the  traditions  of  this  people.  Not 
far  from  the  main  temple,  enclosed  by  a  wooden  rail- 
ing are  two  large  stones.  Upon  asking  what  peculiar 
interest  is  attached  to  them,  our  guide  tells  us  that  the 
one  on  the  right  is  called  Onna  Ishi,  or  female  stone, 
and  the  one  on  the  left  Otoko  Ishi,  or  the  male  stone. 
The  peculiar  natural  formation  of  the  first  stone  has 
given  it  its  name.  It  is  of  great  age.  It  is  said  that 
barren  women  wishing  children  may  have  their  genera- 
tion perpetuated  by  simply  rubbing  this  stone.  The 
male  stone  is  placed  there  merely  as  a  companion  to  the 
female  stone. 


160          VACATION   DAYS  IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

Descending  the  hill,  we  see  at  our  feet  a  lovely  lotus 
pond,  covering  several  acres.  The  leaves  of  some  of 
the  plants  are  fully  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  the 
flowers  are  enormous,  measuring  from  twelve  to  fourteen 
inches  across.  They  are  white  and  pink,  and  are  now 
(August)  at  the  height  of  their  bloom. 

We  return  to  our  jinrikishas,  and  a  short  ride  brings 
us  to  the  presence  of  the  Great  Buddha,  or  Daibutsu, 
a  masterpiece  of  Japanese  art  and  skill.  This  image 
was  cast  in  bronze  in  1252  A.  D.  It  is  about  fifty  feet 
high  and  ninety-eight  feet  in  circumference  ;  the  length 
of  the  face  is  eight  feet  and  a  half,  of  the  eyes,  four  feet, 
and  the  ears,  six  feet  and  a  half.  The  eyes  are  said  to 
be  of  pure  gold. 

We  enter  by  a  gateway  into  the  hollow  form  of  the 
Daibutsu,  and  find  therein  several  smaller  statues, 
among  them  one  of  Auiida-Butsu.  Retracing  our 
steps,  we  stand  again  before  the  majestic  figure.  It  is 
truly  a  marvelous  work,  and  represents  a  stupendous 
amount  of  labor.  A  solemn  stillness  surrounds  this 
idol  of  the  people's  faith  and  hope.  As  I  look  up  to 
the  calm  powerful  countenance,  I  think  of  the  thou- 
sands of  penitents  who  annually  offer  up  their  prayers 
to  God  through  this  image. 

As  we  stand,  filled  with  wonder  and  admiration,  many 
worshipers  prostrate  themselves  before  the  shrine,  and 
with  audible  prayers  supplicate  the  blessing  of  the  god. 


KAMAKURA    AND    ENOSHIMA.  l6l 

The  temple  of  Kwannon  stands  upon  an  eminence 
overlooking  the  plain  of  Kamakura.  It  is  celebrated 
for  the  great  image  of  the  Goddess  of  Mercy,  which  is 
here  concealed  from  public  view  behind  folding  doors. 
A  small  fee  to  the  attendant  enables  one  to  gaze  upon 
this  beautiful  idol,  which  is  made  of  brown  lacquered 
wood,  gilded  over,  and  is  thirty  feet  five  and  a  half 
inches  high.  There  are  many  small  images  within  the 
temple,  of  which  much  might  be  said.  The  god  of 
Money  sits  upon  two  sacks  of  rice,  holding  in  his  hand 
a  mallet,  and  the  native  belief  is  that  prayer  to  this 
god  for  help  in  financial  affairs  will  be  answered.  In 
front  of  the  shrine  is  a  small  wooden  image  resting  on 
its  knees.  This  god  rules  that  part  of  the  body  sub- 
ject to  pain  and  disease,  blindness,  deafness,  and  other 
afflictions,  and  if  the  petitioner  will  rub  the  god  in  a 
part  corresponding  with  that  of  the  pain  in  his  own 
body,  he  will  be  healed.  Unfortunately  I  have  neither 
aches,  pains  nor  disease,  consequently  I  cannot  test  the 
efficacy  of  this  all-powerful  idol. 

Having  seen  enough  of  shrines  and  temples  for  to- 
day, the  guide  directs  our  men  to  the  picturesque  and 
beautiful  Hnoshima.  ("  Eno "  signifies  bay,  and 
"  shima  "  island.)  But  Enoshima  is  really  a  peninsula, 
for  it  is  surrounded  by  the  sea  only  at  high  tide.  Out- 
ride is  along  the  sea,  and  we  can  perceive  the  village 
far  off  at  the  water's  edge.  As  it  is  high  tide,  Eno- 
ii 


l62          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

shima  is  an  island.  There  is,  however,  a  bridge  con- 
necting it  with  the  mainland.  As  we  ride  along  the 
beach  we  see  numbers  of  fishermen,  standing  up  to 
their  armpits  in  water,  fishing  with  long  poles.  They 
are  said  to  be  very  expert  with  hook  and  line,  and  the 
fish  here  are  excellent. 

At  the  village  of  Katase  we  leave  our  men,  for  we 
must  walk  from  here  to  Enoshiuia.  We  stop  and  rest 
at  one  of  the  tea  houses  in  the  neighborhood,  and  while 
our  tea  is  being  served  we  see  our  jinrikisha  men  strip 
off  their  clothing,  consisting  of  a  very  light  cotton 
undershirt  and  a  pair  of  thin  trunks,  and  go  thus 
naked  to  a  tub  near  by  filled  with  clean  water,  give 
themselves  a  thorough  washing  and  put  on  fresh  suits  ; 
then  proceed  to  wash  the  soiled  garments  they  have 
taken  off,  and  hang  them  in  the  sun  to  dry.  I  admire 
their  cleanliness,  which  may  be  said  to  extend  to  all 
the  inhabitants  of  Japan.  They  seem  to  live  more  by 
washing  than  by  eating. 

We  have  had  tea  and  a  pleasant  rest,  and  now  again, 
just  before  leaving,  a  pretty  little  girl  brings  us  hot  tea 
and  sweetmeats  of  powdered  rice  flavored  with  mint,  and 
the  usual  charcoal  fire,  from  which  we  light  our  cigarettes. 
Then  the  landlady  bows  and  bows  and  bows.  Gracious  ! 
I  think  she  will  never  stop !  And  with  every  bow  she 
utters  the  droll  words  :  "  Mata-Irasshai "  (Please  come 
again).  We  say,  "Sayonara"  (Good-bye). 


KAMAKURA   AND    ENOSHIMA.  163 

The  tea  throughout  Japan  is  served  very  weak,  and 
without  sugar  or  milk.  Sugar,  butter,  and  milk  are 
found  in  this  country  only  in  the  large  cities  and  open 
ports.  The  principal  food  of  the  natives  is  boiled  rice, 
raw  eggs,  fish  raw  or  cooked,  pickles,  and  sake,  a 
Japanese  whiskey  distilled  from  rice. 


PASSING  THROUGH  A  TORI  WE  ENTER  THE  MAIN  STREET. 

An  hour's  walk  brings  us  to  the  village  of  Enoshima. 
Passing  through  a  tori,  we  enter  the  main,  and,  in  fact, 
only  street,  which  is  very  narrow,  with  ascending  steps 
and  numerous  shops,  which  keep  small  articles  to  sell  to 
the  tourist,  such  as  boxes,  chopsticks,  fans,  balls  made  of 
marble  or  stone,  strings  of  shells,  and  pin-cushions. 


164          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

On  the  mouutaiu  side,  facing  the  ocean,  at  the  end 
of  the  street,  are  three  pretty  inns  which  are  the  favor- 
ite resort  of  the  tourist.  Many  foreigners  spend  days 
and  even  weeks  here  in  summer.  I  ask  the  guide  to 
which  one  we  are  going.  He  replies  : 

"  To  the  best  one,  the  Kin-Kiro  Inn." 

In  a  few  moments  we  are  at  the  door.  We  freely 
use  the  words,  "O-hayo"  (Good-morning),  or  "  Kon- 
nichi-wa"  (How  do  you  do?)  and  the  landlady  bows 
profoundly  and  repeatedly.  Then  appear  half  a  dozen 
pretty  little  waiting-girls,  with  sweet  smiles,  and  still 
more  profuse  bowing. 

We  remove  our  shoes  and  enter.  To-day,  at  least,  I 
am  grateful  for  this  custom,  so  restful  to  tired  feet. 
Our  tiny  maidens  precede  us  to  the  second  floor,  where 
we  are  given  two  pleasant  rooms  facing  the  ocean.  A 
delightful  breeze  blows  through,  directly  from  the  sea. 

Our  guide  prefers  to  take  his  meal  below,  of  Japanese 
food,  in  his  own  native  fashion.  Ours  is  served  in 
our  rooms.  A  queer  little  table,  about  eight  inches 
from  the  ground,  is  placed  before  us,  and  soft  cushions 
given  us  to  sit  upon.  I  tell  them  I  want  to  eat  with 
chopsticks,  which  causes  the  little  maidens  much 
amusement. 

We  are  served  with  rice,  eggs,  tea,  and  sweetmeats, 
and  as  we  are  hungry,  the  meal  is  quite  palatable. 
Three  pretty  girls  sit  beside  us  and  fan  us  while  we 


KAMAKURA    AND    ENOSHIMA.  165 

are  eating.  These  girls,  sixteen  or  eighteen  years  of 
age,  are  hired  to  the  inns  by  their  parents,  and  are  gen- 
erally from  the  country,  many  of  them  never  having 
seen  a  large  town  or  city.  They  are  called  "  Chaya 
Onna,"  or  tea-house  women,  but  I  prefer  the  more 
polite  term  of  "  Neisan,"  or  little  girl.  Strange  are  the 
sights  presented  by  the  adjoining  rooms!  The  only 
partitions  are  screens,  and  these  are  rarely  closed  in 
hot  weather,  so  that  one  is  well  aware  of  all  that  goes 
on  in  his  neighbor's  apartment. 

In  the  room  next  to  us,  two  Japanese  young  men  are 
preparing  for  a  dip  in  the  ocean.  Having  cast  off  their 
kimonos,  they  attire  themselves  in  loin-cloths,  and  walk 
by  us  across  the  porch  and  down  a  footpath  to  the 
beach.  In  another  room  a  mother  and  her  two  daugh- 
ters are  also  making  their  toilet  for  the  bath,  exchang- 
ing their  native  dress  for  the  kimono  provided  by  the 
inn  for  this  purpose. 

After  tiffin,  our  guide  proposes  a  tour  of  the  island, 
and  we  take  a  long,  hot  ramble,  up  and  down  the  hills, 
with  a  coolie  at  our  heels  carrying  our  traps.  We  go 
through  pretty  bits  of  woodland  and  along  a  narrow 
road,  bordered  by  numerous  tea  houses,  and  at  last 
reach  the  open  on  the  other  side  of  the  island,  at  an 
elevation  of  six  or  seven  hundred  feet. 

The  cool  breeze  is  refreshing,  and  we  find  here  several 
tea  houses  on  a  prominent  point  overhanging  the  sea ; 


1 66          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

in  one  of  them  we  rest  and  refresh  ourselves.  We 
have  a  magnificent  view  from  this  point.  The  ocean 
spreads  out  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see,  and  from  the  base 
of  the  mountain  great  rugged  rocks  project  their  sharp 
points  along  the  coast,  while  the  waves  come  dashing 
iii  with  a  roar,  casting  their  spray  high  in  the  air. 


WE  Go  THROUGH  PRETTY  BITS  OF  WOODLAND  AND  ALONG 
A  NARROW  ROAD. 

We  descend  by  steps  cut  in  the  rocks,  and  wander 
along  from  point  to  point,  taking  care  not  to  slip  on  the 
wet  stones,  until  we  come  to  the  mouth  of  a  cave  in  the 
side  of  the  mountain.  This  cave  has  always  been  con- 
sidered a  sacred  spot  by  the  natives.  There  are  many 


KAMAKURA   AND    ENOSHIMA.  167 

traditions  connected  with  it  and  the  island,  the  most 
popular  of  which  is  the  following : 

"  In  the  sixth  year  of  the  reign  of  Kai-Kwa-Tenno, 
152  B.  C.,  the  site  of  this  cave  was  the  abode  of  a  terri- 
ble dragon,  who  devoured  the  children  of  the  village  of 
Koshigoe.  About  that  time  there  was  a  violent  earth- 
quake. Black  clouds  covered  the  sea,  and  the  waves 
mounted  to  heaven.  Celestial  music  was  heard,  and  in 
a  rift  of  the  clouds  appeared  the  divinely  beautiful  Ben- 
ten,  the  Buddhist  Goddess  of  Luck,  accompanied  by  two 
lovely  boys.  The  island  of  Enoshinia  suddenly  rising 
from  the  waters,  she  descended  to  it,  subjugated  the 
dragon,  and  was  worshiped  by  all  the  inhabitants 
along  the  coast." 

Her  image,  now  removed,  was  placed  by  Yoritomo  in 
this  cave  in  the  year  1182  A.  D.  The  various  accounts 
confuse  one  as  to  the  actual  history  of  the  discovery  of 
the  cave.  Be  that  as  it  may,  this  is  a  most  picturesque 
spot.  Looking  into  the  cave,  you  would  imagine  it  to 
be  at  least  forty  feet  high.  As  we  enter  the  waves  come 
rushing  with  great  force  to  our  very  feet,  as  if  angry  at 
our  intrusion.  At  a  distance  of  about  a  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  we  are  supplied  with  candles  to  illuminate  the 
gloomy  depths.  The  cave  becomes  smaller  and  smaller 
as  we  advance.  Here  is  a  little  shrine  at  which  we  are 
expected  to  make  an  offering  of  a  few  sen  for  safe  de- 
liverance secured  by  this  special  god. 


l68          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

The  space  is  iiow  so  narrow  and  low  that  after  going 
one  hundred  feet  farther,  we  must  stoop  to  prevent  our 
heads  from  bumping  against  the  roof.  Now  we  creep 
through  an  opening  of  not  more  than  three  feet,  and 
we  continue  in  this  cramped  position  for  a  distance  of 
apparently  about  fifty  feet,  when  we  are  at  the  end  of 
the  cave.  How  dark,  damp,  and  still  it  is  !  Our  flick- 
ering candles  cast  about  us  an  uncanny  yellow  light, 
and  many  strange  thoughts  flit  through  our  brains. 
What  if  this  spot  is  really  haunted  by  a  powerful  god- 
dess, who  could  appear,  and  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye 
transport  us  to  some  undreamt  of  realm  !  I  think  it 
wise  to  offer  a  prayer  to  this  goddess  of  luck  to  get  us 
safely  out  of  this  wet  and  unattractive  chamber. 

After  some  twenty  minutes  more  of  this  meditation, 
we  retrace  our  steps,  and  gladly  breathe  the  pure  air 
again  with  a  clear  sky  above  us. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  cave  we  notice  a  Japanese 
athlete  standing  naked,  excepting  the  loin-cloth  about  his 
waist,  and  poised  on  the  very  edge  of  a  huge  rock  that 
overhangs  the  sea.  The  guide  informs  us  that  he  is  a 
diver,  and  for  a  few  sen  will  plunge  to  the  bottom  of  the 
sea,  a  depth  of  thirty  feet,  and,  as  an  evidence  of  this  feat, 
will  bring  up  shells  gathered  there.  I  cheerfully  hand 
the  trifling  sum  required,  five  sen,  for  the  performance 
of  this  hazardous  undertaking.  Waiting  for  an  enor- 
mous wave  to  reach  the  edge  of  the  rock  on  which  he 


KAMAKURA    AND    ENOSHIMA.  169 

stands,  the  diver  plunges  into  its  threatening  crest  and 
is  lost  to  sight  for  fully  a  minute.  Just  as  I  am  begin- 
ning to  feel  uneasy,  a  black  spot  becomes  visible  on  a 
breaker  that  is  hissing  towards  us,  and  as  the  wave 
rushes  onward,  the  speck  proves  to  be  the  form  of  the 
diver.  He  is  literally  carried  upon  its  back  and  landed 
safely  on  the  rock  from  which  he  plunged.  He  holds 
in  his  hand  some  beautiful  shells  of  mother-of-pearl. 
As  I  am  relieved  of  my  painful  apprehensions  by  see- 
ing the  fellow  safe  and  sound,  I  double  my  contribu- 
tion, which  seems  to  please  him  immensely. 

We  walk  back  to  our  jinrikishas,  and  again  partake  of 
the  hospitality  of  the  polite  landlady,  and  are  off  for 
Yokohama,  which  we  reach  in  good  time. 

The  next  few  days  are  spent  in  resting  and  making 
preparations  for  our  tour  through  northern  and  west- 
ern Japan. 

In  making  this  journey  to  the  interior,  it  is  necessary 
to  be  provided  with  an  extra  quantity  of  clothing, 
money,  flea  powder,  shoes,  towels,  soap,  and  medicine, 
as  such  articles  are  not  to  be  purchased  in  any  but  the 
open  port  cities. 

We  leave  Yokohama  reluctantly,  for  our  reception  by 
both  English  and  American  residents  has  been  most 
cordial,  and  we  have  felt  very  much  at  home.  In 
traveling  in  Japan  and  Hawaii,  as  well,  much  of  the 
tourist's  pleasure  depends  upon  his  letters  of  introduc- 


170          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

tiou,  which  are  absolutely  necessary  if  he  wishes  to  be 
taken  into  the  social  life  of  the  small  English  and 
American  resident  population  of  these  places.  In 
Europe  one  may  travel  upon  his  own  merits,  but  it  is 
not  wise  to  attempt  to  do  so  here. 

I  will  here  explain  the  money  system  of  Japan.  The 
values  are  decimal,  with  the  yen,  or  silver  dollar,  as 
the  unit. 

One  yen  contains  100  sen ;  one  sen  contains  10  rin. 
Gold  is  practically  never  seen.  The  silver  pieces  are  : 
One  yen,  50  sen,  20  sen,  10  sen,  5  sen.  The  nickel 
piece,  5  sen.  Copper  pieces:  2  sen,  i  sen,  5  rin,  i  rin. 
Besides  others  issued  during  feudal  days,  representing : 
i^  rin,  8  rin  (these  are  oblong  pieces,  called  tempo, 
now  rarely  seen).  Paper  money  is  issued  to  values  of 
20  sen,  50  sen,  i  yen,  5  yen,  and  various  larger  sums. 


NOTE. — Japan  has  a  territorial  area  of  156,000  square  miles,  comprising 
30,000,000  acres  of  cultivated  land,  or  an  amount  equal  to  that  of  the  State 
of  Illinois. 

The  United  States  has  3,400,000  square  miles,  of  which  700,000,000  acres 
are  susceptible  to  the  highest  state  of  cultivation. 

The  total  population  of  Japan  in  1892  was  40,718,677  souls.  The  popu- 
lation of  the  United  States  at  the  last  census  taken  in  1890,  was  62,622,250. 

Japan  is  called  by  the  Chinese  "Jipango,"  which,  being  translated, 
means  the  original  sun  country,  or  the  land  of  the  rising  sun,  because  to 
them  the  sun  always  seems  to  rise  from  Japan. 


TOKYO  AND  THE  TEMPLES  OF  NIKKO. 

Off  for  Tokyo— city  walls — imperial  passport — Atago-yama—  en  route 
for  Nikko — Cryptomerias— Reiheishi  Kaido — Nikko — temples  and  tem- 
ples—photographs— great  gate — "The  Sleeping  Cat" — Koshin — wind 
and  thunder  devils —sacred  stable — red  bridge— Inari,  Goddess  of  Rice 
— Suminohi— Nantai-zan — Daiya-gawa — images  of  Amida — temple  of 
Jokoji— God  of  children — to  Ashio — Dainichi-do— snake  garden — pil- 
grims—Buddhist and  Shintoist — Chuzenji — Hannya  and  Hodo— the 
Young  Prince — Kegon-no-taki. 

WE  leave  Yokohama  on  the  morning  of  August  25th 
by  train  for  Tokyo.  Rates  of  travel  here  are  about  the 
same  as  those  in  America.  There  is  little  worthy  of 
note  on  this  trip  of  eighteen  miles,  occupying  about 
fifty  minutes.  On  either  side  of  the  road  are  field  after 
field  of  rice,  with  here  and  there  patches  of  lotus  in  full 
bloom.  Occasionally  we  pass  a  brewery,  for  the  modern 
Japanese  finds  that  a  large  majority  is  demanding  the 
more  civilized  drink  of  beer  in  preference  to  the  ancient 
and  universal  sake. 

Much  of  the  rice  is  near  perfection  and  some  of  it 
quite  ready  for  the  harvest.  Rice  is  planted  here,  as 
elsewhere  throughout  Japan,  at  different  periods,  thus 
there  is  a  certain  amount  to  be  cut  at  various  seasons, 
unlike  our  American  grains,  which  have  but  one  period 
for  being  harvested. 

171 


IJ2          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

Here  are  many  vineyards  and  large  truck  fields, 
yielding  fruit  and  vegetables.  The  farms,  generally, 
are  irrigated  ;  in  many  places  the  water  flow's  naturally 
from  adjacent  streams,  while  at  other  points  it  is  neces- 
sary to  dig  wells. 

In  the  distance  we  can  see  the  city  of  Tokyo,  which 
has  a  population  of  600,000.  The  low  houses  of  only 
one  and  two  stories  are  in  strong  contrast  to  New  York 
and  Chicago,  with  their  skyscrapers  of  fifteen  and 
twenty  stories. 

Arriving  at  our  destination,  we  take  jinrikishas  to 
the  "  Imperial,"  a  very  spacious  and  imposing  stone 
structure,  and  one  of  the  best  foreign  hotels  in  the  place. 
Here  we  have  pleasant  rooms. 

A  portion  of  the  city  is  enclosed  by  a  high  and  mas- 
sive stone  wall,  surrounded  by  a  moat.  Within  this 
enclosure  is  the  palace  of  the  Mikado,  a  modern  build- 
ing of  semi-foreign  architecture.  The  imperial  grounds 
are  entered  through  open  gates  guarded  by  armed  sen- 
tinels. The  Imperial  Hotel  is  also  within  the  enclo- 
sure, as  well  as  many  shops  and  residences. 

Upon  arriving  at  Tokyo,  our  first  duty  after  tiffin  is 
to  visit  the  American  Minister,  Mr.  Edwin  Dun.  Call- 
ing at  his  residence,  we  learn  that  he  has  left  the  city, 
and  will  not  return  for  several  days.  As  we  wish  to  go 
on  to  Nikko  to-morrow,  we  ask  his  affable  representa- 
tive to  grant  us  an  "  imperial  "  passport,  that  is  a  pass- 


TOKYO   AND  THE  TEMPLES   OF  NIKKO. 


TOKYO   AND   THE   TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO.  175 

port  that  will  admit  us  to  every  part  of  Japan  without 
any  restrictions  whatever.  We  receive  this,  together 
with  influential  letters,  opening  to  us  the  doors  of  many 
temples  and  other  places  generally  difficult  of  access. 
Now  we  hold  the  key  that  will  unlock  the  barriers 
that  might  otherwise  obstruct  our  way. 

These  imperial  passports  are  not  often  granted,  and 
only  as  a  personal  favor  to  special  friends  of  the  Ameri- 
can minister.  We  were  fortunate  enough  to  be 
pleasantly  associated  with  Mr.  Dun  on  the  steamer 
"  China,"  and  he  then  promised  us  this  passport. 

An  ordinary  passport  is  issued  for  tourists  in  general, 
extending  to  certain  localities  only.  Those  who  wish 
to  go  beyond  the  limits  prescribed  in  this  must  apply 
to  the  minister  for  additional  privileges. 

This  afternoon  we  take  jinrikishas  and  ride  to  the 
foot  of  Atago-yama,  which  resembles  many  other 
places  of  the  kind,  and  has  two  flights  of  stone  steps 
leading  to  the  top.  One  of  these,  called  the  men's 
stairway,  is  straight  and  steep,  while  the  woman's  stair- 
way is  circuitous  and  less  fatiguing.  We  have  a  fine 
view  from  the  hilltop.  In  the  distance  we  can  plainly 
see  Fuji-yama  and  the  city  of  Tokyo.  A  small  tem- 
ple, called  Atago,  is  here.  Atago  is  properly  the  name 
of  a  divinity,  and  the  widely  spread  use  of  it — for  there 
are  Atago-yamas  all  over  Japan — is  attributable  to  the 
fact  that  the  god  especially  protects  towns  against  fire. 


i;6          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

He  is  an  incarnation  of  the  creatress  Izanami  and  of 
her  last-born  child  Homusubi,  the  god  of  fire,  whose 
birth  caused  her  death.  From  this  point  we  can  see 
the  roof  of  the  imperial  palace,  with  the  beautiful 
woods  and  gardens  surrounding  it.  This  palace  has 
been  the  residence  of  his  majesty,  the  Mikado,  since 
1889.  It  is  said  to  have  cost  more  than  three  millions 
of  dollars. 

Descending  the  hill,  we  enter  our  jinrikishas,  pre- 
pared for  an  hour  or  two  of  shopping.  A  shower  comes 
on,  but  the  leather  covering  of  the  jinrikishas  and  the 
oil  cloth  drawn  up  in  front  protect  us  thoroughly.  We 
visit  many  of  the  most  noted  shops  of  the  ivory  carver, 
wood-worker,  and  bronze-molder,  and  use  the  remainder 
of  the  day  in  preparing  for  our  journey  to  Nikko. 

I  "was  startled  out  of  a  sound  sleep  this  morning  by 
the  blowing  of  whistles,  and  jumped  up  quickly  to 
learn  the  cause.  Had  we  been  suddenly  transported 
to  Philadelphia,  where  the  factory  whistles  blow  at 
seven  o'clock  every  morning  ?  No ;  we  are  still  in 
Tokyo,  and  the  hour  is  six  in  the  morning,  when  the 
steam  whistles  blow  to  notify  the  workmen  that  it  is 
time  to  begin  their  daily  labors. 

We  take  an  early  train  for  Nikko,  a  distance  of 
ninety-one  miles,  or  thereabout,  which  we  expect  to  ac- 
complish in  five  and  one-half  or  six  hours.  Our  route 
is  not  very  interesting.  The  farms  on  either  side  of 


TOKYO   AND  THE   TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO. 


177 


the  railroad  are  well  cultivated,  the  chief  product  being 
rice.  Much  truck  is  raised,  such  as  sweet  potatoes, 
beans,  and  lettuce.  All  these  fields  are  irrigated  from 
rivers  and  streams  close  by.  The  fields  are  not  sepa- 
rated by  fences  or  hedges,  the  only  distinction  being  the 
difference  in  vegetation.  As  we  approach  the  village  of 


THE  VILLAGE  OF  HACHI-ISHI. 

Hachi-Ishi  we  see  a  beautiful  road,  bordered  on  either  side 
by  lofty  and  majestic  cryptomerias.  This  picturesque 
highway  runs  parallel  with  the  railroad  for  fully  ten 
miles.  It  is  called  Reiheishi  Kaido  (kaido  signifies 
highway).  It  is  so  called  because  in  olden  times  the 
Reiheishi,  or  Envoy  of  the  Mikado,  used  to  travel  along 
12 


178          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

it,  bearing  gifts  from  his  imperial  master  to  be  offered 
at  the  Mausoleum  of  leyasu. 

At  last  we  reach  Nikko.  What  a  scene  of  beauty 
and  grandeur  is  before  us !  A  popular  Japanese 
proverb  says,  "  Nikko  wo  minai  uchi  wa,  '  kekko '  to  iu 
na !"  ("  Do  not  use  the  word  '  magnificent '  until  you 
have  seen  Nikko.")  Here  nature  and  art  combine  to 
form  one  of  the  most  wonderful  places  on  the  earth. 
Mountains,  cascades,  monumental  forest  trees  have 
always  been  here.  In  the  seventeenth  century,  to  these 
were  added  the  mausolea  of  the  illustrious  Shogun 
leyasu,  founder  of  the  Tokugawa  dynasty,  and  of  his 
scarcely  less  famous  grandson,  lemitsu. 

We  are  surrounded  by  stately  mountains,  the  greatest 
of  which,  the  noted  Nantai-zan,  towers  high  above  its 
neighbors.  Taking  jinrikishas,  we  proceed  to  the 
Nikko  hotel,  a  mile  and  one-half  from  the  station.  By 
this  time  we  are  quite  accustomed  to  the  Japanese  car- 
riage. Though  at  first  one  is  apt  to  pity  the  poor  men 
in  their  labor  of  drawing  him  up  and  down  the  hills,  in 
this  age  of  travel,  one's  nerves  and  feelings  soon  be- 
come hardened.  Reaching  the  hotel  upon  the  moun- 
tain side,  some  two  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  we 
learn,  to  our  disappointment,  that  it  is  filled  to  over- 
flowing. 

Nikko  is  the  popular  resort  of  foreigners  residing  in 
Yokohama,  Tokyo,  and  the  other  large  cities.  It  is  said 


TOKYO   AND   THE  TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO.  179 

that  earthquakes,  so  frequent  in  Japan,  do  not  occur  in 
this  region.  It  is  noted  as  the  mart  for  such  skins  as 
the  badger,  deer,  marten,  wild  boar,  etc.,  from  which 
slippers  and  other  articles  of  European  wear  are 
manufactured.  Various  dishes,  cups,  trays,  and  curios 
are  also  found  here,  made  of  jindaiboku,  a  fossil  wood, 
brought  hither  from  Sendai.  After  many  gesticula- 
tions, much  talk,  and  a  vast  amount  of  patience,  the 
latter  a  very  necessary  virtue  in  Japan,  we  are  accom- 
modated with  rooms,  and,  being  tired,  we  bundle  off  to 
bed  after  a  semi-foreign  dinner,  hardly  realizing  that  at 
last  we  have  arrived  at  one  of  the  most  famous  resorts 
in  all  Japan.  We  rise  bright  and  early,  rested,  and 
ready  to  "  do  "  Nikko. 

The  very  thought  of  visiting  all  the  innumerable 
temples  and  shrines  of  this  part  of  Japan  is  enough  to 
exhaust  one's  brain  at  the  outset.  Yes,  the  temples  are 
inexhaustible  !  We  must  see  "  some"  of  them  ;  and  after 
a  leisurely  survey  of  the  situation  we  will  select  only 
the  masterpieces  of  ancient  Japanese  art.  We  devote  two 
days  to  the  temples,  and  I  cannot  begin  to  tell  you  what 
two  days  of  sight-seeing  in  the  temples  means.  The 
beauty  of  architecture  and  construction,  the  carving, 
the  gold,  silver,  and  bronze  ornaments,  the  decorations, 
all  dazzle  the  eyes,  and  the  brain  is  wearied  by  the  mul- 
tiplicity of  grandeur.  Most  of  these  temples  are  sur- 
rounded by  the  sacred  cryptomerias.  Pilgrims  and 


l8o          VACATION    DAYS  IN   HAWAII  AND  JAPAN. 

travelers  come  from  far  and  near  to  behold  the  great 
works  of  their  ancestors,  and  offer  prayers  to  the  various 
gods.  I  have  already  taken  many  photographs  within 
the  sacred  enclosures,  and  am  still  at  work,  when  a  man 
rushes  breathlessly  up  to  me,  declaring  that  I  am  doing 
a  sacrilegious  thing.  I  instantly  put  my  camera  in  its 


1    MOST  OF  THESE  TEMPLES  ARE  SURROUNDED  BY  THE  CRYPTOMERIAS. 

case,  and  am  walking  away,  when  he  intimates  that  I 
may  continue  my  work  if  I  will  pay  for  the  privilege. 
As  I  have  taken  all  the  pictures  I  desire,  I  decline  his 
offer. 

I  will  mention  a  few  of  the  interesting  sights  among 
the  famous  temples  of  Nikko.     The  "  Great  Gate  "  is 


TOKYO   AND   THE   TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO. 


181 


filled  with  elaborate  carvings  of  various  birds  and  ani- 
mals. The  elegance  of  this  gate  is  in  keeping  with  the 
grandeur  of  the  temples.  The  interior  of  the  lyeyasu 
temple  is  of  superb  splendor,  even  the  ceilings  being 
elaborately  decorated.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the 
lyemitsu  temple,  the  gorgeousness  of  whose  surround- 


THIS  GROUP   REPRESENTS  THE  BLIND,  DEAF,  AND  DUMB  MONKKVS. 

ings  can  be  appreciated  only  by  a  visit  in  person.     The 
carving  on  many  of  the  doors  is  marvelous. 

Ascending  several  flights  of  stone  steps  we  approach 
the  mausoleum  of  the  ancient  founder.  Over  one  of 
the  gates  may  be  seen  the  famous  carving  in  wood  of 
"  The  Sleeping  Cat,"  the  most  celebrated  work  of  Hidari 


1 82  VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

Gingoro,  also  a  well  executed  group  of  monkeys,  called 
Koshiu.  This  group  represents  a  blind  monkey,  a  deaf 
monkey,  and  a  dumb  monkey,  and  is  symbolic  of  the 
Japanese  principle,  never  to  see,  hear,  or  speak  evil  of 


WIND  DEVIL. 


any  one.  Throughout  Japan  you  will  everywhere  see 
slabs  of  stone  and  wood  with  this  group  of  monkeys  in 
relief  upon  them. 


TOKYO   AND   THE   TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO.  183 

Upon  either  side  of  the  gateway  are  wooden  images 
of  the  "  Wind  Devil,"  which  is  supposed  to  rule  the 
winds,  and  the  "  Thunder  Devil,"  who  controls  the 
storms. 

These  images,  called  Mio,  are  placed  here  to  guard 
the  sacred  temple.  We  visit  also  the  stable  in  which  is 
the  sacred  white  pony,  kept  for  the  use  of  the  god.  The 
workmanship  of  this  bronze  portal  is  of  wonderful 
beauty.  Here  we  have  a  fine  concentrated  view  of  this 
whole  group  of  temples,  and  the  splendor  of  this  con- 
secrated spot. 

A  short  walk  from  the  temple  brings  us  to  the  Red 
Bridge,  or  Mi  Hashi,  which  is  worthy  of  note.  It  spans 
the  Daiya  gawa,  and  may  be  viewed  from  another  and 
public  bridge,  a  few  feet  lower  down  the  stream.  From 
this  last  we  look  upon  the  scene  before  us  in  wonder 
and  admiration. 

In  the  background  are  lofty  mountains  clad  in  verdure, 
towering  thousands  of  feet  heavenward,  while  at  their 
base  the  beautiful  waters  of  the  Daiya  gawa  flow  in 
rapid  and  tempestuous  course.  In  the  foreground  is 
the  Mi  Hashi,  the  sacred  bridge,  formerly  closed  to  all 
persons  but  the  Shogun,  excepting  twice  a  year,  when 
it  was  opened  to  pilgrims.  It  stands  upon  a  spot 
where,  according  to  legend,  the  saint  Shodo  Shonin 
crossed  the  stream  on  a  holy  mission.  It  is  about 
eighty-four  feet  long  and  eighteen  feet  wide,  and 


184          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

was  built  A.  D.  1638.     Its  gates  are  closed  and  securely 
locked. 

We    take     many   beautiful    trips    over    the    moun- 
tains   and    into    the    neighboring    villages,    and   are 


THUNDER  DEVIL. 


never  weary  of  this  unlimited  pleasure-ground  of  the 
tourist. 

We  take  over  and  over  again  the  picturesque  ride  to 


TOKYO   AND   THE   TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO.  185 

Hachi  Ishi.  In  this  ride  we  pass  a  little  temple  stand- 
ing aside  from  the  road,  and  dedicated  to  Inari,  the  god- 
dess of  rice.  The  figure  of  a  fox,  which  is  always 
found  in  the  temples  of  Inari,  is  not,  as  some  suppose, 
a  tribute  to  the  fear  inspired  by  that  wily  beast.  Inari 
is  the  fox  deity. 

In  this  temple,  screened  from  public  view,  are  many 
large  and  small  images  of  the  sexual  organ  of  man, 
some  weighing  about  three  hundred  pounds.  I  learn 
that  these  images,  formerly  worshiped  by  the  natives, 
were  removed  from  their  temple  some  ten  years  ago  by 
an  edict  of  the  government. 

A  heavy  rain,  a  frequent  occurrence  in  these  moun- 
tains, keeps  us  prisoners  in  the  hotel.  This  "  rain 
rest "  is  a  welcome  event  to  the  tourist,  giving  him  not 
only  the  needed  repose  for  body  and  brain,  but  also  time 
for  letter-writing  and  repairs. 

To-day  is  chilly  and  unpleasant,  as  neither  stoves  nor 
furnaces  are  known  in  Japan,  outside  the  large  cities, 
and  travelers,  when  cold,  must  resort  to  extra  clothing. 
There  is,  it  is  true,  a  wooden  box  filled  with  ashes, 
upon  which  red-hot  charcoal  is  laid.  These  fires  are 
called  Hibashi  or  Suminohi,  meaning  charcoal  fire. 
They  are  common  throughout  Japan,  being  the  only 
means  of  affording  heat  to  the  houshold.  During  the 
cold  weather  a  native  will  frequently  wear  four  or  five 
kimonos  at  one  time. 


1 86          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

The  rainy  days  are  also  useful  in  planning  trips. 
We  are  attentively  studying  our  maps  with  reference 
to  a  journey  to  the  interior  of  this  country. 

After  a  good  rest  we  start  out  with  renewed  strength 
for  a  little  more  sightseeing.  The  day  being  fair,  our 
guide  has  forestalled  all  discussions  as  to  plans  by  se- 


THE  GREAT  GATE. 


curing  jinrikishas  for  a  little  tour  to  some  neighboring 
places. 

A  half-hour's  ride  brings  us  to  a  little  tea  house, 
where  we  stop  for  rest  and  refreshments,  sitting  on  the 
floor,  as  is  the  custom.  The  great  Nantai-zan  (zan, 
mountain)  rising  to  a  height  of  eight  thousand  one 


TOKYO   AND   THE   TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO.  187 

hundred  and  fifty  feet,  is  on  our  right,  some  distance 
away.  What  a  gloriously  beautiful  mountain  !  The 
clouds  clustering  about  its  lofty  peaks  partly  hide  them 
from  view.  The  purple  and  blue  tints  that  color  its 
giant  form,  with  the  more  delicate  shades  of  green  at 
its  base,  render  it  a  study  for  the  palette  of  the  skilful 
artist.  On  our  left  is  the  Nikko  range,  also  clothed 
in  varied  hues.  At  our  feet  is  the  Gamman-ga-fuchi, 
one  of  many  pools  that  may  be  seen  in  the  Daiya  gawa. 
How  the  waters  seethe  and  boil,  washing  continually 
the  huge  boulders  that  line  the  banks  on  either  side. 
As  we  descend  these  banks  we  are  obliged  to  use  great 
care  lest  we  slip  on  the  wet  moss-covered  rocks  and  be 
carried  away  by  the  rushing  torrent,  now  swollen  by 
heavy  rains. 

There  are  many  idols  and  images  with  historic  records 
in  the  various  niches  of  the  rocks.  On  the  opposite 
bank  a  hundred  small  figures  placed  in  a  row  are  called 
the  "  Images  of  Amida." 

As  we  look  at  them  we  feel  that  ancestry  is  scanning 
us,  and  a  hundred  voices  greeting  us  with  the  words, 
"O-hayo,"  as  we  pass  by.  Once  more  we  are  in  our 
jinrikishas,  still  following  the  road  that  skirts  the 
pretty  Daiya  gawa.  This  stream  has  its  source  in 
Lake  Chuzenji,  upon  the  Nantai-zan. 

Now  we  turn  our  faces  homeward,  stopping,  how- 
ever, at  the  Temple  of  Jokoji,  which  is  near  the  hotel. 


l88          VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

Passing  through  a  gate  of  exquisite  beauty,  we  enter 
the  sacred  grounds,  which  seem  to  have  been  used  as  a 
cemetery,  for  hundreds  of  tombstones  are  erected  here ; 
they  are  of  every  shape,  and  present  a  strange  appear- 
ance. Many  stone  lanterns  stand  within  the  enclosure, 
memorials  of  priests  and  other  celebrities  who  once 


INTERIOR  OF  IYEMITSU  TEMPLE. 

lived  on  the  earth,  but  have  now  taken  their  places  in 
the  Celestial  world.  A  stone  image,  fully  six  feet  high, 
attracts  our  attention.  This  is  Koyasu-Jizo,  the  god  of 
children.  His  image  is  covered  with  pieces  of  red  and 
white  linen  of  all  sizes.  It  is  said  that  mothers  of 
newly-born  babes  bring  these  offerings  and  tie  them"  on 


TOKYO   AND   THE   TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO. 


189 


the  idol,  that  he  may  care  for  their  children  and  pro- 
tect them  from  sickness  all  their  lives.  Or,  if  children 
are  sick,  a  strip  of  cloth  is  suspended  from  the  image 
by  the  mother,  with  prayers  that  they  may  be  healed. 


KOYASU-JlZO,   THE    GOD    OF    CHILDREN. 

To-day  we  go  to  Lake  Chuzenji.  Breakfast  is  over, 
and  at  8.30  onr  guide  is  at  the  door  with  jinrikishas 
and  three  men  to  each  wagon.  That  means  that  the 


VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

journey  is  to  be  a  hard  one.  The  sky  is  clear  and  the 
air  cool,  and  with  fleet-footed  men  we  go  at  a  good  pace. 
Our  road  is  along  the  bank  of  the  Daiya  gawa,  and  is 
the  highway  between  Nikko  and  Ashio.  After  riding 
a  short  distance  we  reach  the  Dainechi-do,  which  means 
the  temple  of  the  sun  goddess.  Here  we  alight  and 
enter  a  pretty  garden,  taking  some  refreshment  at  the 
tea  house  within.  This  garden  is  well  worth  a  visit,  not 
only  the  perfect  type  of  a  beautiful  Japanese  garden,  but 
also  on  account  of  a  large  spring  which  oozes  out  of  the 
earth  and  forms  a  lake.  The  water  is  pure  and  cool, 
coming  directly  from  the  mountain  beyond.  In  the  cen- 
tre of  the  spring  a  small  stone  image  is  supported  by 
stone  slabs.  This  is  Ugagin,  or  the  Snake  Garden. 

Yesterday  we  saw  the  Prince,  son  of  the  Mikado  and 
heir  to  the  throne  of  Japan,  resting  in  this  garden,  sur- 
rounded by  a  staff  of  officers.  He  is  a  lad  of  seventeen, 
rather  prepossessing  in  appearance.  We  learn  that  he 
is  making  a  minute  tour  of  his  native  country.  At 
many  places  along  the  route  we  see  evidences  of  his 
visits  in  extra  decorations  and  arches  of  green. 

As  we  continue,  we  find  the  road  rough  and  stony. 
Our  frail  carriages  are  pitched  to  and  fro,  and  it  is  a 
mystery  how  we  are  carried  for  miles  along  such  paths 
without  a  breakdown.  On  the  way  we  see  caravans  of 
horses,  heavily  laden  with  all  kinds  of  merchandise,  and 
led  by  a  man  or  woman,  it  is  hard  to  tell  which ;  the 


TOKYO    AND   THE   TEMPLES    OF   NIKKO. 

dress  is  precisely  the  same,  only  the  women  often  wear 
some  kind  of  white  linen  head-gear.  We  pass  many 
women  and  small  girls,  carrying  great  wicker  baskets 
filled  with  green  grass.  Some  of  them  are  so  small 
that  they  bend  almost  double  beneath  their  heavy 
burdens. 


As  WE  CONTINUE  WE  FIND  THE  ROAD  ROUGH  AND  STONY. 

At  various  times  we  see  groups  of  four  or  five  women 
dressed  in  peculiar  costumes.  These  are  pilgrims  on 
the  way  to  the  temples  in  and  about  Nikko.  These 
devotees  will  walk  miles  at  certain  times  in  the  year,  to 
worship  at  some  particular  shrine  of  Shinto,  or  temple 
of  Buddha.  Although  the  Shinto  religion  is  indigenous 


192          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

to  Japan,  there  are  here  many  followers  of  Buddha.  It 
is  not  uncommon  for  one  to  be  born  a  Shintoist,  and  die 
a  Buddhist. 

Here  comes  a  curious  looking  man.  He  carries  a 
tray  upon  his  head,  containing  cakes  and  pies,  and  calls 
out  his  wares  in  a  loud  voice  as  he  goes  along. 


Now  THE  SCENERY  BECOMES  STILL  MORE  BEAUTIFUL. 

Our  little  human  horses  run  briskly,  crying  out : 
"  Hi !  Hi !  Hi !"  to  any  carts  or  persons  that  obstruct 
the  way,  and  we,  interested  in  our  experiences,  heed 
little  the  bumps  and  joltings  that  now  and  then  fall  to 
our  lot. 

We  now  come  to  a  fork  in  the  road,  called  Futamiya. 


TOKYO   AND   THE   TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO.  193 

The  main  road  leads  to  Asliio,  while  the  path  to  the 
right  goes  to  Chuzenji,  and  this  latter  one  we  take. 
Our  way  is  still  bounded  by  the  stream  whose  pure 
waters  come  from  Lake  Chuzenji.  Now  the  scenery 
becomes  still  more  beautiful,  woods  and  mountains 
completely  surrounding  us,  while  the  picturesque 
stream,  in  its  tempestuous  flow,  beats  against  the 
thousands  of  boulders  of  all  sizes  that  lie  in  its  path,  at 
times  throwing  its  spray  high  in  the  air.  Thus  we 
have  a  beautiful  accompaniment  to  our  journey. 

The  path  grows  narrower  as  we  penetrate  the  canon, 
sometimes  barely  allowing  a  passage  for  the  jinrikishas. 
On  one  side  is  the  stream,  ten  or  fifteen  feet  below  us, 
on  the  other  towers  the  mountain,  several  hundred  feet 
above  us,  a  solid  wall  of  granite.  Occasionally  a  small 
bridle  stream  winds  its  way  down  the  mountain  side. 
We  are  gradually  ascending,  step  by  step.  As  Lake 
Chuzenji  lies  at  an  altitude  of  four  thousand  three 
hundred  and  seventy-five  feet,  and  Nikko  is  two  thou- 
sand feet  above  sea  level,  we  must  climb  two  thousand 
three  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  before  we  can  look 
upon  this  body  of  water. 

At  last  we  reach  the  hamlet  of  Uma-gaeshi,  meaning 
literally  "  horse-send-back."  Our  guide  tells  me  that 
formerly  ascent  to  the  lake  was  made  on  horseback,  and 
this  hamlet  takes  its  name  from  the  fact  that  at  this 
point  the  horses  were  sent  back.  Here  we  stop  at 
13 


194          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

one  of  the  maiiy  tea  houses,  where  we  have  some 
good  hot  tea,  arid  finish  off  with  a  bottle  of  "  Japanese  " 
brewed  beer.  Our  faithful  men  also  enjoy  their  rest, 
and  rice  and  tea. 

From  this  point  the  ascent  is  steep  and  difficult.  My 
guide  tells  me  that  men  are  rarely  or  never  carried  up 
the  mountain  from  this  point ;  that  only  the  ladies 
remain  in  the  jinrikishas.  At  this  I  take  off  my  coat 
and  vest,  and  rolling  up  my  sleeves  and  trousers,  pre- 
pare, with  a  stout  staff,  to  climb  by  steep  and  short  cuts, 
through  the  thick  brush  and  undergrowth,  while  the 
ladies  sit  in  the  jinrikishas,  and  are  pushed  and  hauled 
up  by  five  men  to  each  wagon.  The  path  is  wet,  muddy, 
and  unpleasant,  barely  wide  enough  to  walk,  and  at 
times  so  slippery  that  I  seat  myself  unexpectedly  in  its 
uninviting  arms,  much  to  the  detriment  of  my  trousers 
and  appearance  generally.  However,  I  comfort  myself 
with  the  thought  that  the  road  to  all  good  things  is  a 
hard  one,  and  push  on  and  on,  sure  of  being  amply 
rewarded  in  the  end.  By  this  time,  what  with  the  heat 
of  the  day  and  my  great  exertions,  I  am  perspiring 
profusely. 

While  resting  at  the  hamlet,  we  saw  several  Japanese 
ladies  descending  from  the  lake  by  means  of  the  yam  a 
kago,  a  small  chair  suspended  from  a  pole  carried  by 
two  coolies.  The  term  yama  kago  means  literally 
"  mountain  chair." 


TOKYO   AND   THE   TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO. 


195 


As  we  climb,  we  can  see  the  road  winding  away  below 
us.  Now  we  rest  at  the  Missawa  tea  house.  From  this 
point  the  scene  is  wilder  and  more  picturesque.  Again 
we  plunge  into  the  dense  undergrowth  of  the  woods, 
following  a  narrow  path. 

Another  opening,  where  there  are  several  tea  houses. 


WE  SAW  SEVERAL  JAPANESE  LADIES  DESCENDING  FROM  THE  LAKE  BY 
MEANS  OF  THE  YAMA  KAGO. 

What  a  magnificent  view !  Far  down  in  the  canon  can 
be  seen  scattered  tea  houses,  looking  like  children's 
toys,  while  before  us  rise  lofty  summits,  clothed  in 
green.  At  some  distance  on  the  left,  a  beautiful  water- 
fall may  be  seen  rushing  forth  from  a  deep  crevice  in 


196          VACATION   DAYS  IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

the  mountain,  full  seveuty  feet  in  height.  This  fall  is 
named  "Hauuya,"  while  ou  the  right,  not  far  from  its 
companion,  is  a  smaller  stream,  falling  to  a  great 
depth  below.  This  cascade  is  called  "  Hodo." 

We  rest  a  half-hour,  and  take  some  refreshment,  then 
continue  the  ascent.  This  part  is  rougher  and  more 
arduous  than  any  previous  experience.  At  last  we  are 
rewarded  by  seeing  Chuzenji  Mountain  at  our  feet,  for 
we  have  really  reached  the  summit.  Joining  the  rest 
of  the  party,  we  ride  a  short  distance  to  the  lake.  A 
number  of  cottages  are  situated  upon  its  shore,  for  this 
is  a  summer  resort  for  many  English  and  American 
families. 

We  go  to  the  best  Japanese  inn  for  tiffin.  This  inn 
is  named  Komeva,  meaning  "  rice  house."  Engaging 
a  room,  our  guide  requests  the  landlord  to  furnish  us 
with  a  table  and  chairs.  Soon  the  luncheon  is  on  the 
table.  Knives,  forks,  spoons,  and  dishes  are  provided, 
and  we  eat  tiffin  in  American  style,  our  guide,  as  usual, 
preferring  his  chopsticks  in  an  adjoining  room. 

After  tiffin,  we  view  the  lake  and  enjoy  the  scene  be- 
fore us,  then  visit  some  noted  shrines  and  temples  in 
the  neighborhood.  On  our  way  we  observe  clean  sand 
strewed  along  the  paths  and  green  arches  erected  here 
and  there,  and  upon  asking  the  reason  of  this,  are  in- 
formed that  the  young  prince  visited  the  place  yester- 
day, and  this  is  the  custom  whenever  he  appears. 


TOKYO   AND   THE   TEMPLES   OF   NIKKO. 


197 


We  walk  to  the  temple  of  Futare-san  (name  of  God) , 
also  to  a  number  of  other  interesting  spots,  then  return- 
ing to  the  jinrikishas  ride  to  the  Kegon-no-taki  water- 
fall. This  is  a  magnificent  spectacle.  The  great  vol- 
ume of  water  dashes  wildly  over  a  lofty  precipice  into 
an  enormous  basin, walled  in  with  rocks  two  hundred  and 


LAKE  CHUZENJI. 

fifty  feet  below.  Descending  the  mountain  side,  we 
stand  upon  a  projecting  rock,  from  which  we  have  a 
closer  view  of  the  falls  and  realize  its  extent  and  the 
force  with  which  it  precipitates  itself  into  the  whirl- 
pool. 

Once  more  in  the  jinrikishas  we  begin  our  homeward 


198          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

journey,  the  descent  in  many  places  being  so  steep 
that  we  are  compelled  to  get  out  and  walk. 

The  beauty  of  the  scenes  around  us  cannot  be  de- 
scribed by  pen  or  pencil !  Only  he  who  has  seen  them 
can  feel  the  thrill  here  experienced  in  the  presence  of 
some  of  the  most  sublime  and  wonderful  of  nature's 
handiworks. 

We  reach  the  hotel  in  time  for  a  good  hot  dinner,  to 
which  we  do  ample  justice. 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  JAPAN. 

A  journey  to  the  interior — Outfit — At  the  station — Country  people — 
Omiya  —  Second-class  car — Silk-growing  district — Annaka — Asama- 
yama — Iwafune-san — Miyozi-san — Yokogawa  —  Usui  Pass — Tunnels — 
Karuisawa — Making  a  bed — A  bath — Iwamurata — Chikuma-gawa — Na- 
gano Zenkoji  —  Inarimura-Shimohigano  —  Bowing  -  Tanbajegma — 
Saigawa — Japanese  artists — A  feast — Silk-weaving  mill — Presents — 
Night  watchmen. 

TO-DAY,  Sunday,  we  make  final  preparations  for  a 
tour  through  Central  Japan,  which  will  last  several 
weeks.  Maps  and  guide-books  have  been  studied  and 
the  route  carefully  planned.  We  intend  going  by  rail 
from  Nikko  to  Omiya,  Mae-bashi,  Karui-sawa,  Nagano, 
thence  to  Naoetsu,  the  terminus  of  the  railroad.  By 
jinrikisha  and  on  foot  we  proceed  to  Niigata,  and,  if 
wind  and  weather  are  favorable,  we  will  visit  the 
island  of  Sado,  which  can  be  reached  by  a  small 
steamer  from  the  mainland  in  about  five  hours.  This 
island  is  noted  for  its  gold  and  silver  mines. 

From  Niigata,  still  by  jinrikisha  and  on  foot,  over 
the  mountain  passes,  we  will  go  to  Sendai,  where  we 
again  take  the  railroad  to  Morioka  and  Aomori,  then 
return  to  Nikko. 

My  guide  assures  me  that  this  trip  will  embrace 
beautiful  scenery,  a  strange  country,  and  costumes 

199 


200          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

and  customs  quite  out  of  the  ordinary  line  of  foreign 
travel.  My  object  in  this  journey  is  to  go  far  away 
from  the  beaten  tracks,  and  see  how  the  real  Japanese 
live  at  home,  untainted  and  unaffected  by  the  progress 
of  civilization.  I  learn  that  recent  floods  have  extended 
over  this  section  of  the  country,  also  that  disease  has 
visited  some  of  these  districts — facts  which  may  inter- 
fere to  some  extent  with  my  plans,  but  we  shall  en- 
deavor to  carry  them  out  as  faithfully  as  possible. 

Our  outfit  would  bring  a  smile  to  the  face  of  the 
modern  traveler,  including,  as  it  does,  kimonos,  shoes, 
and  various  articles  of  clothing,  medicine  chest,  candles, 
tobacco,  flea  powder,  cameras,  and  painting  materials, 
as  well  as  provisions,  cooking  utensils,  dishes,  and 
knives  and  forks,  all  of  which  are  necessary  on  leaving 
the  larger  cities. 

The  day  of  starting  is  a  fine  one.  The  sim  shines 
down  in  all  his  glory,  and  it  is  a  superb  morning,  even 
for  "  The  Land  of  the  Rising  Sun."  Up  at  5.30,  and 
warmly  dressed,  after  breakfast  I  find  the  guide  await- 
ing me  with  smiling  face  and  his  morning  greeting, 
"  O-hayo."  The  jinrikishas  are  ready,  and  soon  we 
are  on  our  way  to  the  village  of  Hachi-Ishi,  commonly 
known  as  Nikko.  Arriving  at  the  station,  we  find  a 
number  of  natives,  with  here  and  there  a  foreigner, 
awaiting  the  opening  of  the  gates  that  admit  one  to 
the  train.  This  crowd  of  travelers  is  very  interesting 


IN   THE   HEART   OF  JAPAN.  2OI 

to  me,  while  I  seem  to  be  just  as  curious  an  object  to 
them.  The  gates  open  and  the  cars  are  filled  with  the 
motley  throng.  The  bell  rings,  the  whistle  blows,  and 
at  7.45  we  are  off  for  the  heart  of  Japan.  As  we  steam 
southward  to  Ut-so-no-miya  we  again  pass  the  beautiful 
avenue  of  cryptomerias. 

Many  odd  sights  meet  our  eyes  as  we  ride  through 
the  country.  Now  and  then  a  horse  laden  with  bags, 
baskets,  and  odds  and  ends,  always  led  by  a  man  or 
woman,  moves  along  the  road.  The  clothing  worn  by 
these  people  is  loose  and  open  :  a  straw  hat,  a  pair  of  san- 
dals, and  in  many  cases  a  piece  of  matting  about  three 
feet  square,  tied  loosely  over  the  shoulders  to  protect 
them  from  the  rain  or  excessive  heat  of  the  sun. 

I  observe  gates  at  many  points  where  the  railway 
intersects  the  road.  These  gates  are  almost  invariably 
managed  by  young  Japanese  girls.  On  the  road  to 
Omiya  we  cross  the  Tone-gawa,  by  a  strong,  well-con- 
structed bridge.  Having  forty  minutes  at  Omiya,  while 
waiting  to  make  connection,  I  stroll  through  the  place, 
but  see  nothing  of  interest  but  the  great  Fuji-yama  in 
the  distance,  extending  its  lofty  head  far  into  the 
clouds.  How  noble  and  grand  it  looks ! 

On  leaving  the  station  we  can  plainly  see  Fuji-yama 
on  our  left  and  the  Nikko  range  on  our  right,  having 
described  a  somewhat  circuitous  path  in  our  journey 
thus  far.  Our  train  goes  speeding  (!)  on  at  the  rate  of 


2O2          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

fifteen  miles  an  hour.  The  cars  in  Japan  do  not  ap- 
pear with  such  encouraging  legends  as  those  in  Amer- 
ica, such  as  "  The  Flyer,"  "  Lightning  Express," 
"  Wild  Cat,"  and  similar  high-sounding  titles.  We 
are  in  a  second-class  car.  This  is  not  only  a  cheaper 
mode  of  travel,  but  when  there  are  no  ladies  in  the 
party  the  comfort  is  almost  equal  to  that  of  first-class 
compartments.  In  our  section  are  several  Japanese, 
among  them  a  young  girl  of  about  twenty  years,  evi- 
dently alone.  Next  to  her  sits  an  old  man,  dressed  in 
a  kimono,  a  felt  hat  and  wooden  shoes.  The  day  being 
hot,  the  man  cools  himself  by  lifting  his  kimono  up  to 
his  waist  and  fanning  his  bare  legs  with  it,  regardless 
of  a  lady's  presence  or  ourselves. 

The  houses  we  pass  are  built  of  wood,  with  here  and 
there  one  of  stone.  The  roofs  are  made  of  shingles, 
heavy  tiles  or  thatch.  As  far  as  Isobe  the  fields  abound 
in  silk  mulberry  and  rice.  I  learn  that  the  country 
between  Omiya  and  Isobe  is  the  great  silk-producing 
district.  The  valued  food  of  the  silk  worm  is  obtained 
by  planting  a  small  branch  from  the  parent  mulberry 
tree,  and  this,  when  rooted  and  grown  into  full  leafage, 
is  cut  or  plucked  from  the  ground  and  placed  in  a  large 
basket  for  the  worms  to  feed  upon,  or  the  leaves  are 
stripped  from  the  branches  and  put  in  the  basket.  In 
this  section  are  large  factories,  where  the  silk  is  spun 
from  the  cocoons. 


IN   THE   HEART   OE  JAPAN. 


203 


It  is  interesting  to  watch  the  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren cutting  and  gathering  in  the  rice.  A  sickle  is 
used  for  cutting  the  rice  straw,  a  slow  and  tedious  oper- 
ation. A  cluster  of  rice  is  held  in  the  hand,  and  thus 
cut,  the  bunch  being  carefully  laid  down,  to  be  gathered 
by  the  following  laborer.  For  threshing,  a  stand  is 


IT  is  INTERESTING  TO  WATCH  THE  MEN,  WOMEN,  AND  CHILDREN  CUTTING 

THE  RICE 

used,  with  a  steel  blade,  three  inches  long  and  six  wide, 
with  teeth  on  one  edge.     A  cloth  is  placed  on  the  ground 
under  the  blade  to  catch  the  falling  rice,  as  a  handful 
of  the  rice  straw  is  drawn  through  the  steel  teeth. 
The  rice  is  hulled  in  an  odd  and  ancient  manner.    A 


204          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 


certain  quantity  is  put  in  a  stone  basin,  and  a  heavy 
weight,  raised  by  a  lever,  is  let  fall  into  the  basin.  The 
process  is  slow,  but  as  time  is  no  object  in  Japan,  these 
primitive  ways  have  no  drawbacks. 

The  costumes  of  the  people  in  these  districts  are  odd 
and  various.     Many  coolies  walk  along  the  roads  in 


THE  RICE  is  HULLED  IN  AN  ODD  AND  ANCIENT  MANNER. 

their  large  straw  hats  and  coats.  The  country  peasant 
sits  by  the  roadside  with  his  load  of  merchandise,  resting 
and  smoking  his  small  pipe. 

We  have  a  fine  view  from  the  car  window  at  An-naka 
station.  Here  we  behold  mountains  on  all  sides.  The 
lofty  and  picturesque  Asama-yama  rises  to  a  height  of 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  JAPAN. 


205 


IN   THE   HEART   OF  JAPAN.  2O/ 

eight  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Here, 
too,  is  Iwa-fune-sau  (Iwa,  rock,  fune,  boat,  and  san, 
mountain),  named  from  the  shape  of  its  peaks,  which 
are  like  a  huge  boat,  from  stem  to  stern.  In  the  dis- 
tance, on  our  right  is  Ikao  mountain,  not  least  in  this 
region,  where  all  is  interesting  and  beautiful.  Nearer 


MIVOOI-RAN  WITH  POINTED  CLIFFS  GREAT  ARCHES  AXD  SEEMING  CASTLES. 

may  be  seen  Miyogi-san,  or  "  rocky  mountain,"  rugged 
and  picturesque,  with  pointed  cliffs,  great  arches,  and 
seeming  castles  that  inspire  one  with  a  longing  for  the 
artist's  brush  and  the  poet's  pen  to  carry  these  wonder- 
ful scenes  to  all  the  countries  in  the  world. 

At  Yokogawa  we  stop  about  twenty  minutes,  when  I 


208          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

leave  the  car  to  stretch  my  cramped  limbs  and  bathe  my 
face  and  hands  at  a  neighboring  fountain.  I  am  imme- 
diately surrounded  by  a  dozen  children,  who  are  much 
amused  at  my  strange  appearance.  I  say  to  them, 
"  Komban-wa  "  (Good  evening),  which  is  received  by  a 
burst  of  laughter. 

Our  train  consists  of  eight  passenger  coaches  and 
two  very  powerful  locomotives,  one  forward,  and  one  at 
the  rear  end  of  the  train,  for  we  are  to  be  pushed  up  an 
incline  of  one  foot  to  fifteen,  over  the  Usui  Pass,  from 
Yokogawa  to  Karuisawa  station.  In  this  short  ride  we 
pass  through  twenty-six  tunnels,  whose  total  length  is 
two  and  three-quarters  miles,  the  longest  one  extending 
one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  seventy-two  feet. 

For  safety  the  engines  run  upon  a  sort  of  cogged 
chain,  placed  between  the  rails;  for  if  a  brake  should 
slip,  or  an  accident  happen,  we  would  all  be  hurled  to 
the  bottom  of  the  incline. 

Some  of  the  tunnels  are  quite  short.  They  are  all 
built  of  brick  or  stone.  We  pass  through  one  after 
another  until  we  reach  Karuisawa  at  last,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  four  thousand  feet.  Here  we  spend  the  night. 
The  air  is  cool  and  pleasant,  and  after  a  short  walk  we 
arrive  at  a  real  Japanese  country  inn.  This  is  my  first 
experience  of  "  board  and  lodgings."  I  engage  a  room 
adjoining  my  own  for  my  guide,  who  at  once  begins  to 
prepare  for  supper,  unpacking  knives,  forks,  and  dishes. 


IN   THE   HEART   OF  JAPAN. 


209 


I  make  out  finely  with  canned  meats  and  some  pre- 
serves, added  to  the  customary  rice  and  tea,  and  enjoy 
a  good  meal  with  a  ravenous  appetite. 

As  the  evening  advances,  and  I  have  finished 
writing  up  my  journal  and  studying  the  guide-book,  the 
guide  calls  a  Neisan,  and  directs  her  to  make  my  bed. 


A  JAPANESE  BED. 

You  must  know  that  away  from  the  cities,  both  in  inns 
and  private  houses,  the  rooms  are  wholly  unfurnished. 
Only  in  places  frequented  by  foreigners  are  tables, 
chairs,  or  stools  to  be  found.  The  bed  is  made  in  this 
fashion :  First  of  all,  flea  powder  is  sprinkled  abund- 
antly over  the  straw  mat  which  covers  the  floor.  Upon 


210          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

this  a  four-inch  mattress  is  laid ;  sheets  are  spread  over 
the  mattress  and  two  or  three  down  quilts,  and  when 
the  mosquito  netting  is  hung  over  it  and  an  oil-lighted 
paper  lantern  placed  beside  it,  you  have  the  genuine 
Japanese  bed.  My  first  experience  of  this  floor  bed  is 
not  satisfactory.  I  have  a  constant  fear  of  rats,  mice, 
centipedes,  roaches,  and  other  vermin.  But  I  sleep  the 
sleep  of  the  fatigued,  and  do  not  waken  until  six  o'clock 
in  the  morning. 

I  tell  the  guide  that  I  wish  to  take  a  bath,  not  in  the 
general  tub,  with  other  men  and  women,  but  by  my- 
self. In  a  few  minutes  I  am  informed  that  the  bath  is 
ready.  Where  is  it  ?  What  is  it  ?  A  large  tub  is 
placed  on  the  narrow  porch  in  front  of  my  room,  ex- 
posed to  all  the  rooms  that  face  this  part  of  the  inn. 
It  is  filled  with  hot  water,  and  I  am  expected  to  undress 
and  wash  here  I  Thinking  it  best  to  adapt  myself  to 
this  primitive  custom,  I  finally  undress  and  begin  my 
bath,  concealing  myself  as  best  I  can  behind  a  towel. 
It  is  a  very  embarrassing  position.  However,  I  am 
clean  and  refreshed  by  my  trying  bath,  and  I  feel  that 
I  have  the  best  of  it.  The  jolly  landlady  has  given  me 
the  best  room  in  the  house.  The  cost  of  this  room  over- 
night, with  charcoal  fire,  lamp,  and  bath,  is  one  yen,  or 
fifty  cents.  I  charm  the  landlady  and  Neisan,  who 
surround  me,  by  conjurer's  tricks  and  similar  entertain- 
ments for  an  hour,  then  with  an  "  Arrigata  "  (thank  you) 


IN  THE   HEART   OF  JAPAN.  211 

and  "  Sayonara"  (good-bye),  we  pick  up  our  traps  and 
are  off  by  train  for  Nagano. 

This  part  of  the  journey  is  very  interesting.  A 
descent  of  nearly  four  thousand  feet  causes  the  little 
train  to  move  more  rapidly  than  usual,  and  the  road  is 
considered  the  most  picturesque  in  Japan.  There  are 
deep  gullies  in  the  mountain  sides,  down  which  flow 
streams  of  water  to  the  rivers  below.  On  either  side 
of  the  railroad  the  golden  harvest  of  the  rice  field  is 
ready  for  the  reaper.  Only  a  short  distance  away  the 
Asama-yama  rises  in  all  its  glory.  The  day  is  clear, 
and  the  mountains,  as  they  come  into  view  one  after 
the  other,  present  a  magnificent  panorama  to  my  enrap- 
tured gaze. 

From  Oiwake,  where  the  Nakesendo,  or  old  mountain 
road,  is  left  behind,  and  thence  to  Komoro,  we  have  the 
plain  of  Ivvamurata,  with  Yatsu-ga-taki  and  Asama-yama 
in  the  background. 

With  what  interest  I  gaze  upon  this  scene,  and  how 
I  long  to  rest  here  and  paint  these  gorgeous  pictures  ! 
But  I  dare  not  pause,  for  the  journey  before  us  will  not 
admit  of  delay  here,  so  I  can  only  store  them  away  as 
mental  pictures  that  will  brighten  many  a  future  day. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  flood  of  light  cast  by  the  sun 
upon  these  mountains  and  the  valley  below,  the  dark 
green  of  the  pines  contrasting  with  the  lime  and  lava 
on  the  mountain  side. 


212          VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

From  Komoro  to  Neda  the  road  runs  through  the 
valley  of  Chiku-ma-gawa,  whose  southern  bank  con- 
sists of  a  series  of  bold  bluffs. 

We  have  a  full  view  of  the  Shinshi-Hida,  massive 
and  grand,  and  after  crossing  the  Chikuma-gawa  and 
the  Saiga wa  we  arrive  safely  at  Nagano,  and  take  jinrik- 
ishas  to  the  Fuji-ya  Hotel,  called  in  Japan  Taikiokti- 
kwan.  My  guide  engages  for  me  the  only  foreign  or 
American  room  in  the  place.  I  find  it  clean  and  pleas- 
ant, with  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains  and  plains.  It 
contains  an  iron  bed,  some  chairs,  and  a  table,  after  the 
American  fashion.  This  room  is  looked  upon  by  the 
natives  as  a  queer  place,  but  one  possessing  all  the 
comforts  of  an  American  home. 

After  tiffin  I  walk  about  the  town  with  my  guide, 
and  am  much  embarrassed  by  the  stares  of  those  whom 
we  meet,  some  of  the  people  even  standing  still  to 
watch  us  pass.  At  times  a  dozen  or  more  of  them  are 
at  our  backs,  laughing  at  my  speech  and  dress. 

If  any  one  thinks,  sitting  in  his  easy-chair  at  home, 
that  the  Japanese  are  familiar  with  our  ways  and  cos- 
tumes, let  him  follow  in  my  footsteps  and  he  will  soon 
lose  this  impression. 

We  visit  the  temple  of  Zenkoji,  one  of  the  most 
celebrated  in  the  whole  empire.  It  is  dedicated  to 
Amida  and  his  two  followers,  Kwannon  and  Daiseishi, 
a  group  of  whose  images  is  here  enshrined. 


IN  THE   HEART   OF  JAPAN.  213 

"  This  sacred  group  is  said  to  have  been  made  by 
Shaka  Muni  out  of  gold  found  on  Mount  Shumi,  the 
centre  of  the  universe.  After  various  vicissitudes  in 
China  and  Corea  it  was  brought  to  Japan  in  552  A.  D. 
as  a  present  from  the  King  of  Corea  to  the  Mikado  on 
the  introduction  of  Buddhism  into  Japan.  All  the 
efforts  of  the  Japanese  enemies  of  Buddhism  to  make 
away  with  the  image  were  in  vain.  Thrown  into 
rivers,  hacked  at,  burned,  it  survived  all,  and  finally 
found  a  resting-place  at  Zenkoji  or  Nagano  in  602 
A.  D." 

The  main  temple,  erected  in  1701  A.  D.,  is  a  building 
of  two  stories,  one  hundred  and  ninety-eight  feet  in 
depth,  and  one  hundred  and  eight  feet  in  breadth,  with 
a  huge  gabled  roof,  which  is  supported  by  one  hundred 
and  thirty-six  pillars,  and  contains,  it  is  said,  sixty- 
nine  thousand  three  hundred  and  eighty-four  rafters, 
the  same  number  as  the.  written  characters  contained  in 
the  Chinese  version  of  the  Buddhist  Scriptures.  A 
space  of  eighty-eight  mats,  one  thousand  six  hundred 
square  feet,  is  set  apart  for  the  worshipers,  many  of 
whom  we  see  upon  their  knees,  praying  to  the  various 
gods.  There  are  many  old  relics  in  the  recesses,  also 
some  mementoes  of  the  recent  Chinese  Japanese  war, 
such  as  swords,  spears,  guns,  and  armor  plate.  The 
images  in  every  available  spot,  and  the  silent  devotees 
absorbed  in  prayer,  render  the  scene  solemn  and  impres- 


214          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

sive.  We  are  followed  by  a  large  crowd,  as  we  inspect 
the  different  features  of  this  old  temple.  When  we  are 
outside,  I  perceive  some  workmen  repairing  the  roof. 
The  shingles  used  are  strips  of  wood  fifteen  inches  long 


MANY  PILGRIMS  ARK  HERI 


EIR  ODD  COSTUMES. 


and  four  inches  wide.  Upon  each  strip  is  painted  the 
name  of  a  person  who  contributes  to  the  maintenance 
of  the  temple.  The  names  of  all  subscribers,  whether 


IN   THE   HEART   OF  JAPAN.  215 

the  contribution  be  large  or  small,  are  thus  painted 
upon  single  shingles,  which  are  used  in  repairing  the 
roof,  in  this  manner  perpetuating  the  generosity  of  the 
donor.  Many  pilgrims  are  here  in  their  odd  costumes, 
and  are  seen  at  every  village  and  highway  along  the 
route,  generally  ringing  a  bell,  or  striking  a  gong,  or 
obtaining  a  meagre  living  by  begging  from  door  to 
door. 

One  wonders  at  first  why  so  many  shrines  and 
temples  are  seen  throughout  Japan,  but  when  he  learns 
that  to  every  city,  town,  and  village  belongs  at  least  one 
shrine  and  one  temple,  his  wonder  ceases.  I  am  also 
informed  that  every  Japanese  home  contains  a  Buddha 
and  a  Shinto  god.  The  Shinto  gods  are  the  idols  of 
their  every-day  life,  but  the  Buddha  is  the  God  to  whom 
the  spirit  in  man  takes  its  flight  when  death  comes. 
The  Shinto  shrine  is  distinguished  from  the  Buddha 
temple  by  always  having  a  torii  placed  before  it. 

It  is  the  fashion,  in  the  interior  of  Japan,  for  the 
women  to  blacken  their  teeth — an  ugly  and  unbecoming 
custom. 

I  experience  much  comfort  in  my  American  room, 
although  there  can  be  no  comparison  between  it  and 
the  mode  of  living  it  is  supposed  to  represent.  To-day 
I  gain  much  information  in  regard  to  the  production 
and  weaving  of  silk,  and  enjoy  the  society  of  several 
very  interesting1  Japanese  gentlemen. 


2l6         VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

Last  evening  my  guide  received  a  call  from  a  gentle- 
man cousin  and  a  pretty  young  niece,  who  gave  us  both 
a  warm  invitation  to  visit  their  home  in  a  village  some 
distance  away.  This  village  is  also  the  birthplace  of 
my  guide.  This  is  an  opportunity  for  which  I  have 
longed.  The  people  are  educated  country  people,  in 


WE  PASS  GROUPS  OF  CHILDREN'  WHO  STARE  AT  ME. 

comfortable  circumstances.  When  they  bade  us  fare- 
well, they  presented  me  with  a  handsome  box  of  bon- 
bons, exquisitely  wrapped,  with  the  daintiness  for 
which  this  nation  is  so  celebrated.  I  am  informed  that 
this  custom  of  presenting  gifts  to  strangers  is  quite 
common. 


IN   THE   HEART   OE  JAPAN. 


217 


To-day,  therefore,  our  destination  is  the  village  of 
Inarimura-Shimohigano,  four  miles  from  Nagano.  At 
nine  o'clock  our  jinrikishas  are  ready,  and  shortly  after 
we  are  being  carried  swiftly  through  the  city.  My 
foreign  appearance  attracts  crowds,  who  gaze  curiously 
after  us  until  we  are  out  of  sight. 


A  PACK-HORSE  GOES  BY  LED  BY  A  NATIVE  WITH  STRAW  SANDALS  AND  HATLESS. 

Our  course  is  through  the  valley  of  Tanbajegrna, 
between  ranges  of  beautiful  mountains.  We  pass 
groups  of  children,  who  stare  at  me  as  though  I  were 
some  wild  animal. 

Odd  and  interesting  sights  meet  my  eyes.  The 
pack-horse  goes  by,  led  by  a  native  with  straw  sandals, 


2l8          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

hatless  and  lightly  clad.  Curious  and  primitive  is  the 
merchandise  thus  carried,  and  the  horse  with  his  long 
forelock  is  no  less  striking.  He,  too,  wears  straw 
sandals,  for  the  horses  in  Japan  are  never  shod  with 
iron  shoes. 

We  cross  the  wooden  bridge  which  spans  the  Saigawa. 
Only  a  few  weeks  since  there  was  a  great  freshet  here, 
sweeping  away  many  of  the  houses,  and  injuring  the 
crops.  Now  our  way  is  through  rice-fields  ;  then  in  a 
twinkling  we  are  surrounded  by  fields  of  the  white 
mulberry,  the  food  of  the  silk-worm.  Our  little  wagons 
stand  well  this  turning  and  twisting  through  field  and 
lane,  and  the  hard  usage  of  the  rough  roads.  Now  and 
then  we  stop  and  pay  toll ;  I  wonder  why,  unless  it  is 
for  the  privilege  of  seeing  the  many  curious  sights 
which  the  route  offers.  At  the  end  of  our  journey  we 
are  received  by  our  host  in  the  front  porch  of  his  house. 
After  the  customary  ceremony  of  bowing,  we  are  given 
leather  cushions  to  sit  upon. 

One  day  I  asked  my  guide  the  meaning  of  the  re- 
peated bows  with  which  friends  and  relatives  always 
greet  each  other.  He  replied  that  the  first  bow 
signifies  that  they  wish  each  other  well;  the  second 
that  they  have  heard  that  the  friend  just  met  was 
in  town ;  and  the  third  that  they  are  delighted  to 
find  this  true,  as  they  wished  greatly  to  see  him ; 
the  final  bow  is  simply  one  of  courtesy.  This  is 


IN  THE   HEART   OF  JAPAN.  219 

the  invariable  ceremony  with  all  classes,  high  and 
low,  rich  and  poor. 

Our  hospitable  host  at  once,  as  is  the  custom,  places 
before  us  a  pot  of  tea,  and  little  cups.  Then  we  talk  of 
many  things,  the  guide  acting  as  interpreter.  After  a 
pleasant  visit,  we  proceed  to  the  house  of  another 
friend,  a  Mr.  Ikebana,  an  artist  in  the  arrangement  of 
flowers  in  vases.  The  specimens  of  his  skill  in  view 
evince  a  high  order  of  taste,  and  I  feel  confident  that 
many  a  drawing-room  in  Philadelphia  would  receive  an 
acquisition  to  be  proud  of  in  one  of  these  beautifully 
arranged  vases. 

We  then  visited  Mr.  Rankey  Tanaka,  noted  as  one 
of  the  most  brilliant  and  successful  artists  in  this 
province.  Upon  his  walls  are  many  panels  painted  by 
himself,  which  seem  to  me  very  high  types  of  Japanese 
art.  The  ideas  of  artists  and  poets  in  Japan  are  quite 
different  from  those  of  talented  men  in  Europe  and 
America.  While  the  latter  are  only  too  anxious  to 
advertise  and  sell  their  productions,  the  Japanese 
masters  will  paint  as  few  as  possible — in  fact,  only  as 
many  as  are  necessary  for  a  livelihood ;  for,  they  say, 
if  they  should  flood  the  market  with  their  works  they 
would  become  common  and  unattractive. 

One  by  one  friends  drop  in,  until  eight  gentlemen  are 
seated  upon  cushions  on  the  floor  of  a  room  facing  a 
pretty  Japanese  garden.  In  the  centre  of  our  circle  is  a 


220          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

small  table,  about  six  inches  high,  filled  with  such  deli- 
cacies as  rice,  sake,  raw  eggs,  soup,  fish,  and  pickles. 
This  is  considered  a  Japanese  feast.  Our  party  repre- 
sents the  general  mercantile  and  literary  element  of 
the  neighborhood,  consisting  of  two  artists,  the  village 
attorney,  a  capitalist,  a  gentleman  deeply  interested 
in  silk  culture  and  manufacture,  and  several  farmers, 
beside  the  guide  and  myself.  I  notice  at  least  thirty 
little  heads  peeping  through  the  bushes  that  surround 
the  garden,  and  ask  the  guide  if  there  is  a  school  in  the 
vicinity.  He  answers  in  the  negative,  apparently  sur- 
prised at  my  question.  We  have  our  tiffin,  and  chat  for 
about  two  hours,  in  which  time  I  have  a  good  opportunity 
to  observe  their  social  manners.  My  guide  is  a  great 
favorite,  and  entertains  the  party  with  his  jokes  and  re- 
marks on  the  odd  manners  and  customs  of  the  Ameri- 
cans. In  response  to  their  interest  I  tell  them  how 
Americans  give  a  banquet,  and  how,  instead  of  bowing 
and  bowing,  we  extend  the  hand  and  shake  it  with  a 
firm  grip ;  and  then  I  illustrate  this  by  shaking  hands 
with  every  one  of  them  in  true  American  fashion, 
squeezing  their  hands  with  much  force.  They  yell  out, 
and  declare  that  I  am  a  very  powerful  man,  and  after 
that  I  can  see  that  some  of  them  are  rather  timid  about 
approaching  me  too  closely.  Before  leaving  I  am  laden 
with  presents,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country. 
I  receive  beautiful  samples  of  raw  silk,  delicately 


IN  THE   HEART   OF  JAPAN.  221 

wrapped,  with  something  written  in  Japanese  on  the 
outside ;  fresh  eggs  in  a  basket  of  plaited  straw,  a  bot- 
tle of  sake  and  a  quantity  of  fruit.  As  I  stand  there 
with  my  arms  full,  truly,  I  feel  like  a  beggar.  As  the 
finishing  stroke,  the  artist  steps  forward,  and  hands  me 
two  beautifully-executed  paintings,  each  about  five  feet 
long  and  two  and  one-half  feet  wide.  He  has  painted 
upon  the  margin  of  one  of  them  an  original  poem  in 
honor  of  the  occasion,  and  adorned  it  with  a  stamp  bear- 
ing his  crest,  and  his  private  and  official  signatures. 
Who  can  exceed  in  kindness  and  hospitality  the  people 
of  this  country  ? 

Instead  of  saying  "  Sayonara  "  (good-bye) ,  these  gen- 
tlemen accompany  us  on  our  walk  to  the  silk  factory, 
Kawanakagimas,  in  the  village  of  Otsuka,  about  a  mile 
away.  I  appreciate  their  kindness. 

On  the  way  we  pass  the  village  graveyard  ;  also,  a 
shrine  and  a  temple.  We  are  received  at  the  factory 
by  the  manager,  who  freely  answers  all  my  questions 
as  to  the  growing  and  spinning  of  silk.  We  then  walk 
through  the  spinning-room,  a  room  fully  one  hundred 
feet  long,  in  which  sit  about  a  hundred  young  Japanese 
girls,  from  thirteen  to  eighteen  years  of  age,  winding 
by  machinery  the  silk  from  the  cocoons  upon  spindles 
or  spools. 

After  observing  this  process  for  some  time,  we  all 
assemble  in  the  front  office,  and  form  a  circle,  sitting 


222          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

upon  the  floor.  In  the  centre  is  a  huge  pot  of  choice 
tea,  from  which  we  fill  our  cups.  We  sit  here  for  half 
an  hour,  then  prepare  to  take  our  departure.  I  shake 
hands  with  each  in  turn,  saying  "Good-bye,"  which 
they  repeat,  with  broad  smiles  and  great  satisfaction. 
As  we  walk  about  the  village,  I  attract  unusual  atten- 


ODD  AND  INTERESTING  SIGHTS  MEET  MY  EYES. 

tion,  and  am  followed  by  many  of  the  natives.  I  ask  the 
guide  why  I  am  such  a  curiosity,  and  he  assures  me  that 
an  American  has  never  been  seen  in  this  village  before. 
We  return  to  our  jinrikishas,  and  are  soon  speeding 
homeward.  The  jinrikisha  men  have  a  curious  way  of 
notifying  one  another  of  the  dangerous  holes  or  rocks 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  JAPAN.  223 

in  the  road.  The  leader  calls  out  "  B-o !  E-o  !"  This  is 
repeated  in  turn  by  those  following  until  the  last  man 
utters  the  strange  cry. 

The  night-watchman  in  Japan,  more  especially  in  the 
villages  and  small  towns,  follows  an  ancient  custom  of 
striking  two  sticks,  called  Hioshigi,  or  "  tune-blocks," 
together  as  he  makes  his  rounds.  You  can  hear  the 
clicking  noise  all  through  the  night.  The  hour  is  also 
sounded  thus :  If  it  is  three  o'clock,  the  sticks  are 
struck  quickly  three  times  ;  if  half  past  three,  then, 
after  a  second,  they  are  struck  once  for  the  half-hour. 
The  sticks  are  made  of  hard  wood,  and  the  name  of  the 
hotel  or  inn  is  carved  upon  them.  This  is  an  excellent 
custom,  and  one  can  be  sure  of  the  time-pieces,  which 
is  not  always  the  case  with  those  of  the  American 
watch-watch,  or  the  electric  clocks. 

NOTE. — From  the  egg  of  the  silk-worm  the  worm  is  hatched,  and  the 
cocoon  made  within  forty  days  in  the  spring  season.  The  same  process 
in  summer  requires  twenty  days,  while  in  the  autumn  it  requires 
twenty-two  or  twenty-three  days.  Thus  three  crops  a  year  may  be 
secured. 

The  prices  paid  to  the  girls  in  the  factory  are  as  follows :  Experienced 
hands,  seven  yen  a  month  (equivalent  to  three  and  one-half  dollars, 
United  States  currency).  Inexperienced  hands,  one  yen  a  month. 

Food  of  rice  is  furnished  in  both  cases.  The  time  of  labor  is  fourteen 
hours  a  day. 

The  average  city  wages  of  carpenters,  working  eight  hours  a  day, 
are  fifty  sen.  Laborers  receive  thirty  sen  and  stone-cutters  eighty  sen 
in  summer  and  seventy-five  sen  in  winter. 

In  all  cases  men  find  themselves  in  food  and  clothing. 

In  the  country  men  laborers  are  paid  one  yen,  or  fifty  cents  a  month, 
and  are  furnished  with  food  and  clothing. 


ON  THE  ROAD— AKAKURA— NAOETSU- 
NIIGATA. 

Akakura — Hot  springs — Eating  with  chopsticks — A  warm  bath — 
Blackened  teeth — Naoetsu — Equalization  of  labor — Umbrellas — Kata- 
rnachi — The  new  railroad — Aomigawa — Kashiwazaki — An  inn  receipt 
— Souvenirs— Jinrikisha  rates — A  "corner"  in  jinrikishas — Tashiro— 
Miyamoto—  Yoita— Floods  and  freshets — Prayers  for  clear  weather — A 
Japanese  steamer. 

WE  leave  Nagano  this  morning  at  9.30  by  train  for 
Akakura,  en  route  for  Naoetsu.  How  beautiful,  from 
the  car  window,  is  the  view  of  the  lofty  mountains,  with 
the  wide  plains  at  their  feet !  At  Toyono  we  have  a 
clear  sight  of  Tojakushi-san  and  Ken-no-mine  moun- 
tains, and  last  in  the  grand  triad  comes  Myoko-zan, 
with  its  elevation  of  eight  thousand  one  hundred  and 
eighty  feet.  These  mountains  overlook  a  beautiful 
valley. 

The  grade  is  now  upward  until  we  reach  Kashiwa- 
bara  Station,  at  an  altitude  of  two  thousand  two  hundred 
feet.  We  do  not  stop  again  until  we  arrive  at  Aka- 
kura, when  we  leave  the  train,  and  after  refreshing  our- 
selves with  a  cup  of  tea  at  a  neighboring  inn  we  leave 
our  baggage  in  the  care  of  the  landlady,  and  take  jin- 
rikishas for  the  celebrated  Hot  Springs,  four  miles  dis- 
tant. 

224 


ON   THE    ROAD.  225 

On  the  way  we  pass  a  small  settlement,  which  was 
only  a  few  days  ago  a  prosperous  hamlet,  but  is  now  a 
mass  of  charred  ruins.  The  entire  population  is  at 
work,  endeavoring  to  rebuild  their  wrecked  homes. 

In  this  section  women  and  girls  work  equally  with 
the  men. 

The  road  is  up  and  down  hills,  which  makes  it  hard 
for  the  jinrikisha  men.  Of  course,  when  the  hills  are 
very  steep,  we  relieve  them  by  walking.  At  the  springs 
we  have  clean  and  comfortable  quarters  on  the  second 
floor  of  the  best  inn,  Kogaku-ro.  Tiffin  is  served  in 
Japanese  fashion,  with  chopsticks.  How  awkward  they 
are,  in  eating  rice  and  soup  !  However,  I  make  a  good 
lunch  of  hot  rice,  fish,  soup,  and  some  small  sweet- 
meats. 

After  tiffin,  we  take  a  short  nap,  then  prepare  for  a 
hot  bath  in  water  that  flows  directly  from  the  heart  of 
the  mountain.  We  are  shown  to  a  small  room  on  the 
ground  floor,  about  twenty-five  feet  square,  in  the  centre 
of  which  is  a  tub,  about  ten  feet  square  and  four  feet 
deep.  Here  we  make  our  first  dip  into  mineral  water 
at  a  temperature  of  at  least  one  hundred  and  twenty- 


NoTE. — At  all  inns,  chopsticks  are  furnished  with  the  meal.  You 
will  find  upon  the  tray  holding  the  meal,  a  nice  new  pair  enclosed  in  a 
paper  napkin.  They  are  cut  in  such  a  manner  that  the  tops  are  still 
joined  together,  and  when  broken  apart,  a  toothpick  is  found  secreted 
between  them. 

15 


226          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

five  degrees.  When  we  emerge,  some  ten  minutes  later, 
we  look  like  boiled  lobsters.  Two  little  girls  bring  us 
towels,  and  we  return  to  our  room  to  rest  after  this 
boiling  process. 

In  my  room  again,  I  call  for  some  hot  tea,  and  the 
little  Neisan  sits  beside  me,  fanning  me  while  I  drink, 
as  is  the  custom  here.  I  observe  that  the  teeth  of  this 
girl  are  blackened,  and  conclude  that  she  is  married. 
Upon  my  guide  asking  her  if  this  is  the  case,  she  replies 
that  she  is  not  married,  but  that  she  blackens  her  teeth 
because  she  is  twenty-four,  and  too  old  to  marry.  It  is 
the  custom  here  for  married  women,  and  maidens,  when 
too  old  to  marry,  to  blacken  the  teeth.  The  stain  used 
for  this  purpose  is  made  of  iron  juice  and  powdered 
fruit.  The  process  is  called  Chaguro,  or  iron  gate. 

The  Japanese  think  that  when  a  woman  speaks,  she 
spoils  everything,  and  so  the  blackened  teeth  are  sup- 
posed to  give  them  the  appearance  of  closed  lips. 
Young  girls  powder  the  face,  paint  the  cheeks  and  lips, 
and  whiten  the  teeth. 

A  short  distance  from  the  inn  is  the  public  bath- 
house. Within  this  building  men  and  women  bathe 
together.  In  some  bath-houses  a  bamboo  pole  is 
stretched  across  the  bath  to  separate  the  men  and 
women,  but  this  is  not  regarded,  for  men  and  women 
sit  and  talk  together  on  the  side  of  the  tub  in  the  most 
unconventional  manner. 


ON  THE   ROAD.  227 

It  is  customary  for  the  proprietor  of  the  inn  at  which 
you  stop  for  tea  or  rice,  especially  if  he  and  his  servants 
have  been  liberally  supplied  with  chai-dai,  or  "  tea- 
money,"  to  walk  a  short  distance  down  the  road,  and 
stand  there  till  you  pass,  bowing  profoundly,  and  saying 
"Arigato!"  (thank  you),  and  "Sayonara"  (good-bye). 
At  4.50  P.  M.  we  take  the  train  at  Akakura  station  for 
Naoetsu,  and  arrive  there  in  two  hours.  This  is  the 
terminus  of  the  railroad. 

At  the  Iga  Inn  here  I  am  honored  with  the  best,  or 
"  gold  "  room,  commanding  a  very  pretty  garden,  which 
is  reserved  for  distinguished  guests.  And,  as  usual,  the 
landlady  appears  with  profound  bows,  her  head  touching 
the  ground,  with  profuse  apologies  for  her  inconvenient 
rooms,  and  the  poor  service  of  her  house. 

When  traveling  in  the  interior  of  Japan,  one  must 
learn  to  do  without  milk,  butter,  meats  of  all  kinds, 
bread  and  water,  and  confine  his  diet  to  rice,  tea,  fish, 
eggs,  and  sake. 

Water  in  Japan  is  unwholesome  from  the  fact  that 
the  rice  fields,  which  are  generally  irrigated,  are  heavily 
covered  with  human  manure,  and  the  streams  cannot 
escape  infection.  An  excellent  drink  is  made  of  barley, 
baked  and  steeped  in  hot  water,  as  tea,  without  sugar. 

We  spend  a  couple  of  days  at  Naoetsu,  arranging  for 
our  trip  by  jinrikisha  and  on  foot  to  Niigata.  It  is 
necessary  for  each  jinrikisha  to  have  two  extra  men, 


228          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

as  the  roads  are  rough,  and  hard  to  pull  over,  especially 
as  far  as  the  first  village,  where  we  change  our  men. 
We  hope  to  reach  Yoita,  a  distance  of  fifty-five  miles, 
before  night,  if  it  does  not  rain. 

Since  leaving  Naoetsu,  the  sky  has  clouded  over,  and 
we  are  threatened  with  rain.  We  pass  through  many 
small  villages,  where  we  notice  that  only  a  few  of  the 
houses  have  thatched  roofs,  the  others  being  mostly  of 
shingles,  upon  which  are  placed  heavy  cobble-stones,  to 
prevent  them  from  being  blown  away  by  the  violent 
winds  that  frequent  these  districts  during  the  winter 
season. 

Our  road  is  the  main  thoroughfare,  and  eyes  and 
fingers  are  kept  busy  taking  notes.  Women  and  girls 
are  as  great  workers  as  the  men  in  this  province.  They 
are  strong  and  muscular.  I  was  amused  to  see  a  little, 
brown-skinned  girl,  about  seven  or  eight  years  old, 
trying  to  carry  a  log  fully  as  large  as  herself  to  a 
neighboring  wood-pile.  The  early  training  of  these 
children  gives  them  strength  and  endurance.  The 
large  forms  of  the  women  would  naturally  impress  o$fe 
with  the  idea  that  they  were  incapable  of  hard  labor, 
but  this  is  not  the  case ;  they  can  stand  all  kinds  of 
work  and  weather.  Like  the  men,  they  invariably 
carry  their  tobacco  poiiches  and  pipes  at  their  sides, 
for  smoking  is  a  national  custom,  common  to  men, 
women,  and  children. 


ON   THE    ROAD.  229 

The  road  is  being  repaired,  and  for  miles  we  run  over 
a  kind  of  slag,  which  renders  travel  rough,  unpleasant, 
and  tedious.  Thus  far  we  have  passed  only  shanties, 
there  being  no  good  houses  in  this  section  of  the  coun- 
try. In  many  villages  there  are  rows  of  these  shanties 
bordering  the  streets,  with  the  closets  directly  in  front 
of  them.  The  drainage  of  these  places  is  bad,  and  one 
can  easily  account  for  the  dreadful  odors  which  greet 
us  as  we  pass  through.  Not  only  are  diseases  and  dirt 
prevalent,  but  at  many  of  the  shops  quantities  of  un- 
ripe fruit  are  exposed  for  sale,  and  costing  but  a  trifle, 
are  indulged  in  by  the  young  people  to  the  extent  of 
their  pocket-books. 

The  large  straw  hat  is  generally  worn  here,  although 
many  of  the  women  have  only  a  towel  over  their  heads. 
Heavy  wooden  shoes  and  straw  sandals  are  common, 
and  just  as  universal  are  the  oiled  paper  umbrellas  car- 
ried by  pilgrims  and  other  pedestrians  to  protect  them 
from  the  sun  and  rain.  Many  of  the  inns  loan  these 
umbrellas  to  their  patrons.  Such  have  the  name  of  the 
inn  painted  conspicuously  on  the  cover  in  the  sign 
language  of  Japan.  Individuals  also  have  their  names 
upon  their  umbrellas,  so  that  it  would  not  be  an  easy 
thing  to  steal  one  of  them  and  escape  detection.  Should 
one  require  an  extra  hamper,  a  very  excellent  one  can 
be  purchased  at  any  of  the  villages.  These  are  called 
"  Kori,"  and  are  made  of  straw  and  sold  at  a  low  price. 


23O          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

By  the  roadside  are  many  simple  Shinto  shrines,  made 
by  placing  one  large  stone  upright  upon  another,  and 
a  cheaply  constructed  torii  in  front.  It  is  not  uncom- 
mon to  see  the  natives  kneeling  before  these  shrines, 
praying  to  the  deity  whom  the  sacred  images  represent. 

Our  first  stop,  since  leaving  Naoetsu,  is  at  the  vil- 
lage of  Katamachi,  which  is  not  unlike  the  other  vil- 
lages through  which  we  have  passed.  It  is  astonishing 
how  the  jinrikisha  men  will  jog  along  with  their  bur- 
den, never  stopping  to  rest  or  take  breath  until  the 
journey  is  completed.  At  this  village  we  take  a  short 
rest  and  a  cup  of  tea  at  a  tea  house,  then  move  forward 
with  fresh  jinrikisha  men  and  wagons.  We  pass  thus 
from  village  to  village,  changing  our  men  and  wagons 
at  the  end  of  every  five  or  ten  miles. 

As  usual,  I  attract  much  attention  in  all  these  places. 
At  Katamachi  I  am  surrounded  by  a  number  of  vil- 
lagers, among  them  a  young  girl,  who  is  so  much 
excited  by  my  strange  appearance  that  she  runs  across 
the  street  to  her  home,  and  brings  back  with  her  two 
old  women  and  a  couple  of  sisters,  all  of  whom  stand 
staring  and  laughing  at  me  until  I  am  out  of  sight. 

We  skirt  the  ocean  front  for  miles  and  miles,  then 
follow  a  path  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  inland.  We 
can  now  see  the  island  of  Sado  on  our  left,  about  fifteen 
miles  from  the  mainland. 

The  number  of  children  in  this  part  of  the  country 


ON  THE   ROAD.  231 

is  enormous.  The  older  ones  are  poorly  clad,  and 
many  of  the  younger  ones  are  quite  naked.  This  seems 
to  be  the  most  prolific  of  all  the  crops  raised  on  these 
islands. 

The  Hokuitsu  Railroad  Company  is  building,  with 
private  capital,  a  line  from  Naoetsu  to  Niigata,  a  dis- 
tance of  eighty-four  miles.  The  proposed  route  skirts 
the  ocean,  close  to  the  main  road.  All  along  our  way, 
men,  women,  and  girls  are  at  work  upon  it,  the  women, 
equally  with  the  men,  carrying  bricks,  earth,  or  stones 
in  baskets  suspended  from  long  poles  across  their  shoul- 
ders. It  is  a  strange  sight,  and  somewhat  sad,  to  see  a 
strong,  pretty,  and  attractive  girl  carrying  great  loads 
of  brick  and  stone.  We  also  see  hundreds  of  women 
and  girls  picking  and  shoveling  dirt.  I  have  thought 
that  the  life  of  the  factory  girl  in  America  is  bad 
enough,  but  it  is  pleasant,  compared  with  that  of  these 
poor  souls. 

Stopping  the  jinrikisha,  I  ask  what  are  the  wages 
of  these  poor  people,  and  am  informed  that  the  railroad 
company  pays  them  twenty  sen,  or  ten  cents  a  day, 
providing  also  rice  and  other  cheap  articles  of  food. 
The  hours  of  work  are  from  sunrise  to  sunset.  What 
a  life  of  slavery,  with  no  prospect  of  anything  easier  as 
they  grow  older ! 

After  we  leave  the  village  of  Kakizaki,  the  route  is 
more  mountainous.  In  many  places  the  grade  is  so 


232          VACATION    DAYS    IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

steep  that  we  are  obliged  to  walk,  while  the  men  pull 
the  wagons  after  us.  The  best  way  to  travel  through 
the  interior  is  to  send  jinrikisha  men  ahead  with  the 
luggage,  to  engage  men  and  carriages  for  the  following 
stage,  thus  saving  time  and  trouble. 

The  wide  expanse  of  ocean,  together  with  the  rugged 
rocks,  forms  a  beautiful  picture.  Now  we  climb  the 
side  of  a  mountain,  looking  down  upon  the  village 
through  which  we  have  just  passed.  Here  and  there 
we  can  see  where  the  tunnels  of  the  new  railroad  will 
penetrate  the  mountains,  and  all  along  the  route  is  con- 
stantly heard  the  sound  of  blasting  rocks,  and  the  hum 
of  busy  laborers  upon  the  various  sections  of  the  road. 
Over  each  batch  of  natives  is  placed  an  overseer,  who 
takes  good  care  that  there  is  no  lagging  in  the  work. 
The  laborers  are  lightly  clad,  but  are  prohibited  by  law 
from  appearing  in  a  nude  state.  When  the  days  are 
hot,  as  to-day,  this  law  is  not  strictly  observed,  and  it  is 
not  uncommon  to  see,  within  the  inns,  women,  naked 
from  the  waist  up,  and  men  without  a  vestige  of  clothing. 

The  heat  is  oppressive.  I  find  the  temperature  to 
be  90°  under  my  umbrella  and  106°  in  the  sun,  and  yet 
I  do  not  suffer  as  one  would  suppose  in  this  tempera- 
ture. I  think  the  foreigner  stands  it  quite  as  well  as 
and  even  better  than  the  natives,  whom  I  see  lying 
around  by  dozens  and  apparently  prostrated  by  the 
heat.  At  Hachisaki  we  take  tea  as  usual  and  change 


ON   THE    ROAD.  233 

men  and  wagons.  There  is  always  much  laughter 
among  the  jinrikisha  men  at  these  changes,  as  they 
survey  dubiously  my  "  great  size  and  weight."  I  am 
looked  upon  by  these  Japanese  as  a  gigantic  and  power- 
ful personage.  The  natives,  both  men  and  women,  are 
small  and  of  light  weight. 

Beyond  the  village  the  road  is  more  mountainous, 
and  we  do  much  walking  up  the  steep  heights.  This 
part  of  the  journey  is  full  of  enjoyment.  The  activity 
of  the  laborers  upon  the  new  road,  their  odd  manner 
of  working,  and  their  strange  tools,  the  many  pilgrims 
wandering  to  and  from  some  noted  shrine  or  temple,  all 
are  interesting  sights.  At  times  we  meet  numbers  of 
people  returning  from  a  religious  festival,  scrambling 
over  the  mountains  to  their  village  homes. 

We  rest  and  change  men  at  Aomigawa,  having  made 
twenty-four  and  a  half  miles  since  leaving  Naoetsu  this 
morning.  The  tea  house  at  which  we  stop  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  one  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea.  From  this  point  we  have  a  fine 
bird's-eye  view  of  the  ocean  and  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. The  air  is  fresh  and  bracing. 

It  is  now  12.30  P.  M.,  and  we  have  been  moving  con- 
stantly for  five  hours  and  a  half.  My  guide  prepares 
a  good  lunch  of  rice,  eggs,  canned  meat,  and  a  pot  of 
tea.  He  carries  it  to  a  bench  overlooking  the  sea, 
where  we  rest  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  then  con- 


234          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

tinue  our  way  between  long  ranges  of  mountains  on 
one  side  and  the  Japan  Sea  on  the  other,  which,  with 
many  strange  customs  and  costumes  of  the  people  we 
meet,  gives  continual  variety  to  the  journey.  Since 
leaving  Naoetsu  we  have  not  seen  a  foreigner ;  in  fact, 
but  two  since  leaving  Nikko. 

Rain  now  comes  on,  and  we  have  made  only  the 
short  half  of  our  day's  journey.  It  is  so  violent,  and  as 
there  is  no  prospect  of  clearing  weather  we  decide  to 
remain  over  night  at  the  nearest  village.  It  is  not 
pleasant  to  be  thoroughly  drenched  while  traveling  in 
this  part  of  the  country,  where  the  sun  is  the  only 
means  of  drying  one's  clothing. 

It  is  half-past  two  in  the  afternoon,  and  we  enter  the 
village  of  Kashiwazaki,  thirty  miles  from  Naoetsu. 
We  go  directly  to  the  Iwatoya,  or  Rock  Gate  house,  the 
best  inn  in  the  place,  where  we  pass  a  very  comfortable 
night.  Rising  at  five  o'clock,  we  partake  of  a  break- 
fast of  boiled  rice  and  raw  eggs,  and  at  6.30  are  again 
on  the  road.  It  is  still  wet  and  unpleasant,  with  no 
signs  of  clearing.  Oiled  wraps  and  waterproofs  are  at 
hand,  and  rain  is  never  allowed  to  delay  the  traveler  in 
Japan,  or  interfere  with  the  carrying  out  of  his  plans. 
There  are  a  few  things  that  might  stir  up  his  nerves, 
such  as  earthquakes,  floods,  and  tidal  waves.  The  first 
two  of  these  I  have  experienced  to  some  extent ;  the 
latter,  fortunately,  never. 


ON  THE   ROAD.  235 

An  "inn  receipt,"  as  they  call  it,  more  properly  a 
letter  of  introduction,  is  given  by  the  hosts  or  land- 
ladies of  inns  to  their  patrons  on  leaving,  when  re- 
quested. We  find  these  letters  of  great  advantage  in 
going  from  inn  to  inn,  and  in  engaging  men  and  wagons. 

Every  inn  in  Japan  has,  according  to  law,  a  printed 
or  written  notice  hanging  upon  its  •wall,  stating  its  rates 
for  meals  and  lodgings.  These  rates  are  first,  second, 
third,  and  fourth  class. 

It  is  also  customary  for  the  landlord  or  landlady  to 
present  to  the  guest  a  souvenir  at  parting,  such  as 
elaborately  printed  towels,  boxes  made  of  lacquered 
wood,  small  picture-books,  and  the  like.  I  have  quite  a 
collection  of  these  little  gifts. 

The  legal  rate  for  jinrikisha  men  throughout  the 
country  is  seven  sen  per  ri,  a  distance  of  two  and  forty- 
four  one-hundredths  English  statute  miles,  or,  roughly 
speaking,  a  trifle  under  two  and  one-half  miles.  The 
native  of  Japan  pays  at  this  rate,  whether  he  is  heavy 
or  light  in  weight,  but  foreigners  are  always  charged 
more,  because,  it  is  said,  they  are  much  heavier  than 
the  natives,  and  are  generally  in  a  great  hurry,  com- 
pelling the  men  to  go  on  a  trot  instead  of  a  walk. 
Therefore  a  rate  of  nine  and  one-half  sen  per  ri  is 
demanded.  These  jinrikisha  men  will  run,  on  a  stretch, 
at  an  average  of  seven  and  eight  miles  an  hour,  pulling 
a  passenger  of  medium  weight.  Should  the  passenger 


236          VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

be  heavy,  two  men  are  necessary.  Our  men  have 
frequently  run  seven  and  one-half  miles  an  hour,  two 
men  to  each  wagon,  up  and  down  a  hilly  road.  I  have 
also  had  two  men  pull  me  twelve  miles  without  making 
a  single  stop,  the  entire  distance  being  covered  at  a 
trotting  gait. 

It  is  sometimes  amusing,  and  somewhat  annoying, 
upon  our  arrival  at  a  village  where  a  change  is  to  be 
made,  to  find  the  men  trying  to  put  us  in  a  "  hole,"  as 
it  were.  At  one  of  the  places,  the  four  men  that  we 
required  were  all  disabled  (?).  One  had  a  very  bad 
headache,  a  wet  towel  being  tied  around  his  head.  One 
had  stomach-ache,  and  could  hardly  walk ;  the  third 
was  so  sick,  sitting  down  with  his  head  between  his 
hands  ;  the  fourth  had  sore  feet.  After  an  hour's 
delay  I  asked  the  guide  what  we  were  to  do?  He 
laughed,  and  said  they  had  a  " corner"  in  jinrikishas 
in  that  village,  and  that  a  letter  of  introduction 
to  the  inn  would  not  avail  to  heal  these  poor  men's 
ailments.  However,  the  offer  of  an  extra  sen  per 
mile  soon  cured  the  afflicted  creatures,  and  with  that 
salve  applied  to  their  various  diseases,  we  were  soon 
flying  along  at  a  more  rapid  pace  than  heretofore. 
Money  is  a  good  medicine,  which  must  be  freely 
administered  if  one  desires  to  make  haste  in  slow 
Japan.  The  demands,  however,  are  moderate,  and  the 
railroads  now  in  process  of  construction  throughout  the 


ON   THE    ROAD. 


237 


country,  will  render  the  traveler  more  independent  in 
the  future. 

The  jinrikisha  men  are  generally  small  and  slender, 
but  quite  muscular.     They  live  almost  entirely  upon 


HERE  ARK  Two  GIRLS  AT  A  WKLL,  DRAWING  WATER. 

rice,  fish,  raw  eggs,  and  tea.  One's  first  experience  of 
jinrikisha  riding  naturally  gives  him  a  feeling  of  great 
sympathy  for  these  men  in  their  laborious  work,  but 


238          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

when  lie  becomes  accustomed  to  this  mode  of  traveling, 
with  all  its  vicissitudes  and  impositions,  pity  is  fre- 
quently left  in  the  background,  and  the  little  human 
horses  are  treated  simply  as  beasts  of  burden. 

We  reach  the  village  of  Sochi  in  an  hour,  making  a 
distance  of  nearly  seven  and  one-half  miles.  We  are  pass- 
ing through  a  flat  and  uninteresting  part  of  the  coun- 
try ;  but  the  interesting  people  that  we  meet,  and  the 
odd-looking  houses  and  their  surroundings,  in  the  many 
villages  through  which  we  pass,  vary  the  monotony  of 
the  journey.  In  a  number  of  places  the  entire  life  of 
the  people  within  the  houses  is  exposed  to  public  view, 
and  thus  we  are  witnesses  of  curious  sights.  Here, 
near  a  little  cottage  of  one  story,  are  two  girls  at  a  well, 
drawing  water  and  washing  their  tubs  and  buckets,  and 
looking  very  quaint  and  picturesque  in  their  native  cos- 
tumes. 

Here  a  coolie  is  carrying  great  bundles  upon  a  sort 
of  wooden  chair  strapped  to  his  back,  and  looking,  as 
usual,  heavy  and  unintelligent. 

We  halt  and  change  at  the  village  of  Tashiro.  As 
we  ride  along  we  see  women  and  girls  pushing  great 
loads  in  heavy  carts.  'Sometimes  a  small  boy  is  in 
front,  holding  up  the  shafts.  I  have  seen  loads,  con- 
sidered heavy  for  strong  horses,  pushed  thus  by  a 
woman  and  a  boy,  up  and  down  hills,  for  miles  over  the 
country. 


ON   THE    ROAD. 


239 


At  Miyamoto  we  find  a  nice  clean  tea  house,  and  are 
served  by  two  pretty  Neisan,  who  laugh  merrily,  and 
seem  to  think  I  am  a  very  strange  sort  of  being.  In 
all  these  villages  the  tea  houses  are  so  much  alike,  in- 


A  COOLIE  CARRYING  GREAT  BUNDLES  UPON  A  SORT  OF  WOODEN  CHAIR. 

side  and  out,  that  one  can  almost  believe  that  he  re- 
turns again  and  again  to  the  same  place. 

In  winter  snow  often  falls  in  this  region  to  a  depth 


240          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

of  from  three  to  five  feet,  and  remains  long  on  the 
ground,  owing  to  the  extremely  cold  weather.  In  these 
cases  the  streets  are  scarcely  used  at  all,  the  people 
passing  from  place  to  place  under  the  small  sheds  in 
front  of  their  houses. 

Here  are  large  fields  of  the  Kara,  which  is  used  in 
making  thatched  roofs.  It  is  mixed  in  equal  quantities 
with  rice  straw,  and  is  said  to  form  a  roof  of  enduring 
quality,  cool  in  summer  and  warm  in  winter. 

We  have  reached  our  last  station,  Yoita,  in  the  vil- 
lage of  Hara,  where  we  take  a  small  steamer  for  Nii- 
gata,  about  forty  miles  distant,  hoping  to  arrive  at  six 
o'clock  this  evening.  As  the  steamer  does  not  leave 
her  dock  until  one  o'clock,  we  have  plenty  of  time  for 
rest  and  refreshment.  Our  run  from  Kashiwazaki  this 
morning  was  about  twenty-four  miles. 

There  have  been  great  floods  and  freshets  in  this  dis- 
trict. The  neighboring  rivers  have  risen  to  such  an 
extent,  owing  to  the  heavy  rains  of  July,  that  for  miles 
and  miles  fields,  roads,  and  houses  are  wholly  or  in  part 
covered  with  water,  making  the  country  look  desolate 
and  doing  much  injury  to  the  crops.  Carpenters  and 
other  workmen  are  seen  at  all  points,  repairing  the 
damages  to  field  and  property.  Being  near  some  of 
these  men,  I  request  my  guide  to  ask  them  what 
wages  they  are  paid,  and  am  informed  that  they 
receive  fifteen  sen,  or  seven  and  one-half  cents  a  day, 


ON  THE   ROAD.  241 

if  food  is  supplied ;  without  food  they  are  paid  thirty 
sen  a  day. 

This  is  quite  an  anxious  time  in  Japan  on  account 
of  the  advanced  state  of  the  rice  crop,  and  the  probabil- 
ity of  it  being  ruined  by  continued  rain.  Prayers  for 
clear  weather  are  offered  at  all  the  shrines  and  temples 
by  the  country  people.  At  many  of  the  larger  villages 
religious  festivals  are  held,  and  the  various  gods  are 
besought  to  withhold  their  wrath.  I  have  seen  several 
of  the  processions  going  to  or  returning  from  their 
places  of  worship.  From  present  indications  their  ap- 
peals do  not  seem  to  be  having  the  desired  effect,  for  we 
are  having  much  rain,  and  the  crops  are  in  danger  of 
being  wholly  destroyed. 

It  is  time  for  our  steamer.  Hearing  a  shrill  whistle, 
I  look  down  the  river,  and  see  a  very  small  vessel  com- 
ing towards  the  landing.  In  a  few  moments  she  is 
abreast  of  us,  and  a  large  board  is  laid  from  the  bank 
to  her  deck.  The  river  is  the  Shinano-gawa,  which 
empties  into  the  Sea  of  Japan  at  Niigata.  It  is  very 
wide  and  shallow,  and  experience  and  judgment  are 
necessary  to  navigate  its  waters,  even  with  this  small 
craft.  It  is  interesting  to  watch  the  country  people  go 
aboard,  in  their  scanty  clothing,  with  their  queer-look- 
ing bundles  and  hand-satchels.  They  follow  each  other 
in  single  file  across  the  plank  and  into  the  cabins,  which 
are  first  and  second  class. 
16 


242          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

A  Japanese  steamer  is  different  from  those  in  our 
country.  Of  the  two  cabins,  the  fore  cabin  is  for  first- 
class  passengers,  the  aft  cabin  for  those  of  the  second 
class.  These  cabins  are  devoid  of  all  furniture.  Matting 
covers  the  floor,  and  in  the  first-class  cabins  there  are 
leather  cushions.  Those  of  the  second  class  have  no 
cushions.  In  the  centre  of  each  is  a  hibashi,  or  char- 
coal fire,  from  which  the  passengers  receive  some  heat, 
and  by  which  they  light  their  pipes.  The  men  and 
women  huddle  together.  The  captain,  whose  quarters 
are  above  the  lower  cabins,  invites  me  to  go  up  there 
with  my  guide.  He  offers  me  a  sort  of  a  bench  upon 
which  I  sit,  and  have  a  fine  view  from  his  windows  of 
the  country  in  which  I  am  so  much  interested. 


MOUNTAIN  ROADS— JINRIKISHA  MEN— AND 

RAIN. 

On  a  Japanese  steamer  —  Aground  —  Niigata — Change  of  route — 
Photographing  the  tea  girls — Kameda — Universal  Panacea — Bad  roads 
— Jinrikisha  men  on  a  strike  —  Tobacco  fields  —  Yasuda — Tiffin  —  A 
curious  crowd — Komatsu — Deep  Gully — the  Aganogawa — Dangerous 
road  — Kuroiwa  Pass  —  Mountain  echo  —  An  overturned  Jinrikisha  — 
Tsugawa — Pipes  at  night — Japanese  toothbrushes — Spectacles — Too 
much  rain — Wax  tree — Cedars  and  cryptomerias — Torii  Pass — Worse 
and  worse — Nozawa — Wakamatsu — Tabanematsu  tunnel  —  Bridge  of 
boats — Crossing  the  bridge — Bange, 

WITH  a  shrill  whistle  we  are  off;  the  boat  is  propelled 
by  two  wooden  paddles.  From  my  window  I  see  in  the 
distance  hundreds  of  men  and  women  repairing  a  dyke 
with  strange-looking  machines.  There  are  several  tall 
derricks  and  huge  stone  hammers,  the  latter  being 
lifted  by  strong  ropes.  Some  fifty  of  the  workmen  run 
along,  pulling  the  end  of  the  rope,  and  uttering  loud 
shouts.  When  the  hammer  is  lifted  to  the  top  of  the 
derrick,  they  let  go  the  rope,  with  another  shout,  and 
the  heavy  weight  falls  upon  the  pile  below.  This  oper- 
ation is  repeated  again  and  again  until  the  pile  is 
firmly  driven. 

Shortly  after  this  we  run  aground.  I  wonder  what 
now  ?  The  little  steamer  puffs  and  sends  forth  great 

243 


244          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

volumes  of  steam,  and  makes  a  great  fuss  generally, 
but  does  not  move  an  inch.  Now  the  captain,  with  four 
or  five  men  and  long  bamboo  poles,  push  and  push,  but 
the  boat  seems  only  the  more  deeply  imbedded  in  the 
mud.  One  of  the  crew  strips  off  his  cotton  shirt  and 
jumps  overboard  to  take  soundings,  of  which  the  cap- 
tain makes  a  note.  Steam  is  again  put  on,  and  the 
boat  turns,  as  if  on  a  pivot.  At  last  she  is  released,  and 
to  our  joy  we  are  once  more  steaming  down  the  river. 
Where  the  stream  is  so  shallow  that  it  will  not  admit 
of  the  passage  of  a  steamboat  we  change  to  a  sampan, 
rowboats  being  provided  for  baggage  and  other  freight. 

I  excite  as  much  interest  in  the  passengers  as  they 
do  in  me,  and  we  look  at  each  other  in  mutual  wonder. 
At  Sangeo  village  we  are  transferred  to  another  steamer, 
and  again,  after  going  a  short  distance,  we  change  to  a 
new  and  larger  vessel.  This  captain  is  as  friendly  as 
his  predecessors,  and  I  share  his  room  in  the  wheel- 
house  above  the  cabins.  Every  passenger  seems  to 
have  the  privilege  of  talking  to  him  and  his  assistants, 
especially  when  they  are  most  seriously  engaged  in 
steering  the  steamer  through  the  channel,  and  past  pro- 
jecting rocks.  But  he  is  very  polite,  and  answers  all 
questions  with  a  smile.  I  am  filled  with  admiration  for 
his  good  nature. 

Here  are  neither  lights  nor  buoys  to  direct  the  navi- 
gator. The  river  is  wide  at  this  point,  the  shallow 


MOUNTAIN    ROADS.  245 

places  being  made  navigable  by  a  series  of  dykes  along 
the  banks. 

It  is  7.30  P.  M.,  and  we  can  see  the  lights  of  Niigata 
in  the  distance.  One-half  hour  more,  and  we  are  safely 
landed  with  our  baggage.  As  we  enter  the  streets,  the 
shouting  from  the  throats  of  at  least  fifty  jinrikisha 
men  reminds  me  of  Liberty  Street  ferry,  in  the  city  of 
New  York. 

Niigata  is  an  open  port,  with  a  population  of  over 
thirty-three  thousand  souls.  It  was  opened  to  foreign 
trade  in  1869. 

Calling  for  two  jinrikishas,  a  half-a-dozen  answer  us, 
and  a  great  jabbering  as  to  who  will  take  us  follows. 
The  discussion  is  finally  settled  by  one  of  the  men 
taking  from  his  pocket  six  pieces  of  cord,  one  of  which 
he  hands  to  each  of  the  contestants.  Each  man  holds 
one  end  of  his  cord;  the  other  ends  are  twisted  together. 
Then  the  arbitrator  steps  forward,  and  takes  hold  of 
two  of  the  loose  ends.  The  men  holding  the  corre- 
sponding ends  take  us  in  their  jinrikishas,  and  we  are 
quickly  carried  to  the  best  inn,  the  Yoshi-kwan. 

Sunday,  September  6th. — The  day  is  rainy,  and  the 
thermometer  seventy-two  in  the  shade.  I  devote  the 
day  to  rest  and  letter-writing,  also  to  the  discussion  of 
plans  of  travel  with  my  guide.  Sundays  are  not  espe- 
cially sacred  in  Japan.  All  days  with  them  are  alike, 
and  they  work  the  whole  seven  days  of  the  week. 


246          VACATION   DAYS  IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

After  tiffin,  we  stretch  ourselves  upon  the  floor,  and, 
with  maps  before  us,  plan  out  the  best  route.  The 
recent  heavy  storms  and  freshets  have  washed  many  of 
the  mountain  roads,  so  that  they  are  at  present  im- 
passable. 

This  information  compels  us  to  change  materially 
the  route  of  our  mountain  trip  to  Sendai.  We  there- 
fore decide  to  leave  here  to-morrow  by  a  small  steamer 
for  Kameda,  thence  by  'rikisha  to  Tsugawa,  Wakamatsu 
and  Motomiya.  At  the  latter  point  we  strike  the  rail- 
road, by  which  we  go  to  Fuku-Shima,  Shiogama,  Mat- 
sushima,  Morioka  and  Aomori.  Our  line  of  travel  may 
extend  over  a  larger  portion  of  the  country,  and  in 
other  directions.  This  will  depend  upon  the  condition 
of  the  rivers  and  roads. 

Before  leaving  Niigata,  I  ask  the  landlord's  permis- 
sion to  photograph  some  of  his  tea-girls.  He  calls  up 
those  who  have  waited  upon  me  during  my  stay  here, 
and  directs  them  to  stand  in  the  garden,  near  my  room. 
I  make  several  photographs  of  them. 

At  the  landing  a  little  steam  launch  is  waiting  to 
convey  us  to  Kameda,  a  distance  of  seven  and  one-half 
miles.  My  guide  and  I  sit  upon  the  roof  of  the  cabin, 
and  my  feet,  dangling  over  in  their  American  shoes, 
seem  to  afford  much  amusement  to  the  young  Japanese 
ladies  within  the  cabin.  We  take  this  boat  through  the 
Horinoki-gawa  canal,  then  go  by  jinrikisha  over  a  road 


MOUNTAIN    ROADS.  247 

running  parallel  with  the  canal.  First-class  fare  for 
one  person  is  ten  sen. 

Strange  sights  meet  our  eyes.  The  hour  being  early, 
8.30  A.  M.,  there  are  numbers  of  women  washing  clothes 
in  the  canal,  while  boys  and  girls  are  bathing  their 
little  brown  bodies,  enjoying  meanwhile  much  sport. 
Dozens  of  sampans,  of  various  shapes,  are  pushed 
along  the  water  by  men  and  women  with  long  bamboo 
poles.  Their  cargoes  are  stone  ballast,  vegetables,  and 
merchandise. 

We  arrive  at  Kameda  in  an  hour,  and  go  at  once  to 
the  best  inn  in  the  village.  At  these  first-class  inns 
you  have  the  advantage  of  securing  honest  and  reliable 
jinrikisha  men,  the  cha-dai,  or  tea-money,  being  consid- 
ered by  the  proprietor  sufficient  payment  for  his  influ- 
ence in  your  behalf. 

As  usual,  good  men  are  here  recommended,  and  we 
flatter  ourselves  that  we  are  ready  to  start,  when,  rain 
having  set  in,  the  men  absolutely  refuse  to  go,  saying 
the  roads  are  muddy,  and  hard  to  pull  over.  The  jin- 
rikisha men  in  this  section  are  well-to-do,  and  more 
independent  than  those  at  Yokohama,  Tokyo,  and  other 
large  cities.  I  see  that  they  again  have  a  "  corner " 
which  only  the  Universal  Panacea  can  open.  An  extra 
sen  per  ri  soon  overcomes  their  disinclination,  and  we 
are  off  at  a  good  pace. 

A  comely  young  girl  sat  in  the  inn  while  my  guide 


248          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

was  bargaining  with  the  landlady,  and,  rather  to  my 
surprise,  I  was  subsequently  informed  that  she  was 
flirting  with  me.  These  girls  have  a  peculiar  way  of 
flirting,  which  can  be  appreciated  only  by  a  personal 
experience  in  this  country. 

In  many  of  the  houses  of  Kameda  we  see  young 
girls  spinning.  Only  young  girls  are  employed  in  this 
work.  The  district  is  noted  for  the  abundance  of  cotton 
and  tobacco  raised.  The  rain  now  conies  down  in 
earnest,  but  we  are  well  protected  by  wrap  and  covering, 
which  is  a  source  of  great  satisfaction,  for  many  of  the 
jinrikishas  are  in  bad  condition,  and  the  occupants 
experience  considerable  discomfort  when  it  rains. 

We  stop  at  a  small  tea  house  in  the  village  of  Ounkiu, 
where  we  again  have  trouble  in  securing  men  to  carry 
us  forward.  We  have  anticipated  this,  however,  for 
before  leaving  Niigata  we  learned  of  the  dreadful  con- 
dition of  the  roads,  and  the  refusal  of  the  men  to  draw 
passengers.  But  the  universal  remedy  once  more 
proves  successful,  and  we  continue  our  journey. 

The  country  here  is  flat  and  uninteresting.  We  pass 
many  pilgrims  and  other  pedestrians  on  the  thorough- 
fare. The  dress  of  the  men  and  women  is  uniform,  con- 
sisting of  tight-fitting  trousers  and  a  loose  coat,  with  a 
large  straw  hat  or  a  towel  tied  on  the  head. 

We  pass  large  fields  of  tobacco,  and  see  upon  the 
sides  of  the  houses  quantities  of  the  tobacco-leaf  hung 


MOUNTAIN   ROADS. 


249 


up  to  dry.  Now  and  then  we  meet  a  cart  laden  with 
tobacco,  and  drawn  by  a  bull.  Instead  of  a  yoke,  such 
as  we  use  in  America,  a  wooden  stick  or  board  rests 
upon  the  neck  of  the  animal. 

By  this  time  the  rain  is  coming  down  in  torrents. 
After  a  hard  pull  through  very  soft  and  uneven  roads, 


Now  AND  THEN  WE  MEET  A  CART  LADEN  WITH  TOBACCO  AND  DRAWN 

BY  A  BULL. 

we  reach  a  tea  house  in  the  village  Yasuda  in  time  for 
tiffin. 

While  I  am  eating  my  rice  and  eggs,  a  dozen  boys  and 
girls  are  peeping  through  the  window  at  me,  and  not 
satisfied  that  they  alone  should  see  this  curious  stranger 


250          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

eating  with  a  knife  and  fork,  they  run  off,  and  soon 
return  accompanied  by  a  score  of  older  people,  who 
stare  and  wonder  with  wide  eyes,  standing  like  statues. 
I  request  the  guide  to  disperse  this  crowd,  which  he 
promptly  does,  and  I  finish  the  meal  in  comfort. 

At  Komatsu  we  have  still  greater  difficulty  in  pro- 
curing men.  The  landlord  of  our  inn  uses  all  his 
influence,  but  it  is  of  no  avail.  The  men  flatly  refuse 
to  take  us.  There  seems  to  be  a  contention  among 
them.  I  hear  earnest  and  loud  talking,  and  the  guide 
tells  me  they  are  having  a  "  hot  time."  They  tell  us 
that  the  road  beyond  us  is  impassable,  in  consequence 
of  washouts  and  fallen  bridges,  and  that  if  they  start 
they  will  be  compelled  to  turn  back.  Still  we  are  not 
discouraged,  and  my  guide  asks  me  what  we  shall  do  ? 

I  say  we  will  push  on,  even  if  we  must  walk.  After 
a  long  time,  and  just  as  we  are  about  to  carry  out  this 
resolution,  the  men  come  to  us,  and  say  that  they  will 
take  us  if  we  will  pay  twenty  sen  per  ri  to  each  man. 
This  is  double  any  price  that  we  have  yet  paid,  and 
nearly  three  times  the  fare  allowed  by  law.  However, 
we  engage  them,  and  set  out.  Henceforward  we  have  a 
good  deal  of  sharp  bargaining  at  every  village  where  a 
change  is  made. 

It  is  really  pitiable  to  see  these  men  pulling  their 
heavy  loads  over  the  rough  and  muddy  roads,  which 
grow  worse  with  every  mile.  We  bounce  from  side  to 


MOUNTAIN    ROADS.  251 

side,  and  apparently  are  only  by  chance  saved  from 
upsetting.  Should  this  state  of  affairs  continue,  we 
will  be  compelled  either  to  walk,  or  give  up  this  route 
altogether.  Even  now  many  places  are  so  badly  washed 
that  we  often  walk  a  mile  at  a  time,  when  we  are  com- 
pletely drenched. 

We  reach  Nakasendo  after  much  difficulty  and  delay. 
The  view  here  is  picturesque  and  beautiful.  Tall 
mountains  surround  us,  and  the  lovely  Agano-gawa 
flows  at  their  feet.  No  one  would  think  that  this  peace- 
ful stream,  only  a  few  weeks  ago,  caused  such  fearful 
havoc  and  destruction  to  homes  and  property. 

The  road  is  becoming  impassable,  and  my  guide  tells 
me  that  there  is  much  grumbling  among  the  men  for 
having  come,  even  at  the  excessive  rate  of  twenty  sen 
per  ri.  We  now  walk  still  more  frequently,  where  the 
road  is  badly  washed.  Here  we  must  cross  a  long, 
stout  plank,  which  has  been  placed  over  a  deep  hollow. 
The  men  follow  with  the  wagons  on  their  backs.  At 
many  places  the  path  is  very  narrow,  and  I  think  if 
there  should  be  a  landslide,  or  even  should  we  make  a 
misstep,  we  would  be  precipitated  a  hundred  feet  into 
the  river  below. 

The  little  village  of  Igaskima  is  a  charming  spot. 
Mountains  of  the  same  name  rise  far  above  us.  The 
rain  is  pouring  down  upon  us,  and  our  next  stopping- 
place  is  still  five  miles  distant.  We  are  anxious  lest 


252          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

the  night  should  come  upon  us  before  we  reach  it. 
Without  lamps,  and  the  road  in  such  a  condition,  we 
would  indeed  be  in  a  dangerous  plight. 

Suddenly  a  deep  gully  appears,  fully  forty  feet  wide, 
with  a  narrow  foot-bridge  over  it.  We  step  upon  it 
cautiously,  and  the  men  follow  with  the  wagons,  using 
the  utmost  care,  for  a  slip  here  would  mean  the  total 
destruction  of  their  frail  burdens,  and  possibly  loss  of 
life.  However,  we  all  pass  over  in  safety.  The  scenery 
grows  more  and  more  beautiful,  combining  river  and 
mountain  in  grand  and  rugged  effect. 

Now  we"  have  trouble  indeed,  for  the  large  bridge,  a 
hundred  feet  long  and  fifteen  feet  wide,  has  been  swept 
from  its  foundations,  and  carried  by  the  freshet  to  a 
distance  of  twenty  feet,  where  it  is  twisted  to  an  angle 
of  forty-five  degrees,  with  the  wild  and  rapid  current 
under  it.  This  is  a  sad  predicament.  What  shall  we 
do  ?  We  must  push  onward,  for  the  distance  is  too 
great  to  turn  back.  After  a  consultation,  we  decide  that 
our  six  jinrikisha  men  must  carry  their  wagons  over  as 
best  they  can,  and  we  will  try  to  creep  over.  Danger- 
ous and  almost  impossible  as  this  looks,  we  finally 
accomplish  it,  and  after  an  hour  of  hard  work  find  our- 
selves safe  and  sound  on  the  other  side. 

Kuroiwa  Pass  is  a  scene  worthy  of  an  artist's  brush. 
Above  us  on  our  right  is  the  rocky  Kobanji,  and  at  its 
base  a  tunnel  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  which  we 


MOUNTAIN   ROADS.  253 

now  enter.  As  we  go  through,  our  men  utter  loud 
shouts,  and  the  echo  responds  to  the  different  voices. 

The  mountains  here  are  extremely  precipitous,  and 
dangerous  for  pedestrians.  We  follow  the  course  of  the 
Agano-gawa,  as  it  winds  its  way  over  a  rocky  bed, 
accompanied  by  the  lofty  mountains.  The  way  is  so 
dark  and  rough  that,  fearing  an  accident,  I  get  out  and 
walk.  The  guide  follows  my  example,  and  it  is  well 
that  he  does,  for  not  ten  minutes  later  one  of  the  jin- 
rikishas  turns  over,  and  all  its  contents  are  thrown  in 
the  mud.  A  pretty  sight ! 

And  what  has  become  of  my  cameras  and  plates  ? 
I  fear  much  damage  will  be  the  result  of  this  wet  and 
hazardous  expedition.  I  am  thankful  that  it  was  not 
one  of  us  that  received  such  ill  treatment.  At  Kiyokawa 
we  leave  the  jinrikishas  behind,  but  take  the  men  to 
carry  our  baggage.  We  are  taken  over  to  the  town  of 
Tsugawa  in  a  small  row-boat,  and  reach  a  good  inn  here 
at  eight  o'clock.  We  have  traveled  seven  miles  and 
a  half  by  steamer,  and  thirty-two  and  three-quarters 
miles  by  jinrikisha,  through  rain  and  over  bad  roads, 
to-day. 

As  our  men  are  tired,  and  it  is  late  for  them  to  return 
to  their  village,  I  arrange  for  their  supper  and  lodging, 
with  breakfast  at  the  inn,  for  which  they  show  their 
appreciation  by  profound  bows.  The  accommodations 
here  are  not  of  the  best,  as  we  find  in  these  regions  only 


254         VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

inns  of  purely  Japanese  character.  As  I  lie  in  my  bed 
on  the  floor,  thinking  of  the  many  advantages  and 
comforts  of  home,  I  am  annoyed  by  the  continual  tap, 
tap,  tap  of  pipes,  and  by  weird,  unpleasant  music  and 
songs,  until  late  in  the  night.  The  clicking  noise  at 
intervals  of  one  or  two  minutes  is  caused  by  the 
smokers  striking  their  pipes  upon  a  bamboo  box  in  the 
hibashi  to  empty  them. 

Another  strange  sight,  and  one  constantly  met  with, 
is  the  enormous  smoked-glass  spectacles  worn  by  the 
natives  of  Japan,  to  protect  their  eyes  from  the  sun. 
These  spectacles  are  fully  two  inches  in  diameter,  and 
perfectly  round,  giving  the  wearer  a  very  peculiar 
appearance.  However,  in  time  one  becomes  accustomed 
to  all  these  odd  sights,  and  ceases  to  wonder  at  anything. 

We  pass  an  uncomfortable  night,  for  our  clothing  is 
quite  wet  from  the  day's  exposure.  After  a  breakfast 
of  hot  rice,  eggs,  and  tea,  we  leave  Tsugawa  at  half- 
past  seven  o'clock,  hoping  to  reach  Wakamatsu  before 
nightfall.  I  am  disappointed  to  find  it  raining  hard, 
and  as  we  will  pass  on  the  way  some  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful mountain  scenery,  this  fact  will  interfere  consid- 
erably with  my  photographing. 

NOTE. — One  sees  queer  tooth-brushes  when  traveling  in  the  interior. 
They  are  made  of  sticks  of  wood,  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil ,  sharpened  at 
one  end  for  a  tooth-pick,  while  on  the  other  end  is  a  sort  of  a  mop. 
The  brushes  are  thrown  away  after  being  used  once.  They  are  sold  in 
packages  of  a  dozen,  at  two  or  three  sen  a  bunch. 


MOUNTAIN    ROADS.  255 

I  thank  iny  stars,  while  traveling  in  Japan,  and 
especially  during  this  rainy  season,  that  there  is  such 
a  medicine  as  quinine,  to  which  I  attribute  the  preven- 
tion of  colds  and  other  troubles,  consequent  upon  ex- 
posure to  this  unfamiliar  climate.  The  country  about 
us  is  wild  and  picturesque,  reminding  me  of  the 
mountain  scenery  in  central  Pennsylvania.  Here  are 
numbers  of  small  trees,  called  wax  trees,  from  which 
the  famous  lacquer  liquid,  used  so  extensively  by  the 
Japanese  in  oil-finished  woodwork,  is  made.  Candles 
are  also  made  from  the  seed.  The  roads  in  Japan  are 
ballasted  with  small  pebbles  gathered  from  the  rivers  in 
the  vicinity.  In  the  absence  of  rivers,  stone  is  brought 
from  the  mountains,  and  broken  into  small  pieces,  such 
as  we  do  on  our  country  roads. 

Here  are  forests  of  cedars  and  cryptomerias.  We 
pass  acre  after  acre  of  this  valuable  wood.  Cedar  is 
extensively  used  in  building  houses,  and  especially  for 
the  floors  of  inns.  It  is  never  painted  or  varnished, 
but  planed  and  finished  to  a  high  degree  of  perfection, 
and  being  constantly  traveled  over  by  "  stocking  feet," 
acquires  a  fine  polish. 

It  is  a  curious  fact  that  the  women  of  Japan,  of  all 
ranks,  walk  with  their  feet  turned  in,  and  are  generally 
bow-legged.  I  attribute  this  to  the  universal  custom  of 
sitting  on  their  feet. 

Again  we  see  in  the  distance  mountains,  from  fifteen 


256          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

hundred  to  two  thousand  feet  high,  with  their  peaks 
enveloped  in  mist  and  clouds.  I  wonder  if  it  will  ever 
stop  raining! 

The  way  begins  to  ascend,  and  I  learn  that  we  are  at 
the  foot  of  Torii  Pass.  The  road  is  barely  passable, 
and  deep  gullies  and  ruts  covered  with  mud  and  water 
render  the  tracks  uncertain.  We  do  not  know  how  far 
we  will  sink  in  this  mud,  or  whether  we  will  not  at  any 
minute  be  hurled  from  the  wagons.  Our  wheels  sink 
deeper  and  deeper,  and  are  extricated  with  difficulty. 
The  rain  comes  in  torrents,  and  the  wind  increases 
every  moment.  The  men  make  frequent  halts,  for  the 
pull  is  a  hard  one.  Grand  scenery  is  all  about  us,  and 
as  we  climb  higher  and  higher,  we  behold  the  summits 
of  the  neighboring  mountains.  The  wind,  by  this 
time  has  become  a  gale,  and  I  feel  as  though  our  wagons 
will  surely  be  blown  away.  The  tops  of  the  jinrikishas 
and  the  oil-cloth  coverings  have  entirely  disappeared. 

Upon  reaching  the  mountain  top,  we  find  that  we 
have  been  two  hours  in  making  the  ascent.  We  rest 
at  a  tea  house  on  the  roadside,  and  give  the  men  a  lunch 
of  rice,  raw  eggs,  tea,  and  dried  fish,  the  cost  of  which 
for  six  men  is  thirty  sen,  or  fifteen  cents  of  our  money. 

When  we  cross  the  boundary  line,  and  pass  into  the 
province  of  Iwashiro,  the  road  is  horrible.  Ruts  twelve 
inches  deep  are  seen  on  either  side,  and  the  mire  is  so 
thick  and  sticky  that  sometimes  the  efforts  of  the  whole 


MOUNTAIN    ROADS.  257 

six  men  are  necessary  to  release  one  wagon.  As  we 
descend,  we  pitch  from  side  to  side.  How  niy  man  in 
the  shafts  bounds  to  and  fro  !  I  can  scarcely  keep  my 
seat.  But  I  take  a  firm  grip,  and  do  my  best  to  hold 
on,  feeling  as  though  I  am  floating  in  a  tub  on  an 
angry  sea.  This  unpleasant  motion  ceases,  to  my  great 
joy,  and  we  enter  a  tea  house  in  the  village  of  Muraoka, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Kuruma  Pass.  Since  leaving  Tsugawa, 
we  have  covered  a  distance  of  six  ri,  or  about  sixteen 
miles.  We  have  yet  eleven  ri  before  us,  ere  we  reach 
Wakamatsu. 

At  Muraoka  we  engage  additional  men,  one  for  each 
wagon,  making  nine  in  all,  and  begin  the  ascent  of 
another  mountain  pass,  with  the  worst  possible  roads. 
My  guide  tells  me  that  in  his  thirteen  years'  experience 
on  the  roads  of  Japan  he  has  never  seen  any  as  bad  as 
these.  Even  with  the  additional  men,  it  is  impossible 
to  pull  up  the  mountain  passes,  and  we  are  two  miles 
from  the  nearest  tea  house.  The  rain  is  coming  down 
in  sheets — "  shot "  rain  they  call  it  in  Japan — and  the 
only  thing  to  be  done  is  to  get  out  and  walk  ;  so  pulling 
a  woollen  blanket  over  my  shoulders,  and  taking  off  my 
shoes,  we  set  out,  and  make  a  tedious  and  laborious 
journey  to  the  village  of  Nozawa,  where  we  rest  and 
eat  a  cold  lunch. 

We  now  place  four  men  on  each  wagon,  paying  their 
demand  of  twenty  sen  per  ri  to  each  man.  We  are, at 


258          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

the  mercy  of  these  men,  and  no  one  is  better  aware  of 
the  fact  than  they.  Even  with  this  number  of  men  we 
are  at  times  obliged  to  get  out  and  walk.  By  this  time 
I  am  seasick,  or  "jinrikisha"  sick,  for  the  constant  and 
severe  jolting  has  not  only  made  me  sick,  but  given  me 
severe  pains,  which,  however,  I  keep  to  myself.  I  am 
astonished  at  the  rough  usage  our  little  wagons  are 
capable  of  withstanding. 

The  rain  does  not  abate  in  the  least,  and  the  mud 
and  water  in  our  way  are  appalling !  Rivers  and  streams 
are  rising,  and  great  waterfalls  rush  madly  by  us,  which 
in  ordinary  times  are  but  small  mountain  streams  or 
rivulets. 

We  have  grave  doubts  as  to  whether  we  will  reach 
Wakamatsu  to-night.  Our  men  show  signs  of  fatigue, 
and  we  have  no  hope  of  relieving  them,  or  adding  to  our 
force.  The  difficulties  and  delays  have  been  innumer- 
able. Our  frequent  halts,  getting  in  and  out  of  the 
wagons,  and  the  poor  coverings,  have  made  us  wet  and 
chilly.  I  occasionally  take  a  swallow  of  the  Japanese 
rice  whiskey,  called  sake,  which,  with  quinine  is  a  safe- 
guard against  cold.  We  have  still  twenty-three  miles 
before  us.  The  men  are  cheerful,  and  laugh  or  grunt, 
as  they  struggle  on  the  way.  The  road  increases  in 
beauty,  and  it  grieves  me  to  think  that  I  have  a  camera, 
yes,  two  of  them,  and  a  paint-box,  and  am  unable  to  use 
any  of  them. 


MOUNTAIN    ROADS.  259 

The  oldest  inhabitants  inform  me  that  they  have 
never  known  such  continued  and  severe  rains  as  the 
present  ones.  We  are  now  on  a  new  road,  which  was 
built  about  a  year  ago  by  private  capital,  subscribed  in 
the  neighboring  villages.  The  old  road  was  so  cut  up 
by  constant  and  heavy  travel  as  to  render  it  almost 
impassable  for  jinrikishas.  As  we  descend  the  Tabane- 
matsu  Pass  and  mountain,  a  gradually  widening  pano- 
rama of  wondrous  beauty  spreads  itself  out  before  us. 
Even  in  this  great  downpour  of  rain  we  halt  several 
times  for  a  parting  glance  at  some  exquisite  bit  of 
scenery.  We  are  a  thousand  feet  above  the  valley. 
The  path  is  at  times  very  narrow,  and  the  water  rushing 
over  it  and  tumbling  down  the  mountain  side  gives  me 
a  chill,  as  I  think  of  my  fate,  should  I  follow  this  beck- 
oning, all- sweeping  flood,  this  whimsical  mountain 
sprite,  who  seems  to  bewitch  one's  senses  to-day,  as  in 
the  olden  times  of  fairy  lore. 

At  the  top  of  the  mountain  is  a  little  tea  house  on  the 
side  of  the  road.  Here  we  rest.  A  short  distance  from 
us  is  a  tunnel  in  the  mountain,  only  large  enough  for  a 
jinrikisha  to  pass  through.  It  is  called  the  Tabane- 
matsu  Tunnel,  and  is  seven  hundred  and  eighty  feet  long. 
Our  men  carry  lighted  lamps,  as  we  pass  through  it,  for 
it  is  quite  dark  in  the  centre.  Coming  out  on  the  other 
side,  we  have  a  fine  bird's-eye  view  of  the  valley,  which 
is  completely  surrounded  by  mountains. 


260          VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

We  have  given  up  all  hope  of  reaching  Wakamatsu 
to-night.  In  fact,  at  the  last  tea  house  at  which  we 
stopped  we  were  informed  that  theTadamikawa  River  is 
impassable,  the  bridge  having  been  washed  away.  If 
this  is  the  case,  we  are  again  cut  short  in  our  proposed 
route,  and  must  turn  back  toward  Nikko,  for  it  is  neces- 
sary to  cross  this  river  to  continue  our  journey  to 
Motomiya.  With  anxious  thoughts  I  sit  in  niy  jin- 
rikisha,  hoping  the  reports  are  unfounded.  It  is  now 
dark,  and  the  men  halt  to  light  their  lanterns  of  oiled 
paper. 

We  can  hear  the  rush  of  the  river  long  before  its 
banks  are  in  sight.  At  the  village  of  Katakado,  we 
learn  that  the  risk  of  attempting  to  cross  the  river  is 
great,  as  the  temporary  bridge  is  formed  of  a  series  of 
sampans,  placed  at  distances  of  twenty  feet  apart,  and 
held  together  by  a  huge  steel  cable,  which  extends  from 
shore  to  shore.  Upon  these  frail  boats  boards  are 
loosely  thrown,  and  these  constitute  the  bridge. 

We  stand  upon  the  shore  and  observe  this  turbulent 
mass  of  water.  It  is  about  two  thousand  feet  across, 
and  at  this  point  has  become  a  rapids.  The  risk  is 
obvious,  and  we  learn  that  only  two  parties  have 
attempted  crossing.  Should  the  cable  which  holds 
these  jumping  boats  together  break,  our  fate  would  be 
a  serious  one. 

I  consider  all  things,  and  finally  tell  the  guide  we 


MOUNTAIN    ROADS.  26 1 

will  risk  it.  We  engage  several  coolies,  two  of  whom, 
bearing  torches,  are  at  the  front  and  rear  of  our  party, 
and  wave  their  lights  to  and  fro,  making  quite  an  illu- 
mination. After  the  first  torchman,  the  other  coolies 
follow  with  our  baggage,  then  the  guide,  and  lastly 
myself.  Before  starting,  I  take  off  my  shoes,  stockings, 
coat  and  vest,  thinking,  in  case  of  accident,  I  will  have 
more  freedom  of  action  without  them.  The  planks  are 
wet  and  slippery,  and  great  care  is  required  to  balance 
ourselves  upon  the  narrow  footway,  which  is  barely 
eighteen  inches  wide. 

The  darkness  of  the  night  around  us  adds  to  the 
danger  of  the  undertaking,  but  we  keep  our  heads  cool, 
and  proceed  very  slowly.  How  the  little  boats  rise  and 
toss  about  I  Sometimes  we  all  stand  still,  fearing,  if  we 
make  a  movement,  to  be  pitched  overboard.  A  false 
step  would  mean  certain  death.  When  half-way  across, 
I  glance  at  the  water  madly  surging  by,  only  five  feet 
below  us,  and  for  an  instant  a  panic  overpowers  me. 
What  if  the  rope  which  holds  these  boats  should  give 
way  ?  How  foolish  it  was  to  attempt  the  crossing ! 
However,  after  fifteen  minutes  of  suspense  and  intense 
excitement  we  land,  bag  and  baggage,  on  the  opposite 
bank,  unharmed  by  our  daring  venture. 

In  the  village  of  Takatera  we  go  to  a  tea  house  on 
the  river  bank,  and  there  learn  that  to-day  the  river  has 
risen  six  feet  in  five  hours  and  a  half. 


262          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

I  would  not  repeat  the  experiment  we  have  just  made. 
It  is  an  extremely  dangerous  expedient,  and  as  the 
river  is  still  rising,  I  predict  that  the  cable  will  not 
hold  through  the  night. 

After  a  tedious  ride,  we  reach  Bange  at  9.15  P.  M., 
wet,  chilly,  and  exhausted,  having  traveled  almost 
constantly  for  nearly  fourteen  hours,  and  covered  a 
distance  of  fourteen  ri,  or  about  thirty-five  miles. 

We  are  now  three  ri,  or  seven  and  one-half  miles, 
from  Wakamatsu.  In  our  wet  clothing,  with  a  scanty 
meal  of  rice,  raw  eggs,  and  tea,  we  try  to  make  our- 
selves comfortable.  There  are  no  chairs,  tables,  or 
beds  here.  Every  one  must  pay  homage  to  the  floor. 

How  I  long  for  an  easy  chair,  and  a  table  upon  which 
to  write  and  eat  my  meals  !  How  often  I  think  of  the 
comforts  of  home,  the  well-served  meals,  the  savory 
meats  and  vegetables,  and  the  luxury  of  good  water ! 
The  incessant  clatter  of  the  Neisan  is  tiresome !  It 
seems  that  these  girls  never  rest,  but  clatter  on  forever. 
Smoke  and  other  foreign  and  disagreeable  odors  fill  my 
room,  and  add  to  my  discomfort.  I  am  alone.  The 
guide  always  leaves  me  in  the  evening,  that  I  may 
write  or  make  out  plans  for  the  following  day,  which  we 
carry  out  or  change,  as  circumstances  may  decide. 
Any  one  starting  for  the  interior  of  Japan,  and  expecting 
to  find  the  least  approximation  to  the  food  or  comforts 
of  his  beloved  home,  will  be  grievously  disappointed. 


FROM  BANGE  TO  SENDAI. 

Definition  of  a  "  gentleman  "—School  children— The  freshet— Cross- 
ing the  Okawa — Carrying  bundles— Wakamatsu— Japanese  doorways — 
More  shrines— Takinozawa  Pass  and  Mountain— Kutsukake— Lake 
Inawashiro — More  rain — Yamagata — The  anti-express— Nakayama  Pass 
— Freshets  again — Motomiya  -Curious  people— Japanese  and  American 
customs. 

WE  leave  Bange  this  morning  at  9.15,  with  no  pros- 
pect of  a  clear  day  for  our  journey  to  Lake  Inawashiro. 

Before  leaving  the  inn,  an  officer  from  the  police 
station  calls  to  say  that  the  chief  of  the  police  does  not 
understand  the  term  "  gentleman,"  given  him  as  my 
occupation  in  America. 

When  a  traveler  arrives  at  any  of  the  inns  through- 
out Japan,  he  is  immediately  waited  upon  by  an  officer, 
who  asks  for  his  passport,  of  whose  contents  a  careful 
record  is  made  before  it  is  returned  to  him. 

The  word  "  gentleman  "  does  not  correspond  with  the 
Japanese  idea  of  a  profession.  The  officer  tells  me  that 
any  one  who  does  right  is  surely  a  "gentleman,"  but 
that  the  term  does  not  explain  my  occupation.  He 
must  have  my  trade  or  business  for  record.  I  try  to 
explain  to  the  guide  the  use  of  the  word  in  our  country, 
and  tell  him  that  I  am  one  of  those  unfortunates  who 

263 


264          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

hold  government  bonds  and  other  securities,  paying 
only  two  or  three  per  cent.,  instead  of  six,  and  that  my 
occupation  at  present  is  to  cut  off  the  interest  coupons 
from  month  to  month.  Both  guide  and  officer  are 
puzzled  over  this  business  of  "  bond  clipper,"  as  in 
Japan  a  man  is  generally  an  officer,  rice-grower,  black- 
smith, boatman,  farmer,  artist,  carpenter,  or  has  some 
similar  occupation.  The  officer  requests  us  to  call  upon 
his  chief,  and  satisfy  him  upon  this  point,  so  getting 
into  our  jinrikishas,  we  proceed  to  the  chief's  office.  I 
do  not  get  out,  and  the  guide  who  represents  me  without 
doubt  has  a  "  hot  time,"  for  when  he  comes  out  his  face 
is  red.  But  he  laughs  and  says  it  is  all  right.  I  do 
not  know  what  he  has  told  the  chief,  but  am  convinced 
that  "  bond  clipping  "  has  been  entered  upon  the  Japan- 
ese records  as  a  new  profession. 

While  the  guide  is  absent  I  am  much  interested  in 
watching  the  drill  of  some  sixty  or  seventy  school- 
children, about  six  or  seven  years  of  age.  The  school- 
house  is  a  substantial  square  stone  building,  standing 
a  hundred  feet  from  the  main  road.  The  teacher,  a 
pretty  young  Japanese  girl,  is  leading  them  with 
songs  ;  whether  sacred  or  national  airs,  I  cannot  say. 
They  sound  to  my  ears  more  like  a  Zulu  war-cry. 

The  march  is  accomplished  with  good  effect.  Before 
entering  the  school-house  the  ranks  are  broken,  and  the 
children  run  pell  mell  to  a  large  trough  of  water,  where 


FROM  BANGE  TO  SENDAI.  265 

they  slip  off  their  wooden  shoes  and  wash  their  feet, 
then  form  into  line  and  march  with  songs  into  the 
schoolroom,  as  do  our  children  at  home,  The  sight  is 
a  very  pretty  one,  and  I  am  glad  to  see  modern  ways 
taught  these  little  ones,  who  will  some  day  assist  in 
the  improvements  that  Japan  sadly  needs  in  her  social 
and  business  circles. 

Before  we  go  very  far  we  see  evidences  of  the  freshet. 
Field  after  field  is  inundated,  and  in  many  cases  the 
rice  is  floating  upon  the  surface  of  the  water.  Hun- 
dreds of  men  and  women  are  at  work  straightening  up 
the  drooping  heads  and  trying  to  save  their  crops  from 
total  destruction.  Had  the  freshet  occurred  ten  days 
ago  the  rice  in  this  section  would  have  been  ruined. 
Now  the  berry  is  well  matured,  and  it  is  not  injured 
by  the  drenching. 

The  road  in  many  places  is  covered  with  two  or  three 
feet  of  water,  through  which  our  men  wade.  As  we 
proceed  we  find  that  the  Okawa  is  subsiding,  but  when 
we  reach  its  banks  we  perceive  that  there  will  be  great 
difficulty  in  crossing,  and  that  it  will  be  impossible  to 
take  our  men  and  jinrikishas  with  us.  There  are  many 
natives  traveling,  and  our  chances  for  securing  wagons 
on  the  other  side  is  very  slim  indeed. 

Taking  a  couple  of  coolies  to  carry  our  baggage,  and 
removing  our  shoes  and  stockings  and  rolling  up  our 
trousers,  we  walk  over  a  bridge,  constructed  as  before, 


266          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

of  planks  loosely  placed  on  sampans  which  are  held 
together  by  a  strong  iron  cable  stretched  from  bank  to 
bank.  In  the  centre  of  the  river,  a  half-dozen  of  the 
sampans  having  been  washed  away  in  the  night,  we 
enter  a  boat,  and  two  men,  holding  fast  to  the  cable, 
pull  us  across  the  intervening  space.  The  river  is  high 
and  the  current  swift  and  strong.  We  cross  over  safely 
to  within  a  hundred  feet  of  the  opposite  bank,  when, 
there  not  being  boats  enough  to  finish  the  bridge,  we 
wade  to  shore  in  water  nearly  up  to  our  waists. 

The  men  suggest  carrying  me,  but  I  say  no,  I  will 
wade  with  the  rest,  and  jumping  in  do  the  best  I  can* 
Sharp  stones  in  the  river  bed  cut  my  feet  so  that  sev- 
eral times  I  am  near  falling,  which  affords  great  amuse- 
ment to  the  spectators  on  the  bank.  Reaching  terra 
firma  we  secure  the  only  disengaged  jinrikishas  in  the 
place  to  take  us  to  Wakamatsu.  We  wish  two  more 
for  our  baggage,  and  it  is  suggested  that  a  runner  be 
sent  to  the  nearest  village,  two  miles  off,  for  these  ;  but 
he  has  scarcely  started  when  to  our  joy  two  wagons 
come  up,  and  are  immediately  pounced  upon  by  my 
guide.  Now  all  is  well  again,  and  we  are  off  after 
many  obstacles  and  delays. 

While  we  were  resting  at  the  last  tea  house  I 
observed  a  number  of  middle-aged  women,  scantily 
clad,  also  resting  and  sipping  their  tea,  with  great 
bundles  lying  at  their  feet.  I  was  so  much  interested 


FROM  BANGE  TO  SENDAI.  267 

in  them  and  their  bundles  that  I  requested  the  guide  to 
ask  one  of  them  the  weight  of  her  burden  and  how  far 
she  had  carried  it.  I  learned  that  the  bundle  weighed 
forty-five  pounds,  and  she  had  walked  fifteen  miles 
with  it ;  also  that  this  weight  and  distance  are  of 
small  account,  as  many  women  carry  burdens  of  from 
two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  on  long 
journeys. 

The  country  here  is  flat  and  monotonous.  Its  only 
attractive  features  are  the  mountains  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance. These  are  O-Bandai  and  Ko-Bandai,  the  latter; 
six  thousand  feet  high,  was  an  active  volcano  in  1888, 
destroying  many  villages  and  more  than  four  hundred 
and  fifty  inhabitants.  Rice  is  the  chief  product  in  this 
section.  Here  we  see  the  industrious  farmer  working 
in  his  fields  in  his  large  mushroom-shaped  straw  hat, 
with  a  straw  mat  thrown  over  his  shoulders  to  protect 
them  from  the  sun. 

We  arrive  at  Wakaniatsu  in  time  for  lunch,  and  ride 
to  a  very  handsome  inn,  the  Shimizu-ya,  in  which  we 
find  first-class  accommodations.  The  little  tea  girls  are 
pretty,  clean,  and  attractive,  with  smiling  faces  and 
pearly  teeth. 

The  day  is  only  partly  clear.  Great  clouds  now 
and  then  obscure  the  rays  of  the  sun  and  render  the 
atmosphere  pleasant ;  but  when  the  sun  does  appear 
and  shine  upon  the  moist  air  and  vegetation  the  tern- 


268          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

perature  is  that  of  a  hothouse.  These  fumes  of  heat, 
which  are  common  to  the  summer  season  of  Japan,  are 
said  to  be  the  source  of  much  of  the  sickness  of  the 
country. 

I  ain  continually  reminded  of  the  small  size  of  the 
natives,  for  all  their  doorways  are  made  for  men  of 
their  own  stature,  and  I  am  constantly  bumping  my 
head  as  I  enter  the  inns,  as  I  never  remember  this 
important  fact  until  too  late.  After  a  good  and  boun- 
teous lunch  of  rice,  fish,  eggs,  and  tea  and  a  restful  nap, 
we  leave,  somewhat  reluctantly,  this  delightful  place, 
and  at  2.15  P.  M.  say  farewell  to  Wakamatsu,  with  a 
prospect  of  fair  weather  to  the  end  of  the  day's  jour- 
ney. All  through  the  country  on  either  side  of  the 
road  are  many  unostentatious  shrines  and  images  of 
Buddha.  Some  of  these  stone  shrines  have  no  torii, 
others  have  one  and  often  two  placed  before  the  sacred 
emblems.  Small  stone  images,  supposed  to  represent 
Buddha,  are  conspicuous  upon  the  roadside.  We  not 
unfrequently  see  the  devout  natives  kneeling  before 
them  in  silent  prayer.  The  group  called  Koshin, 
carved  in  wood  or  stone,  is  a  common  sight  on  the  sides 
of  the  roads  throughout  the  country. 

So  uncertain  is  the  weather  in  Japan  that  clouds  have 
gathered  heavily  about  us,  and  notwithstanding  our 
hopes  and  fair  prospects  we  are  again  in  the  midst  of 
rain.  But  the  tourist  must  be  prepared  for  a  drench- 


FROM  BANGE  TO  SENDAI.  269 

ing  at  any  time.  The  country  is  prettier  after  leaving 
Wakaniatsu,  and  the  many  natives  that  we  meet  on  the 
way  attract  and  interest  us.  Volumes  might  be  writ- 
ten about  these  charming,  odd,  and  happy  people. 

Takinozawa  Mountain  and  Pass  are  before  us.  The 
road  here  is  very  rough,  composed  apparently  of  ruts 
and  rocks.  Although  but  recently  made  the  heavy 
rains  have  made  travel  hard  in  many  places.  We  have 
three  men  to  each  wagon,  and  yet  it  is  with  great  diffi- 
culty that  we  reach  the  top  of  the  mountain.  We  are 
frequently  obliged  to  walk  considerable  distances  in 
consequence  of  bad  breaks  in  the  road. 

We  are  now  more  than  seven  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  have  a  beautiful  view  of  Waka- 
niatsu, with  its  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  the 
country  for  miles  around.  Although  it  is  raining  fast 
we  halt  here  to  feast  our  eyes  upon  this  exquisite  pic- 
ture of  plain  and  mountain.  Having  descended  by 
the  Takinozawa  Pass  we  climb  by  the  Kutsukaka  Pass 
to  the  top  of  the  mountain  of  the  same  name.  Kutsu 
means  horseshoe,  and  kaka  hanging  mountain.  From 
this  height  we  have  another  magnificent  view  of  the 
lofty  peaks,  O-Bandai  san  among  the  rest.  O  means 
great,  and  Bandai  is  the  name  of  the  province. 

We  soon  reach  the  village  of  Tonokuchi,  and  stop  at 
the  Ingarishi  inn.  The  inns  in  these  districts  are  gen- 
erally small  and  the  accommodations  limited,  and  it  is 


2/0          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

not  uncommon  for  eight  or  ten  men  and  women  to  be 
lodged  iii  one  room,  in  size  about  ten  feet  square.  As 
there  are  no  beds  these  people  will  huddle  together,  and 
never  think  of  complaining  of  their  quarters. 

Since  leaving  Bange  this  morning  we  have  made  but 
nineteen  miles,  owing  to  delays  and  the  rough  roads  of 
the  mountain  passes. 

To-morrow  we  must  rise  at  five  o'clock,  to  take  the 
six  o'clock  steamer  for  an  hour's  ride  on  the  beautiful 
Lake  Inawashiro. 

I  awake  at  five  o'clock  to  hear  the  rain  still  beating 
on  the  roof  of  the  inn.  This  is  a  great  disappointment, 
as  during  the  past  few  days  my  camera  has  been  use- 
less in  consequence  of  the  bad  weather;  and  I  determine 
not  to  start  out  in  the  rain  as  neither  clothing  nor  shoes 
will  dry  in  this  damp  atmosphere.  At  all  the  inns  and 
cottages  they  cook  by  charcoal  fires  placed  in  pits,  so 
there  is  no  hope  save  in  the  sun. 

Before  breakfast  I  have  a  hot  bath  in  an  immaculate 
tub,  in  water  almost  at  boiling  point.  The  young  girl 
who  attends  me  comes  in  and  asks  in  pantomime  if 
there  is  anything  she  can  bring  me.  I  assure  her  that 
I  have  all  that  I  need,  and  she  withdraws.  This  hot 
bath  is  a  great  comfort,  counteracting,  as  it  does,  the 
chilling  effects  of  this  damp  weather.  We  have  a  good 
Japanese  breakfast,  served  by  several  Neisans  with  will- 
ing hands  and  smiling  faces. 


FROM  BANGE  TO  SENDAI.  271 

The  raiii  subsides  in  time  for  us  to  take  the  nine 
o'clock  steamer,  so,  gathering  our  things  together  and 
packing  our  wet  clothes,  we  say  good-bye  to  the  land- 
lady and  her  little  maids.  When  one  leaves  an  inn, 
especially  a  foreigner,  it  is  customary  for  the  landlady 
and  her  entire  household  to  come  to  the  door  and  bid 
him  farewell,  with  a  cordial  invitation  to  return. 

The  small  steamer  is  not  much  more  than  a  tub,  and 
really  seems  unsafe  for  passengers  upon  such  a  body  of 
water ;  however,  as  adventure  seems  to  be  in  the  very 
atmosphere  we  breathe,  we  shut  our  eyes  to  the  danger, 
and  trust  in  Providence  to  see  us  safely  through.  A 
shrill  whistle  announces  the  time  for  departure,  and  we 
leave  the  village  of  Tonokuchi  without  excitement  or 
commotion  of  any  kind.  We  take  a  diagonal  course 
across  the  lake  to  the  village  of  Yamagata,  a  distance 
of  about  eight  miles. 

This  lake  is  a  picturesque  body  of  water,  nearly 
square  in  shape  and  probably  ten  miles  each  way.  It 
is  surrounded  by  mountains.  We  can  distinguish 
O-Bandai  and  Ko-Bandai  from  the  steamer's  deck. 
The  water  is  roughened  by  the  rain  and  wind,  and 
our  little  tub  rides  much  as  an  eggshell  on  the  ocean. 
So  much  spray  flies  over  us  that,  at  the  captain's  invi- 
tation, my  guide  and  I  seek  shelter  in  his  cabin. 

I  am  told  that  large  quantities  of  fish  are  caught  in 
these  waters.  We  expected,  on  arriving  at  Yamagata, 


272          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

to  take  jinrikislias  and  proceed  directly  to  Motomiya, 
a  distance  of  seveu  ri,  or  eighteen  miles,  but  we  learn 
that  there  are  no  jinrikishas  in  the  place.  This  is  a 
dilemma.  I  ask  the  guide  if  there  is  no  "  runner " 
who  can  engage  wagons  from  the  neighboring  village  ? 
He  replies  that  there  are  no  wagons  in  any  of  the  vil- 
lages near  by. 

While  we  are  considering  the  situation,  I  espy  a  very 
old  and  dilapidated  wagon,  springless,  and  with  seats  of 
strong,  uncovered  boards.  "  What  is  this  ?"  I  inquire. 
"  Perhaps  we  can  hire  it,  if  there  are  horses  or  anything 
to  draw  it."  We  learn  that  this  is  the  "regular"  stage 
coach,  Heaven  save  the  mark !  which  runs  between 
Yamagata  and  Motomiya,  and  are  only  too  glad  to  find 
anything  running  between  these  towns  that  will  save  us 
the  long  hard  tramp  with  our  own  legs.  We  engage 
two  seats  and  room  for  our  baggage  in  this  unattractive 
vehicle.  We  are  the  only  passengers.  I  wonder  if 
those  who  have  ridden  in  this  coach  have  died  from  the 
effects  of  "  anti-express." 

We  start  in  an  hour,  but  the  delay  does  not  concern 
us,  for  we  are  not  in  condition  to  foot  it.  While  wait- 
ing, I  wonder  what  kind  of  horses  will  be  attached  to 
this  rickety  affair,  but  say  to  myself,  "  Rest  thy  soul 
in  peace.  All  will  be  shown  thee  in  good  time."  At  the 
end  of  an  hour  the  steeds  appear.  I  can  hardly  believe 
my  eyes.  These  poor,  crippled,  lank,  and  lifeless 


FROM  BANGE  TO  SENDAI.  273 

creatures  I  At  first  I  laugh  and  then  I  sigh  ;  then  I  am 
angry  at  such  cruelty  to  horses.  But,  alas  !  I  am  not  in 
the  u  States,"  and  cannot  hand  the  poor  animals  over  to 
our  society  to  be  shot  and  turned  into  buttons,  gloves,  etc. 
The  ancient  harness  has  seen  much  rain,  and  become 
green  with  mold,  as  the  only  washings  that  horses,  har- 
ness, or  wagon  ever  receive  are  from  the  clouds  above. 
Well,  we  must  make  up  our  minds  either  to  go  by  this 
stage  or  walk  with  our  heavy  baggage.  Of  the  two 
evils  we  choose  the  least,  as  we  suppose,  and  set  out  by 
the  coach. 

I  anticipate  a  great  shaking  up  in  this  cumbersome, 
springless  old  wagon,  with  the  roads  in  the  wretched 
condition  left  by  the  recent  storms,  and  groan  to  think 
of  nearly  eighteen  miles  of  misery.  We  start,  not 
swiftly,  but  step  by  step,  at  a  gait  so  slow  that  at  times 
it  requires  close  attention  to  know  whether  we  are  going 
or  standing  still.  Then  at  a  sudden  lurch  over  a  rock 
or  down  a  hollow,  how  we  bounce  about !  My  head 
strikes  the  top  of  the  wagon  many  times,  and  I  fall 
back  into  the  seat  or  into  the  lap  of  my  guide,  wonder- 
ing if  the  next  time  I  am  to  take  a  "  header  "  through 
the  torn  curtains  or  out  by  the  door. 

We  keep  up  such  a  constant  laughter  that  our  driver, 
a  young  lad  dressed  in  a  coat  and  hat,  thinking  some- 
thing is  the  matter,  asks  the  guide  what  is  wrong,  ap- 
parently unconscious  of  our  mishaps,  and  considering 
18 


274          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

the  turnout  up  to  date,  and  quite  the  proper  thing.  At 
one  dreadful  rut  I  really  am  thrown  through  the  door. 
Now,  with  slow  but  sure  steps,  we  are  wending  our  way 
through  the  Nakayama  Pass,  which  is  very  picturesque, 
with  trees  along  its  mountain  walls.  The  ascent  is 
one  ri,  and  the  descent  two  ri,  or  about  five  miles. 
Going  down,  at  a  soft  and  bad  part  of  the  road,  where 
the  mountain  is  steep,  whether  from  a  caprice  of  the 
horses,  or  the  driver  getting  his  lines  entangled,  this 
antediluvian  rig  very  nearly  topples  over  the  precipice. 
The  danger  is  such  that  the  guide  and  I  leap  from  the 
coach. 

When  the  horses  are  stopped  the  stage  stands  on  the 
extreme  edge  of  the  rock,  at  an  angle  of  some  forty-five 
degrees.  It  is  no  joke,  I  can  assure  you!  We  right 
the  wagon  and  go  on. 

It  now  begins  to  rain,  and  the  air  grows  disagreeably 
chilly. 

The  roads  in  this  section  are  the  worst  one  can  im- 
agine. It  would  be  impossible  for  a  jinrikisha  to  travel 
over  this  one.  We  continue  to  pitch  and  bounce  until 
I  have  a  severe  headache,  besides  pains  in  other  regions. 
I  must  hold  on  tightly  to  prevent  myself  from  being 
thrown  from  the  wagon. 

The  country  is  unattractive,  save  in  the  villages 
through  which  we  pass,  where  something  of  interest  is 
always  to  be  seen. 


FROM  BANGE  TO  SENDAI.  275 

Again  we  are  in  danger  of  being  thrown  into  a 
ravine  ;  this  time  thirty  feet  deep,  and  a  second  time  the 
guide  and  I  jump  out.  The  driver,  however,  is  quite 
unconcerned,  and  with  a  smile,  a  jerk,  and  a  nod, 
clambers  back  to  his  seat,  and  we  go  on  peacefully, 
though  roughly. 

At  last,  by  the  grace  of  heaven,  we  arrive,  full  of 
pains  and  aches,  at  Motomiya  Station  in  time  to  take 
the  2.57  P.  M.  train  to  Sendai,  having  been  four  hours 
and  one-half  coming  eighteen  miles.  At  the  station  we 
learn  that  the  bridges  are  washed  away,  and  the  rail- 
road damaged  as  far  as  Aomori ;  also,  that  no  southern 
trains  from  Tokyo  had  arrived  at  this  station  since 
the  night  before  last,  as  the  bridges  on  that  section  of 
the  road  are  also  unsafe.  A  pleasant  state  of  affairs, 
truly !  And  my  northern  trip  to  Aomori  and  Yezo  in 
jeopardy. 

Rain  has  been  falling  in  northern  Japan  since 
the  twenty-first  of  July,  and  the  largest  freshet  ever 
known  in  this  district  is  engaging  the  attention  of  the 
inhabitants,  especially  fanners  and  railroad  men. 
People  of  all  trades  are  greatly  alarmed  at  the  present 
conditions. 

This  is  the  topic  of  conversation  everywhere.  The 
wagon  roads  are  also  impassable  farther  north,  and  it  is 
feared  that  there  is  heavy  loss  in  the  destruction  of  rice 
crops  and  property  in  general. 


2/6          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

While  I  ain  waiting  for  the  train,  the  people  gather 
about  me  in  large  numbers,  gazing  intently  in  my 
face  and  watching  every  movement,  until  this  kind  of 
a  free  exhibition  becomes  too  much  for  me,  and  I  re- 
quest the  station  master,  through  my  guide,  to  allow 
me  to  enter  the  enclosure,  hoping  there  to  escape  the 
curious  throng.  But  even  here  I  am  not  free  from 
their  inquisitive  stares.  They  stretch  their  necks,  and 
some  of  them  climb  on  the  fence,  smiling  at  my  oddi- 
ties, or  standing  spellbound  at  the  strange  sight.-  What 
a  relief  to  see  the  train  approaching  to  relieve  me  from 
my  very  annoying  position.  We  take  second-class 
tickets  to  Sendai.  The  third-class  compartments  are 
crowded  with  natives,  and  the  comforts  are  limited,  be- 
sides the  freedom  of  the  costumes  is  not  pleasant  to 
one  who  has  enjoyed  the  American  system  of  travel- 
ing. There  are  no  conveniences  on  the  third-class  cars, 
while  many  of  the  second-class  cars  have  toilet  rooms. 

Traveling  through  Japan  one  sees  rice  growing 
everywhere,  especially  in  the  northern  central  districts. 
Of  course  there  are  other  products,  but  it  is  rare  to  find 
anything  in  large  quantities  except  the  mulberry. 
There  is  little  to  attract  the  eye  along  this  line.  The 
country  is  monotonous.  As  we  approach  Fukushima 
we  see  on  our  left  Azumasan,  which  was  the  scene  of 
an  eruption  four  years  ago.  We  pass  small  bridges 
that  have  been  swept  from  their  places  by  the  recent 


FROM  BANGE  TO  SENDAI. 


277 


freshet.  Roads  and  fields  are  in  many  places  com- 
pletely submerged.  There  are  two  long  tunnels  be- 
tween Motomiya  and  Sendai.  Bits  of  pretty  scenery 
occasionally  appear,  but  taking  it  altogether  the  jour- 
ney is  tedious. 

In  lack  of  something  better  I  fill  in  the  time  by 
enumerating  the  customs  of  Japan,  which  are  in  direct 
contrast  to  ours  in  America.  Among  these  are  the  fol- 
lowing : 


AMERICA. 

We  eat  with  knives  and  forks. 
We  eat  soup  first. 
We  write  with  pen  and  ink. 
Our  people  are  addicted  to  kissing. 
Our  houses  are  tall. 
We  have  smoking  cars. 
Our  women  are  generally  young 

at  forty. 

Our  babies  are  carried  in  the  arms. 
Our  men  smoke  large  pipes. 

We  use  small  theatre  tickets  of 

pasteboard. 
We  wear  hats. 
We  wear  leather  shoes  which  touch 

the  ground. 
Our  purchases  are  wrapped  in  paper 

with  the  name  of  the  firm  outside. 
We  pass  vehicles  and  persons  on 

the  right. 
We  eat  fish  cooked. 


JAPAN. 

They  with  chopsticks. 
They  last. 

They  with  brush  and  paint. 
In  Japan  they  never  kiss. 
Theirs  are  of  one  and  two  stories. 
They  smoke  in  all  their  cars. 

Theirs  are  old  at  twenty-five. 

Theirs  upon  the  back. 

There,   men  and   women    smoke 

small  pipes. 
They  large  wooden  tickets. 

They  go  hatless. 

They  wooden  shoes  raised  some 

four  inches  from  the  ground. 
They  invariably  have  the  name  of 

the  firm  inside. 
They  on  the  left. 

They  generally  eat  it  raw. 


27$          VACATION   DAYS  IN   HAWAII  AND  JAPAN. 


We  wear  shoes  indoors. 

We  shake  hands  upon  meeting  or 
parting  with  friends. 

Our  clothing  generally  fits  closely. 

We  wear  jewelry. 

Our  trees  are  tall. 

We  use  handkerchiefs  made  of 
linen. 

We  use  coal  for  heating,  etc. 

Our  writing-paper  is  somewhat 
square. 

We  frequently  ride  in  carriages. 

Our  sleeping  rooms  are  dark. 

We  drink  tea  from  large  cups. 

We  sit  upon  chairs. 

Our  rooms  are  elaborately  fur- 
nished. 

Our  carpenters  plane  from  them. 

We  sleep  on  beds  raised  from  the 
floor. 

We  write  from  left  to  right. 

We  write  across  the  page. 

The  front  of  our  book  is  the  back 
of  theirs. 

We  use  horses. 


They  either  go  barefooted,  or  wear 

a  covering  called  a  "  tabi." 
They  only  bow. 

Theirs  loosely. 
The}'  wear  none. 
Theirs  are  small. 
Theirs  are  made  of  paper. 

They  burn  wood. 

Theirs  very  long  and  narrow. 

They  mostly  walk. 

Theirs  are  lighted  by  lanterns. 

They  from  small  ones. 

They  upon  the  floor. 

Theirs  are  bare  and  unfurnished. 

Theirs  towards  themselves. 
They  sleep  on  mattresses  upon  the 

floor. 

Tlfey  from  right  to  left. 
They  up  and  down. 


They  men. 


Many  more  such  comparisons  could  be  made,  but 
these  are  sufficient  to  give  an  idea  of  the  strange  man- 
ners and  customs  of  the  people  in  this  far-off  country. 
The  ladies  of  Japan  dress  elaborately  and  with  expen- 
sive decorations  of  silk  and  gold  embroideries,  but 
these  exquisite  pieces  of  needlework  are  never  exposed 


FROM  BANGE  TO  SENDAI.  279 

to  public  view.  They  are  all  on  the  inside  of  the  gar- 
ments. When  the  dress  is  taken  off  and  hung  up  this 
beautiful  lining  is  visible,  but  at  no  other  time.  The 
outside  of  the  dresses  are  plain  and  of  inexpensive 
material.  This  is  another  noteworthy  contrast  to  the 
fashion  in  America,  as  well  as  in  most  civilized  coun- 
tries. 

I  have  seen  a  number  of  these  profusely  decorated 
and  costly  garments,  whose  wonderful  embroideries  are 
completely  concealed  from  the  eyes  of  the  world. 

Flies,  mosquitoes,  and  fleas  are  the  only  things  that 
seem  to  be  common  to  both  countries,  and  to  have  the 
same  manner  of  carrying  on  their  unpopular  mission. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  Japanese  shoes  are 
unlike  ours.  Many  different  shapes  and  kinds  are 
worn.  The  most  common  are  the  Cata,  made  of  wood  ; 
the  Zori,  made  of  plaited  straw,  and  the  Waraji,  plaited 
of  common  straw  and  tied  over  the  ankle  by  strings  of 
straw. 

The  railroad  tracks  in  Japan  are  generally  three  and 
one-half  feet  from  rail  to  rail. 


FLOOD  AND  FRESHET. 

Sendai — An  American  room — A  terrible  night — Bridges  swept  away 
— We  abandon  the  northern  trip — Yaita — Rivers  still  rising — Impassa- 
ble roads — A  long,  wet  walk — Jinrikishas  at  last — Crowded  inns — A 
hopeless  prospect — Disease  among  the  natives — Crossing  the  Kinu- 
gawa — In  the  Rapids — Coolie-back — The  Furussata — Ravages  of  the 
storm — Holding  the  train — En  route  for  Nikko. 

WE  reach  Sendai  at  half-past  seven  this  evening, 
having  traveled  to-day  by  steamboat,  stage,  train,  and 
jinrikisha,  and  I  can  assure  you  we  are  tired  and  sore, 
especially  so  from  the  hard  usage  of  the  stage.  We  go 
directly  to  the  Matsu  Hotel,  a  European  (Japanese) 
hotel,  from  which  may  the  fates  preserve  me  in  the 
future !  I  ask  the  landlord  to  show  me  an  u  Ameri- 
can "  or  "  European  "  room.  I  would  like  some  of  these 
architects  who  plan  European  or  American  rooms  in 
Japanese  inns  supposed  to  possess  all  the  comforts  of 
a  modern  home,  to  have  one  glance  into  a  genuine 
American  or  European  apartment.  They  seem  to 
think,  also,  that  if  a  room  has  a  bed  with  four  legs,  re- 
gardless of  springs  or  blankets,  that  it  is  in  modern 
style,  and  with  two  frail  and  rickety  chairs  and  a  can- 
dle in  a  candlestick  upon  the  table,  you  have  all  the 
comforts  of  a  Western  home.  In  this  room  there  are  no 
280 


FLOOD  AND  FRESHET.  281 

carpets,  curtains,  or  shades ;  no  paper  on  the  wall,  and 
no  furniture  save  that  which  I  have  mentioned.  It  is 
so  unpleasant  and  unhomelike  that  I  tell  the  innkeeper 
to  take  me  to  a  Japanese  apartment,  where  I  feel  more 
comfortable,  because  my  surroundings  are  in  keeping 
with  the  country  and  its  people.  My  night  experience 
here  is  a  terrible  one.  The  rain  conies  down  in  tor- 
rents, and  with  such  violence  that  I  cannot  sleep.  The 
wind  blows  furiously,  and  at  three  o'clock  the  house 
shakes  so  that  I  fear  that  nothing  less  than  an  earth- 
quake or  a  tidal  wave  has  come  upon  us. 

I  rise  and  dress,  and  as  I  sit  upon  the  floor  with  a 
lighted  cigar  in  my  hand  I  make  up  my  mind  that  if  I 
am  spared  through  the  night  I  will  bid  farewell  to  Sen- 
dai  early  in  the  morning.  The  storm  does  not  abate 
its  violence  until  half-past  seven  in  the  morning.  It  is 
still  raining,  however,  and  the  oldest  inhabitants  here 
declare,  as  those  in  other  places,  that  in  all  their  lives 
they  have  never  known  such  violent  and  long-continued 
storms,  and  it  is  impossible  to  doubt  their  statements. 

Bridge  after  bridge  is  reported  as  washed  away  by  the 
swollen  waters  of  the  rivers  and  lakes,  and  we  learn 
that  we  cannot  proceed  farther  north,  for  the  railroad 
bridges  and  the  road  itself  are  so  badly  damaged  that  it 
is  impossible  for  trains  to  pass  north  from  this  point ; 
also  that  the  bridges  south  of  us  have  been  swept  away 
and  the  railroads  badly  damaged.  Thus  our  retreat 


282          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

from  this  place  seems  to  be  cut  off  north  and  south. 
There  have  been  no  trains  from  Tokyo  to  Sendai  since 
last  Wednesday.  The  telegraph  wires  are  broken,  and 
communication  has  ceased  all  over  the  island.  I  learn, 
however,  that  a  local  train  will  leave  here  at  ten  o'clock, 
and  proceed  as  far  south  as  possible. 

In  company  with  many  anxious  natives  we  bid  fare= 
well  to  Sendai  and  step  on  board  the  train.  This  means 
that  we  have  abandoned  the  northern  route.  It  is  a  sad 
disappointment !  But  there  would  be  weeks  of  delay 
while  the  railroad  company  is  repairing  its  tracks  and 
bridges,  and  travel  might  still  be  uncertain  in  conse- 
quence of  continued  storms.  Our  progress  is  slow  on 
account  of  the  serious  condition  of  the  tracks.  The 
rivers  we  pass  are  much  swollen,  and  small  creeks  have 
increased  in  size  until  they  seem  like  rivers.  At  every 
station  we  observe  great  uneasiness  and  alarm,  and 
although  it  is  still  raining,  anxious  groups  may  be  seen 
everywhere,  discussing  the  dangers  that  threaten  them. 
I  am  much  troubled,  but  try  to  make  the  best  of  the 
situation,  and  the  guide  and  I  cheer  each  other  by  re- 
counting our  experiences  over  bridgeless  torrents  and 
through  rough  mountain  passes. 

I  learn  this  morning  that  the  Kitakami-gawa,  only  a 
short  distance  from  Sendai,  has  risen  eighteen  feet  and 
six  inches  in  the  past  two  days.  The  fields  and 
portions  of  the  wagon  roads  are  inundated,  and  in 


FLOOD   AND   FRESHET.  283 

some  of  the  villages  through  which  we  pass  the  first 
floors  of  the  cottages  are  submerged,  compelling  the  in- 
habitants to  seek  other  quarters,  in  many  cases  pro- 
vided by  the  police  officials.  There  are  no  indications 
of  clearing  weather.  The  Kinugawa  has  risen  twenty 
feet,  the  Akaborigawa,  seventeen  feet,  and  most  of  the 
other  rivers  are  fully  fourteen  feet  above  their  normal 
tide-mark. 

We  reach  Yaita  at  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening,  having 
been  twelve  hours  on  the  road.  Here  we  learn  that  our 
train  can  go  no  farther,  as  the  tracks  have  been  washed 
away  in  many  places,  and  to  add  to  our  anxiety,  it  is 
announced  that  the  heavy  iron  railroad  bridge  crossing 
the  Kinugawa  has  fallen  at  one  end.  This  is  the  last 
straw.  A  delay  of  a  few  days  during  temporary  repairs 
could  be  borne,  but  this  break  will  require  weeks  of 
labor  ere  the  bridge  can  be  fit  for  travel. 

We  try  to  secure  jinrikishas  to  take  us  to  the  river, 
hoping  to  cross  by  sampans  before  it  is  too  late.  No 
wagons  are  available,  as  there  are  only  five  in  the  place, 
and  they  were  engaged  yesterday.  Our  only  course  is 
to  walk  to  Furuta  Station,  a  distance  of  thirteen  Japa- 
nese miles.  Japanese  distances  are  generally  reckoned 
as  in  Ireland :  so  many  miles  and  a  bit ;  the  "  bit "  may 
be  any  length,  from  one  mile  to  twenty. 

It  is  doubtful  whether  we  can  cross  the  river.  A 
heavy  steel  cable  has  been  stretched  over  it,  and  to  this 


284  VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

boats  are  fastened  for  foot-passengers,  but  the  latest 
reports  are  that  cable  and  boats  are  likely  to  separate  at 
any  minute,  as  the  river  is  a  raging  torrent. 

We  go  to  the  nearest  inn,  and  I  retire  to  bed,  trust- 
ing in  a  kind  Providence  to  help  us  out.  It  is  eleven 
o'clock,  and  the  rain  is  beating  on  the  roof.  My  guide 
knocks  on  the  screen  door,  and  says  that  he  has  hired 
four  coolies  to  carry  our  baggage  in  the  morning, 
but  that  we  will  be  obliged  to  walk.  The  highway 
from  Yaita  to  Nagakubo  is  in  many  places  wholly  sub- 
merged, so  we  will  have  the  pleasure  of  not  only  walk- 
ing, but  wading  through  water  waist-high. 

It  is  a  time  of  great  excitement !  The  only  things 
I  fear  are  tidal  waves  and  earthquakes.  I  pass  a 
wakeful  and  anxious  night.  The  many  days  of  ex- 
posure to  the  elements,  combined  with  fatigue,  have 
resulted  in  a  bad  cold  and  a  sore  throat.  I  doctor  the 
guide  and  myself  as  well  as  I  can. 

We  rise  at  five  in  the  morning  to  hear  the  latest  re- 
ports on  the  condition  of  river,  road,  and  railway. 
Yes,  we  must  walk.  No  wagons  can  be  hired  at  any 
price.  The  few  horses,  used  for  farming  purposes, 
have  all  been  secured  to  carry  people  to  Nagakubo.  I 
envelop  myself  in  my  waterproof,  with  an  oiled  canvas 
wrapped  about  my  legs,  and  raising  my  umbrella  to 
protect  myself  as  far  as  may  be  from  the  violence  of 
the  rain,  step  out  upon  the  flooded  highway.  We  have 


FLOOD   AND   FRESHET.  285 

not  gone  far  before  I  am  thoroughly  drenched,  as  my 
umbrella  is  of  no  use  whatever,  and  my  waterproof 
leaks  badly.  The  water  is  very  high,  but  I  am  thank- 
ful we  are  not  compelled  to  swim.  We  walk  along  the 
railroad  for  many  miles,  and  where  the  bridges  have 
been  washed  away  we  cross  by  boat,  or  wade  to  the 
opposite  side.  It  is  a  tedious,  disagreeable  journey. 
Wet  to  the  skin,  and  chilled  to  the  bones,  I  wonder  when 
the  hardships  of  this  trip  will  cease. 

On  we  go,  passing  many  natives,  men,  women  and 
children,  all  walking  except  a  few  women  who  have 
been  fortunate  enough  to  secure  horses.  Two  or  three 
women  are  on  one  horse,  riding  man  fashion  and  with- 
out a  saddle.  They  present  an  odd  picture,  and  were 
it  not  for  the  rain  I  would  like  to  stop  and  photograph 
some  of  the  scenes  along  the  way.  After  a  long  weari- 
some journey  we  reach  the  village  of  Nagakubo.  Here 
we  endeavor  to  secure  jinrikishas  to  take  us  to  Ujii, 
four  miles  distant,  but  none  are  to  be  had,  so  we  direct 
our  coolies  to  go  ahead  with  the  baggage  and  engage 
rooms  for  the  guide  and  myself  at  the  inn  in  the  vil- 
lage, and  if  possible  to  send  us  two  jinrikishas.  We 
wait  patiently  for  more  than  an  hour,  during  which 
time  I  am  surrounded  by  about  sixty  natives  who  watch 
every  movement,  and  laugh  heartily  if  I  yawn  or 
sneeze.  I  light  my  pipe,  then  write  down  some  notes, 
they  watching  with  the  greatest  interest.  Only  one 


286          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

who  has  passed  through  such  an  ordeal  can  understand 
iny  feelings  at  thus  being  the  centre  of  a  crowd  of 
curious  men,  women,  and  children.  I  tell  the  guide  we 
had  better  walk  on,  although  we  have  several  parcels 
and  are  fatigued  with  the  long  tramp  in  our  heavy  wet 
clothing.  The  rain  still  comes  in  bucketfuls.  The 
crowd  opens  to  let  us  pass,  and  as  I  look  back  I  see 
them  still  standing  in  the  road  gazing  after  me. 

We  have  not  gone  more  than  a  mile  when  we  see 
twojinrikisha  men  with  empty  wagons  running  towards 
us.  Thank  Providence  !  They  are  sent  by  our  coolies. 
We  jump  in  and  enjoy  a  much-needed  rest.  The  men 
are  obliged  to  walk  in  consequence  of  the  condition  of 
the  roads,  thus  we  make  but  slow  progress,  with  such 
violent  jolting  that  if  we  do  not  hold  on  tightly  we  are 
in  great  danger  of  being  pitched  out  into  the  mud.  In 
the  course  of  time  we  arrive  at  Ujii,  where  we  find  only 
second-rate  accommodations,  but  are  grateful  for  any 
shelter  at  all.  The  inns  in  all  these  villages  are  filled 
to  overflowing  with  native  pilgrims  and  other  travelers. 
At  Yaita,  where  we  slept  last  night,  the  inn  was  so  full 
that  as  many  as  eight  men  and  women  were  packed 
together  in  small  rooms,  nine  feet  by  ten  in  size.  This 
is  repeated  in  this  hotel.  The  police  stations  through- 
out the  district  are  also  providing  accommodations  for 
the  wayfarers.  At  times  it  is  difficult  to  obtain  even 
inferior  rooms.  As  we  are  wet  and  chilly  I  administer 


FLOOD   AND   FRESHET.  287 

a  full  dose  of  quinine  and  sake  to  the  guide  and 
myself. 

Our  first  business,  before  changing  our  wet  clothing, 
is  to  ascertain  the  prospect  of  crossing  the  Kinugawa 
to-night.  Our  landlord  says  the  railroad  bridge  is  in 
such  a  weakened  condition  that  not  even  foot-passen- 
gers are  allowed  to  go  over  it,  and  that  the  temporary 
bridge  of  boats  was  washed  away  this  morning. 

I  am  not  satisfied  with  this  hopeless  report,  and  re- 
quest the  guide  to  go  to  the  police  station  and  obtain 
authentic  information.  He  confirms  the  landlord's 
statement. 

Still  unwilling  to  give  up  hope,  I  suggest  that  we 
cross  the  river  in  a  boat,  with  a  cable  stretched  over 
both  ends,  and  pulled  by  men  stationed  on  the  banks. 
But  I  am  told  that  last  night  a  man  was  so  determined 
to  cross  this  raging  flood  that  he  attempted  it  with  a 
single  boat  and  some  oarsmen.  No  sooner  did  the  boat 
strike  the  rapids  than  it  was  carried  swiftly  down  the 
current,  threatening  every  moment  to  capsize  ;  finally  it 
turned  over,  and  its  occupants  were  given  up  as 
drowned.  However,  they  were  found  this  morning, 
down  the  river,  three  miles  from  where  they  started, 
saved  only  by  a  miracle.  The  river  rose  six  feet  last 
night. 

Since  every  plan  fails,  I  resign  myself  to  remaining 
here  over-night,  hoping  to  make  an  early  start  to- 


288          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

morrow,  and  try  to  cross  the  river  at  a  point  five  miles 
from  here,  and  if  we  succeed,  to  take  jinrikishas  and 
ride  fifteen  miles  to  Utsu-No-Miya,  where  we  can  take 
the  train  for  Nikko.  While  I  am  writing,  the  guide 
comes  to  say  that  another  break  is  reported  in  the  rail- 
road between  Utsu-No-Miya  and  Nikko.  However,  I 
can  cross  but  one  bridge  of  trouble  at  once,  and  the 
latter  emergency  will  find  its  corresponding  action. 

The  rain  has  ceased,  the  wind  is  blowing,  and  heavily 
laden  clouds  are  hastening  across  the  sky. 

The  first  thing  a  Japanese  does  after  making  arrange- 
ments to  stay  at  an  inn  over-night  is  to  remove  his 
heavy  clothing,  and  put  on  a  light  kimono,  with  a 
silken  sash.  I  also  invariably  follow  this  custom  when 
traveling  in  this  country.  Tea  is  brought  to  my  room, 
and  with  a  cigarette,  I  am  happy  and  comfortable,  shut- 
ting out  for  a  time  the  troubles  which  perplex  me. 

I  have  seen  much  disease  in  Japan.  This  country 
is  noted  for  the  cleanliness  of  its  people,  but  with  all 
their  washing  they  are  unable  to  cleanse  themselves 
from  this  inheritance.  In  out-of-the-way  places,  where 
clothing  is  scant,  the  half-naked  bodies  of  the  natives 
reveal  sores  and  ill-health.  In  the  cities  this  is  not  so 
evident,  as  more  clothing  is  worn  than  in  the  country 
towns  and  villages.  I  carry  my  own  drinking- cup,  and 
wash  from  a  good-sized  basin  that  has  been  scoured 
until  it  shines  like  gold.  We  are  up  at  five  in  the 


FLOOD   AND   FRESHET.  289 

morning,  and  learn  that  the  prospect  for  crossing  the 
Kinugawa  in  large  sampans  is  favorable. 

My  guide  secured  three  jinrikishas  last  night,  and  at 
6.15  this  morning  they  are  at  the  door.  While  waiting 
for  the  guide  I  am  stared  at  by  a  large  crowd.  One 
young  woman,  looking  at  me  from  her  doorway,  is  ab- 
solutely naked,  and  I  also  stare  at  her  in  wonder.  We 
each,  no  doubt,  think  what  a  queer  creature  the  other  is. 
As  we  leave  the  village  the  sun  peeps  through  the 
clouds,  and  the  air  is  like  that  of  a  spring  morning.  I 
dare  not  think  how  long  this  will  last,  for  heavy  clouds 
are  even  now  grouping  themselves  on  the  horizon. 

The  road  from  Ujii  to  the  Kinugawa  is  in  good  order, 
and  our  men  run  the  entire  distance  of  five  miles  with- 
out stopping.  In  Japan  a  foot  measures  four  inches 
more  than  our  standard  feet,  consequently  their  miles 
are  longer  in  proportion. 

In  a  short  time  we  reach  the  river  bank,  where  we 
find  assembled  fully  a  hundred  natives,  men,  women, 
and  children,  who  also  are  waiting  to  cross.  Among 
these  is  a  Japanese  officer  of  high  rank,  who  served  in 
the  Japanese-Chinese  war.  We  make  his  acquaintance, 
and  he  formally  presents  to  me  his  card,  upon  which  I 
hand  him  mine.  Much  pleasant  conversation  follows, 
with  the  guide  as  interpreter.  His  card  bears  the  fol- 
lowing name  and  title:  "  S.  Lamejima,  Le  Colonel, 
Chef  d'Etat,  Major  de  la  Garde  Imperial."  He  wishes 
'9 


VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

me  success  in  my  journey  through  Japan,  and  regrets 
that  I  have  had  such  unpleasant  experiences  during  the 
past  few  weeks. 

The  efforts  of  my  guide  to  have  the  three  jinrikishas 
and  their  men  carried  over  the  river  in  the  large  sam- 
pan cause  considerable  delay.  The  owners  of  the  boat 
declare  that  it  will  capsize  with  such  a  weight,  and  that 
it  would  be  a  dangerous  experiment  to  attempt  it. 
However,  after  much  bargaining  and  persuasive  argu- 
ments, the  wagons,  men,  baggage,  and  ourselves  are 
snugly  settled  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat. 

The  river  is  wild  and  angry  and  the  current  swift. 
Strong  men  steer  the  boat  with  long  bamboo  poles  as 
we  shoot  out  into  the  rapids.  How  we  twist  and  turn  ! 
Sometimes  it  seems  that  we  must  surely  capsize  and 
everything  be  lost,  but  these  strong  armed  men,  with 
nerve  and  skill,  keep  the  boat  steadfast  to  its  course.  The 
excitement  is  at  its  height  when  we  are  in  the  middle  of 
the  stream,  where  the  current  is  deepest  and  the  waters 
form  a  whirlpool,  foaming  and  threatening  to  engulf 
us  as  they  rush  madly  over  us,  drenching  us  to  the 
skin.  After  a  severe  struggle,  lasting  nearly  a  half- 
hour,  we  reach  the  other  side,  and  find  our  boat  aground 
in  three  feet  of  water. 

Our  next  experience  is  being  carried  "  pick-a-pack  " 
by  coolies  to  dry  land,  which  is  a  sort  of  an  island.  Our 
wagons  and  baggage  are  also  brought  to  shore  in  safety. 


FLOOD   AND   FRESHET. 

We  walk  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  over  niud  and 
stones  till  we  come  to  a  swollen  stream,  the  Furussata, 
generally  a  small  and  unpretentious  current,  now  a 
rapid  river  enlarged  by  the  recent  rains.  We  cross  it 
by  another  large  boat.  While  waiting  on  the  bank  I 
perceive,  not  far  away,  the  wreck  of  the  large  railroad 
bridge  which  spanned  this  water  only  a  short  time  ago. 
In  ten  minutes  we  are  safely  landed,  though  over  shoe- 
tops  in  mud.  The  river  has  subsided  six  or  eight  feet 
since  yesterday,  otherwise  we  would  be  unable  to  cross 
it  to-day.  There  has  been  great  loss  of  life  and  prop- 
erty at  this  point.  Dozens  of  cottages  have  been 
swept  away  by  the  flood  in  the  last  few  days.  Only 
yesterday  a  house  in  the  neighborhood  was  washed 
away,  and  the  whole  family  of  five  persons  drowned. 
The  inhabitants  say  that  this  river  has  not  been  so  swol- 
len for  sixty  years.  We  walk  half  a  mile  on  solid 
ground,  then  resume  our  jinrikishas,  bid  the  courteous 
Japanese  officer  farewell,  and  start  off  on  a  six-mile 
ride  to  Utsu-No-Miya  Station,  arriving  at  10.10  A.  M., 
just  as  the  bell  rings  for  the  train  to  start  for  Nikko. 
My  guide  unselfishly  begs  me  to  enter  the  train  and 
go  on  to  Nikko,  while  he  will  await  the  arrival  of  the 
jinrikisha  with  our  baggage  and  follow  on  the  12.30 
train.  But  I  tell  him  I  will  not  desert  him  at  the  last 
minute ;  we  will  both  wait.  He  urges  me  repeatedly, 
and  finding  me  persistent  in  my  refusal  asks  the  guard 


292          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

if  he  cannot  hold  the  train  a  few  minutes  till  the  men 
appear.  The  obliging  guard  consents  to  wait  ten 
minutes,  saying  that  beyond  that  he  dare  not  delay  the 
train. 

The  greatest  interest  is  manifested  by  all  the  rail- 
road officials  in  the  arrival  of  our  jiurikisha.  Some  of 
the  passengers,  wondering  what  is  wrong,  get  out  and 
ask  questions.  A  crowd  quickly  gathers  at  the  station 
and  around  me.  Minutes  pass  and  no  sign  of  the 
jiurikisha.  Finally,  when  it  is  within  two  minutes 
of  starting  time  the  men  and  wagon  are  seen  in  the 
distance.  A  shout  of  joy  goes  up,  and  a  half-dozen 
men  from  the  station  run  at  the  top  of  their  speed  to 
meet  the  tardy  jinrikisha,  and  all  together  fairly  make 
it  fly  to  the  station.  It  is  exactly  twenty  minutes  past 
ten  when  the  baggage  is  placed  on  board  the  train. 
Another  glad  shout  fills  the  air.  I  bow  and  smile  and 
try  to  thank  the  people  for  their  good-will,  and  they 
bow  and  bow,  and  now  we  are  steaming  along  in  com- 
fortable cars  to  Nikko.  I  think  often  of  this  incident, 
as  well  as  of  many  other  kindnesses  shown  to  us  by 
these  good-natured  people,  and  wonder  would  an  Amer- 
ican train  wait  a  traveler's  convenience  in  any  State  in 
our  Union  ? 

In  Japan  I  can  honestly  say  that  whether  we  ask 
courtesies  of  the  railroad  or  police  officers,  innkeepers 
or  jinrikisha  men,  we  have  been  treated  with  a  uniform 


FLOOD   AND   FRESHET.  293 

kindness  that  is  worthy  of  note.  We  arrive  safely 
after  a  short  journey,  and  reach  the  Nikko  Hotel  in 
time  for  a  late  tiffin.  Few  events  of  importance  have 
transpired  during  our  absence.  The  little  stream,  the 
Daiya-gawa,  near  the  hotel,  has  become  a  wild  torrent, 
whose  pitching  and  tossing  makes  a  noise  like  that  of 
a  miniature  Niagara.  The  main  wagon  road  bordering 
the  stream  is  so  washed  in  places  that  it  is  impossible 
to  reach  the  hotel  by  jinrikisha.  Great  landslides  are 
visible  on  the  mountain  sides,  and  cascades  have  found 
their  way  into  the  hollows,  and  fallen  trees  and  exposed 
stumps  suggest  that  a  battle  has  been  fought  here- 
about. And  truly  there  has — a  fierce  battle  of  the  ele- 
ments. I  am  informed  that  a  half  a  dozen  or  more 
persons  have  been  drowned  in  this  neighborhood  in  the 
floods  of  the  past  few  days. 


TOKYO  AND  A  CIRCULAR  TOUR. 

We  leave  Nikko — Nakada — Tokyo  by  night — Novel  sights — A  fenc- 
ing school — Asakusa  Park — Shiba  Temple — Cherry  banks  of  Koganei 
— Master  wrestler — Carrying  a  god — Tokaido — Valley  of  the  Sakawa- 
gawa — Goteraba — Fuji-yama — Image  of  Kwannon — Nagoya — Shinachu 
Hotel — Many  merchants — Great  earthquake  of  1891 — Husking  rice 
boats — Cormorant  fishing— Ibuki-yama— Lake  Biwa— Vestiges  of  the 
storm. 

AFTER  a  rest  of  a  couple  of  days  we  take  up  our 
regular  plan  of  travel,  proposing  to  leave  here  to-mor- 
row for  Tokyo.  It  has  been  raining  in  Nikko  for  the 
past  five  days,  and  is  still  raining.  We  learn  that  the 
railroad  between  Nikko  and  Tokyo  is  badly  washed, 
and  in  some  places  covered  with  water  to  a  depth  of  ten 
or  twelve  feet,  and  that  passengers  to  the  latter  city  are 
conveyed  by  boat  over  the  breaks  in  the  road  and  across 
the  rice  fields  to  places  of  safety ;  also  that  we  can  go 
to  Tokyo  in  ten  hours,  three  of  which  are  by  boat.  •  A 
boat  capsized  this  morning  and  its  occupants  were 
thrown  out,  but  none  of  them  were  drowned.  We  are 
hoping  for  more  favorable  reports,  but  will,  in  any  case, 
attempt  to  reach  Tokyo  to-morrow  by  the  early  train. 
There  are  many  other  visitors  in  Nikko  and  the  neigh- 
borhood who  are  also  anxious  to  be  in  Tokyo  to-mor- 
row, and  will  take  the  train  with  us. 
294 


TOKYO   AND   A   CIRCULAR  TOUR.  295 

We  rise  early  and  find  the  sun  shining  brightly,  as 
if  to  give  us  a  good  send-off.  We  leave  Nikko  by  the 
7.30  train.  The  county  around  the  city,  seen  upon  a 
clear  day,  is  charming.  The  lofty  mountains  are  cov- 
ered with  verdure,  and  the  Daiya-gawa,  in  all  her 
moods,  is  picturesque.  We  arrive  at  Utsu-No-Miya 
Station,  where  we  change  cars,  and  in  about  twenty 
minutes  take  another  train,  which  carries  us  to  the  vil- 
lage of  Nakada.  We  can  go  no  farther  by  train,  for 
although  the  water  is  subsiding  in  other  places  the 
tracks  here  are  under  three  or  four  feet.  Large  sam- 
pans await  us,  and  taking  our  places  in  one  of  these, 
with  other  passengers,  we  are  sculled  to  a  temporary 
station  provided  by  the  railroad  company. 

We  have  been  rowing  over  a  submerged  village, 
where  the  houses  are  under  twenty  feet  of  water.  The 
temporary  station  is  made  of  canvas  stretched  over  long 
poles  to  protect  us  from  the  sun.  Benches  are  here, 
made  of  rough  boards.  There  are  fully  four  hundred 
people  here  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  train.  Having 
brought  a  lunch  from  the  hotel  we  now  do  it  ample 
justice.  The  native  travelers  also  eat  their  meal  of 
rice  and  tea. 

We  have  waited  here  since  11.45  this  niorning,  and 
it  is  two  o'clock  before  a  shrill  whistle  announces  the 
approaching  train,  and  an  engine  draws  a  long  line  of 
empty  passenger  coaches  up  beside  the  station.  Then 


296          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

follows  a  comical  sight !  There  is  a  great  scramble 
for  the  cars.  Some  of  the  people,  in  their  eagerness 
actually  jump  through  the  windows.  How  I  would 
like  to  photograph  the  picture !  And  now  they  are 
all  in  and  we  are  off,  really  off,  for  Tokyo.  We  cross 
the  Tone-gawa  on  a  fine  iron  bridge,  which  was,  several 
days  ago,  under  thirteen  feet  of  water. 

We  reach  Tokyo  without  further  event,  and  go  to  the 
Imperial  Hotel.  In  the  evening  we  take  jinrikishas 
and  ride  about  the  city.  It  is  a  beautiful  sight ;  more 
like  a  dream  city  than  one  in  real  life.  The  odd-look- 
ing buildings,  with  hundreds  of  lighted  lanterns 
hanging  before  them,  and  the  throngs  of  pedestrians 
on  the  sidewalks  are  all  so  unlike  anything  we  see  at 
home,  that  we  are  filled  with  delight  at  every  turn. 
In  the  midst  of  our  enjoyment  a  sudden  and  severe 
shower  compels  us  to  make  a  hasty  retreat  to  our 
hotel. 

We  are  up  bright  and  early  this  morning,  eat  our 
breakfast,  and  are  ready  for  the  jinrikishas  which  our 
guide  engaged  for  us  last  night.  We  go  at  a  good 
pace,  for  we  have  two  strong  men  to  each  of  our  wagons. 
We  go  first  go  to  Kudan  Park,  where  we  visit  the  tem- 
ple of  Shokonsha,  also  the  museum,  which  is  filled 
with  interesting  trophies  of  the  late  war  with  China. 
We  then  ride  to  Ueno  Park.  This  is  a  very  pretty 
place,  with  enormous  artificial  lakes,  rockeries,  cas- 


TOKYO   AND   A   CIRCULAR   TOUR.  297 

cades,  and  shrubbery,  and  it  is  famous  for  its  temples, 
tombs,  and  cherry  trees. 

We  have  a  very  good  lunch  at  the  Foreign  Hotel,  the 
only  one  in  this  section  and  the  first  one  of  the  kind 
built  in  Tokyo.  We  then  visit  the  Zoological  Gardens 
close  by,  where  we  see  the  usual  elephants,  lions, 


THE  CONTESTANTS  ARE  SEATED  IN  A  SMALL  ROOM  TEN  FEET  SQUARE. 

tigers,  monkeys,  etc.     The  gardens  are  attractive  but 
the  number  of  animals  is  small. 

Having  expressed  a  desire  to  see  some  good  Japa- 
nese fencing,  our  guide  surprises  us  by  announcing 
that  he  has  made  arrangements  for  a  special  u  bout " 
in  one  of  the  best  fencing  schools  in  Tokyo.  This 


298          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

news  gives  us  great  pleasure,  and  we  soon  find  our- 
selves in  the  presence  of  the  first  master  of  this  art  in 
the  city.  The  contestants  are  seated  in  a  small  room 
about  ten  feet  square,  waiting  to  be  called  to  the  arena. 
This  arena  is  a  space  twenty  feet  by  forty,  with  rough 
seats  facing  it  and  an  awning  overhead  to  protect  us 


A  MAN  AND  A  WOMAN  FENCE  WITH  SWORDS.' 

from  the  sun.  Here  we  are  entertained  for  an  hour  and 
a  half.  Japanese  fencing  is  quite  different  from  that 
taught  in  the  Italian  or  French  schools. 

Their  manner  of  handling  the  sword  is,  however, 
dexterous,  and  would  be  effective  in  warfare.  A  man 
and  a  woman  fence  with  swords,  the  honor  of  victory 


TOKYO   AND   A   CIRCULAR   TOUR.  299 

being  won  by  the  latter.  Then  a  man  with  "  pick  and 
sling  "  competes  with  one  with  a  sword,  and  vanquishes 
him. 

After  all  the  exercises  are  over  I  am  invited  to  enter 
the  ring  and  show  master  and  pupils  how  fencing  is 
taught  in  America.  They  seem  surprised  at  the  dif- 
ference, and  the  master  tries  his  skill  against  mine  to 
the  amusement  of  the  spectators.  The  nimbleness 
and  adroitness  with  which  the  Japanese  fence  is  worthy 
of  note.  They  are  so  quick  and  subtle. 

The  following  day  we  visit  Aasakusa  Park.  The 
grounds  of  this  park  are  very  large,  and  hundreds  of 
natives  are  strolling  about  within  the  enclosure.  We 
learn  that  this  is  one  of  the  festival  days,  but  even  on 
ordinary  occasions  this  is  one  of  the  liveliest  places  in 
Tokyo.  Here  may  be  seen  rare  shows,  penny  gaffs, 
performing  monkeys,  cheap  photographers,  street 
artists,  theatrical  and  other  figures  in  painted  wood  or 
clay,  and  venders  of  toys  and  lollipops  of  all  sorts. 
Here  also  are  the  Pagoda  and  the  great  bell  tower,  in 
which  the  bell,  which  is  heard  all  over  the  city,  is  rung 
at  intervals.  The  interior  of  Aasakusa  Temple  is  well 
worth  a  visit.  This  temple  is  dedicated  to  Kwannon, 
and  a  fabulous  antiquity  is  claimed  for  the  image 
worshiped  here  which,  it  is  said,  was  drawn  up  in  a 
fishing  net  on  the  neighboring  coast  by  an  exiled  noble- 
man in  the  early  part  of  the  sixth  century.  The  won- 


300          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

derful  image  is  never  seen,  but  it  is  supposed  to  be 
only  an  inch  and  three-quarters  in  height.  The  dis- 
proportion between  the  size  of  the  image  and  the  vast- 
ness  of  the  temple  has  occasioned  much  remark. 

The  temples  of  Shiba  are  among  the  chief  marvels 
of  Japanese  art,  especially  the  highly  ornamented  gate 


INTERIOR  OF  AASAKUSA  TEMPLE. 

called  Ni-ten-Mon  and  the  magnificent  tomb  of  the 
second  Shogun,  which  would  repay  any  one  who  has 
time  to  study  them  closely.  Wonderful  is  the  amount 
of  labor  bestowed  upon  the  temples  which  are  seen 
everywhere  throughout  Japan,  and  well  may  it  be  called 
the  country  of  temples.  Volumes  could  be  written 


TOKYO   AND  A  CIRCULAR   TOUR. 


301 


TOKYO   AND   A   CIRCULAR   TOUR.  303 

upon  the  traditions,  architecture,  carving,  and  surround- 
ings of  these  masterpieces  of  art,  and  even  then  the 
subject  would  not  be  exhausted.  In  the  Murray  Hand- 
book of  Japan  may  be  found  many  traditional  and  his- 
toric records  of  the  sacred  edifices. 

It  is  late  in  the  season  for  the  Cherry  banks  of  Koga- 
nei,  and  there  are  only  green  leaves  on  the  trees  that 
form  an  avenue  two  miles  and  a  half  in  length  along 
the  canal,  but  we  can  imagine  the  beautiful  sight  about 
the  middle  of  April  with  the  gay  crowds  assembled 
under  the  pink  and  white  blossoms.  Now  scores  of 
natives  are  promenading  along  the  banks  of  this  little 
stream.  The  thoroughfare  is  so  crowded  that  we  are 
obliged  to  leave  our  wagons  and  walk.  It  is  really  a 
great  sight,  this  gathering  of  men,  women,  and  children 
of  all  ranks  and  conditions. 

As  we  return  to  the  city  we  visit  the  school  of  Nobu 
Shige  Tago,  Master  Art  Wrestler.  Here  in  a  room 
twelve  feet  square  is  given  a  private  exhibition  of  wrest- 
ling by  boys  from  ten  to  sixteen  years  of  age.  The 
professor  is  a  good  teacher,  judging  by  the  skill  of  his 
pupils.  These  boys  are  taught  to  become  professional 
wrestlers.  On  our  way  back  to  the  hotel  we  pass  along 
the  quays  and  by  some  dismal  streets  to  the  main  thor- 
oughfare. 

Tokyo  is  a  vast  city,  and  contains  nearly  a  million 
inhabitants.  This  afternoon  we  have  a  fine  oppor- 


304          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

tunity  of  seeing  the  various  tradesmen  at  work  in  their 
shops.  While  passing  through  one  of  the  side  streets 
we  have  a  curious  experience.  We  suddenly  come 
upon  a  crowd  of  many  hundred  people  of  both  sexes 
and  all  ages,  huddling  together,  screaming,  and  appar- 
ently fighting  over  a  small  temple  borne  on  the 


WHILE  PASSING  THROUGH  ONE  OF  THE  STREETS  WE  HAVE  A  CURIOUS 
EXPERIENCE. 

shoulders  and  thrown  from  side  to  side  in  the  struggle. 
As  the  crowd  comes  our  way  I  am  somewhat  alarmed. 
Not  wishing  to  be  in  the  midst  of  a  mob,  I  call  the 
guide,  and  ask  him  what  it  means  ?  He  tells  us  to  get 
out  of  the  wagons  and  stand  aside  until  the  frantic 


TOKYO    AND    A    CIRCULAR   TOUR.  305 

throng  lias  passed.  It  seems  that  the  natives  fre- 
quently carry  a  small  temple  on  their  shoulders  through 
the  streets.  The  temple  is  supposed  to  contain  a  god, 
or  rather  the  spirit  of  one,  and  if  allowed  to  stop  before 
a  house  the  inhabitants  of  such  house  will  be  haunted 
by  a  demon.  Consequently,  all  the  people  before  whose 
houses  the  temple  passes  make  every  effort  to  prevent 
its  stopping.  Hence  the  dreadful  scrabble,  some  of  the 
people  insisting  that  it  shall  stop,  others  madly  deter- 
mined that  it  shall  move  on. 

At  last  we  reach  our  spacious  and  elegant  hotel, 
which  is  upon  the  European  plan.  The  table  is  good, 
and  meals  are  served  in  courses.  How  much  could  be 
written  of  Tokyo !  But  much  would  always  be  left 
unsaid,  for  Japan  is  interesting  at  every  turn,  whether 
in  city  or  country. 

We  leave  Tokyo  for  Yokohama  to-day  at  1.30  P.  M.S 
and  arrive  in  two  hours,  going  to  the  Grand  Hotel, 
where  we  rest  and  plan  a  circular  tour  to  Kyoto,  Osaka, 
and  Kobe,  which  we  hope  to  accomplish  in  two  or  three 
weeks. 

At  8.30  this  morning  we  leave  Yokohama,  expecting 
to  reach  Nagoya  at  half-past  seven  this  evening,  and  go 
on  to  Kyoto  to-morrow.  The  railroad  in  many  places 
runs  parallel  with  the  old  Tokaido,  or  highway  between 
Tokyo  and  Kyoto,  and  from  our  car  windows  we  see 

many  jinrikishas  and  pedestrians  on  this  road.     The 
20 


306          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 


word  Tokaido  signifies  "  Eastern  sea  road,"  and  was 
given  to  the  road  at  an  early  date  on  account  of  its 
running  along  the  seashore  in  an  easterly  direction 
from  Kyoto,  which,  being  the  old  historic  capital,  was 
regarded  as  the  starting  point.  And  even  at  the  pres- 
ent time  it  seems  as  if  all  roads  lead  to  Kyoto. 


FROM  OUR  CAR  WINDOWS  WE  SEE  MANY  PEDESTRIANS  ON  THIS  ROAD. 

From  the  seventeenth  century  onward  the  Tokaido 
was  traversed  twice  yearly  by  Daimyos  coming  with 
gorgeous  retinues  to  pay  their  respects  to  the  Shogun 
at  Yedo,  and  all  the  chief  towns  here,  as  well  as  on  the 
other  great  highways  of  the  empire,  were  provided  with 
especially  fine  tea  houses  for  their  lordships'  entertain- 


TOKYO   AND   A   CIRCULAR   TOUR.  307 

ment.  The  greater  portion  of  the  beautiful  avenue  of 
pine  trees  which  lined  this  road  still  exists,  and  may 
be  seen  from  the  car  windows.  The  railroad  on  which 
we  are  traveling  was  begun  in  1872,  and  completed  in 
1889.  It  reduces  to  seventeen  hours  the  journey  from 
Tokyo  to  Kyoto,  formerly  laboriously  accomplished  on 
foot  in  twelve  or  thirteen  days.  The  day  is  charming, 
the  air  clear  and  cool.  We  are  fortunate  enough  to 
have  a  first-class  compartment  to  ourselves,  and  can 
make  ourselves  perfectly  comfortable. 

After  we  leave  Fuji-sawa  the  beautiful  mountains  of 
Hakone  come  into  view,  and  many  fine  bits  of  scenery 
are  visible  from  our  car  window.  Now  on  the  left  the 
ocean  spreads  itself  out  to  add  a  greater  charm  to  the 
picture.  At  Kozu  our  road  turns  inland  to  avoid  the 
Hakone  Mountains.  Here  the  country  is  wild  and 
rugged.  Now  and  then  we  see  a  queer  looking  little 
house  of  one  story  with  a  roof  thatched  with  straw. 
The  scenery  is  impressive,  with  an  abundance  of  pic- 
turesque subjects  that  I  shall  not  soon  forget.  At 
Yamakita  we  have  an  extra  engine  attached  to  carry  us 
up  an  ascent  of  fifteen  hundred  feet  to  Goteinba  Sta- 
tion, which  is  the  highest  point  on  this  line.  The 
mountains  here  are  so  numerous  that  we  pass  through 
tunnel  after  tunnel  in  rapid  succession.  I  counted 
seven  of  them  within  a  short  time. 

At  Sano  we  have  a  magnificent  view  of  Fuji-yama  in 


308          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

all  the  glory  of  its  majestic  height,  standing  out  against 
a  cloudless  sky,  and  presenting  one  of  the  grandest 
landscapes  in  the  whole  of  Japan.  This  giant  moun- 
tain, the  pride  of  every  Japanese,  can  never  be  seen  to 
greater  advantage  than  to-day,  as  it  rarely  appears  so 
perfectly  free  from  clouds  to  its  very  summit.  There 


FUJI-YAMA   IN   ALL   THE   GLORY  OF   ITS   MAJESTIC    HEIGHT. 

are  many  other  lofty  mountains  quite  close  to  our  be- 
loved Fuji.  It  is  a  scene  of  wonderful  beauty,  almost 
too  great  for  words.  We  gaze  and  gaze  until  it 
vanishes  in  the  distance.  I  sit  silent,  thinking  of  the 
noble  mountain,  of  the  towering  peak  in  its  misty 
purple  robe,  heightened  in  color  by  the  pale  blue  of  the 


TOKYO   AND   A   CIRCULAR   TOUR.  309 

sky  at  its  back.  The  surrounding  mountains  too  are 
blended  in  such  perfect  harmony  of  color !  Yes,  this 
is  the  greatest  scene  in  Japan. 

Glimpses  of  the  ocean  and  distant  mountains  come 
to  us  as  the  train  winds  serpent-like  upon  its  course. 
When  we  stop  at  the  stations  the  natives,  as  usual, 
stare,  and  call  their  friends  to  look  at  us. 

Between  the  stations  of  Washizu  and  Toyohashi  the 
guide-books  tell  you  that  a  fine  bronze  image  of  Kwan- 
non,  ten  feet  high,  dating  from  the  year  1765,  can  be 
seen  perched  on  a  pinnacle  of  rock.  We  strain  our 
eyes  to  see  this  relic,  and  at  last  perceive  it,  but  it  is 
so  small  that  one  could  easily  pass  by  in  the  train  with- 
out noticing  it. 

Between  Yokohama  and  Nagoya  we  cross  several 
long  and  well-constructed  iron  bridges,  spanning  wide 
rivers.  The  trains  do  not  slacken 'their  speed  while 
going  over  them  or  in  passing  through  the  tunnels, 
and  I  think  of  the  probability  of  accidents  and  our 
poor  chances  of  escape  in  some  of  these  narrow 
passes.  After  twelve  hours  of  continuous  travel 
we  reach  Nagoya  at  8.30  p.  M.,  and  ride  at  once  to 
the  Shinachu,  a  foreign  hotel.  While  at  supper  we 
are  surrounded  by  merchants,  who  offer  various 
wares  for  sale.  They  all  talk  at  once,  making  a 
perfect  bedlam.  Swords,  wood  and  straw  work,  and 
cloisonne  are  spread  out  before  us.  These  men  have 


310          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

a  peculiar  habit  of  attacking  the  stranger  as  soon  as 
he  arrives. 

We  find  the  town  full  of  life  and  interest.  Its  popu- 
lation is  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand,  and  it  is 
noted  for  its  manufacture  of  porcelain,  cloisonne,  fans, 
and  silks.  As  I  write  I  can  hear  from  an  adjoining 
room  the  peculiar  native  drawl  called  singing,  accom- 
panied by  the  samisen,  played  by  some  young  girls.  I 
have  been  in  Japan  long  enough  for  these  sounds  to  be 
quite  familiar. 

We  visit  the  odd  stores  and  stroll  about  this  flourish- 
ing provincial  city.  The  castle,  now  closed  to  visitors, 
is  still  one  of  the  wonders  of  Japan.  It  was  built  in 
1610  by  twenty  great  feudal  lords,  to  serve  as  the  resi- 
dence of  leyasu's  son.  It  is  preserved  by  the  imperial 
household  department  as  a  monument  of  historic  inter- 
est. The  golden  dolphins  on  the  top  of  the  five-storied 
donjon  can  be  seen  glittering  all  over  the  city.  The 
Buddhist  temple  of  Higashi  Hongwanji  is  a  wonderful 
structure,  whose  exterior  and  interior  are  equally  grand. 

We  leave  Nagoya  at  7.20  on  a  bright,  beautiful  morn- 
ing, and  part  also  with  the  picturesque  Tokaido,  on  our 
way  to  Kusatsu.  The  country  presents  only  a  succes- 
sion of  rice  plantations  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see.  Boys 
and  girls  are  loitering  along  the  road  with  their  school- 
bags  at  their  sides,  and  full  of  harmless  pranks,  quite 
amusing  to  the  spectator.  The  thrifty  farmer,  in  his 


TOKYO   AND   A   CIRCULAR   TOUR.  311 

straw  hat,  is  weeding  or  otherwise  attending  to  his 
various  fields  with  strangely  shaped  hoe  and  plough. 
Here  is  a  group  of  workmen  who  appear  like  a  bunch 
of  mushrooms  as  they  stoop  over  their  tasks. 

Natives  pass  along  with  their  long  poles  balanced  at 
either  end  by  baskets  containing  various  goods.  Others 
carry  loads  no  less  heavy  on  their  heads.  Always  in- 
teresting, the  types  of  life  to  be  seen  on  the  public 
road  are  many  and  quaint.  Off  in  the  distance  are  the 
mountains  dividing  the  provinces  of  Owari  and  Mino 
from  those  of  Omi  and  Ise.  We  are  entering  the  dis- 
trict of  the  great  earthquake  of  October,  1891.  At 
Ichinomiya  most  of  the  houses  have  been  rebuilt  and 
other  damages  repaired.  The  crowds  of  people  walk- 
ing hither  and  thither  surprise  us. 

The  houses  in  the  villages,  the  shrines  and  temples 
never  lose  their  interest  for  us.  These  shrines  and 
temples  are  profusely  decorated  with  flags  and  offerings 
in  celebration  of  the  various  festivals  that  are  held 
upon  certain  days  throughout  the  year  in  the  different 
provinces.  In  many  of  the  cottage  windows  appear 
plants  and  flowers,  offerings  to  the  moon,  which  is  full 
and  brilliant  at  this  time.  As  we  cross  the  Kisogawa, 
which  is  lovely  at  every  point,  we  observe  a  number  of 
strange  looking  boats  on  the  river,  and  learn  that  they 
are  called  "  Husking  Rice  boats,"  and  that  their  great 
water-wheels  are  turned  by  the  force  of  the  current. 


312          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

Picturesque  villages  nestle  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
making  an  unusually  attractive  scene,  while  scores  of 
sampans  move  up  and  down,  or  across  the  stream,  with 
huge  cargoes  and  a  single  oarsman.  On  the  mountain 
sides  deep  gulches,  caused  by  landslides  resulting  from 
the  earthquake,  are  visible.  As  we  approach  Gifu  Sta- 
tion we  perceive  the  devastation  caused  by  the  recent 
floods.  Hundreds  of  acres  of  farm  land  are  still  under 
water,  and  men  are  at  work  upon  the  railroad,  which 
was  a  short  time  since  submerged. 

At  Gifu  the  famous  cormorant  fishing  is  carried  on 
in  the  summer  months.  Cormorants  are  raised  by  the 
natives,  and  large  quantities  of  fish  are  caught  in  this 
manner  in  the  Nagara-gawa.  The  only  point  of  attrac- 
tion here  is  the  mountain  chain  which  we  are  approach- 
ing, and  which  opens  to  let  our  train  pass  through  a 
narrow  but  exceedingly  pretty  valley.  We  have  two 
engines  now  and  are  gradually  ascending.  On  our 
right,  and  towering  far  above  the  others,  is  the  great 
Ibukiyama,  king  of  all  the  mountains  in  this  region, 
four  thousand  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  bare  of 
trees  or  other  vegetation,  but  famous  in  the  early  ages 
for  its  wealth  of  medicinal  plants.  It  is  one  of  the 
"  Seven  High  Mountains "  of  central  Japan.  At 
Nagaoka  we  have  a  fine  view  of  this  mountain,  which 
stands  out  in  bold  relief  with  its  many  precipices  and 
hollows  distinctly  outlined  in  the  clear  atmosphere.  It 


TOKYO   AND   A   CIRCULAR   TOUR.  313 

is  a  magnificent  spectacle.  From  Nagaoka  we  descend 
rapidly,  coming  into  a  full  view  of  the  mountains  that 
border  Lake  Biwa  on  the  north  and  south,  but  no  por- 
tion of  the  lake  is  yet  visible.  On  our  right,  after  we 
have  left  Nagaoka  miles  behind  us,  Ibukiyama  looms 
up  again  with  a  funnel-shaped  cloud  now  about  its 
summit  that  gives  it  the  appearance  of  an  active  vol- 
cano. The  coloring  of  the  whole  picture  is  exquisite. 

At  Maibara  we  have  our  first  glimpse  of  Lake  Biwa. 
This  beautiful  body  of  water,  really  the  Lake  of  Omi, 
is  generally  called  Biwa  on  account  of  a  fancied  resem- 
blance in  shape  to  a  Chinese  guitar.  It  lies  three  hun- 
dred and  thirty-three  feet  above  sea  level,  and  is  thirty- 
six  miles  long  and  twelve  wide.  According  to  a  legend 
long  believed  in  by  the  Japanese,  Lake  Biwa  was  pro- 
duced by  an  earthquake  in  the  year  286  B.  c.,  while 
Mount  Fuji  rose  up  from  the  plain  of  Suruga  at  the  same 
time. 

Everywhere  around  us  are  traces  of  the  recent  flood. 
Houses  and  shops  are  under  four  and  five  feet  of  water, 
and  judging  by  marks  quite  plain,  the  water  has  been 
at  least  three  feet  higher.  Small  boats  filled  with 
people  are  being  rowed  from  house  to  house  and  along 
the  streets.  Many  of  the  houses  have  tumbled  down, 
others  are  leaning  and  ready  to  fall.  The  railroad 
tracks  have  been  repaired,  but  for  miles  the  farm  lands 
are  entirely  submerged.  The  country  appears  like  a 


314          VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

great  lake,  and  the  scene  is  one  of  general  devastation. 
In  consequence  of  this  inundation  we  leave  train  at 
Hikoue,  and  take  jinrikishas  to  a  neighboring  inn  for 
tiffin.  The  tracks  are  completely  submerged  from  Hi- 
kone  to  Baba  Station,  and  trains  can  proceed  no  farther. 

At  eleven  o'clock  our  guide  informs  us  that  the  steam- 
boat company  will  run  a  special  steamer  to  accommo- 
date the  great  number  of  passengers  awaiting  trans- 
portation, and  we  hastily  gather  our  things  together 
and  engage  jinrikishas  to  take  us  to  the  water's  edge, 
which  is  now  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  Here  we  hire 
a  large  sampan,  and  are  rowed  down  the  street  between 
houses  that  are  deserted  and  flooded  with  from  eight  to 
ten  feet  of  water.  Our  hearts  are  filled  with  sympathy 
for  the  poor  villagers  thus  made  homeless  and  penniless  ; 
yet  every  one  we  meet  seems  cheerful  and  happy.  This 
is  the  natural  disposition  of  the  Japanese,  no  matter  how 
great  the  trouble. 

After  rowing  for  a  half-hour  we  reach  Lake  Biwa, 
and  espy  in  the  distance  the  little  steamer  that  is  to 
take  us  to  Otsu.  Hundreds  of  passengers  have  gath- 
ered at  this  point,  and  as  sampan  after  sampan  arrives 
with  its  human  freight  we  have  a  picture  of  national 
life,  rarely  seen  even  by  the  traveler  in  Japan. 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  FORMER  DAYS. 

A  steamer  on  Lake  Biwa— Kyoto— Shops— Queer  combinations— The 
Daibutsu  — Great  bells  of  Japan— Punishing  children — Burning  the 
body — Advertisements  of  medicines— Servants  of  the  gods— Supplicat- 
ing the  gods — Selling  children— Tsumiya,  Naka-gawa-Tokumon  — 
Kiyomizu  Temple— Junk  trees — Tea  culture  -Kinkakuji— Chion-in  — 
The  33,333  images  of  Kwannon — Temple  of  Inari. 

WE  wait  and  wait,  but  there  is  no  movement  to  take 
us  on  board.  It  is  now  nearly  four  o'clock,  and  the 
steamer  was  to  start  at  half-past  eleven  or  twelve.  The 
traveler  in  Japan  soon  acquires  the  bad  habit  of  never 
starting  on  schedule  time.  After  being  exposed  to  the 
hot  rays  of  the  sun  for  a  long  time  I  direct  our  guide 
to  have  our  boat  rowed  to  the  side  of  the  steamer  and 
request  them  to  take  us  on  board.  There  are  fully 
four  hundred  people  waiting.  I  wonder  how  this  little 
boat  can  hold  them  all !  Its  capacity  seems  about  two 
hundred.  They  come  and  come,  and  the  decks  sink 
lower  and  lower,  till  they  almost  touch  the  water.  And 
we  are  to  travel  twenty  miles  with  this  heavy  cargo ! 
Heaven  help  us  in  case  of  an  accident !  We  are 
packed  like  sardines,  with  no  life  preservers,  and  only 
one  lifeboat  six  feet  long.  We  are  truly  "  between  the 
devil  and  the  deep  sea." 


316          VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

However,  we  arrive  safely  at  Otsu  at  eight  o'clock  in 
the  evening,  and  are  transferred  from  the  steamer  to 
land  by  sampans.  This  town  also  has  been  inundated, 
and  temporary  paths  are  made  of  wood.  Taking  jin- 
rikishas  to  Kyoto  we  arrive  at  the  Yaami  Hotel,  tired 
and  hungry,  and  after  enjoying  a  good  supper  we  retire 


WE  STEP  ON  THE  BALCONY  OUTSIDE  OUR  ROOM  AND  HAVE  OUR  FIRST 
VIEW  OF  KYOTO. 

to  a  comfortable  room  with  clean  beds,  and  close  our 
eyes  with  prayers  of  thanksgiving  that  we  have  been 
carried  safely  through  the  perils  of  the  day.  Refreshed 
by  a  restful  night  we  step  on  the  balcony  outside  our 
room  and  have  our  first  view  of  Kyoto.  What  a  charm 


THE   CAPITAL  OF   FORMER   DAYS.  317 

each  new  city  has  to  our  unaccustomed  eyes !  The 
whole  appearance  resembles  nothing  that  we  have  ever 
seen.  Instead  of  the  tall  buildings  of  our  American 
cities  we  see  houses  that  are  very  low,  and  only  a  faint 
white  curl  of  smoke  will  occasionally  appear  above  a  roof. 
Kyoto  is  a  city  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 


WE  VISIT  THE  VARIOUS  MANUFACTURING  ESTABLISHMENTS. 

inhabitants,  and  is  famous  for  its  pottery  and  porcelain, 
its  fine  embroideries,  its  velvets  and  brocades,  its 
bronzes  and  its  cloisonnes  ;  also  for  its  many  temples, 
for  there  are  at  least  a  hundred  and  fifty  of  no  mean 
size  in  the  city.  We  spend  much  of  our  time  riding 
about  the  city  and  visiting  the  various  manufacturing 


318          VACATION   DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

establishments  and  the  most  noted  temples.  We  are 
greatly  entertained  by  the  English  signs  that  hang  be- 
fore some  of  the  shops.  One  reads,  "  Milk  and  Gen- 
tlemen's Hats ;"  another,  "  Portrait  Painter  and 
Manila  Cigars,"  and  there  are  many  more  combinations 
just  as  odd. 

Much  might  be  said  of  these  temples,  both  ancient 
and  modern,  but  I  shall  not  attempt  any  description, 
but,  with  a  few  illustrations,  will  endeavor  to  give  some 
idea  of  their  grandeur,  architectural  style,  and  exquisite 
coloring. 

One  of  our  first  visits  is  to  the  Daibutsu,  or  Great 
Buddha.  This  idol  consists  only  of  a  head  and  shoul- 
ders, but  even  thus,  it  reaches  to  the  ceiling  of  the  lofty 
hall  in  which  it  is  kept.  It  is  made  of  wood,  and  the 
head  is  gilded.  It  is  fifty- eight  feet  high  and  forty •= 
three  feet  across  the  shoulders. 

In  a  separate  building,  not  far  from  the  Great  Buddha, 
hangs  one  of  the  great  bells  of  Japan.  This  bell  is  of 
bronze,  nine  inches  thick,  nearly  fourteen  feet  high  and 
nine  feet  in  diameter.  It  weighs  more  than  sixty-three 
tons,  and  is  larger  than  that  of  Ta-chung-szu  in  Pekin, 
which  has  been  considered  the  largest  suspended  bell 
in  the  world.  Its  companion  in  size  is  at  Chion-in, 
also  in  Kyoto.  For  a  few  sen,  given  to  the  attendant, 
one  may  have  the  privilege  of  swinging  a  great  log  that 
is  suspended  beside  the  bell,  which,  swaying  to  and  fro 


THE   CAPITAL   OF   FORMER   DAYS.  319 

with  much  force,  strikes  the  bell,  producing  a  volu- 
minous musical  sound  which  is  heard  all  over  the  city. 
The  pleasure  of  hearing  these  full,  rich  tones  is  so 
great  that  I  repeat  the  operation  many  times. 

While  traveling  in  Japan  one  is  constantly  and  un- 
pleasantly compelled  to  notice  the  deep  scars  that  dis- 
figure the  bodies  of  the  men,  women,  and  children,  as 
well  as  the  numerous  sores  exposed  to  view. 

Burning  the  body  is  practiced  throughout  Japan  for 
three  different  purposes.  First,  as  a  punishment ;  sec- 
ondly, by  jinrikisha  men,  wrestlers,  and  laborers  to  pro- 
duce strength  where  muscles  are  deficient ;  and  thirdly, 
as  a  cure  for  different  kinds  of  disease.  There  are 
special  doctors  in  the  cities  and  in  some  of  the  country 
towns  who  make  this  their  profession.  Learning  from 
the  guide  that  there  are  several  of  these  specialists  in 
Kyoto,  I  visit  one  of  the  most  prominent  of  these  men. 

We  find  the  doctor  in  his  office  and  operating  room. 
We  sit  upon  the  floor,  and  the  guide  states  the  object 
of  our  call.  On  the  wall  is  a  life-sized  drawing  of  the 
human  figure,  inscribed  with  certain  lines  and  dots, 
used  to  designate  the  corresponding  places  to  be  burned 
on  the  patient's  body  in  cases  of  certain  diseases  or 
deficient  muscle.  On  the  floor  in  the  middle  of  the 
room  are  two  large  iron  pots  filled  with  ashes  upon 
which  several  sticks  of  red-hot  charcoal  rest.  The  day 
being  rainy,  the  doctor  regrets  that  no  patients  are 


320          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

present,  but  says  lie  will  illustrate  the  process  of  burn- 
ing upon  his  own  person.  Suiting  the  action  to  the 
word  he  takes  from  a  box  beside  him  a  small  piece  of 
sponge  or  punk,  which  he  forms  into  a  little  pyramid, 
and  places  upon  his  bare  arm.  He  lights  the  pyramid 
with  a  stick  of  charcoal,  and  it  burns  slowly  until  it 
reaches  the  flesh.  The  odor  of  burning  flesh  is  quite 
perceptible ;  the  pyramid  is  allowed  to  remain  on  the 
arm  until  a  deep  hole  is  burned.  This  is  the  whole 
process.  Places  of  sometimes  an  inch  in  diameter  are 
burned  in  extreme  cases.  If  a  jinrikisha  man,  whose 
work  requires  muscle,  lacks  this  in  his  legs  or  arms,  he 
is  burned  on  the  part  which  is  deficient,  and  expects 
thus  to  attain  the  necessary  strength  of  muscle,  or,  if 
a  patient  is  afflicted  with  disease,  as  rheumatism  for 
instance,  he  is  burned  on  the  part  of  the  body  indicated 
by  the  diagram  on  the  wall. 

As  we  ride  through  the  city  streets  we  are  much 
diverted  by  the  odd  advertisements  upon  the  porches 
of  some  of  the  shops.  A  burned  turtle  of  great  size, 
also  a  burned  cat,  dog  or  snake  appear  in  separate 
and  conspicuous  spots,  indicating  that  medicine 
made  from  the  powder  of  such  animals  and  reptiles 
is  sold  within.  Such  medicines  are  extensively  used 
throughout  Japan.  Think  of  taking  cat,  dog  or 
snake  powder  for  headache  or  dyspepsia !  These, 
with  a  thousand  other  things,  remind  us  constantly 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  FORMER  DAYS. 


321 


that  we  are  many,  many   miles  away  from  our  own 
civilized  homes. 

About  the  various  temples  are  ever  seen  throngs  of 
pilgrims  carrying  baskets  of  rice  and  other  food  to  feed 
the  servants  of  the  gods,  who  are  supposed  to  dwell  in 
little  wooden  buildings  made  especially  for  them  upon 


GION  STREET,  KYOTO. 

the  temple  grounds.  A  hole  is  cut  in  the  side  of  the 
house  only  large  enough  to  admit  the  hand.  Rice, 
beans,  and  other  food  can  be  bought  at  the  shops  which 
line  the  neighboring  streets.  This  food  is  thrown  into 
the  houses  of  the  sacred  servants,  and  the  devotee  claps 

his  hands,  and  kneeling  with  bowed  head  prays  for  the 
21 


322          VACATION    DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

blessing  he  desires  from  this  especial  god.  Quite  a 
thriving  business  is  done  by  the  shops  which  sell  the 
goods  approved  by  the  gods.  Thus  the  gods  keep  the 
people,  and  the  people  keep  the  gods.  Here  are  a 
mother  and  her  pretty  daughter  making  supplications 
to  a  god ;  and  to  insure  the  granting  of  their,  petition 


QUITE  A  THRIVING  BUSINESS  is  DONE  BY  THE  SHOPS. 

it  is  necessary  for  them  to  walk  a  hundred  times  around 
this  small  house.  The  older  woman  holds  in  her  hand 
two  hundred  long  narrow  strips  of  paper,  and  each  time 
they  complete  the  circuit  of  the  building  she  turns 
down  two  of  the  slips,  one  for  her  daughter  and  one  for 
herself. 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  FORMER   DAYS.  323 

We  visit  some  renowned  cloisonne  manufacturers, 
and  observe  their  interesting  but  tedious  process,  which 
requires  skill  and  training  of  the  highest  order.  We 
see  also  the  workers  in  Damatium,  or  gold  and  silver 
inlaid  on  steel.  At  my  request  the  proprietor  of  one 
of  these  places  presents  me  with  a  beautiful  sample  of 
the  work  just  before  completion,  and  still  mounted  on 
the  workman's  block. 

In  all  these  factories  we  are  amazed  to  see  such  diffi- 
cult work  accomplished  by  small  boys,  some  of  them 
not  over  eight  or  ten  years  of  age.  We  learn  that  it 
is  still  the  custom  in  Japan  for  parents  to  sell  their 
children  to  the  tradesmen,  receiving  an  annual  income 
for  their  services ;  and  they  sell  not  only  the  present 
generation,  but  frequently  children  yet  unborn. 

Our  guide  arranges  for  a  visit  to  "  The  Enclosure  "• 
and  to  its  most  fashionable  inn,  in  which  the  demi- 
monde of  the  highest  class  dwell.  The  name  of  the 
inn  is  Tsumiya,  Nakagawa-Tokumon,  and  we  are  in- 
formed that  the  officers  of  the  Mikado  are  frequent 
guests  here.  The  landlady  allows  us  to  go  over  the 
whole  house.  The  rooms  contain  no  furniture  whatever, 
but  are  decorated  with  gorgeous  and  exquisitely  embossed 
panels  and  embroidered  draperies.  They  are  named 
the  "  Fan  Room,"  the  "  Peacock  Room,"  the  "  Horse 
Room,"  etc.,  from  the  paintings  with  which  walls  and 
ceilings  are  lavishly  adorned. 


324          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

We  are  entertained  in  a  large,  handsome  reception 
room  on  the  first  floor,  where  we  seat  ourselves  on 
cushions  and  are  served  with  tea  and  candy.  Then  the 
landlady  says  we  may  have  the  privilege  of  seeing  three 
women  of  the  highest  rank,  who  are  the  favorites  of  the 
royal  household.  One  by  one  these  distinguished  beau- 
ties appear  in  richest  robes  and  costly  jewels.  They 
dance  gracefully  before  us,  every  movement  betokening 
delicacy  and  refinement.  These  girls  are  treated  with 
the  greatest  honor,  and  are  surrounded  with  every  lux- 
ury. They  neither  toil  nor  spin,  yet  their  glory  and 
privileges  are  equal  to  any  women  in  Japan.  They 
are  attended  when  they  choose  to  walk  about  the  Enclo- 
sure, and  when  they  go  into  the  city,  which  is  seldom, 
their  escort  is  of  the  highest  rank.  Their  children,  it 
girls,  are  reared  to  fill  positions  similar  to  the  mothers. 
We  spend  an  hour  in  this  celebrated  domicile,  then, 
with  an  "  Arigato  "  to  our  hostess,  depart,  much  wiser 
than  we  came  in  matters  of  this  kind. 

I  must  not  omit  the  Kyomizu-dera  (dera  or  tera, 
Buddhist  for  temple),  whose  origin,  the  guide-book  tells 
us,  is  lost  in  the  mists  of  ancient  fable.  There  is  an 
interesting  legend  of  the  goddess  Kwannon  having  ap- 
peared to  the  novice,  Hnchin,  disguised  as  an  old  man, 
and  bidding  him  build  the  temple,  or  rather  an  image 
of  the  compassionate  one  (Kwannon),  of  a  log  that 
lay  before  him.  After  twenty  years  of  great  difficulty 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  FORMER  DAYS. 


325 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  FORMER   DAYS. 


327 


the  work  was  accomplished,  and  the  warrior,  Sakanoe- 
no-Tamura  Maro,  chancing  upon  this  spot  in  pursuit  of 
a  stag,  was  so  struck  with  the  untiring  devotion  of  the 


A    DISTINGUISHED    BEAUTY. 


novice  that  he  gave  his  own  house  to  be  pulled  down  and 

re-erected  beside  this  cascade  as  a  temple  for  the  image. 

We  proceed  on  foot  along  the  road  named  Kiyomizu, 

in  honor  of  the  temple.     Hundreds  of  shops  line  the 


328          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

street,  and  here  may  be  found  almost  any  article  one 
could  name  in  the  china,  glass,  or  pottery  line.  Here 
are  many  curiously  shaped  and  decorated  cups,  plates, 
and  vases,  and  for  a  few  sen  the  dealer  will  part  with 
any  article  that  meets  your  fcncy. 

The  temple  is  an  odd,  ancient-looking  structure,  built 


KYOMIZU-DERA,  WHOSE  ORIGIN  is  LOST  IN  THE  MISTS  OF  ANCIENT  FABLE. 

upon  massive  piles.  Within  are  many  things  that  in- 
terest us,  and  we  meet  scores  of  sight-seers,  as  well  as 
pilgrims  and  other  worshipers,  at  the  shrine  of  the 
sacred  image.  Walls,  pillars,  ceilings,  and  every  other 
available  spot  are  lavishly  adorned  with  painting?  by 
the  old  Japanese  masters. 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  FORMER  DAYS. 


329 


The  main  temple  is  dedicated  to  the  "  eleven-faced, 
thousand-handed  Kwannon,"  whose  image,  a  little  over 
five  feet  high,  is  enclosed  in  a  shrine  that  is  opened 
only  once  in  thirty-three  years.  Lights  are  always 
kept  burning  in  the  temple,  and  worshipers  pass  in  and 
out  all  night  long. 


JUNK  TREES  ARE  CARED  FOR,  WOODEN  HOOPS  SOMETIMES  ENCIRCLING  THE 

BRANCHES. 

In  our  drives  we  note  the  artistic  manner  in  which 
the  Junk  trees  are  cared  for,  wooden  hoops  sometimes 
encircling  the  branches,  which  are  also  trained  to  rep- 
resent enormous  vines.  The  bamboo  groves  are  also  a 
novel  sight.  These  branchless  trees,  straight  as  arrows, 


330          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

shoot  up  to  a  height  of  forty  or  fifty  feet,  and  some  of 
them  have  considerable  circumference.  Innumerable 
articles  may  be  made  of  this  wood. 

I  have  scarcely  mentioned  one  of  the  greatest  indus- 


BAMBOO  GROVES  ARE  ALSO  A  NOVEL  SIGHT. 

tries  of  Japan — the  tea  culture.  Thousands  of  acres  are 
devoted  to  this  branch  of  trade.  The  tea  is  generally 
gathered  by  little  girls,  who  are  quite  expert  in  pluck- 


THE   CAPITAL   OF   FORMER   DAYS. 


331 


ing  the  leaves.  When  gathered  it  is  baled  and  shipped 
to  a  factory,  where  it  is  dried  by  artificial  heat,  then  re- 
packed and  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  com- 
mon tea  in  Japan  ranges  in  price  from  twenty-five  to 
fifty  sen  a  pound,  while  the  finer  grades  command  from 
one  to  seven  yen  a  pound. 


THE  TEA  is  GENERALLY  GATHERED  BY  LITTLE  GIRLS. 

We  enjoy  much  a  visit  to  Kinkakuji,  or  more  prop- 
erly, Rokuonji,  a  monastery  of  the  Zen  sect,  which  re- 
ceives its  popular  name  from  the  kinkaku  or  golden 
pavilion  in  the  grounds  attached  to  it.  In  1397  Ashi- 
kaga  Yoshimitsu  having  resigned  the  title  of  Shogun 
to  his  youthful  son,  built  himself  a  palace  at  this  place. 


332          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII    AND   JAPAN. 

He  shaved  his  head  and  assumed  the  garb  of  a  Buddhist 
monk,  while  still  in  reality  directing  the  affairs  of  state. 
The  garden  is  picturesque,  with  a  charming  lake  in  the 
centre,  bordered  with  pine  trees,  and  a  little  pine  grove 
island.  The  lake  is  stocked  with  carp,  which  are 
accustomed  to  being  fed  by  visitors>  and  will  come  in 
crowds  at  the  clapping  of  hands  to  where  the  pieces  of 
cake  or  cracker  are  thrown.  These  fish  are  looked 
upon  as  sacred,  and  are  never  caught  or  killed. 

The  "  golden  pavilion,"  which  once  shone  with  daz- 
zling glory,  is  dull  and  worn,  bereft  of  all  its  gold. 
The  apartments  contain  folding  and  sliding  screens, 
and  kakemonos  by  the  most  celebrated  Japanese  artists, 
besides  relics  and  autographs  of  the  Shoguns  and  other 
celebrities. 

The  temple  of  Chion-in  stands  upon  a  hill  in  eastern 
Kyoto.  A  broad  avenue  lined  with  cherry  trees  leads 
up  to  it.  This  temple  was  founded  in  1211  A.  D.,  by 
Hnko-Daishi,  who  developed  a  new  doctrine,  called  the 
road  to  the  "  Pure  Land,"  from  which  a  sect,  known  as 
Jodo,  meaning  pure  land,  was  named.  Chion-in  is  the 
principal  monastery  of  this  sect.  These  temples  are 
universally  simple  and  imposing,  impressing  one  with 
the  solemnity  of  his  surroundings,  and,  like  all  the 
others,  this  one  contains  many  objects  of  interest  within 
its  walls.  Near  it  stands  the  bell  tower,  completed  in 
1618,  containing  the  great  bell.  The  height  of  this 


THE   CAPITAL   OF   FORMER   DAYS.  333 

bell  is  ten  feet  eight  inches,  its  diameter  is  nine  feet,  it 
is  nine  and  one-half  inches  thick,  and  weighs  nearly 
seventy-four  tons.  This  bell  was  cast  in  1633. 

I  must  not  omit  the  San-ju-sen-gen-do,  or  the  temple 
of  the  thirty-three  thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  images  of  Kwannon.  Few  temples  in  Japan  are 
more  interesting.  Here  are  rows  upon  rows  of  gilded 
images,  all  representing  the  eleven-faced,  thousand- 
handed  goddess  of  mercy.  There  are,  however,  but 
one  thousand  large  images,  the  number  being  obtained 
by  including  the  small  effigies  on  the  foreheads,  on  the 
halos,  and  in  the  hands  of  the  larger  images.  There 
are  thirty-three  spaces  between  the  pillars,  which  form 
a  single  row  from  end  to  end  of  the  temple. 

We  visit  also  the  Shinto  temple  of  Inari,  which  was 
founded  in  711  A.  D.,  when  the  Goddess  of  Rice,  accord- 
ing to  fable,  first  manifested  herself  on  the  hill  behind 
the  temple.  Kobo  Deishi,  it  is  said,  met  an  old  man 
carrying  a  sheaf  of  rice  on  his  back,  and  recognized  in 
him  the  deity  of  this  temple,  hence  the  name  Inari, 
which  signifies  rice  man. 

The  chief  entrance  to  the  temple  is  by  the  great  red 
torii  on  the  main  road,  then  up  a  flight  of  steps  and 
through  a  large  gate  flanked  by  immense  stone  foxes,  to 
the  Haiden,  or  oratory ;  thence  one  comes  to  the  chief 
chapel,  the  pillars  of  whose  portals  are  plain,  the  rest 
of  the  walls  and  pillars  being  painted  red  or  white. 


334          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

Numberless  shrines  are  attached  to  this  temple,  but  we 
do  not  visit  them  all. 

As  we  approach  the  little  Oku-no-in  we  pass  through 
more  than  four  hundred  small  red  wooden  torii,  placed 
so  as  to  form  two  nearly  parallel  colonnades,  one  ascend- 
ing, the  other  descending.  These  torii  have  a  very 
peculiar  effect,  drawn  thus  in  line,  being  of  all  sizes 
and  states.  As  each  bears  an  inscription  relating  to 
the  donor,  they  are  monuments  to  the  deceased. 


KOBE,  OSAKA,  AND  NARA 

A  Geisha  dance — Losses  by  flood— To  Kobe— Nunobiki  Waterfalls — 
Iwamoto,  the  bamboo  worker — Osaka — Wrestling  match — Satsuma — 
Cotton  fields— A  first-class  compartment — Nara— Avenue  of  lanterns — 
Tame  deer — Temple  of  Kasuga-no-Miya — Daibutsu— Naraningyo — Re- 
turn to  Kyoto— Sobei  Kinkozan — Young  ladies'  school — Kyoto  Castle — 
Imperial  Palace. 

QUITE  gayly  we  enter  our  jinrikishas  and  set  out  for 
the  tea  house,  in  which,  as  we  are  informed  by  our 
guide,  a  first-class  Geisha  dance  is  to  be  held.  On  our 
way  to  this  entertainment  we  pass  a  street  culled  Zezeura 
Street,  which  is,  we  learn,  monopolized  by  the  demi- 
monde. We  see  the  frail  young  people  sitting  at  the 
small  windows,  some  of  them  looking  miserable  enough. 
This  is  a  dismal  street.  The  lamp  on  each  house  is  so 
placed  as  to  cast  a  bright  light  upon  the  inmate,  and  I 
pity  the  poor  creatures,  who  seem  to  have  no  means 
of  escaping  their  wretched  mode  of  existence. 

Arriving  at  the  inn,  we  are  ushered  into  a  large  room 
on  the  second  floor,  where,  to  our  surprise,  chairs  are 
provided  for  us.  The  room  is  bright  and  attractive 
with  candles  and  lanterns.  The  musicians,  three  girls, 
enter  with  their  respective  instruments  and  sit  upon  the 
floor  in  front  of  us,  playing  and  singing  Japanese  airs. 
In  about  twenty  minutes  six  little  girls,  looking  like 

335 


336          VACATION   DAYS  IN   HAWAII  AND  JAPAN. 

Japanese  dolls,  appear,  arid  seat  themselves  between  us 
on  the  floor,  and  smile  and  smile,  and  look  so  charm- 
ingly innocent  that  we  are  completely  fascinated.  Soon 
one  of  them  rises,  and,  stepping  to  the  centre  of  the 
room,  begins  a  graceful  dance,  keeping  time  with  the 
music.  Then  another  rises,  and  then  a  third  takes  her 


THE  MUSICIANS  (THREE  GIRLS)  ENTER  AND  SIT  UPON  THE  FLOOR  IN 
FRONT  OF  Us. 

turn,  and  finally  the  three  dance  together.     Bach  time 
the  movement  is  of  a  different  character. 

The  Japanese  dances  differ  greatly  from  ours.  They 
know  nothing  of  waltzes,  polkas,  or  quadrilles,  but  rep- 
resent by  their  dances  some  ideal  picture,  such  as  the 


KOBE,  OSAKA,  AND  NARA. 


337 


planting,  growth,  and  death  of  a  flower ;  the  planting 
and  harvesting  of  rice  ;  a  scene  in  which  the  lover  pays 
his  devotion  to  his  lady,  and  others  of  a  similar  nature. 
After  each  dance  these  little  tots  come  before  us  with 
profound  bows,  and  seat  themselves  at  our  feet.  The 


THE  WHOLE  Six  GEISHAS  GIVE  us  A  BEAUTIFUL  KXAMPLE  OF  THE  VARIOUS 
STYLES  OF  DANCING. 

whole  six  Geishas  give  us  a  beautiful  example  of  the 
various  styles  of  dancing. 

When   this    part   of    the   entertainment   is    over   a 

sumptuous  repast  of  Japanese  food  is  set  before  us  ill 

Japanese  fashion.     It  consists  of  rice,  rice  cakes,  and 

rice  candy,  pickles,  fruit,  and  sake.     The  dancers  and 

22 


33$  VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

musicians  share  the  banquet  with  us.  As  these  little 
creatures  sit  close  beside  us,  for  we  too  are  now  sitting 
apon  the  floor,  they  amuse  themselves  by  admiring  and 
touching  the  jewelry  worn  by  the  ladies  and  gentlemen 
of  our  party.  A  young  actor  now  appears  with  a  two- 
handled  sword  and  executes  many  skillful  movements. 
He  also  imitates  the  notes  of  a  number  of  birds  and 
animals,  as  well  as  different  musical  instruments,  by 
means  of  a  small  piece  of  a  leaf  held  in  his  mouth. 
His  last  act  is  something  quite  wonderful.  He  stands 
a  bamboo  stick  about  eight  feet  high  and  fully  three 
inches  in  diameter  upon  the  floor,  and  with  a  single 
stroke  of  his  sword  cuts  it  completely  asunder.  With 
this  act  the  entertainment  closes.  The  landlady  bids 
us  sweetly,  "  Kom-ban-wa,"  and  the  Geishas  bow  their 
heads  to  the  floor  and  repeat,  "  Sayonara,"  until  we  are 
in  our  jinrikishas  and  have  started  for  home. 

Having  seen  the  most  interesting  temples  and  other 
places  of  note  in  Kyoto  we  leave  this  city  for  Kobe. 
The  recent  rains  have  completely  inundated  the  fields 
along  our  route,  and  much  property  has  been  destroyed. 
It  is  estimated  that  fifty  million  dollars  would  barely 
cover  the  losses  in  southern  Japan  by  these  floods.  The 
rice  fields  here  are  still  under  from  three  to  five  feet  of 
water.  We  arrive  at  Kobe  at  6.20  P.  M. ,  after  a  journey 
of  two  hours  and  a  half,  and  go  to  the  Oriental  Hotel, 
which  is  under  Japanese  management,  and  excellently 


KOBE,  OSAKA,  AND  NARA. 


339 


conducted.  The  rooms  are  of  good  size,  fully  fur- 
nished, and  combine  the  comforts  of  an  English  and 
American  hotel.  Meals  are  first-class,  and  a  full  brass 
band,  composed  of  Japanese  musicians,  plays  English 
and  American  airs  during  the  hours  passed  in  the  din- 
ing-room, affording  much  pleasure  to  the  foreign  guests. 


ORIENTAL  HOTEL,  KOBE. 

Although  to-day  is  Sunday,  it  does  not  interfere  with 
one's  plans  for  sight-seeing.  Stores  are  open  and  busi- 
ness is  transacted  without  any  restrictions  whatever. 
Beyond  the  fact  that  every  city  and  village  in  Japan  is 
interesting  to  the  foreigner,  there  is  little  worthy  of 
note  in  Kobe.  We  pass  through  the  town  on  our  way 


340         VACATION   DAYS  IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

to  the  Nunobiki  Waterfalls,  and  after  a  half-hour's  ride 
leave  the  jinrikishas  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  and 
ascend  on  foot  to  the  Men-daki,  or  Female  Fall,  which 
is  forty-three  feet  high,  and  is  surrounded  by  tall  pine 


MEN-DAKI,  OR  FEMALE  FALL,  KOBE. 


trees.  Near  the  fall  is  a  pretty  tea  house  with  a  fine 
view  of  the  fall  from  its  porch.  Here  are  a  dozen 
or  more  pretty  little  tea  girls,  all  anxious  to  serve  us. 


KOBE,  OSAKA,  AND  NARA. 


341 


In  summer,  when  it  is  warm  enough,  the  women  bathe 
here  perfectly  naked,  for  this  is  their  especial  bathing 
ground.  Farther  up  the  mountain  side  is  the  On-daki, 
or  Male  Fall,  eighty-two  feet  high,  which  is  generally 
reserved  for  men  and  boys,  although  men  and  women 
bathe  together  at  either  fall.  These  are  the  Nunobiki 


WE  RIDE  ALONG  THE  BUND  OR  QUAY. 

Falls.  As  we  ride  through  the  streets  of  Kobe  we  stop 
at  some  of  the  shops  and  purchase  several  articles  of 
odd  patterns  and  curious  workmanship.  We  then  call 
upon  the  famous  and  only  Iwamoto,  whom  we  find 
engaged  in  a  difficult  carving  on  a  bamboo  cane.  His 
work,  very  elaborate  and  highly  finished,  is  generally 


342          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

executed  on  boxes,  canes,  and  similar  objects.  He  is 
said  to  excel  all  workmen  in  Japan  in  his  special  line 
of  carving. 

We  ride  along  the  bund  or  quay,  where  we  see  a 
small  number  of  ships.  Kobe  was  opened  to  foreign 
trade  in  1868.  When  we  return  to  the  hotel  for  tiffin 
we  are  pleasantly  surprised  by  meeting  some  friends 
whose  acquaintance  we  made  in  Yokohama.  How 
home-like  it  is  to  meet  these  new  acquaintances  at  the 
various  stages  of  our  travel !  They  seem  like  friends 
of  long  standing.  At  1.45  P.  M.  we  take  the  train  for 
Osaka,  going,  on  our  arrival,  to  the  Osaka  Hotel,  which 
is  a  large  building  recently  erected  by  a  syndicate  of 
Japanese  capitalists.  It  is  poorly  furnished,  barn-like 
and  uninviting,  impressing  one  with  the  idea  that  all 
the  funds  were  exhausted  in  building  and  nothing  left 
for  furnishing.  After  depositing  our  traps  in  a  cheer- 
less room,  we  start  out  on  a  tour  of  sight-seeing. 

Osaka  contains  many  stores  of  no  mean  pretensions, 
which  offer  great  inducements  to  the  foreigner.  We 
visit  the  noted  Satsuma  ware  establishment  of  Yabu 
Meizan,  the  most  prominent  manufacturer  in  Japan, 
and  are  shown  an  inexhaustible  stock  of  this  exquisite 
porcelain,  and,  judging  by  his  exorbitant  prices,  Yabu 
Meizan  is  certainly  more  than  an  ordinary  manufac- 
turer. Small  teacups  and  saucers  range  as  high  as 
twenty  and  thirty  yen  apiece,  and  even  more  than  that. 


KOBE,  OSAKA,  AND  NARA.  343 

We  have  a  glimpse  of  the  castle,  but  do  not  go  in, 
as  our  time  is  limited. 

Learning  that  there  is  to  be  a  wrestling  match  at  the 
"  Commons  "  this  afternoon,  we  repair  thither,  and  find 
fully  two  thousand  spectators,  mostly  men,  assembled 
under  an  immense  canvas  tent.  When  we  enter,  after 


THE  WRESTLERS  ARE  LARGE  FELLOWS,  OF  GREAT  WEIGHT  AND  MUSCLE. 

paying  a  small  admission  fee,  the  wrestling  is  quite 
under  way.  At  the  most  critical  points  in  the  contest, 
the  audience  give  vent  to  their  excitement  by  cries  of 
"  Ya  !  Ya !  Ya !"  They  do  not  applaud  with  hands  or 
feet,  as  the  spectators  in  such  places  do  in  our  country. 
The  wrestlers  are  large  fellows,  of  great  weight  and 


344          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND   JAPAN. 

muscle,  and  wear  only  the  close-fitting  loin  cloth.  The 
umpire  stands  near,  to  settle  the  contest  at  the  decisive 
moment.  These  matches  may  be  seen  at  almost  any 
city  in  Japan.  Gambling  and  betting  are  indulged  in, 
and  they  are  attended  by  the  lower  classes  of  the 
people. 

We  return  to  the  hotel,  tired  and  hungry,  to  find 
little  comfort  and  poor  fare.  We  leave  here  to-morrow 
for  Nara.  We  pass  a  wretched  night,  as  the  beds  are 
lacking  in  feathers,  hair,  or  husks,  whichever  it  may 
be,  although,  from  our  feelings,  the  mattresses  might 
be  made  of  corncobs. 

We  take  the  ten  o'clock  train  this  morning  for  Nara, 
passing  many  acres  of  cotton  fields  where  hundreds  of 
men,  women,  and  boys  are  at  work.  This  section  of 
the  country  is  largely  interested  in  raising  cotton  and 
manufacturing  cotton  fabrics.  There  are  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, large  mills  of  modern  architecture  worked  by 
the  latest  and  best  foreign  machinery. 

The  traveling  native  is  always  an  object  of  great 
interest  to  the  foreigner.  Here  is  a  prim  little  maiden, 
shy,  coy,  and  proper,  sitting  gracefully  on  the  car 
cushions,  with  her  dainty  feet  under  her.  She  never 
flirts  or  smiles.  I  speak  of  the  Japanese  maiden  of 
the  first  class.  The  lower  classes  are  much  less  refined 
in  manners  and  customs. 

We  reach  Nara  at  11.50  without  event.     Nara  was 


KOBE,  OSAKA,  AND  NARA.  345 

the  capital  of  Japan  during  several  reigns,  from 
709  A.  D.  to  784.  On  our  way  to  the  temple  of 
Kasuga-no-Miya,  we  pass  through  avenues  of  stone 
lanterns,  of  which  it  is  said  that  no  one  knows  the 
number.  At  various  places  along  the  road  to  the  tem- 
ple are  small  tea  houses,  at  which  one  can  buy  cakes 
with  which  to  feed  the  tame  deer  that  follow  the 
wagons.  These  deer  are  trained  to  bow  several  times 
at  the  word  "  O-hayo.M  (good  morning)  and  always 
expect  this  reward.  Then  we  ride  through  a  long 
avenue  of  standing  lanterns,  many  of  which  are,  it  is 
said,  lighted  every  night.  The  temple  was  founded 
about  767  A.  D.,  at  the  request  of  Take-Mikazuchi,  who 
rode  to  Nara  on  a  white  deer  in  search  of  a  new  resi- 
dence, then  summoned  three  other  gods  to  come  and 
dwell  with  him  there.  The  bright  red  of  the  different 
temples,  and  the  numberless  brass  lanterns  with  which 
they  are  hung,  are  in  strong  contrast  to  the  beautiful 
green  of  the  magnificent  cryptomerias  which  are  seen 
everywhere  between  the  buildings. 

After  strolling  about  the  grounds  for  some  time  we 
return  to  our  jinrikishas  and  proceed  to  the  temple, 
which  contains  the  largest  Daibutsu  in  Japan.  This 
image  of  Buddha,  fifty-three  feet  in  height,  is  in  a  sit- 
ting position,  with  the  legs  crossed  and  the  right  hand 
uplifted.  It  was  cast  in  749  A.  D.  The  work  is  not  so 
finely  executed  as  that  of  the  Daibutsu  at  Kamakura, 


346          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

but  it  is  a  wonderful  image,  and  lias  experienced  strange 
vicissitudes. 

We  walk  about  the  temple  grounds.  In  the  spacious 
courtyard,  in  front  of  the  Daibutsu,  we  see  an  ancient 
bronze  lantern,  carved  in  open  work  with  Buddhist 
images  and  conventional  animals.  It  was  executed,  it 


WE  PROCEED  TO  THE  TEMPLE,  WHICH  CONTAINS  THE  LARGEST  DAIBUTSU 

IN  JAPAN. 

is  said,  by  a  Chinese  artist  of  the  eighth  century,  and 
is  not  only  the  finest,  but  the  earliest  specimen  of  such 
work  in  existence. 

We  stop  at  many  of  the  shops  about  here  and  make 
purchases,  among  which  are  several  sword  canes.     The 


KOBE,  OSAKA,  AND  NARA. 


347 


swords  of  these  canes  were  made  by  a  famous  Japanese 
sword-maker  named  Saiyo-Kokaj i-Munecliika.  We  also 
invest  in  some  small  wooden  figures,  exquisitely  carved 
and  colored.  These  figures  are  called  Naraningyo,  and 


LARC.KST  DAIBUTSU  IN  JAPAN. 

are  intended  to  represent  the  characters  in  the  lyric 
dramas  of  mediaeval  Japanese  literature,  known  as  the 
"  No  Dances."  There  is  little  to  interest  us  in  Nara 


VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

beyond  the  temples,  the  Avenue  of  Lanterns,  the  Great 
Bell,  and  the  Daibutsu,  and  having  seen  these  we  take 
the  train  for  Kyoto,  passing  on  our  journey  thither 
nothing  worthy  of  note  except  the  large  tea  plantations 
for  which  this  section  is  famous.  The  most  expensive 
tea  in  Japan  is  raised  here. 

Once  more  we  are  in  pleasant  and  comfortable  apart- 
ments 111  the  Yama  Hotel  in  Kyoto.  After  breakfast 
our  guide  tells  us  that  we  have  a  "  big  day "  before 
us,  and  must  make  an  early  start.  Our  shopping  in 
this  city  must  be  finished  to-day,  as  we  leave  to-morrow 
morning  at  seven  o'clock  for  Shizuoka. 

We  visit  first  the  world-renowned  Sobei-Kinkozan, 
manufacturer  of  porcelain  and  cloisonne,  who  is  most 
attentive  to  us,  and  takes  great  pains  to  explain  and 
show  us  the  entire  process  of  the  work.  In  return  for 
his  kindness  we  purchase  some  of  his  choicest  articles. 

We  are  then  taken  to  a  private  dancing  and  music 
school  for  young  ladies.  We  are  much  interested  here 
in  observing  the  different,  methods  of  instructing  the 
young  girls  in  the  arts  of  dancing,  music,  and  needle- 
work. The  building  is  divided  into  many  rooms,  and 
the  instruction  is  given  by  women  teachers.  In  the 
first  room  which  we  enter  about  a  dozen  girls  sit  in 
front  of  a  raised  platform  observing  attentively  one 
of  their  classmates,  who  is  dancing  under  the  individ- 
ual instruction  of  the  teacher.  The  movements  are 


KOBE,  OSAKA,  AND  KARA.  349 

graceful  and  pretty,  and  considerable  practice  is  neces- 
sary before  the  pupil  can  make  either  a  private  or  pub- 
lic engagement.  We  enter  many  of  the  rooms.  In 
some  the  girls  are  being  taught  to  play  on  different 
instruments,  such  as  the  taiko,  a  sort  of  drum  ;  the 
tsuzumi,  the  gekkin,  the  koto,  and  the  saniisen.  These 
little  Geishas,  as  they  are  called,  are  often  pretty  and 
attractive.  Their  happy  and  innocent  faces  would  fill 
any  house  with  sunshine. 

A  special  permit,  obtained  from  the  Foreign  Minis- 
ter, is  required  for  a  visit  to  the  castle.  The  well 
guarded  buildings  and  spacious  grounds  are  beautiful 
in  their  simplicity.  Magnificent  paintings,  elaborately 
decorated  screens  and  exquisite  wood  carvings  in  won- 
derful designs  are  in  the  many  rooms  through  which 
we  pass.  A  special  permit  for  each  individual  is  also 
required  for  the  Imperial  Palace.  Upon  entering  the 
office  each  visitor's  name  is  recorded  in  a  massive  book 
kept  for  that  purpose.  Name,  date,  residence,  and 
occupation  must  be  plainly  written  before  any  attention 
is  shown  the  visitor  by  the  attendants.  The  buildings 
and  interior  decorations  are  superb.  Many  hours 
might  be  spent  admiring  the  skill  of  these  masters 
who  are  represented  here,  each  excelling  all  others  in 

his  own  line  of  work. 

NOTE. — The  city  of  Kyoto  pays  its  policemen  from  six  to  ten  yen  a 
month,  requiring  them  to  report  for  duty  every  other  day.  They  are 
provided  with  clothing  but  not  food. 


LAST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN. 

Miyanoshita— A  strange  shampooer— The  Fujiya  Hotel— Bamboo 
canes  and  American  climate— Hot  springs— An  American  breakfast— 
Dogashima — Yumoto — Yokohama — Farewell  to  Japan — On  board  the 
"Coptic" — At  sea— The  iSoth  meridian — Died  at  sea — First  sight  of 
land — Cricket  -Candy  pull — Honolulu— 800 coolies — Leaving  Honolulu 
— Betting  on  the  pilot — San  Francisco— A  snow  storm — Summit  Station 
—The  Rockies  —Chicago — Philadelphia. 

WE  take  the  early  morning  train  from  Kyoto  for 
Sliizuoka.  The  journey  is  but  an  hour,  and  our  stay 
here  is  transient,  as  we  leave  on  the  10.12  A.  M.  train 
for  Miyanoshita.  As  we  leave  the  station  I  observe  the 
crowd  staring  at  a  calm,  dignified  Japanese  personage 
attended  by  five  officers  with  swords.  Upon  inquiry  I 
learn  that  this  is  Mr.  Kabayama,  the  present  Home 
Minister  of  Japan,  and  late  general  in  the  recent  Jap- 
anese-Chinese war. 

The  ride  from  Gotemba  Station  to  Oyama  lacks 
interest,  as  mist  and  rain  obscure  our  view  of  the  beau- 
tiful, majestic  Fuji-yama.  We  arrive  at  Kozu  at  half- 
past  twelve,  and  take  a  horse  tram-car  to  Yumoto,  which 
is  the  terminus  of  that  line.  Here  we  take  jinrikishas 
and  ride  to  Miyanoshita,  arriving  at  the  Fujiya  Hotel 
at  5.45  p.  M.  What  we  can  see  of  the  country  through 
the  mist  is  wild  and  mountainous.  It  must  be  pictur- 
350 


LAST   DAYS   IN  JAPAN. 


351 


esque  and  beautiful  when  the  day  is  clear.  The  rain 
seems  as  though  it  has  come  to  stay,  as  is  usually  the 
case  with  rain  in  Japan.  This  hotel  is  conducted  on 
the  European  plan,  and  is  very  elegant  as  well  as 
admirably  managed.  The  rooms  are  clean,  spacious, 
and  first-class  in  every  particular. 


VIEW  OF  TONOSAWA. 

Last  night  I  engaged  a  shampooer  to  give  me  mas- 
sage night  and  morning  at  the  rate  of  twenty-five  sen 
an  hour.  This  massage  is  quite  different  from  that  in 
our  country,  and  much  less  pleasant.  The  man,  who 
assumed  the  title  of  a  professional,  insisted  upon  put- 
ting his  feet  on  the  bed  and  rubbing  me  in  that  man- 


352  VACATION    DAYS    IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

ner.  I  objected  to  his  creeping  over  my  bed,  but  he 
said  it  could  be  done  iu  no  other  way.  I  then  took  off 
the  sheets  and  told  him  to  give  me  the  treatment  on 
the  mattress. 

This  morning  it  is  still  raining,  and  a  heavy  mist 
hangs  over  everything.  We  had  intended  remaining 
here  a  few  days  to  visit  the  Hakone  Lake  region  and 
take  the  famous  Ten  Province  Pass  to  Atami,  but  as 
we  are  informed  by  a  guest  in  the  hotel  that  the  rain 
has  been  pouring  for  several  days,  and  there  is  no  pros- 
pect of  clear  weather,  we  decide  to  pack  up  and  hie 
away  to  Yokohama.  We  manage,  however,  to  take  in 
some  of  the  scenes  about  us.  The  hotel  is  beautifully 
situated,  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains  whose  tower- 
ing peaks  seem  guarding  us.  A  pretty  garden  is  in 
front  of  it,  and  there  are  lovely  walks  for  those  who 
come  here  in  dry  weather.  Not  far  from  the  hotel  is 
the  village  of  Miyanoshita,  a  small  settlement,  com- 
posed almost  entirely  of  shops,  where  one  may  pur- 
chase trinkets  and  souvenirs,  inlaid  work,  canes  and 
fancy  odds  and  ends  for  a  few  sen.  These  articles  are 
pretty  and  cheap,  but  let  the  tourist  beware  of  those 
made  of  wood,  and  if  he  thinks  that  the  climate  of 
Japan  and  America  are  similar,  let  him  take  the  advice 
of  those  whom  experience  has  taught  otherwise. 
Almost  every  article  of  wood  when  unpacked  in 
America  is  found  ruined  by  shrinking.  These  articles 


LAST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN. 


353 


are  generally  made  of  bamboo,  which  is  susceptible  to 
a  change  of  climate.  (Out  of  twenty  canes  bought  of 
Iwamoto  at  Osaka,  all  quite  expensive,  only  one  reaches 
Philadelphia  in  a  perfect  condition,  the  others  having 
split  from  top  to  bottom.) 

We  visit  the  hot  springs  here,  where  the  men  and 


MlYANOSHITA   ROAD,   NEAR  Yu.MOTO. 

women  are  seen  bathing  together,  perfectly  unconscious 
of  their  nudity. 

The   village    of   Sokokura    is    also    interesting   on 
account  of  its  magnificent  scenery,  and  because  there 
one  can  indulge  in  the  pleasure  and  refreshment  of 
the  hot  baths. 
23 


354          VACATION   DAYS   IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

We  leave  Miyanosliita  this  morning,  after  a  good 
American  breakfast.  At  this  hotel,  one  can  obtain 
beefsteak,  lamb  chops,  eggs,  coffee  with  cream  and 
sugar,  rolls,  butter,  and  all  the  delicacies  of  a  first- 
class  cafe  in  our  own  country. 

The  country  around  the  hamlet  of  Dogashima  is 
beautiful  beyond  description.  Picturesque  little  villas 
nestle  in  the  forest,  and  it  seems  that  one  could  pass 
his  life  happily  in  this  charming  spot.  Cascades,  large 
and  small,  wind  through  the  rocks  on  the  mountain 
side.  Along  the  Miyanosliita  road  the  scene  is  no  less 
fair.  Can  there  be  a  region  more  beautiful  than  this  ? 

Picturesque  Japan  offers  to  artist,  poet,  scholar,  mate- 
rial for  the  work  of  a  lifetime.  We  might  truly  call 
this  part  of  the  country  a  family  of  mountains,  for 
mountains  are  seen  at  every  turn,  and  so  majestic  and 
lofty  that  man  realizes  his  insignificance  in  the  presence 
of  these  masterpieces  of  creation.  Farther  on  is  Tono- 
sawa.  What  a  grand  panorama  is  before  us  !  We  pass 
many  of  the  natives,  among  them,  pretty  little  maidens, 
quaint  and  effective  bits  of  color  in  the  landscape. 

We  continue  on  the  Miyanosliita  road  as  far  as  the 
village  of  Yumoto,  still  in  the  midst  of  scenes  of  mag- 
nificent beauty.  The  distant  mountains,  clad  in  every 
shade  of  green,  blend  their  hues  with  the  foliage  in  the 
foreground,  producing  a  picture  of  soft  atmospheric 
effect,  that  would  inspire  the  soul  of  an  artist.  We 


LAST   DAYS   IN  JAPAN.  355 

pass  an  attractive  little  inn  at  Yumoto,  and  come  to 
Sammai-hashi,  which  has  nothing  to  distinguish  it 
from  the  other  villages  along  the  road.  Now  the  moun- 
tains are  less  high,  and  the  scenery  less  sublime.  We 
cross  several  bridges  and  finally  arrive  at  Yokohama, 
where  we  are  cordially  received  by  the  proprietor  of  the 
Grand  Hotel,  and  settle  down  to  a  time  of  rest,  varied 
by  shopping  and  preparations  for  our  voyage  home. 
Everything  earthly  must  have  an  end,  and  so  we  have 
come  to  the  last  days  of  our  visit  to  Japan. 

Saturday,  October  loth. — This  is  the  day  of  our  de- 
parture. With  packages  and  bundles,  large  and  small, 
we  look  our  farewell  from  window  and  porch,  and,  with 
our  faithful  guide,  take  our  last  jinrikisha  ride  to  the 
pier,  where  the  hotel  steam  launch  waits  to  carry  us  to 
the  steamer  "Coptic"  out  in  the  harbor.  The  day  is 
wet  and  disagreeable,  yet  many  friends  accompany  us 
on  the  launch,  and  wish  us  bon  voyage  on  the  steamer's 
deck.  Promptly  at  eleven  o'clock  the  gong  is  heard, 
and  the  bell  rung  for  visitors  to  leave  the  ship.  At 
11.30  we  weigh  anchor,  a  bell  sounds  on  the  bridge,  the 
indicator  bids  us  go  ahead,  and  we  take  a  last  regretful 
glance  at  the  mountains,  valleys,  and  temples  of  Japan, 
as  they  fade  forever  from  our  sight.  The  cabin  pas- 
sengers number  thirty,  all  pleasant,  congenial  people. 
The  high  winds  and  rain  of  the  past  few  days  have 
made  the  ocean  rough  and  unpleasant,  in  consequence 


356         VACATION   DAYS  IN   HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

of  which  many  of  the  passengers  are  compelled  to  re- 
tire to  the  privacy  of  their  staterooms.  The  rain  con- 
tinues through  the  night  and  the  sea  becomes  more 
turbulent,  causing  trunks  and  bundles  to  dance  about 
our  stateroom  in  a  very  lively  manner. 

At  daybreak  I  look  out  of  my  porthole  to  see  what  the 
prospect  is  for  clear  weather.  The  waves  are  pitching 
us  about  with  great  force,  but  the  sky  is  clear,  and  the 
indications  are  for  a  fair  day.  It  is  Sunday,  but  there 
is  no  service,  as  nearly  every  one  is  too  sick  to  attend. 
Our  life  on  shipboard  is  much  the  same  from  day  to  day. 
The  passengers  are  by  this  time  over  their  seasickness, 
and  games  and  other  social  amusements  fill  the  hours. 

To-night  we  will  cross  the  one  hundred  and  eightieth 
meridian,  and  will  then  pick  up  the  day  dropped  on  our 
journey  to  Japan.  We  will  retire  to-night,  it  being 
Friday,  and  wake  up  to-morrow  and  still  find  it  Friday, 
but  when  we  leave  it  this  time  it  will  be  a  day  less  in  life's 
calendar.  There  are  eight  hundred  steerage  passengers 
on  board,  mostly  Chinamen,  who  are  being  transported 
to  Honolulu  on  contract,  and  who  will  be  scattered 
among  the  various  islands  for  farming  and  other  work. 
We  now  have  the  most  delightful  weather.  The  sea  is 
smooth  and  the  temperature  pleasant. 

The  chief  steward  of  the  vessel  died  of  heart  disease 
on  Friday  night.  He  had  been  confined  to  his  bed  a 
long  time,  and  was  not  personally  known  to  the  pas- 


LAST    DAYS   IN  JAPAN.  357 

sengers.  The  officers  of  the  ship  endeavored  to  keep 
the  fact  of  his  death  a  secret,  but  the  cabin  passengers 
were  all  soon  aware  of  it.  Our  steamer  is  like  a  city, 
where  only  a  wall  may  separate  the  extremes  of  joy  and 
sorrow.  The  steward  was  buried  at  sea  on  Saturday, 
the  1 7th,  at  half-past  nine  in  the  evening.  How  solemn 
was  the  service,  and  how  brief!  As  his  body  sank  to 
its  last  resting  place  I  thought  of  the  eyes  that  had 
taken  their  last  look,  the  arms  which  had  taken  their 
last  embrace,  and  felt  a  great  sympathy  for  the  heart 
left  sorrowing  and  desolate. 

The  weather  is  still  delightful.  This  morning, 
Sunday,  October  i8th,  we  have  our  first  sight  of  land 
since  bidding  good-bye  to  Yokohama  on  the  loth  of 
the  month.  The  land  is  Birds'  Island.  The  captain 
at  my  side  assures  me  that  we  will  be  in  Honolulu 
to-morrow  morning  by  half-past  nine  or  ten  o'clock. 

Have  you  ever  heard  of  playing  cricket  on  board  of 
a  steamer?  Well,  after  leaving  Japan,  our  enthusiastic 
purser  made  up  two  full  teams,  and  we  have  had  a 
match  from  two  o'clock  till  four,  every  afternoon  except 
Sundays.  Our  games  are  full  of  excitement,  and  we 
enjoy  them  greatly. 

Last  night  we  had  a  candy  pull,  which  was  a  "  howl- 
ing success,"  and  made  much  merriment,  although 
more  candy  was  distributed  on  the  chairs  and  floor 
than  among  the  passengers. 


358  VACATION   DAYS    IN    HAWAII    AND  JAPAN. 

Honolulu,  October  i9th,  6  A.  M. — Before  the  steamer 
is  docked,  the  eight  hundred  coolies  from  Hong  Kong 
are  transferred  to  boats,  and  taken  to  quarantine  close 
by.  Having  had  breakfast  on  board,  we  procure  a  car- 
riage and  drive  through  the  most  beautiful  streets  of 
Honolulu,  and  along  the  picturesque  road  to  Waikiki. 
We  never  tire  of  these  charming  scenes.  Here  we 
meet  some  of  the  friends  we  made  during  our  visit 
here,  and  we  greet  each  other  with  the  glad  and  cordial 
welcome  of  old  friends. 

At  four  o'clock  this  same  day,  we  are  again  on  board 
the  steamer,  with  our  faces  set  toward  San  Francisco. 
What  a  scene  of  life  and  gayety  is  here  as  we  embark. 
The  Government  Hawaiian  Band,  numbering  thirty 
pieces,  is  on  the  pier  playing  patriotic  airs,  while  a 
party  of  about  twenty  Kanakas  sing  native  songs  in 
the  steamer's  saloon.  Our  friends,  as  before,  bring  great 
sweet-scented  "  leis,"  and  cover  our  necks  and  shoulders 
with  the  fragrant  offerings.  Amid  shouts  and  cheers, 
music  and  song,  and  the  minor  tones  of  half-sad,  half- 
smiling  farewells,  the  good  ship  lifts  anchor  and  bears 
us  away. 

The  voyage  to  San  Francisco  is  without  event.  The 
customary  diversions  fill  the  hours,  and  the  days  repeat 
themselves. 

On  Sunday,  October  25th,  at  i.io  P.  M.,  we  sight  the 
Farralone  Islands.  At  this  point  the  temperature  of 


LAST   DAYS   IN  JAPAN.  359 

the  water  is  50°,  while  the  atmosphere  is  60°  These 
islands  are  but  twenty-eight  miles  from  the  harbor  of 
San  Francisco.  Now  the  pilot's  yacht  comes  into  sight, 
and  as  the  passengers  crowd  forward  to  catch  a  glimpse 
of  this  important  personage,  the  men  entertain  them- 
selves by  betting  which  foot  he  will  place  first  on  the 
steamer.  There  is  much  laughter  when  he  leaps  on 
deck,  planting  both  his  feet  on  the  boards  at  once.  All 
bets  are  declared  off,  amid  roars  of  merriment. 

Now  the  doctor  and  Custom  House  officers  are  re- 
ceived on  board.  It  is  Sunday,  and  we  are  all  disap- 
pointed to  learn  that  we  can  take  only  our  hand  grips 
on  shore.  Trunks  and  larger  pieces  of  baggage  are  to 
await  the  inspection  of  the  officers  on  NMonday.  At  six 
o'clock  we  go  ashore,  and  after  mutual  farewells  we 
wend  our  way  once  more  to  the  Palace  Hotel. 

Monday,  October  26th. — This  morning  we  return  to 
the  steamer  and  have  our  baggage  passed,  and  so  ends 
the  long  voyage  from  Yokohama  to  San  Francisco,  a 
distance  of  five  thousand  and  fifty-eight  miles.  We 
spend  three  days  in  San  Francisco,  then  start  on  Fri- 
day, the  thirtieth  of  the  month,  by  the  Southern  and 
Union  Pacific  road  for  Chicago,  thence  over  the  Key- 
stone Limited  to  Philadelphia.  After  leaving  Sacra- 
mento we  pass  through  miles  and  miles  of  snow-sheds. 
Snow  fell  last  night,  and  the  ground  is  covered  with  its 
winter  coat.  The  peaks  and  sides  of  the  Sierra  Madre 


360          VACATION    DAYS   IN    HAWAII   AND  JAPAN. 

loom  up  white  and  glistening.  We  travel  comfortably 
in  the  drawing-room  of  our  Pullman  car. 

Saturday. — It  is  12.55  p-  M->  au(^  we  are  approaching 
Humboldt  Station.  The  wind  is  blowing  a  gale  and 
tearing  the  autumn  foliage  from  the  trees.  Looking 
across  the  plain  we  see  a  grand  snowstorm.  Dust  and 
sand  are  drifting  through  the  cars,  although  we  are 
protected  by  double  windows.  Byes  and  noses  are  sen- 
sitive to  this,  and  we  begin  to  sneeze. 

At  Winnemucca  Station  rain  and  snow  are  still  dom- 
inant, and  the  air  is  chilly  and  unpleasant.  We  arrive 
at  Ogden  on  schedule  time.  The  snow  is  four  or  five 
inches  deep,  and  it  is  still  snowing.  The  Rocky 
Mountains  gleam  out  white  and  ghostly  in  their  fleecy 
robes.  Since  leaving  Sacramento  our  ascent  has  been 
constant.  At  Summit  Station  we  reach  an  altitude  of 
seven  thousand  and  seventeen  feet,  then  gradually  de- 
scending we  come  to  Ogden,  where  the  elevation  is 
four  thousand  three  hundred  and  one  feet.  From 
Ogden  we  again  ascend  to  Sherman  Station,  the  highest 
point  on  this  route,  eight  thousand  two  hundred  and 
forty-seven  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  We  make 
a  gradual  descent  from  here  until  we  reach  Chicago, 
which  is  only  five  hundred  and  ninety  feet  above  sea 
level.  Thus  far  the  journey  across  the  country  has 
been  monotonous  and  the  scenery  uninteresting.  We 
are  now  passing  through  Echo  Canon.  The  long 


LAST   DAYS   IN  JAPAN.  361 

range  of  the  Rockies  does  not  attract  one,  and  the  only 
beauty  in  the  landscape  here  is  the  crystallization  of 
the  ice  and  snow  upon  the  trees  and  bushes.  The 
forms  are  as  varied  as  those  of  a  kaleidoscope,  and  one 
may  gaze  and  gaze  and  see  ever  new  shapes  of  glisten- 
ing light. 

Here  and  there  an  old  Conestoga  is  drawn  up  a  short 
distance  from  the  road,  its  occupants  evidently  enjoy- 
ing a  rest,  and  the  horses  unharnessed  and  hitched  to 
the  wagon,  while  through  the  roof  projects  a  stove- 
pipe, from  which  the  smoke  is  curling  gently  heaven- 
ward. What  a  sea  of  desolation,  and  apparently  far 
from  civilization ! 

We  reach  Chicago  Tuesday,  November  3d,  at  7.40 
A.  M.,  only  five  minutes  ahead  of  schedule  time,  having 
traveled  more  than  two  thousand  three  hundred  miles 
without  changing  cars.  We  leave  Chicago  at  eleven 
o'clock  and  arrive  in  Philadelphia  at  12.17  P.  M.  on 
Wednesday,  November  4th,  thus  happily  terminating 
a  delightful  journey  of  nearly  seventeen  thousand 
miles  without  accident. 


THE  BRITISH  ISLES  THROUGH 
&  **  ^  AN  OPERA  GLASS  *  ^  ^ 

By  CHAS.  M.  TAYLOR,  JR.,  author  of  "Vacation  Days  in  Hawaii  and 
Japan."  With  48  full-page  illustrations  principally  from  photo- 
graphs. Crown  8vo.  About  350  pages,  deckel  edge  paper,  cloth 
jacket  in  box.  Price,  $2.00. 

The  above  is  the  striking  title  of  a  book  by  Chas.  M.  Taylor,  Jr., 

the  noted  traveler  and  author  of  "  Vacation  Days  in  Hawaii  and  Japan." 

Mr.  Taylor  has  an  alert  mind,  an  observant  eye,  and  an  exhaustive 

and  of  anecdotal  and  historic  lore  at  command,  and  adding  to  these 

<ie  advantages   of  a   clever  literary  style  and  a   rare    knowledge  of 

aotographic  art,  he  is  able  to  clothe  his  writings  with  that  charm 

(rich  belongs  to  finished  literary  work. 


"Mr.  Taylor  has  the  knack  of  making  the  story  of  his  journeyings 
entertaining  to  the  public.  The  usual  descriptions  of  the  time-worn  scenes 
give  place  to  charming  personal  narrative,  and  a  wealth  of  incident  and 
episode  gives  to  the  book  an  exceptional  interest." — The  Philadelphia  Call. 

"The  book  is  all  the  eye  could  wish,  and  as  \\e  turn  the  pages  quickly 
from  one  to  another  of  the  forty-eight  beautiful  photographic  illustrations 
a  veritable  panorama  passes  before  us.  The  author  is  enthusiastic  over 
what  he  saw  in  the  British  Isles,  and  he  is  evidently  desirous  of  sharing  his 
pleasure  with  those  who  have  not  been  privileged  to  see  for  themselves." 
—  The  Philadelphia  American. 

"It  is  the  record  of  a  pleasant  tour  by  the  less  frequented  paths  of 
travel,  not  only  in  Kngland,  but  in  Scotland  and  Ireland.  The  author  takes 
little  from  the  guide  books  and  their  familiar  histories,  but  notes  many  inter- 
esting details  that  attracted  his  own  attention.  Furthermore,  he  has  illus- 
trated his  book  with  a  large  number  of  photographs,  both  of  places  and  of 
people,  that  are  quite  out  of  the  common  run,  and  the  pictures  alone  would 
suffice  to  give  the  volume  distinction." — The  Philadelphia  Times. 


For  sale  by  all  booksellers,  or  sent  postpaid  upon  receipt  of 
price  by  the  publishers 

GEORGE  W.  JACOBS  &  CO. 

J03-J05  South  Fifteenth  St.  Philadelphia 


VACATION  DAYS  IN  HAWAII 
^t  *£  <#  «g  AND  JAPAN  . «*  •*  ,•*  •* 

By  CHARLES  M.  TAYLOR,  JR.,  with  over  100  half-tone  illustrations,  princi- 
pally from  photographs.  Crown  Svo,  361  pages,  gilt  top,  uncut  edges. 
With  unique  cover  design.  Price,  $2.00. 


''  Mr.  Taylor  is  a  keen  observer,  who  penetrated  beyond  the  beaten  track  of 
the  usual  tourist,  and  his  sketches  of  home  life,  natural  beauties,  and  every-day 
scenes  have  individuality  and  charm." — Literary  JVeu's. 

"  The  narrative  is  written  in  a  clear,  easy  style,  with  an  aptitude  for  giving 
just  that  kind  of  information  concerning  every-day  life  which  people  miss  too 
often  in  books  of  travel." — Philadelphia  Press. 

"  A  very  interesting  feature  of  the  book  is  the  numerous  pictures  from  photo- 
graphs, taken  by  the  author,  of  "Japanese  people,"  men,  women,  and  children, 
engaged  at  their  ordinary  vocations  ;  also  pictures  of  Japanese  scenery,  shops, 
living-rooms,  and  temples.  These  illustrations  are  remarkable  for  their  realism." 
— Indianapolis  Journal. 

"The  book  recounts  the  incidents  of  a  recent  tour  through  Hawaii  and 
Japan.  The  special  value  of  the  narrative  is  that  it  covers  points  of  interest  in 
these  specially  interesting  countries  not  usually  recorded  in  the  guide  books  and 
in  the  ordinary  books  of  travel." — The  Philadelphia  Call. 

"A  four  months'  trip  through  Hawaii  and  Japan  is  narrated  in  this  compact 
and  entertaining  volume.  Mr.  Taylor  applies  systematic  methods  to  his  sight- 
seeing. He  is  an  appreciative  observer  as  well.  He  was  not  content  with  well- 
beaten  paths,  and  hence  his  record  is  clear,  picturesque,  and  fresh." — The  Phila- 
delphia Ledger. 

"It  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  additions  to  works  about  Japan." — The 
Bookseller. 

"  Two  conspicuous  merits  this  capital  travel  book  has  over  the  average  in  its 
class ;  it  describes  new  grounds  and  scenes,  and  the  narrative  ripples  along  with 
the  ease  and  liveliness  of  a  brook.  Without  professing  to  be  specially  instruct- 
ive, Mr.  Taylor  conveys  a  great  amount  of  information  such  as  we  all  enjoy 
when  told  in  this  pleasant  way,  blending  the  matter-of-fact  with  the  entertain- 
ing."—  The  Philadelphia  American. 

"  The  author  is  a  fascinating  writer,  and  many  of  the  scenes  live  before  you 
as  he  portrays  them.  The  work  is  a  handbook  which  any  traveler  may  profitably 
read  before  starting  on  a  similar  trip." — The  Commonwealth. 


For  sale  by  all  booksellers,  or  sent  postpaid  upon  receipt  of 
the  price  by  the  publishers 


GEORGE  W.  JACOBS  &  CO. 

J03-J05  South  Fifteenth  St.  Philadelphia 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 

This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


REC'D  LD-Jr.L       MAY  - 


Form  L9-Series  4939 


Umveroty  ot  CaJifonna,  Los  Angeles 


L  005  331  418  3 

UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


A  A      000009357    5 


